Food Court Malaysia

Healthy snack

2010-02-24T15:14:00.003+08:00

Photo by ZABIDI TUSIN / THE STAR

Ali Omar, 78, scooping out freshly boiled buah jering at his stall in Kampung Bukit Besar, Kuala Terengganu.

The peeled fruit, which looks like a giant version of petai and shares the same texture, is normally eaten as an ulam (fresh salad) in the west coast of Malaysia. Over in the east coast, however, it is consumed as a cooked snack and Ali’s stall is a popular one in the Bukit Besar neighbourhood.

Popularly known as Pak Ali Jering, he has been selling the kuih for about 10 years now. As the fruit is naturally bitter and smelly, it requires the know-how to make it palatable and Pak Ali is not about to divulge his recipe. However, he reveals that he boils the fruit for 14 hours and serves it with fresh grated coconut. He sells the snack for RM2.50 a cup.

The locals believe that buah jering helps in treating high blood pressure and diabetes.

Fish Head Noodles Second To None

2009-04-02T14:00:00.005+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

JUST when I thought I had seen them all, my colleague James Lam, an avid foodie, invited me to have lunch with him.

“Eh Sam ah, you free or not? We go to Jalan Kuchai Lama for makan?” he said. I needed no coaxing, it is always an honour to makan with Lam because he goes to great lengths for a decent meal.

Lam and I had earlier met over breakfast and our topic of conversation was ... what else, but food, glorious food!

After making the necessary arrangements, the man said he knew of a secret spot that served yee thau mai (fish head noodles). I had been alerted to many such makan places but, according to Lam, this was one of the “unspoilt” places that I must visit.

Yummy: The Udang Galah beehoon is a notch better than the fish head noodles.

“It’s not commercialised yet and very few food critics know of it. So, we must check it out before its prices go up — especially after a review is posted in the newspaper.”

So, we met up for lunch on a Friday. The place is about a 15-minute drive from Section 16 in Petaling Jaya. Lam manouvred his vehicle through a series of housing estates before we ended up at Jalan Lazat, which is located near Happy Garden in Old Klang Road.

To the uninitiated, this is one place at the fringe of the city centre where there are plenty of good makan places. I can go on and on about the food here, but this week’s pick is a yee thau mai stall at the Choy Kei coffee shop in Jalan Lazat.

If you are not familiar with the housing estates in Old Klang Road, finding this coffee shop can be a real adventure. The landmark here is a row of hawker stalls; Choy Kei is the last corner coffee shop if you are coming from the direction of Happy Garden.

This housing estate brought back plenty of memories of the time when I was a secondary school kid. This was the neighbourhood my friends and I visited when they first acquired their driving licences.

High school romance was blooming and if you were a schoolboy with wheels, your social circle expanded tremendously. And, during the Chinese New Year, there was no shortage of red packets when we went visiting around the area.

My first encounter with the good food here was some 18 years ago. I was introduced to a steamed fish head stall in Jalan Lazat and well, that was the first and last time I visited the place. So, Lam’s invitation held sort of a “Happy Garden revisited” nostalgia for me.

At Choy Kei, he wasted no time in ordering the yee thau mai.

Creamy and tasty: A small portion of Choy Kei’s fish head noodles.

Now, prices here are at a premium. For RM6.80, you get a bowl of fish head noodles with extras like the yee wat (fish paste) thrown in.

To my surprise, the noodle dishes can cost up to RM13.50. I asked the food handler what the extras were and he said: “Ah, for the highest price, you get halved udang galah and yee wat along with the fish head.”

I found his description satisfactory and when the noodles arrived, I found it to be one of the best fish head noodles I had tasted so far.

The gravy was creamy as expected, and the portion of noodles and fish head were generous, so there was hardly anything that I could complain about.

Lam also ordered the sang har mai (prawn beehoon), which was a notch better than the fish head beehoon.

I had fresh sauteed udang galah halves and the the prawn’s aromatic flavour blended with the evaporated milk gravy to give it oomph! At RM11.50 a helping, this is the second most expensive noodle dish in the house.

Now, the “secret” ingredient that made my yee thau mai experience at Choy Kei complete was the chee yau char (pork cracklings).

No other fish head beehoon stall can come close to what this coffee shop offers and so far, it is the top contender for the best yee thau mai in the Klang Valley.

I was also told by Lam that there is a dancing cook in this coffee shop. Ah, well, that will be my excuse for a follow-up visit to Choy Kei.

If you plan to head to Jalan Lazat, be sure to get there early as the coffee shop is usually packed during lunch hour.

The GPS coordinates for Choy Kei coffee shop are 3 4’ 35” N, 101 40’ 43” E. This time round, I will be a bit generous by including the map from my Nokia maps screenshot that cost me a bomb for your reference.

And lastly, the fish head beehoon is a lunchtime treat, so be advised on the timing, and to all you foodies out there — happy hunting!

Eating out

2009-04-01T12:12:00.006+08:00

Popular Peking Duck

CHEF Wang Qiaoyu of Hilton Shanghai is back at Toh Yuen Chinese Restaurant in Hilton Petaling Jaya to cook his Peking Duck speciality. The promotion runs until April 15. Priced at RM108++ per bird, the Peking Duck is served in different styles. The skin is sliced thinly and wrapped with a specially-made pancake. The meat is then prepared into Stir Fried Diced Duck with Lettuce, Sauteed Shredded Duck Meat with Bean Sprouts, Stir Fried Duck with Bell Pepper in Black Bean Sauce and Wok Fried Noodles with Shredded Duck. The promotion also offers a seven-course set menu priced at RM106++ per person, featuring Peking Duck, Braised Shark’s Fin Soup with Eight Treasures and Fish Lips, Wok Fried Fresh Scallop and Prawns with XO Sauce, Steamed Red Garoupa with Light Soya Sauce, among others. For reservations, call 03-7955 9122 ext 4073/4.

F1-inspired dishes

WITH the Malaysian F1 Grand Prix season zooming into town, Spice of India at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur is giving F1 fans another reason to celebrate, with an exclusive premium menu. Only from April 1 to 5, diners can enjoy an exclusive three-course meal featuring authentic Indian specialities for a one-time offer of RM89++ per person (minimum two pax) in conjunction with Pavilion Pit Stop. The meal flags off with Subzi Samosa and the delightfully light Mulligatawny Soup and continues with a medley of flavours like Chicken Tandoori, Rogan Josh and Bendi Masala, matched with either a serving of chawal or naan bread fresh from the tandoor. The meal ends on a sweet note with Mango Kulfi. For reservations, call 03-2143 3669.

Exhilarating F1 drinks

CATCH the action at Monkey Bar with a range of exciting concoctions specially created for all F1 fans. There is Sepang Corner that is concocted from vodka, vanilla syrup, fresh milk and peanut butter, which is hearty and flavourful with a punch to it. For coffee lovers, the Grandstand mix comes highly recommended. This aromatic brew has shots of freshly-brewed espresso, cinnamon, kahlua, gin and a citrus touch, thanks to addition of orange peel. For teetotallers, there is Sauber, which is made up of a combination of raspberry, blueberry and peach puree topped up with sweet soda and sprigs of mint leaves. For a refreshing change, Chequered Flag is the drink for you as the appetising mocktail contains pineapple, mango and calamansi juice, topped with juicy cherries for that extra bite. These April specials are priced at RM18++ for mocktails and RM25++ for cocktails. The outlet also serves mouth-watering snacks and bites and is well known for its pizzas and chicken wings. For reservations, call 03-4042 9888 ext 1027.

CAVA, 71 Jalan Bangkung, Bukit Bandaraya, KL (Tel: 03-2093 6637). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat, lunch (noon-3pm); dinner (6pm till late); Sun & Public Hols (6pm till late). Pork-free. Serves Catalonian-style cuisine, noted for its seafood and rice dishes. Expect good wines and an extensive tapas selection.

SAFFRON MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO, Unit 18 - G, Jalan Solaris 4, Solaris Mont’ Kiara, KL (Tel: 03-6203 0145). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). Serves Mediterranean cuisine with most of its dishes cooked with olive oil. Among the famous Mediterranean dishes are tapas, grilled and barbecued items and pasta. The flavours of Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Italy, Spain and other Mediterranean nations are available under one roof. Delicious breads are made in house, and served with a special dip.

BAR B.Q. PLAZA, Lot 338a, 1st Floor, Rainforest, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ (Tel: 03-7727 8148). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). Non-halal. A type of sauce sampled at a restaurant in Thailand led Bar B.Q Plaza’s owner to set up shop here. The sauce makes all the difference. Set lunch at RM9.90 on weekdays.

SPICE OF INDIA, Level 4, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL (Tel: 03-2164 9221). Business Hrs: Daily (11.30am-10.30pm). Pork-free. Specialises in Northern and Southern Indian cuisine. Recommended dishes include Pomfret Tandoori, Leg of Lamb, Fish Head Curry, Lobster Tandoori and King Prawn Tandoori.

TAISHI TEPPANYAKI, Subang Business Centre, 34 Jalan USJ 9/5P (Tel: 03-8025 9603). Business Hrs: Tues-Sun, lunch (11.30am-3pm), dinner (6pm-10pm). Pork-free. Numerous teppanyaki sets, ranging in price from RM10.80 to RM24.80, complemented with homemade sauces. Four types of course meals at RM34.80 each.

CANTON FARE, 71G Jalan Medan Setia 1, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2093 5279, 03-6203 0223 - Solaris Mont’ Kiara). Business hours: Daily (11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10.30pm). Non-halal. Cantonese cuisine served hot from the wok is available in a variety of cooking styles. Famous for its glistening barbecued pork, roasted pork, whole roasted goose, signature pork ribs and dishes cooked with crab meat with egg white.

CICCIO RISTORANTE BAR PIZZERIA, 15 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2141 8605). Business Hrs: Daily (5pm-12.30am). Kitchen closes at 10.30pm but pizza is available till midnight. Pork-free. A casual, intimate and inviting place with wood-fired gourmet pizzas, homemade pasta and steaks.

SURE PIZZA, P37, Plaza Damas Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre, Jalan Hartamas 1, KL (Tel: 03-6201 6014). Business Hrs: Daily (10am-10pm). Pork-free. Cosy Italian restaurant serving authentic Italian food and thin-crust pizzas. Deliveries confined to Plaza Damas.

DEPARTURE LOUNGE, B/G/20, Jalan PJU 1/43, Aman Suria, PJ (Tel: 03-7803 3418). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat (8am-7pm); Sun & Public Hols (10am-5pm). Pork-free. Offers hearty breakfast sets with three, five and seven items. Also has a small selection of salads, pasta and sandwiches. Serves various kinds of coffee using Illy beans from Italy.

FISHERMAN’S COVE, LG10, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2782 3848). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Halal. The restaurant is designed as a boathouse and is tastefully decorated with sails and lamps to re-create a fishing village. The focus is on seafood, prepared in an open kitchen.

EAT WORK SHOP, 9 Jalan Peguam U1/25, Glenmarie Business Park, Shah Alam (Tel: 03-5569 7763). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat (11am-11pm). Pork-free. Boasts a swanky and trendy minimalist décor. Australian-influenced cuisine with a touch of Asian flavours.

CHILI’S GRILL & BAR, Lot 346B, Level 3, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL (Tel: 03-2164 1400). Business Hrs: Sun-Thurs (11am-11pm); Fri, Sat & Public Hols (11am-midnight). Halal. Serves American and Mexican food with specialities homemade hi-fi bread and Multon Chocolate Brownie. Offers a great view of KLCC’s fountain.

Korean Flavours To Whet The Palate

2009-04-01T12:02:00.001+08:00

By ESTHER CHANDRAN

SOME of us may have read fables on acorns and oak trees and know that the mighty oak grows from little acorns but there is definitely not an acorn in sight, here in the tropics.

So, when Mary Shin Mi Suk explained that the brownish jelly like dish among the Korean side dishes before us was made of acorn powder, our ears pricked up.

Wide variety: The assorted barbecue fare at Restaurant Kung Jung.

Since acorns are not available locally, Shin’s mother Kim Jong Oh and her sister Hyun Suk return to South Korea twice a year to get essential Korean ingredients like acorn and sesameleaves, cutlery and spices for their outlet.

“We buy organic Korean acorns that can cost up to RM200 per kg and it is very expensive, just like the sesame leaves,” said Shin.

Once we learnt of its price, we quickly cleaned up the plate so as not to be wasteful.

The not too bad tasting acorn jelly dish (Dotorimuk) topped with seaweed is relished with soya sauce.

Besides the acorn jelly, we had several other side dishes like potato salad, marinated cockles, stir fried anchovies, fresh kimchi, regular kimchi, seasoned tofu, stir fried fish, garlic sticks and seaweed for bites as we watched waiters prepare our barbecue stove with special non-smoke emanating Korean coal.

Kim served us two types of kimchi - fresh kimchi and the preserved one so we could distinguish between the two.

Hot bowl: The Dol Sot Bi Bim Bam is a rice dish with spinach, white cabbage, chilli powder and raw egg which is quickly mixed at the table so the egg cooks in the hot rice.

The vegetable texture of the former was firmer, its spices raw and vibrant as we alternated between the two tastes, growing fond of the fresh version with each renewed experience.

Kimchi, Mary said was made of vegetables (usually cabbage), chilli powder, salt and garlic.

“Back in South Korea at the onset of winter, we make a lot of kimchi and we bury the kimchi container into a big hole in the ground and the snow helps keep the vegetable cold while it ferments.

“Koreans say that kimchi prepared during this period is the best,” Shin said as she served us Korean Raspberry Wine, Gold Korean Plum Gold Wine and Soju.

Here’s some good news - the variety of side dishes change daily and are complimentary.

There was plenty of garlic on our table and I enjoy the pungent herb.

Shin said Koreans love garlic and that 80% of their dishes had garlic in them.

We were having the Modum Koo Ee (assorted grilled barbeque) that consisted of fresh spare ribs, fresh sirloin, marinated spare ribs, marinated rib eye, char broiled marinated cuttlefish, prawns and scallops.

While waiting for the stove to heat up, the kitchen served the familiar Korean-style Pancake (Pah Jeon) that was aromatic with scallion and seafood.

With hard to grip stainless steel chopsticks, the omelette pancake was delicious with or without its accompanying sauce.

As the restaurant caters to locals, don’t be surprised to see a sauce laden with chilli padi served alongside.

The Chab Chae is lightly stir fried potato noodles with assorted vegetables in light sweet soy sauce that resembles the local stir fried glass noodle dish.

The aroma of the barbecued items, grilled before us, wafted in the air.

The grilled fare, be it the marinated or unseasoned meats, were as good as they smelt.

At the end of our barbecue experience, Shin brought in bowls with more Korean food.

The cold buckwheat noodles (Mool Naeng Meon) is a serving of fine noodles with mustard and vinegar.

Although the noodles were nice, it wasn’t exactly my cup of tea to have cold noodles shock my palate after the hot sizzling barbecue experience.

The other bowl (Dol Sot Bi Bim Bam) contained rice with spinach, white cabbage, chilli powder and raw egg which is quickly mixed at the table so the egg cooks in the hot rice.

The outlet, in its ninth year is a testament of Kim’s success after having lost her husband just three months after arriving in Malaysia 18 years ago.

“My father left Korea to join his Korean business partner here in Malaysia but sadly he died in an accident soon after we arrived here.

“My mother was a housewife then and with the little that she had, she opened a food stall called Ari Lang in Lot 10 selling Korean food.

“After two years, she sold the business and worked at the Halla Korean factory as its caterer before opening this restaurant in 2000,” Shin said.

Kim smiled and nodded her head throughout our conversation as she does not speak English.

Her eldest daughter Hyun Suk has been her right hand throughout the years, dealing with the administrative part of the business.

Besides Kim, the outlet also has executive chef Kim Guy Hyun to dish out the traditional Korean fare.

“Our restaurant is open 365 days a year and my mother is at the restaurant from as early as 9am to closing time so her customers are assured that she lends her personal touch to their food,” said Shin with a pleasant smile.

The outlet also serves Japanese cuisine for those who want a mix of Korean and Japanese.

RESTORAN KUNG JUNG (halal), Lot No 3.1, At PNB Darby Park, Jalan Binjai, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2166 7181) Business hours: noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Monday to Saturday, 6pm to 10.30pm on Sunday.

Always A Delight

2009-03-31T16:00:00.004+08:00

By FARIDAH BEGUM

Soaked brown squid with water convolvulus in a sweet spicy sauce is a great appetiser.

Soaked brown squid is a delicacy that often innocently makes it way on to the dining table and steals the thunder from other dishes.

Often cooked in a spicy sambal and devoured with Nasi Lemak or plain rice, it is also a wonderful appetiser in the form of the Malaysian favourite, Sotong Kangkung. No food court or hawker joint is complete without this on the menu.

What must be right is the sauce, which is not unlike the sweet bean sauce that comes with your chee cheong fun and this version has either ground peanuts or lots of roasted sesame seeds.

The squid must also be done well. Sometimes, the squid can be a pure let-down, especially if it becomes soft and without bite.

Crunchy and thick, you are on your way to more than just a good plate of appetiser with the dish.

Apparently from reading about Malaysian food, we found that sotong kangkung is very popular in Sabah and Sarawak and they have a good number of stalls that sell this fare, although some have commented that it is a tad too sweet as compared to the ones in the Peninsular. Whatever, it is the tastebuds of individuals and different people will taste different degrees of sweetness and saltiness in the same plate of food.

While many have responded to our sms call last week, here are just a few good places to look for your sotong kangkung.

Sotong kangkung rebus: A delicious snack food.

At the Grace Point and Bukit Padang in Kota Kinabalu, the sotong kangkung comes highly recommended as the portions are generous and the sotong done just right to provide bulk and crunch. The kangkung or water convolvulus is also very fresh and blanched just enough to maintain a good crunch for vegetable lovers.

In Kuching Sarawak, the Kuching Open Air market also has a stall selling sotong kangkung and is said to be quite good too. The Hui Sin food court here also has a sotong kangkung stall that serves an authentic version of this simple fare and is said to come with a generous sprinkling of roughly ground peanuts.

In the Peninsular, sotong kangkung is a very popular evening and dinner dish among friends, hence it being more commonly sold at night than during the day.

In the north, specifically in Gurun, Kedah, Kedai Kopi New Light, which is opposite the Gurun Magistrate’s Court at 294, Main Street, the sotong kangkung is a must as it is said not only the sauce is good, it is the kangkung that makes all the difference!

At Madras Lane, well-known previously for the exotic meats that were sold here, there is a stall that serves a good sotong kangkung and assam laksa here.

The portions are big and is good to share, besides the gravy here, one of the most important components to hold the dish together, is very tasty, so say those who have gotten a taste of it as it is a non-halal stall.

The eat street on Jalan Sayur in Pudu, which was featured in last week’s Sunday Metro, also has a stall selling sotong kangkung and again, we are told that the dish has been constant in taste as the years evolved.

For those in Petaling Jaya, drop by Tony’s char kway teow at Store 1073, Uptown Hawker Stall in the Uptown Centre of Damansara Jaya, Petaling jaya, and here, you will find the sotong kangkung, although many say it tastes better when had with the char kway teow than on its own.

The Pantai Remis Kopitiam with origins from Perak at the IOI Mall in Puchong also has sotong kangkung on its menu and is said to be as good as those sold in the open air stalls.

Further south at the Neighbourhood Coffeeshop in Taman Equine, Seri Kembangan, one of the many stalls here sell sotong kangkung all day long and is said to be popular with the residents around.

Crossing the Selangor border and moving down south, a stop at the back alley on Jalan Bunga Raya will bring you to a stall that serves an authentic sotong kangkung, Malacca style.

Spicy and sweet with loads of brown squid, it is delicious and you may not want to share. Again, the sauce makes it good.

In Johor, at the Tepian Tebrau, most Johoreans get their sotong kangkung fix here, again with the sauce being the source of this enjoyment.

Sharing And Caring

2009-03-31T15:46:00.005+08:00

Makan Makan
By FARIDAH BEGUM

It takes every individual to realise that they have to do their bit to keep society together.

LIVING in the city often makes us behave individualistic and the inborn traits of wanting to assist or gather friends and family together become a distant memory in our lives.

Looking back a decade or two ago, the society we live in today is far different from the one we had then.

Even the lessons learned in school are different already!

What happened to the lessons in giving a helping hand, a friend in need is a friend indeed and so many more phrases that we often had drilled into our heads in school.

Gone are the days, I think, when all of us would rally around friends, good times or bad times, get together and visit one’s home instead of making plans to meet at shopping malls such as these days.

We were often invited to meals at either homes, no matter how meagre the offerings.

It is rather sad that we do no more than argue over matters that don’t even cause a dent in our lives, or even allow political differences dictate who our friends are and who aren’t.

The thought, for some, may be a little mushy but hey, when all is said and done, who do you call for hope, encouragement and support when you know your life is somewhat hanging in the balance.

Friends and family are important components in our lives and we should never forget to give thanks for their presence. No matter how bad or how difficult life is, they will help you get back on your feet and give you the hand to help guide you out of your misery.

Right now, as we speak, there are many around us who could benefit from a simple smile and a good conversation from any of us. There are many friends who have lost their jobs and perhaps, in some cases, on the verge of losing the only source of income they have.

It would be good in our own way for the lucky ones to strike out and assist in any way possible. If you are cooking, why not share a dish or two of your meal with the neighbour who is going through some hard times.

Their thanks is reward enough and such good thoughts when collected make our lives happier and more fulfilling. Try it. This is not idle talk as I often do this and feel good about the positive vibes that I collect.

On a chirpier note, I would like to highlight an e-mail I received last week from G.S. Chng.

He said: “Hi, just to let you know I compile all your recipes and cook them for my wife. I find them easy for our hectic lifestyles where coming home in the evening means not cracking our heads on what to cook but we can just browse through the clippings. Great stuff! We are Malaysians after all and the foods just taste so Malaysian.”

Thank you, Chng, for your vote of confidence and for trying those recipes out.

Yes, life has become a little more hectic and despite the fact that we spend very little time at home, we still would like home-cooked meals on the table but in as little time as possible.

This week, I respond to Chng and many others who would like quick, cheap and nutritious meals.

Bon appetit to all, a great fortnight ahead and don’t forget to send over some food to your neighbour next door. Keep friendships going for a more peaceful and happier existence.

Faridah Begum believes life is about sharing and food is a great catalyst in this direction.

Sardine in a Real Hurry
Ingredients

1 can of sardines (425g)

3 tbsps tomato ketchup

2 large onions – cut into rings)

6 bird’s eye chillies

1 tablespoon cooking oil

Method

In a wok, heat the cooking oil, add the sardines and the tomato ketchup.

Let it cook on a medium flame.

Stir occasionally to prevent the sardine and gravy from burning and sticking to the wok.

When the sardines are cooked for about five to six minutes, put in the onions and chillies and let the dish to continue simmering until the onions are soft. Serve.

Simple Spinach
Ingredients

300g spinach – cut into 3cm lengths and washed

3 shallots – finely sliced

3 red chillies – broken into small pieces

1/2 tbsp cooking oil

Salt to taste

2 tbsps coconut cream – made up with water to make 1 cup of liquid

Method

In a wok, heat the cooking oil and saute the dried chillies and onions. When soft and fragrant, add the spinach and cover to let the vegetable soften. After a minute or two, add salt to taste and coconut milk. Cover and simmer for about five minutes. Dish out and serve.

Udang Masak Lemak
Ingredients

1kg tiger prawns – cleaned and deveined (preferably with the shell on)

Blend together:

6 shallots

2 clove garlic

1cm galangal

3 stalks lemongrass

8 bird’s eye chillies

2cm fresh turmeric

1 turmeric leave

3 pieces of dried tamarind rind (asam keping)

Salt to taste

3 cups thick coconut milk

1 cup water

Method

In a pot, place the blended ingredients, turmeric leave, coconut milk and water, with salt and dried tamarind pieces.

Cook over a low flame until the mixture comes to a rolling boil. Stir for a few minutes.

When the mixture thickens a little, add the prawns. Switch off the flame once the prawns are cooked. Serve.

Old School Meals

2009-03-31T15:36:00.003+08:00

Compiled by RENITA CHE WAN

THIS may not be the discovery of the year, but it may as well be the rediscovery of the year.

One rainy Saturday night, en route to Jalan Alor’s Wong Ah Wah in Kuala Lumpur for dinner with the gang, blogger qwazymonkey suddenly thought of Woo Lan Restaurant.

Tasty variety: The different dishes you can find at Woo Lan Restaurant.

To his surprise, none of his friends have ever been to (or heard of it for that matter) this legendary restaurant. So, they made a detour and headed for Brickfields.

Woo Lan, which is housed in a nice air-conditioned and brightly lit establishment, is tucked nicely in a quiet corner of Brickfields.

It wasn’t until a couple years back when qwazymonkey started getting his regular blind-massage therapies that he found this place again by chance.

“After a session, I was hungry and stepped into this place. I looked around and saw some rather familiar dishes. I happily ordered and ate. I’ve only returned once again for dinner out of laziness to go any where else after a massage,” he wrote.

Now his decision to dine at Woo Lan Restaurant was no mistake. He ordered everything that was recommended by the “Si Tau Poh”, and no matter how many dishes he ordered, the Fried Mee Suah is still a must.

“This has got to be one of my all-time favourite noodle dishes. I do miss it every now and then, but never really took the effort to get my butt here ever since I stopped my massage sessions.

“It’s a simple dish and subtle in presentation. But do not be fooled by its unappetising appearance. This signature dish is quite the con-artist. The flavourful combination of gluten starch, Chinese cabbage, pork, prawn, crunchy seaweed, fried egg that were held together by ‘some’ lard is just droolsome,” he added.

All in all the dinner was satisfying. He couldn’t agree more with his friend when she said that the place serves rather traditional village-tasting food and it’s not very often that he gets such cooking in this big city of ours.

Based on the taste of the food alone, they wouldn’t mind driving out of the way every now and then to savour some “good ol-skool” (old-school) dishes.

“Despite whatever I’ve said, do try the food there when you can. Just do not expect to pay the price of your neighbourhood Tai Chow.”

Woo Lan Restaurant is located at No.19, Jalan Scott, Brickfields, 50470 Kuala Lumpur.

Fish On Your Plate

2009-03-31T15:22:00.005+08:00

By FARIDAH BEGUM

You may not like fish but it’s a different story when you choose fish and chips.

I HATE fish.” Such is the common exclamation by most children whenever parents try to feed them this good nutritional piece of meat that contains some of the nutrients we need.

However, these battles come to a complete end when you serve fish and chips.

Yummy: Fish and Chips is a popular take-away food which originated in Britain.

In fact, when you take the children out to a restaurant that serves Western food, almost on a score of two to one, they would settle for fish and chips.

No, it is never the chips that is the drawing factor but rather the tart and sinfully looking tartare sauce that draws most appetites to fish and chips.

Its creamy and sourish taste tends to send most people eating up their meal and before they realise how they had spent the last five minutes totally in tune with their fish and chips and not with the conversation swirling around them, the fish is gone and so are the chips!

According to Wikipedia: “Fish and chips (sometimes written ‘fish ‘n’ chips’) is a popular take-away food which originated in the United Kingdom. It consists of deep-fried fish (traditionally cod, haddock or flounder) in batter or breadcrumbs with deep-fried chipped (slab-cut) potatoes.

“Popular tradition associates the dish with the United Kingdom; and fish and chips remains very popular in the United Kingdom and in areas colonised by people from the UK in the 19th century, such as Australia, New Zealand, and parts of North America (New England, the Pacific Northwest and Canada generally). Fish and chips also have considerable popularity in the Republic of Ireland, and South Africa. Establishments in Denmark and in some coastal towns in Norway serve fried fillets. In the Netherlands, the popular deep-fried, battered fillet dish called lekkerbek sometimes appears served with chips.

“The British usually serve thicker slabs of potato than the ‘french fries’ popularised by major multinational US hamburger-chains. In their homes or in non-chain restaurants, people in or from the USA may eat a thicker type of chip, called ‘home fries’ or ‘steak fries’.”

Fish and Chips is usually on the menu of most coffee houses and restaurants, especially those who serve both local and western cuisine.

If you are looking for some good old fish and chips, try Coliseum Cafe in Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Kuala Lumpur, which serves authentic English fare.

One of the latest in the capital city is the dish’s namesake – The Magnificent Fish and Chips Bar at 28 Changkat Bukit Bintang, 50200 Kuala Lumpur. True to its name, the place certainly lives up to its British attitude and it is definitely as noisy and brash as any English pub would get. Though a tad pricey, the fish and chips here is authentic with choices of barramundi, cod, dory and salmon for the meal.

The Fish & Co at Bangsar Village also serves a nice and crunchy fish and chips.

The Manhattan Fish Market, which has several outlets at Mid Valley Megamall, Alamanda Putrajaya, Subang Parade, Suria KLCC, Ikano Power Centre, Sogo Kuala Lumpur, Penang and even in Johor Baru, serves fresh and good seafood but the fish and chips is especially good here.

Outside of the Klang Valley, the Bayleaf Restaurant and Shahzan Inn in Kuantan both serve commendable Fish and Chips. At Bayleaf, the fish comes enclosed in a crunchy batter while the chips is your common shoe-string fries.

However, at Shahzan Inn, the fish and chips comes with two large fillets, enveloped in a thin and tasty batter while the chips are thick and soft inside. For indulgence, request for extra tartare sauce to eat with your chips.

If you are on a shoe-string budget and want to serve good fish and chips at home, shop at the frozen department of the supermarket for a choice of fish in batter by Gorton’s, an imported brand or go Malaysian with our Malaysian brand Pacific West, which has many varieties of fish in batter. A good try would be the Alaskan Pollock, which comes in a true British batter and tastes exactly how fish and chips ought to.

Whatever you choose, don’t forget to balance off your meal with some greens and lots of water to wash away the grease.

Splendid Spread

2009-03-31T15:11:00.008+08:00

Street Food

PENANG
NEW LANE
Open 1pm-late. Traders’ day off varies but most close on Wednesdays

NEW Lane is one of the best places in town to get a feel of Penang’s grastronomic offerings. With about 40-odd stalls operating on both sides of the lane, the choices are seemingly endless – from noodles to satay, freshly made apom balik to piping hot kuih dadar. Take a walk around the stalls before making that difficult choice of what to eat.

Many come here for the intestine porridge or chee cheong chook. Pork intestines are marinated in sugar and sauces and then smoked before being deep fried. The crunchy, peppery intestines are served on mushy, smooth porridge with offal added. The only stall that offers this opens at 1pm, and the porridge usually runs out by 7pm.

Also good is the pork satay from the Satay & Ayam Panggang stall (opposite Maxim Cafe). The pork satay is succulent while the peanut sauce (tangy thanks to the addition of tamarind juice) will perk up your appetite for more!

Some stalls on New Lane open early in the afternoon, while most only start their business after 5pm.

KAMPUNG BARU, KUALA LUMPUR
Nasi Lemak Raja Abdullah
15, Jalan Raja Abdullah, Kg Baru
Open 7am-10pm. Closed during Raya

THE first thing you’ll sniff out at this 21-year-old stall is the aromatic rice, steamed in a wooden bucket with coconut milk and pandan leaves. Join the morning queue to pick what you fancy – chicken rendang, sambal sotong, etc.

The sambal ikan bilis here tends to be sweet rather than spicy. The deep-fried paru (beef lungs) are especially good, served with a mix of shredded deep-fried lemongrass, ginger and galangal. You’ll need to get here early if you’re after this dish, as it tends to run out quickly.

For lunch, a variety of dishes are served, including asam pedas and masak lemak cili api, as the owners hail from Malacca. In the evenings, nasi lemak is served from 5pm.

KOTA BARU
Yati Ayam Percik
847, Jalan Long Yunus (Jalan Pekeliling). Tel: 09-747 9867
Open Saturdays to Thursdays noon-11.30pm / Fridays 3-11.30pm

SURE, the ayam percik here is fantastic – but the nasi kerabu is simply to die for! Most folks swear by it. The fluffy rice comes with heaps of vegetables such as bean sprouts, finely cut cabbage and polygonum leaves, as well as budu (fermented anchovy sauce), kerisik, sambal and fish crackers. Mix it all together for a wonderful burst of flavours in your mouth.

There are three colours of rice available – white, yellow and blue. The daging bakar or roast beef is tender and aromatic. Kerutup ayam – a type of rendang synonymous with the East Coast – is another good choice; the chocolate-coloured kerutup is full of spices with a tinge of sweetness but isn’t spicy.

Pesto-Infused Dishes

2009-03-31T14:39:00.006+08:00

By ESTHER CHANDRAN

ISN’T it amazing how the combination of the simplest of ingredients like pine nuts, basil, extra virgin olive oil, garlic and cheese makes a rather versatile sauce?

Ardent cooks would have recognised these as essential ingredients in making pesto — the likeable green sauce covered in olive oil that is excellent on toasted bruschetta, pizza or tossed in a dish of pasta.

Crunchy toast: Homemade bread with Feta Cheese and Black Olives is an ideal starter while waiting for your main course to arrive.

This flavoursome paste is also incredible when just a dollop is spread over barbecued meats and fish or grilled prawns and steak.

Or take it a step further and add a spoonful to mashed potatoes or baked ones and it is also a good accompaniment to scrambled eggs and omelette.

Whether you call it a paste or sauce, it originates in Genoa, Italy, deriving its name from the Latin root word pestle which means to crush or grind.

Of course, to make grass green pesto, fresh basil is a must.

And if you’re still scratching your head trying to figure out what it tastes like, perhaps the folk at Porto Romano might win you over with some of their new and likeable pesto favourites.

Canadian treat: Canadian oysters are served on a bed of ice with lemon wedges and the Porto Romano chilli sauce offering a spicy tangy taste to the freshly shucked oysters.

Owner Eddie Wong confesses his deep liking for pesto-infused dishes.

“For the longest time, I have wanted to include pesto dishes on the menu but all the ingredients required to make it are imported. Hence, costing was always a concern.

“But we decided to introduce pesto dishes because we knew our customers would take to them,” he said when dining at the dimly lit upper floor of the Mont Kiara outlet recently.

He said both the pesto dishes - Spaghetti with Pesto Sauce and Chicken Strips and Pizza with Pesto and Chicken had become fast favourites with those who had tried them.

Parmesan cheese, he said was the preferred cheese in the outlet’s pesto sauce.

Hearty oxtail: This Oxtail Soup is a new addition on the soup section at Porto Romano. It is robust in flavour as the tomato-based soup is aromatic and flavourful.

The spaghetti strands came coated with pesto in extra virgin olive oil and chicken strips proved to be the perfect choice as the additional flavour.

We were indeed merry when we bit into the thin crust pizza, sharing notes on the delightful effect of pesto against the famous Italian flat bread.

Another addition to Porto Romano’s plethora of dishes is the aromatic tomato-based and herb- flavoured Oxtail Soup.

It is as the menu says, hearty and homey because it was easy to get hooked to the succulent soup with each spoonful.

But before we got down to the heavyweights of the night, Wong and his wife Sonila Hajderasi pampered us with a serving of freshly shucked greyish white Canadian oysters priced at RM42+ per half dozen.

As six pieces would have been inadequate for our party of five, a dozen of those wonderful oceanic treasures nicely propped up on a bed of ice were placed before us.

Lemon wedges accompanied the serving of oysters which were good with a touch of tang and even better with a drop or two of homemade Porto Romano chilli sauce.

I knew that Wong would not be serving the Stinco d’Agnello - Lamb Shank, my personal favourite on the main course but would instead unveil a main course I had never tried before.

It turned out to be the Moussaka, a classic Mediterranean favourite that is best known in its Greek form.

Hajderasi, who is Albanian, is familiar with the dish as it is also part of her cuisine.

Bearing similarity to the Greek version, the Moussaka is a generous serving with minced lamb, eggplant, capsicum, onions, carrot and garlic with a layer of bechamel with cheese to hide its rough texture.

With all that carbohydrates and meat, the Sole Fish Fillet grilled and served with lemon butter sauce lightened our load a little.

Of course, a meal is not complete until dessert shows itself and our meal ended with a rich and heavy Tiramisu.

The many paintings on the walls are by Hajderasi’s father who spent his recent holiday in Malaysia painting familiar scenes back in Albania and those of neighbouring lands.

The Mont Kiara outlet is the recent addition to the Porto Romano family. The other outlets are in Taman Tun Dr Ismail and Ampwalk (relocated from City Square).

RISTORANTE PORTO ROMANO, K-1, Mont Kiara Banyan, 28, Jalan Kiara, Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-6207 8171 - Mont Kiara, 03-2162 6799 - Ampwalk, 03-7710 0509 - Taman Tun Dr Ismail). Business hours: 11am to 11pm daily.

A Quacking Bowl Of Duck Thigh Noodles

2009-03-26T15:02:00.005+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

A stall in Puchong wins hands down for the best Ngap Thui Meen

NGAP THUI MEEN or duck thigh noodles is a dish that you won’t find everywhere especially in the Klang Valley.

This noodle dish is made famous by the Pun Chun restaurant in Bidor, Perak. Now, I must say that I am a huge fan of the ngap thui meen and my quest for a perfect bowl had taken me to many places around the country.

The best: The duck thigh noodles stall at Ramai coffee shop in Puchong.

Well, many folks I come across hated duck. Why? It is an acquired taste. Some say it’s gamey while others simply do not know how to appreciate duck.

So, if you are still reading, that means you are interested. All right - for starters, this particular noodles comes in two variants. You can either have the kwon-lou (dry) or chee suay (soup).

In the soupy version, you will find a piece of double-boiled roasted duck thigh (at this point, the meat is tender and less gamey in taste) with Chinese herbs.

The soup base with its meat is double boiled for at least six hours before it is mixed with egg noodles. So, you are actually tasting the essence of the duck.

But don’t be confused with the use of herbs because as far as I know, there is little medicinal value in this soupy noodle dish. What I like, is the clear and smooth taste of the herbal soup and since the duck thigh is so tender, even toothless senior citizens can enjoy it.

Tasty duck: Pun Chun coffee shop’s ngap thui meen.

And just when I thought the Bidor duck thigh noodles are second to none, one contender from Puchong stands out.

My perception changed when I tasted what Puchong had to offer. This, in my humble opinion, is one of the best ngap thui meen around.

Best of all, the stall is located in a corner coffee shop called Ramai food centre near Tesco, which is about a 10-minute drive away from where I live.

I discovered the coffee shop by chance when I took my wife to a clinic there. The moment I saw the stall, my immediate reaction was to order a bowl.

And in no time, the lady owner of this stall came with a steaming hot bowl of ngap thui meen. Compared to the Bidor version, the soup base of my noodles was crystal clear.

Even the noodles were different. Instead of giving preserved green chillies as a dip for the noodles, this stall offered sliced chilli api.

Now, that gave it the required ‘ooomph!’ that got me sweating buckets.

Although the portion seemed small, the tasty and tender duck meat and excellent herbal broth made up for it.

I was also surprised to find out that both coffee shops charged the same amount. A bowl of ngap thui meen costs RM6.30. But if you want to compare the taste, then you will have to take a drive up north to find out whether Pun Chun can live up to your expectations or not.

The Ramai coffee shop in Puchong caters mainly to the local crowd while Pun Chun, once a thriving eatery from the old KL - Ipoh trunk road era is now experiencing a revival. Many tourists from out of town frequent this coffee shop in the heart of Bidor that also caters to wedding functions.

The Puchong coffee shop caters more to people working in the area and if you are around the Tesco hypermart, you might want to give this place a try.

Speaking of Pun Chun, a colleague of mine told me that the restaurant has a branch in Kota Kemuning near Klang.

You can find out more by accessing its blog at: www.punchun.blogspot.com. The Lat, Long coordinates for Pun Chun in Bidor, Perak, is Lat 04 06 693, Long 101 17 255 and the coordinates for Ramai coffee shop is Lat 03 01 995, Long 101 36 897.

Please note that the GPS coordinates works only with handheld and in-vehicle units. Google mapping software is not compatible with the position given, so, good luck and happy eating!

Cheap And Good Vegetarian Fare

2009-03-26T14:54:00.005+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

READER Phang Hui Leng wanted to know where she can find vegetarian chap-fan (economy rice) at dirt cheap prices. I received her e-mail recently and got cracking. As far as I know, there is one place in the shopping district of Kuala Lumpur that fits the bill.

It's located in a place called Kam Hor (golden river) in Jalan Sultan Ismail and yes, you guessed it right, it's Sungai Wang Plaza.

There, you can find a rooftop hawker centre that had been around for nearly 30 years.

Affordable: Le Tian vegetarian stall at Sungai Wang Plaza's rooftop hawker centre.

Today, it's still one of the hottest places in the city centre for cheap food.

Having worked in this area for three years, I found a vegetarian chap-fan stall called ‘Le Tian' at the far end corner near the shopping mall's lobby.

The food here is good and after a series of return visits, I still find it affordable and tasty. I also frequented this place occassionaly on Fridays taking advantage of the long lunch breaks.

The Sungai Wang rooftop hawker centre was also the place where I rekindled ties with my ex-schoolmate CK Ching. Ching, a regular at the stall said he was satisfied with the choice of dishes and usually satiated by a small serving of rice, tofu and vegetables.

Tasty: The vegetarian chap-fan from Le Tian costs RM5.50 a plate.

What suprised me at this stall was the wide range of vegetarian dishes. From stir-fried leafy vegetables to processed soya bean meals, there's enough variety to satisfy even the most fussy vegetarians.

And at prices below RM5 per plate (rice and a choice of two dishes), you could not complain. Highly recommended is the vegetable curry and fried Chinese cabbage with glass noodles.

Also on top of my list, is the vegetarian char siew (mock sugar-glaced roasted pork) and siew ngor (mock roast goose).

Since this is a self-service outlet, you just take what you want to eat and proceed to the counter and pay. Usually, my tab would come up to RM5.50 inclusive of a glass of Chinese tea.

I found this to be consistent throughout my visit to the stall. The stall opens for breakfast and is usually packed during lunch hour.

Just a block away from Sungai Wang Plaza, there's another vegetarian makan place.

Tasty: The vegetarian chap-fan from Le Tian costs RM5.50 a plate.

But this one is rather upscale, so, if you expect some good food, it can be found here.

My buddy Ching showed the way to the lower ground level of Low Yat Plaza. The eatery is called ‘Vegegood Restaurant' that serves a decent selection of local fare prepared a'la vegetarian. The person who manned the counter recommended their "Hainanese Chicken Rice" at RM5.50.

Since this is an upscale makan place, the average pricing for a plate of rice and dishes starts from RM5 and above. My buddy paid RM14 for two persons.

Now, compared with the rooftop in Sungai Wang Plaza, the Vegegood restaurant is a place where you can hangout and chit chat because it is a cozy environment.

To get to Sungai Wang Plaza, the fastest and most convenient way is to hop onto a KL-Monorail service to the Bukit Bintang station.

Once there, you could access the rooftop hawker centre on its fourth floor via a link bridge and elevator.

I believe address is not necessary since Sungai Wang Plaza is a well-known landmark in KL. For the Vegegood restaurant, it is located at Lot LG 13-15 in Plaza Low Yat.

To get there, take the KL-Monorail to the Imbi station.

Famished For Fishballs

2009-03-26T14:42:00.005+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

DO you know that there is a makan place that specialises in fishball noodles in USJ 9, Subang Jaya?

I came to find out about this some time back. And, occasionally, my wife and I would dine at the outlet. Called Ah Koong, this place is located just a few rows away from the neighbourhood nasi kandar restaurant.

Enticing: Fishballs, fish cake and seaweed in a soupy broth.

I would say that the fookchow yuen (Fookchow fishballs with meat filling) is one of the star attractions here.

A couple of these will set in your stomach like cement and even seasoned fishball lovers are rarely known to order more than a pair of the delicacies at a time.

With fishballs so good, the price is at a premium but I think it’s well worth it.

What’s interesting about this eatery is that you can actually pick what you want to go with your bowl of noodles The standard fare for a single person at Ah Koong’s costs about RM6.

Fried delight: The fish cake is a perfect accompaniment to a bowl of noodles.

For those who would like some variety, there is a vast selection of Teo Chew dishes from to choose. One of my favourites is the Teo Chew fish roll.

Basically, its a slice of fish cake with a piece of lobak (turnip), celery and red chilli rolled together. I understand that a piece of this delicacy costs about 80sen or more.

For me, I have the appetite of a dinosaur. So, I will fill up my bowl with a selection of fishballs, fishcake and yong tau foo, yong choy (stuffed beancurd and vegetables) and foo chuk (beancurd sheets).

Tasty find: Ah Koong’s noodle shop on USJ 9, Subang Jaya.

To add more zing to the noodles, you can also add fresh hor chien or oysters, which are an essential part of the Teo Chew style of preparing soup noodles.

With the whole works thrown in, a bowl of noodles can easily come up to RM12 a bowl, a bit pricey but considering the quality and variety, still affordable.

In fact, it’s a small price to pay if a horror story I once heard turns out to be true. Apparently, there was a patron who was charged RM80 for a bowl of fishball noodles with the works thrown in.

The patron had ordered a bowl of fishball noodles with everything thrown in. So, the noodle seller added in a piece of abalone, a few pieces of canned razor clams and some oysters.

Raw ingredient: Tasty find: Ah Koong’s noodle shop on USJ 9, Subang Jaya. A quick look at the fish cake before it is cooked.

Little did the customer know that such exotic add-ons were costly right from the get-go. For me, the best way to savour Ah Koong’s fishball noodles is to order a bowl of kwon lou meen (dry gravy).

Highly recommended is the spinach noodles (green in colour) and what made my experience complete is the fact that chee yau char (pork crackling) is added as a garnish.

As far as taste is concerned, Ah Koong lives up to my expectations. And for the extras like a clean dining area and air conditioning, you cannot ask for more.

For the soup lover, you can expect this to be a hearty meal. The dish is prepared with minced pork, seaweed and preserved vegetables.

And the fookchow yuen makes the soup noodles a complete meal. For those who wanted to tah pau (takeaway), the fookchow fishballs are also available as a frozen item.

This means, you can have your own instant noodles with an added oomph!. Internet savvy readers can check out www.ahkoong.com for more details such as their branches and full address including phone numbers.

Stewed Brisket Dish A Surprising Find In The Heart Of Subang Jaya

2009-03-26T14:28:00.008+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

WHO has the best ngou lam fun (stewed beef brisket noodles) around Subang Jaya?

This question was posed to me by Jake Lam, a reader from USJ 20. Lam said he had yet to locate a stall around the neighbourhood that can satisfy his needs.

Hard at work: Siew Lan cher whipping up a bowl of stewed beef brisket.

Surprisingly enough, I have an answer. There is a stall in Good Year Court 2 in USJ 6 that lives up to the expectations.

I came to know of this place by chance a year ago. The place in question is Q-up coffee shop which is managed by Alex Ang, a friend of mine.

Known as Lou Kor (old brother), Ang has been in the coffee shop business for nearly a decade after retiring from civil service.

At his place, I found an elderly lady and her daughter in-law running the show. She sells wan tan mee and has a loyal following from people around the neighbourhood.

Brisk business: The lunch crowd at Q-up cafe.

Called Siew Lan cher (sister Siew Lan), the lady can dish out a hearty ngau lam fun. Now, before I go any further, there are two version of the dish

First, there’s the beef noodles prepared Hainanese style. I am talking about the Cantonese style where beef brisket is stewed with ginger and spices such as the star anise, clove and cinnamon.

Originally from Karak, Pahang, Siew Lan began to dabble in the noodle business with her family when she was young.

Tasty treat: The noodles also come with dry gravy.

She now runs a stall at Ang’s coffee shop with her son and daughter in-law. Now, getting to the ngau lam fun, I must say that the noodles she had prepared are similar to what I had a long time ago from a roadside stall near the Air Panas traffic junction in Setapak.

The beef brisket is stewed with spices and soya sauce until its soft. You can have it with soup or dried gravy.

A plate of ngau lum fun at Siew Lan’s stall costs RM5.50. I found the portions rather generous with plenty of beef to go around.

And, like I said earlier, this is one of the best old school stewed beef brisket around. I tried the lady’s beef noodles on two occasions.

Once, I had the kwon lou (dry gravy) ngau lam fun. I found it tasty and with a dash of chilli sauce, the brisket went down smooth.

Stewed beef brisket in soup

Complemented by a cold glass of home brewed kuk fah (chrysantenum tea), my makan experience there was complete.

As for the soupy variant, Siew Lan cher charged me RM6 a bowl. This, of course, has some wantan dumplings and char siew thrown in.

Speaking of rarity, there aren’t many places around that serve up a good plate of ngau lam fun. Of course, if I asked around and do some research on the Internet, the answers may pop up in food blogs and websites specialising in local foodstuff.

Q-up coffee shop is located in USJ 6, the landmark here is the Summit USJ shopping mall. Just make your way to Persiaran Tujuan, the Good Year Court 2 is located opposite a Shell petrol station.

Sorry, no GPS coordinates here and, if you got lost, the cops at the USJ 8 police station will be glad to point you in the right direction.

> UPDATE: Siew Lan’s wantan mee stall has moved from Q-Up to a larger coffee shop at Court 6. To locate it, keep an eye out for a banner written in Chinese.

Old Favourites At Coffee Shop

2009-03-26T14:19:00.004+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

THERE are plenty of good makan places in Jalan Imbi and let me start with a corner coffee shop located at the intersection of Jalan Walter Grenier and Jalan Imbi.

Called Win Heng Seng coffee shop, this landmark makan place has been around for decades.

But before I continue any further, let me tell you that this particular neighbourhood in Kuala Lumpur’s city centre was once plagued by crime.

The backlane where this particular coffee shop stands, was the scene of a fatal shootout between the cops and some robbers back in the mid-90s.

A well-known landmark: The corner coffee shop in Jalan Imbi.

And not long ago, a prominent businessman was shot and killed at a popular restaurant located two doors away.

So, if you are a fan of gangster movies that romanticised thugs and tough guys, Jalan Imbi is one of those places where you could still find some shady characters.

The neighbourhood’s violent past aside, Win Seng Heng coffee shop is well-known for three things. First, for its chee cheong fun stall on the left side of the shop’s entrance that’s said to be one of the best.

Then, the yuk-yeen fun (meatball noodles) is said to be one of the finest around and lastly, there is a Chinese confectionery shop that specialises in mini egg tarts.

One of my acquaintances who became a full-time ‘foodie’, Johnny ‘The Mouth’ (he never stops talking) Cheong concurred that the stall serves the best chee cheong fun.

Cheong added that the coffee shop had been refurbished with a new paint job since Jalan Imbi is within the proximity of the Bukit Bintang area.

“Eh Sam ah! When I was a rookie management staff at a bank in this neighbourhood ah, the Win Seng Heng coffee shop is my regular place lah. I eat there every morning.”

Egg-licious: These mini egg tarts are tasty!

Since relocating to Rawang, Cheong said he regularly makes a trip to the outlet on alternate weekends with his wife.

“Ah, this is also the place I met Rose, my wife lah. We use to share a plate of chee cheong fun lah.” Taking the cue from Cheong the romantic, I took Michelle, my wife to this coffee shop after making her walk nearly 1.2km around the Bukit Bintang area.

We arrived there on a late Saturday morning to savour the good hawker food here and lucky for us, there was a empty table in this packed eatery.

I ordered a bowl of yuk-yeen fun while Michelle went for the chee-yuk fun (pork noodles). Regretfully, I did not order the chee cheong fun as my bowl of noodles became the main order of the day.

Right at the far end of the coffee shop, I could see the stall owner of the meatball noodle working at a break neck pace - filling his orders as his Myanmar workers moved quickly to serve the waiting customers.

Back in the 80s, I patronised this coffee shop a couple of times and found that none of the old hands are working there anymore.

Chinese stall hands had been replaced by Cantonese-speaking Myanmar workers who are efficient and skillful in their trade.

Here, a bowl of meatball noodles costs RM5 per serving. I asked for a small bowl and my meal came complete with six pieces of meatballs including a few slices of siew cheong (roasted stuffed pork intestine) and yuk sway (minced pork).

Tasty: Win Seng Heng’s meatball noodles.

On a scale from 1 to 10 on my ‘Samoscale’, I’d say Win Seng Heng’s yuk yeen fun would come in at 7. Basically, I used my favourite stall in Lucky Garden, Bangsar as the benchmark.

Michelle on the other hand, wasn’t that lucky because her bowl of mee suah was lousy and expensive. At RM6 a bowl, all I can see was soup and a few strands of noodles.

So, lunch for two person including drinks was at RM13.80. I can’t complain because around Jalan Imbi, this is still one of the cheapest makan places around.

After our meals, Michelle went to the confectionary stall to buy two pieces of mini egg-tarts for RM1.20. Now, the best kept secret in this coffee shop - is the lady that sells siew pau (baked pork buns) and tann-tart (egg tarts).

By far, the tastiest confectionary that I’ve come across, we rounded up a dozen tarts before making our way out of the coffee shop.

Apart from the meatball noodles, chee cheong fun and egg tart, there’s also a couple who sold roasted pork and chicken rice.

They come highly recommended and to make up for the missed chee cheong fun session, I am planning to make a return trip to the neighbourhood because there is a famous stir-fried beef noodle shop around here.

Win Seng Heng coffee shop is just a 10-minute walk from the Bukit Bintang and Imbi monorail station and is open for breakfast and lunch daily.

Piping Hot Bowl Of Noodles

2009-03-26T14:07:00.006+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

OF ALL the Chinese noodle dishes, the yee thau mai (fish-head beehoon) is one of the most extraordinary.

It stands out because of its ingredients — salted vegetables, deep fried fish head, tomatoes and condensed milk.

I was first introduced to the yee thau mai by one of my ex-bosses Albert Lee (I used to work in a production house in SS19, Subang Jaya), who took me to a stall in Taman OUG, Old Klang Road.

Prompt service: Wah Cheong coffee shop is a popular eating place.

There, he treated me to a bowl of noodles at a corner coffeeshop and I was told that this was the best yee thau mai around the neighbourhood.

That was of course was nearly two decades ago.

Today, the fish head beehoon is a thriving food business. Even K.Y. Lau, my father in-law told me of some outlets specialising in the dish in Jalan Kuchai Lama.

I have yet to verify his findings and recently, Majorie Chiew, a colleague of mine tipped me off about a stall serving this particular dish in Section 17, Petaling Jaya.

“Eh Sam ah! Have you tried this place? I had a bowl of fish head noodles there and the portions are generous. You should check it out,” said Chiew.

Generous portion: Wah Cheong coffee shop’s yee thau mai.

So, on one Sunday afternoon, I went to the place in question and ordered a bowl of noodles. It’s not hard to find it because the stall is located at a corner coffeeshop called Wah Cheong.

Now, what I saw at the entrance of this makan place was a bit of a concern to me. Foreign workers hired by the stall owners were seen washing eating utensils, bowls and plates on top of a drain cover.

This is course, is the biggest letdown. Reservations aside, I proceeded with the order and waited patiently for my yee thau mai to be served.

While there, I could see a steady stream of people savouring their food during the lunch break. The variety of food worth mentioninig here are the yuk yeen fun (meatball noodles), chicken rice, and hakka noodles.

Chiew, who is a fellow food critic in The Star also mentioned about the yong tau foo, which is priced at 90sen a piece.

This, she added, is the cheapest stall around Petaling Jaya. Okay, back to the yee thau mai, I ordered a small bowl of noodles and delivery was prompt. In about 10 minutes, I was served with a piping hot bowl of noodles.

Now, in order not to attract too much attention, I took out my Nokia N-82 cellphone and started snapping some close-up shots with its built-in camera.

Now, on a scale from 1 -10, I would rate Wah Cheong’s yee thau mai a 6.

I found the fare to be pretty decent. Compared with the same dishes I had in Old Klang Road and Subang Jaya, this yee thau mai lacked a few things: coriander, spring onion leaves and soft tofu.

But then, there are different styles in serving the fish-head beehoon.

And at RM5 a treat, I’d say that the portion was generous.

Most fish head noodle stalls use freshwater fish like the Chinese carp and Giant snakehead as its main ingredients.

If you hate the “earthy” taste of freshwater fish, then this may be an acquired taste. All you need to do, is to dab it with some fiery cili api and soya sauce.

After leaving Wah Cheong’s coffeeshop for my office, I bumped into my colleague Peter Hoe, who is an old friend and was an intrepid traveller in his younger days.

Hoe, who was having lunch in a coffeeshop opposite Wah Cheong, actually saw me taking photos with my cellphone’s camera.

I told him my purpose and his reaction was: “Haiyaaa! If you love fish head noodles, I take you to Taman Desa lah bradder! The quality is second to none and nobody has disputed it.”

So, I took note of that because my next food trail would be with Hoe on the hunt for the best yee thau mai in the Klang Valley.

Now, to get to Wah Cheong coffeeshop, the best way is to car pool because parking is scarce. To locate this coffeeshop, head to Jalan 17/29. Lat, Long coordinates for this makan place are: 3°7’44”N 101°38’3”E.

So, have a great time finding this place and happy eating!

Hunt For Asam Laksa Leads To An Impressive Find At USJ 10 Coffee Shop

2009-03-26T13:45:00.004+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

ASAM laksa is a noodle dish that you might love or hate. Why? It’s different from any other spicy and savoury food that you have ever tasted. Originating from the North, the asam laksa found its way to the Klang Valley through urban migration.

My fondest memory of this particular noodle dish was when I was a kid growing up near the Chow Kit wet market. My family had a small business there and every evening, a man on a tricycle that he had modified into a mobile kitchen would go on his rounds.

Now, what made his selling technique unique was the loud ding! he made with his porcelain spoon and bowl.

A good deal: The asam laksa stall in Nanking coffee shop.

Around 5pm, the man will go on his rounds calling: laksa! laksa! ding! ding! ding! and in a matter of minutes, his tricycle would be swamped by a steady queue of hungry noodle lovers.

The moment our friendly neighbourhood laksa-man uncovers his pot of hot asam laksa gravy, the lovely aroma would permeate the air.

Well, that was some 30 years ago when a small bowl of asam laksa cost RM1.

What made the experience memorable, was the gravy, its ingredients and the garnishing.

A good bowl of asam laksa comes with a rich gravy consisting of finely minced ikan kembung (Indian mackerel), a blend of spices and tamarind juice.

You can have either beehoon or the lai fun (coarse vermecelli) and the noodles are usually garnished with grated cucumber, fresh red onions, pineapple, chopped bunga kantan (wild ginger), red chillies and mint leaves.

As the asam laksa is an acquired taste, some folk may find it too sour and tangy. Having travelled vastly around the country, I’d say that the best asam laksa is found in Penang.

An acquired taste: Nanking coffee shop’s asam laksa.

However, if you live in the Klang Valley, there are still places that offer this noodle dish.

The trick is to know where to find it. I wouldn’t recommend having a bowl of laksa in posh outlets because it’s going to cost you at least RM15 a bowl.

I set out on a quest to locate the best asam laksa and I focused on a few coffee shops in the Klang Valley.

First on my list, was a coffee shop recommended by my friend T.S. Tong who hails from Sungai Petani.

Tong, a long-time resident of Subang Jaya, gave directions to Nanking coffee shop in USJ10/1D.

In short, this place is called Tai Pan. Based on his description of the area, it was not difficult to locate the outlet. As a matter of fact, I had eaten there before with my wife.

Now, to overcome the USJ10’s parking nightmare and the hungry lunch crowd, I suggest that you park as far away as possible from this place. Take a walk because the excercise could help to build an appetite.

Nanking coffee shop is situated in a corner lot. I found the asam laksa stall as described by Tong and ordered a small bowl from a middle aged man who manages the place.

Before I go any further, let me warn you that the hygiene level in this particular makan place is not at the highest. As a matter of fact, it was rather filthy.

But with my mission at hand, I went ahead with my order and when a Myanmar worker delivered my hot bowl of assam laksa, I was nothing but impressed.

Everything that I’d expected was served, but with one minor exception - I found Chinese lettuce as part of the garnishing. Strange, but nevertheless, it added the ‘green and fresh’ zing to it.

Now, the treat that made my day was a big spoonful of har kou (prawn paste). Some guys hate this and swear that it’s bad for their virility. But it didn’t bother me because prawn paste actually sweetens the sour and tangy gravy.

When I was a kid, I was told by a laksa Utara stall owner that he would go broke if I go on asking for more helping of the petis or prawn paste.

Back to the Nanking story - well, at RM4 a bowl, I’d say that the asam laksa is as good as Tong had described it. This means, I owe him a jug of beer for doubting his recommendations.

Now, before I conclude this food trail, let me say that it’s not difficult at all to locate Nanking coffee shop in USJ 10 and whenever in doubt, do a ‘Google Search’. Sorry, no maps, telephone numbers and address, so, happy hunting!

Mee Bandung Revisited

2009-03-26T13:26:00.006+08:00

Food Trail
By SAM CHEONG

FIRST of all, I would like to thank all the readers out there for the helpful suggestions sent in via email.

There are plenty of good makan places that I would like to check out and, recently, Pak Hassan, an old fishing buddy of mine who has relocated to Subang Jaya from Puchong alerted me about a Mee Bandung Muar stall in USJ 11.

Kedai Kopi 333’s local coffee and starters: Half boiled eggs and kaya toast.

“Eh Sam, you should check out this stall-lah. In my area, there are not many food operators – especially the Malays – who offer a simple noodle dish like that.

“I find that the price is also very reasonable. But, there is a catch, you can only get to try the Mee Bandung after sunset,” he said.

I took the cue from Pak Hassan because there have been numerous requests from readers for makan places that are halal.

Kedai Kopi 333 at Jalan USJ 11/1J was formerly a mamak restaurant and, recently, a bumiputra entrepreneur had taken over the business.

Generous portion: Mee Bandung Muar

With some detective work, I learnt that the outlet is operated by Mohd Adib Sidek, an old hand at street food.

Adib is known for his other outlet in SS15 called Kafe FAB. This is also the guy responsible for the Sup Bomba and Nasi Telepon Booth.

With Pak Hassan’s recommendation in hand, I went over to the Kedai Kopi 333 after office hours. It wasn’t hard to locate the eatery as it is brightly lit during the night.

When I got there, the first thing that caught my attention was a stall with a signboard that read Mee Bandung Muar.

But, before I delve into this traditional Malay dish, here’s a side story; when I was growing up near the Jalan Raja Bot market, I had a school friend named Anuar Saad.

Spicy treat: Nasi rendang minang

His mother ran a stall specialising in Mee Bandung and she would often offer me a serving at no charge, although at RM1.50 a plate, the price was reasonable for the late 1970s.

The noodles were tasty and you would find the standard garnishings like chopped coriander, fried shallots, slices of tofu, a poached egg, beef slices and shrimps.

To me, Anuar’s mum’s cooking has become the benchmark for a good Mee Bandung. As a matter of fact, some of the stalls at Jalan Raja Bot still offer the dish, though whether Anuar’s mum is among them, I do not know. Perhaps a follow-up trip is in order!.

Back to Kedai Kopi 333. I met the stall operator who goes by the name Rosli ‘ganu (he’s from Terengganu) who told me that he learned the Mee Bandung Muar recipe from several masters from Johor.

“Ah, Mee Bandung ni, saya berguru dengan orang Batu Pahat. Dan perisa Mee Bandung Muar ni memang lain pasal kita guna banyak udang kering dan sup tulang.” (I learned this from a guy from Batu Pahat and to prepare the gravy, I use plenty of dried shrimp and beef stock.)

I gave this noodle dish a try at RM5 a helping and found it to be decent tasting. There’s a generous portion of egg noodles and garnishing to go around.

While I was savouring the Mee Bandung, I also noticed customers ordering take-away portions. On average, Rosli said he could sell up to 50 plates of noodles a night.

He added that demand soared during the weekends, especially if there was a late night televised soccer match. Well, for RM5, I had nothing to complain about.

According to Rosli, Kedai Kopi 333 also specialises in rice dishes like the nasi ayam percik and nasi rendang minang.

I tried the coffee here and found it to be just average. Anyway, the outlet is one of the very few Kopitiam that is fully managed by a Malay owner.

So, on that note, the food there which is based on the Southern way of preparation is commendable.So, if you plan to make a trip to Kedai Kopi 333 for a plate of Mee Bandung, the best time is from 7pm to 10pm.

For handheld GPS owners, the coordinates are: 3 2’ 23” N, 101 34’ 44” E. Oh, last but not least, if you own a cellphone that uses the A-GPS mode, be reminded that data packet charges applies to this function. So, till the next outing, happy hunting and have a good makan!

The Place For Fish Head Curry

2009-03-26T13:16:00.004+08:00

Food Trail
By SAM CHEONG

THERE is a fish head curry stall in Kampung Attap where the “who’s who” in Kuala Lumpur frequently hang out.

This place had eluded me for nearly a year since I planned to have lunch there with my colleagues Frederick Fernandez and Y.P. Sivam. Our last attempt to makan there ended in failure because the stall was closed.

Growing business: The stall has expanded its operations to this shop in Kampung Attap.

If you love fish head curry, this is one of the highly recommended places in the city centre.

As for the “celebrity list” of who eats here, suffice it to say I heard that local singers, actors, actresses, corporate bigwigs and even politicians have checked it out.

The place in question is ZK Kari Kepala Ikan. It has been around for decades and became the talk of the town among food lovers.

I had heard of this place from a cab driver some 15 years ago while we were driving past a ramp near Kampung Attap. “Eh, kalau abang nak makan nasi campur murah, ah, ni tempat dia (if you want to pack your nasi campur, this is the place),” he said.

Generous portion: The curry fish head is enough to feed at least three people.

So, after giving it a miss for nearly a decade, I finally checked it out three years ago. To get my fill, I rounded up some old kaki, namely, C.M. Khor, Philip Lim and Lee Hon Yew.

These are guys who love food and I value their opinion, especially that of Lee, who has been a photographer for more than four decades.

I find the fare here pretty decent. The stall offers curry fish head at RM50 a pop, and besides that, you can also savour its ayam madu (fried chicken with honey gravy).

To get a fresh perspective on this, I revisited the stall with my colleague Frederick and Adrian Phung, one of the interns on our desk.

“Eh, Fred, if we want to makan there ah, better leave early because the place is usually crowded during lunch time,” I advised.

So, after we completed our morning duties, we left for the stall from Menara Star in Section 16 via the Kerinchi Link. The journey took us about 15 minutes.

Finding a place to park around the Kampung Attap area can be a hassle. Paid parking lots are an option but many of the patrons here choose to double park their vehicles along the busy stretch, which has proven to be a problem to some motorists.

Once we had located a parking spot, we took a walk to the makan place and found a large crowd there. We picked a strategic place to sit, with the stall and its crowd in full view.

Frederick ordered a serving of curry fish head and each of us settled on the ayam madu as our side order. Service was prompt, with the food delivered in less than 10 minutes.

We had the ikan merah (red snapper) head served with lady’s finger, eggplant and taufoo pok (bean curd). The standard side orders that come with our order were taugeh masak kobis (bean sprouts and cabbage) and acar bawang cili hijau kicap manis (sliced onions with green chillies and dark soya sauce).

Where taste is concerned, I would say that it was pretty decent. On a scale of 1-10, ZK kari kepala ikan would rate a 6. The portions are generous, and to savour the fish head, you will need a minimum of three persons. We were fortunate to have Phun to back us up during the makan session.

My only grouse is that the fish head was not cleaned properly. I found some scales on the fish head, which was a turn-off.

But, that did not stop me from enjoying my favourite part of the dish – the fish eyeballs. And, as Frederick and Phun did not share my taste for it, the pleasure of sucking the soft, jelly-like flesh and chewy eyeballs out of the fish head’s eye sockets was all mine.

Before that, I polished off the lower jaws, lips and tongue of the snapper. Our bill for the day came up to RM84. A hefty sum, but if you share the cost, it is a worthwhile experience.

Well, just as we were walking back to our car, two decently dressed guys approached me and introduced themselves.

I immediately sized them up and assessed the situation. From the first impression, they looked like thugs from the tiga line group. But, they were polite, and that made the difference in a standoff situation.

“Eh, encik tadi ambil gambar untuk tujuan apa?” one of them asked. So, I told him that I took photos of the stall’s exterior as a visual reference so that I could introduce the curry fish head place to my friends.

I was not intimidated by their action, nor was I in a state of panic. With my “how to get out of a hairy situations” training, I told them that they had nothing to worry about. Perhaps they, too, were intimidated by my sheer built and having politely addressed the situation, they backed off with a smile.

Later, I learnt that some politicians were having their lunch there and as we drove past a row of cars parked on the roadside, I saw the vehicle of a high-ranking government official, which explained the cloak and dagger situation that I had experienced. The guys who had come up to me and asked the purpose of my taking pictures there might have been the bigwig’s escort detail.

But, back to how to get there: since there are no direct bus routes to this area, the highly recommended way to get there is by carpooling.

You can also take the KL monorail and get off at Jalan Maharjalela. From the monorail station, it is about a 12-minute walk to get to the stall, which is located at the far end corner of Jalan Kampung Attap.

If you own an in-vehicle GPS navigator, the lat - long coordinates are: 3 8’ 31” N, 101 41’ 43” E.

So, have fun and a great time!

Barbecued To Perfection

2009-03-26T13:04:00.008+08:00

By CHRISTINA LOW

IT IS never easy being the new kid on the block but Tempt a Tempt BBQ restaurant is already planning to cement its place in the hearts of foodies living in Cheras with its unique array of Chinese food.

“In the same way that particular brand names are used by the public to refer to certain products, we want ours to be synonymous with the kind of food we serve,” said the restaurant’s operations manager, Lee Chai Eng.

Lee said the three-month-old outlet in Cheras was the company’s first, and they had chosen to focus on value-for-money barbecue favourites.

All-in-one: Three Treasures BBQ Combo Rice comes with a small portion each of Roast Pork, Roast Duck and Honey Glazed Roast Pork

According to Lee, the barbecue dishes are all prepared to traditional recipes, but she declined to share anything on them despite my best cajoling efforts.

Lee lamented that many modern chefs often modified the taste of the food according to their personal preferences, so not many people really knew how the original dishes tasted, and thus, the restaurant kept strictly to recipes and ingredients that were said to be authentic.

“These days, chefs sometimes substitute some ingredients in a recipe, and then perhaps change them again. But, if we keep changing things, after a while the young would not know how original dishes taste, and in future, no one would know,” Lee said.

Lee said one of the authentic dishes served at the outlet was the specially prepared Roasted Suckling Pig, which was available in three sizes — small, medium and large — at RM128, RM148 and RM178 respectively. It is said to be a hit among the youngsters.

Chef’s recommendation: Crispy Boneless Chicken with Roast Almond Flakes.

“There are a number of Chinese festivals for which this dish is used for prayers or as gifts to a family.

“However, it would be a nightmare for the younger set to purchase it, as many simply do not know where to find it. But now they do,” said Lee.

Those who buy the suckling pig would be bringing the delicacy home in a specially designed red box to suit every occasion.

Gauging from the dishes chef Chan Weng San dished out during the review, patrons of the outlet will be in for a surprise. For a start, there is the array of dishes on the menu.

Cool treat: Vanilla with Longan Sea Coconut Smoothie.

Chan recommended the Deep Fried Lotus Slices and Crispy Boneless Chicken with Roast Almond Flakes.

The lotus root slices were crispy like potato chips, but Chan gave a twist to the vegetable by tossing it in mashed salted egg yolk, making it an instant favourite of mine.

The restaurant serves several varieties of porridge, such as Paddy Frog, Sliced Venison, Fish and Pork Liver, Abalone, Pork and Chicken.

Noodles like vermicelli, hor fun, yee mee, prepared in a variety of ways, as well as the traditional wanton noodles, are also available.

For dessert, you can choose from Mango Pudding, Peanut Paste, Glutinous Dumpling in Ginger Soup or Herbal Guiling Jelly.

> TEMPT A TEMPT BBQ, 24 Ground Floor, Jalan Manis 3, Taman Segar, Cheras, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-9132 0229). Business Hours: 10.30am to 10.30pm, daily. Non-halal.

Dishes To Celebrate A New Addition

2009-03-25T09:53:00.006+08:00

Story and Photos by JASON LIOH

THE annual Malacca Food Festival saw celebrity chefs and representatives from the state’s diverse community dishing out local delicacies for tourists and members of the public.

Organised by the Malacca Museums Corporation, the four-day event was a hit with people from all walks of life who were offered a free taste of specialities and traditional dishes from the Chinese, Malay, Indian, Chitty, Baba-Nyonya, Portuguese and orang asli community.

The theme chosen for this year’s festival was ‘baby’s full moon’ celebration where participants were required to prepare dishes for their respective communities for such an occasion.

Piping hot: Mother and daughter team Tan Geok Lian and Yong Yu Ting dishing out prawn fritters.

During the event, Vinlah Rajadory from the Malaccas Chitty community was seen preparing a traditional dish called ‘sambal belimbing’ using fish roe, prawns and star fruit.

“We used small prawns, star fruit, chilies, fish roe, herbs and spices to prepare this sambal dish,” said the 62-year-old retired nurse.

She also prepared labu masak pedas dengan ayam’ or spicy pumpkin chicken as her second dish that was served throughout the morning which she described was a combination of sweet, sour and spicy.

“These two dishes are a must to celebrate the baby’s full moon. However, we also prepare these dishes during festive season like Ponggal, New Year, birthdays and weddings,” she said.

Another participant, Velda Sv.velankanny, 46, who represented the Indian community, prepared traditional food like tosai, apom and kesary for visitors to savour.

Tasty: Helen Tan holding a box of pineapple tarts and traditional Nyonya ang ku kueh.

“People are familiar with the tosai and apom, but not the kesary. Kesary is an after meal dessert made using ghee, suji flour, condensed milk, raisin, cashew and cardamom,” the housewife said.

Meanwhile, orang asli participant Zuaney Sulaiman, 28, decided to go back to basics by preparing a complete meal including fish, chicken, white rice, vegetable and potatoes cooked in bamboo.

Cooks from the Baba-Nyonya community, on the other hand, prepared traditional delicacies like apam balik, layered steamed cakes, red eggs, ginger chicken, ang ku kueh and pineapple tarts.

“Red eggs and ang ku kueh are symbolic food for a baby’s full moon celebration. Both items symbolize prosperity and bring good luck to the baby,” 49-year-old homemaker Helen Tan Kek Lan said.

A booth serving nasi rembang from Selangor was also a hit among the visitors as everyone queued for a taste of it with the stall workers seen working non-stop.

Various ingredients: From top, clockwise, ayam masak ungkap, kerabu jawa, ikan masin bulu ayam, rempeyek, sambal goreng tempe, serunding kepala and steamed white rice in the middle are the ingredients for the traditional Selangor Nasi Rembang.

The rice dish was made of ingridients such as serunding kelapa, ayam masak ungkap, kerabu jawa, sambal goreng tempe, ikan masin bulu ayam and rempeyek.

Australian Peter Rowan gave two thumbs up to the organisers for organising the food festival where members of the public could sample the many traditional dishes prepared by various ethnic groups.

“I always worry that I would order something that I will never like whenever I patronize a local restaurant. The food festival solves my problem at one go,” said the 59-year-old property manager.

He added it was not his first visit to the historic city but it was the first time he was seeing such carnival being organised.

Stall In Rawang Offers Home-Cooked Food

2009-03-25T09:42:00.002+08:00

By LIM CHIA YING

There are no frills about this place — simple, basic, and down-to-earth. Even space appears rather limited.

But it has not stopped customers from patronising the Fei Kee Food Stall at a quiet, offbeat path in Rawang located amid a housing estate.

The outlet has been operating for more than two years now, manned and managed by husband and wife team of Lau Lian Kee and Lai Tsuey Ngoh.

The owners were previously selling chicken rice before venturing out to offer more home-cooked dishes for its patrons.

Its signature dish is the Home-Style Steamed Fish Head, done in three steam styles — the black bean, the soya sauce, or the ginger sauce.

Signature dish: The Home-Style Steamed Fish Head that has become a must-order among patrons.

Lau does not term his place as the usual ‘tai-chow’ (stir-fried dishes) type of outlet, but rather, a specialist in cooking fish head.

“The fish that I use is the Chinese carp (called tongsan in Cantonese) - a freshwater fish that is rarely used by other eating outlets in this area. Many of them use the tilapia, so I thought that I’d do something different with a different type of fish,” said Lau, 51.

He said he received his fish supply from a fish breeder-cum-supplier.

“It’s not easy cooking this fish as it involves a lot of thorough cleaning to rid off the earthy smell in the flesh.

“After washing through I’d use coarse salt to marinate it,” he said while preparing to bring the fish to steam at his humble kitchen area.

“The sauce that we use are also of good quality, to bring out the flavour,” said Lau.

While the soya sauce may appear a little sweet for my taste, however, the fish head was “full with flesh” and sufficient to feed even two or three persons, making it value-for-money for the RM19 or RM20 that one pays.

Next up was the Claypot Curry Prawns, which uses the evaporated milk — a healthier though costlier alternative than the usual coconut milk.

It is interesting to see Lau weighing the prawns on the weighing machine before cooking them which he said would help with the orders of small, medium, or a big claypot.

“Although evaporated milk is more expensive, we use it as coconut milk makes you feel heavy after the meal. But we still use a little bit of the coconut milk to enhance the taste,” he said.

Another popular order is the Pork Knuckle Black Vinegar, where Lau said the pork had to be first blanched over hot water for a few minutes before being fried with ginger to drain off the ‘porky’ smell.

“Only good quality vinegar is used so that the dish doesn’t turn out too sourish, which is the problem with cheap, low-grade vinegar,” he shared.

Also recommended is the Steamed Kampung Chicken strewn with herbs like wolfberries (kei chi in Cantonese), and herbs like the Chinese Angelica root or rhizomes (also known as Dong Gui in Chinese).

Lau said he picked up his cooking skills from friends who were good at cooking different items.

His wife, Lai, told me that they have customers coming at least three times a week to her place.

“Our lunch crowd is quite packed as working people from nearby offices and factories patronise the outlet. For dinner, the crowd usually comes in during weekends and not so much on weekdays,” she said.

FEI KEE FOOD STALL, NOC- 1, Kampong Datuk Lee Kim Sai, Jalan Batu 18/3, 48000 Rawang. (Tel: 012-2031938 / 016-6947309). Business hours: Daily; 11.30am to 8.30pm. Closed on Wednesdays.

Good Food And Travel Books

2009-03-24T12:21:00.005+08:00

Story and photos by SALINA KHALID

WHEN one thinks of a departure lounge, images of an airport will come to mind. Yet the Departure Lounge in Mont Kiara has nothing to do with an airport. Besides, there is no airport in Mont Kiara.

Departure Lounge is the latest restaurant located at Solaris, in the Mont Kiara neighbourhood.

After stepping into the restaurant, one will understand why the place is named as such.

Pictures of famous destinations, tourist attractions as well as images of people and faces from all over the world decorate part of the wall as if to greet customers.

Mexican classic: Chicken Puebla comes with chunks of marinated chicken strips, grilled tomatoes and capsicum rolled in flour tortilla and with lettuce. It is served with nacho chips and salsa.

Then in a corner, there is a reading area complete with chairs.

Rows of various books on travelling, including travel guides and information books by the Lonely Planet fill up the shelves.

There are even memorabilia like wooden clogs from the Netherlands, foreign car licence plates and commercial plane models on display along with the books.

Some of the books and memorabilia belong to the owners, others given by customers.

“These are the things that I love most — travelling, eating and reading.

“And we have them all here, all three subjects combined under one roof at Departure Lounge,” said co-owner Loo Chee Wei.

Being an avid traveller, besides enjoying food and reading, Loo opened the restaurant to share his passion with others.

He said the idea for the restaurant was mooted several years ago, before the opening of the first outlet.

Initially, he wanted to open a bookstore selling just travel related books. But then he realised that the idea might not be feasible as the demand for such books was still limited.

“In England there are bookstores that specialise in selling travel books because of the demand but it is different here.

“But Malaysians love to eat so we decided to open an eatery with a bookstore as part of the offering,” he said.

Together with his sister Annie Loo and two others, he opened his first outlet in Aman Suria, Petaling Jaya three years ago,

His wife, Tan Sheau Yann, and friend Jordan Chin have joined Chee Wei and Annie at the new outlet in Mont Kiara since its opening at the end of last year.

Patrons can browse the travel books and information available at the reading corner while enjoying a cuppa.

“Some of the books have my handwritten notes and which might come in handy to travellers.

“It helps because it contains tips and additional information besides what is stated in the book,” he said, stressing that the books are just for reading. No borrowing is allowed,

If one were to look for local favourites like fried noodles or nasi lemak then they should look elsewhere as Departure Lounge only offers all-day breakfast and sandwiches.

Tempting: Bagel bacon butty with either beef or turkey bacon comes in a choice of plain or bluebery bagel.

“Yet customers have more than 30 varieties of sandwiches to choose from and plenty of breakfast selections.

“Originally we started off with six sandwiches but now it has developed into an extensive listing for customers to choose from.

“Some of these sandwiches were recommended by our customers,” he said.

Some of the regular customers still prefer to have the original sandwiches like classic tuna, roast chicken or simply the grilled cheese sandwich,

The sandwiches are available in a variety of bread, sauces and condiments. During the food review recently, Chee Wei presented the “Do it my way” breakfast - chicken puebla and bagel bacon butty.

He said the Do-it-my-way breakfast was a favourite during the weekend as customers could make their own.

“They can choose to have three, five or seven items from the 13 on the list. All they have to do is tick the items in the order card so that we can prepare them according to their liking.

“It is especially popular for those who want to have a late breakfast or as a meal during the day,” he said.

Patrons can choose chicken sausages, turkey ham, beef bacon, turkey bacon, baked beans, hash brown, sauteed mushrooms, scrambled, fried or half-boiled eggs, grilled tomato, fish fingers or pancake. The order comes with toast.

The chicken puebla makes for a hearty meal. A Mexican classic, the finger food comes with chunks of marinated chicken strips, grilled with tomatoes and capsicum to add more flavour.

Rolled in flour tortilla with lettuce, the chicken puebla is served with nacho chips and salsa.

In the Britain, the word butty itself refers to a sandwich.

And at Departure Lounge, customers who order bagel bacon butty can choose either beef or turkey bacon which is cooked with HP sauce and served with lettuce on either plain or bluebery bagel. They can also opt for English muffin instead of bagel.

“Not many people know what bagel is but it is a common western breakfast.

“Although it looks like a doughnut, bagel is heartier and very filling.

“Usually, people simply take it toasted with cream cheese spread for breakfast but here we have it as a sandwich,” he said.

To complete the meal, one must try the variety of brewed coffee available at the outlet.

The adventurous should try the Black Forest Mocha or the Pink Guava Latte.

Chee Wei said they used raspberry syrup and chocolate sauce for the black forest mocha with raspberry sauce on top and similarly, the pink guava latte also uses pink guava syrup as its ingredient.

Although the name may raise some eyebrows, many of those who have tried these keep coming back for more.

Departure Lounge, No. 10, Jalan Solaris 4, Solaris Mont’ Kiara, 50480, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:(03-6203 0362). Business Hours: 8am - 7pm (Monday-Saturday) and 10am-5pm (Sunday and public holidays).

Meat So Fresh And Tender

2009-03-24T12:12:00.004+08:00

By YIP YOKE TENG

It is widely accepted that the longer meat is marinaded, the tastier it becomes. But that is not necessarily the case.

For meat that has never been frozen and when the right sauce is used, the natural sweetness appeals most. In cases like these, only minimal marination is required.

Let your hair down: Ambrozia Cafe offers the atmosphere for one to unwind while catering to functions.

Ribs@Oasis offers diners this experience by ordering fresh meat every day and its Grilled Pork Loin Chop will be the best choice to savour the natural flavour and texture.

The meat is marinaded with just a pinch of basic condiments upon order, then pan-fried, and served with a dash of homemade apple sauce that tempts with a hint of fruity sweetness.

The portion is so generous that it may intimate the small eaters, but the meat is a treat as it is tender and succulent, enhanced with streaks of fat that moisten the texture further.

“Back to the basics, that’s what we try to do and that echoes to our philosophy of a neighbourhood restaurant,” said general manager W.L. Kim.

Living up to its family-oriented concept, the decor is kept simple and comfortable with warm-coloured wooden furniture set against red walls and soothing lighting. Glass panels give the restaurant a touch of elegance.

After you are done with eating, take the stairs to the first floor where the Ambrozia Cafe is located, sink your body into the rattan couch and let your hair down with a selection of beverages amid soft music.

Creamy and smoky: Pan Fried Butter Fish is prepared with fish from Vietnam appreciated for its firm texture.

Ribs@Oasis first opened its door in July last year. The menu offers various ways to savour meat but one dish, Grilled Belly Oriental Pork Ribs, is the backbone of the menu.

The dish is served in a generous portion with a chunk of rib perched atop creamy mashed potato. Its brown gravy is sweet, smooth and rich in flavours that blend well with the ribs’ smoky aroma.

Those who just cannot get enough of pork can opt for the Ultimate Reversed Pork Burger, an unusual burger that has a bun sandwiched in between two patties. The restaurant also serves seafood dishes. The Seafood Olio Pasta is recommended for those who hanker for sea treasures, such as clam, mussel and prawn, pleasantly paired with light flavoured spaghetti to bring out the freshness.

Pan Fried Butter Fish, prepared with catches imported from Vietnam, will please those in favour of a creamy and buttery flavour.

To complement the meaty affair, Kim has concocted exotic beverages such as the Rib’s Delight, Rib’slicious and Ribstropic that not only lure with the vivid colours, but also their unconventional flavours.

Ribs@Oasis
Lot 1-1, BU4
Oasis Complex
1 Changkat Bandar Utama
47800 Bandar Utama
Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03-77298921
Business hours: 11am - 3pm (lunch) and 6pm to 10pm (dinner), opens daily.

Italian flavour with local flair

2009-03-24T11:55:00.003+08:00

By ESTHER CHANDRAN

CHEF Ron Chew’s unwavering interest in cooking is an inherited passion as the head chef of Italian on Sixth remembers precious moments of cutting vegetables and washing pots at his father’s restaurant during his childhood.

This eventually led to him opening a burger and hot dog stand at the age of 19.

Good response to his home-made burgers from return customers, saw him taking his interest a step further when he joined the Shangri-la Hotel Kuala Lumpur.

Perfect start: The Anti Pasti Platter is an interesting combination.

He soon learnt to adjust to the fast-paced kitchen and has not looked back since.

“My career is a tribute to my father, Chew Sing Heng, who is in his 90s. In his prime, he was one of the best Hailam cooks around as he made tasty dim sum and char siew and his restaurant was popular with the locals,” Chew said proudly of his father who owned The Swiss Restaurant in Taiping decades ago.

The hotel experience paved the way for him to work at several local outlets including Chinoz and Citron before embarking on a culinary adventure in Italy where he would immerse himself in Italian cuisine.

In Tuscany, Chew worked 14 hours a day and learnt classic Italian dishes.

“Cooking is a passion and I have gained invaluable experience during my travels abroad.

“I was adventurous and willing to learn and, in life, if you want to learn you have to be humble to gain knowledge,” said Chew, who is the youngest in his family.

Cooking does run in the family because he has a brother who works at the butchery in Shangri-la, an older brother who is a chef at Eastin Hotel and a sister who is a pastry chef.

After 18 months of living, breathing, eating and speaking Italian, it was time to translate his culinary lessons and tantalise the taste buds of gourmands.

Sheer dedication to his profession is obvious as the chef is on his toes from the moment he steps into Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.

In addition to cooking and supervising his staff, Chew also dons his other hat as the outlet’s public relations officer, going from table to table to welcome and introduce customers to the myriad of culinary pleasures available.

He exudes confidence when dishing up fabulous Italian food and his intimacy with the food gives him the leverage to be creative.

“I am open to criticism as the feedback I receive helps me improve,” he said.

His flair with food was shown in the Anti Pasti Platter which was handsomely decked with Prosciutto Con Melone (air-flown Parma ham with rock melon and cracked pepper), Cupa Sante (scallops and bacon with balsamic glaze), Mushroom on Ciabatta with chardonnay cream and Empress Snapper with tropical tartar sauce.

Yummy treat: The lamb cutlets are prepared well with an tasty glaze to top it off.

We marvelled at the rich and tasty Crema Di Funghi Di Bosco prepared with a fusion of mushrooms but the liveliness of the Aglio E Olio Con Fruiti Di Mare sealed our faith in Chew’s cooking abilities.

Extra virgin olive oil coats each strand of the aromatic pasta with hints of garlic and chili padi emerging in the dish.

A sprinkling of roasted garlic is a neat trick, further enhancing the presentation and taste of the dish.

The manager said the inclusion of the bird’s eye chilli added a subtle twist that was enjoyed even by foreign diners.

The delivery of the carbonara laden with bacon was another winner as the thick sauce gently clung to the pasta.

Two pastas down and there was room for no more but Chew would not let us leave without tasting the Grigliata Agnello Con Salsa Mentha (chargrilled lamb cutlets with foie gras, mint and honey glaze) and Pan fried Pork Chops in Mushroom Sauce and Sage.

After satisfying our palates, Lumayan Mewah Sdn Bhd marketing manager Damian Lee whipped up Fragrance (an aromatic drink with lavender, green apple syrup, rum and lemon juice) and Bubble Yum (bubble gum syrup, Bailey’s and Triple Sec) readying us for the sweets of the night.

A sight to behold were the artistically designed Strawberry Coated with Belgian Chocolate, Panacotta and Caramelised Banana.

ITALIAN ON SIXTH (non-halal), LOT 6.12, Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2144 2992) Business hours: noon to 10pm, daily.

Eating Out

2009-03-24T11:30:00.008+08:00

Sirloin Flavours

BE tempted by the succulent flavours of sirloin in different cuts from Australia and the US. Mark your calendars as Prime, Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur serves sirloin in a gastronomic affair this month. Meat enthusiasts are in for a treat with the Wagyu Sirloin with Butter Poached Chili Rosemary Fingerling Potato, Oven Dried Brisket Bacon Mille-Feuille with Potato Celery Mousseline, finished with a drizzle of Sarawak cracked peppercorn sauce. The Sirloin Sampler platter (with wagyu sirloin, Black Angus 200-day sirloin and pasture-fed sirloin) is another suggestion. The promotion is available for dinner until March 31. For reservations, call 03-2263 7434 or email dining.lmkl@lemeridien.com.

Peking Duck

THERE is no need to travel to Beijing for a taste of Peking duck. At Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s Xin Cuisine Chinese Restaurant, traditional Peking duck is the signature dish this month. The outlet’s Peking duck promotion has more to offer than just the duck-filled crepe delight as there is Stir Fried Sliced Duck Meat with Ginger Spring Onion, Double Boiled Soup Duck Bone with Preserved Vegetable, Wok Fried Rice with Diced Duck, Stir Fried Egg Noodles with Shredded Duck and Stir Fried Diced Duck Wrapped with Lettuce and more. The dishes are available for lunch and dinner at RM58++ per duck. For reservations, call 03-2144 2200 ext 2338 or 2144 8750.

Tea Treats

THE Lobby Lounge of Hotel Nikko Kuala Lumpur presents the opportunity for you to relax and indulge your tastebuds with the introduction of three afternoon tea sets - Local Afternoon, English Afternoon and Asian Afternoon. Available from Monday to Friday, from 2pm to 6pm, the Local Afternoon Tea serves delights like Cucur Udang with Chili Dip, Tauhu Sumbat, Golden Banana Fritters and Pulut Panggang. Apple Crumble Tart and Prune Spiral are some delightful finds on the English Afternoon Tea platter while the Asian Afternoon Tea offers Malaysian Durian Tempura, Thai Money Bag with Chili Dip, Vietnamese Spring Roll, China Egg Doughnut Roll with Sweet Sauce and plenty more priced at RM38++ per person. For reservations, call 03-2782 6168.

DRAGON-I RESTAURANT, Lot S313A, 2nd Floor, New Wing, One Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ (Tel: 03-7725 8822). Business Hrs: Weekdays (11am-10pm); Weekends & Public Hols (10.30am-10pm). Non-halal. Popular for minced meat dumplings known as siew long pau, caramel pork ribs, ma po taufu, chicken fillet and vegetarian dishes.

RED GINGER, 18G-M Medan Setia 2, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2095 3118). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (11.30am-3pm); dinner (6.30pm-10pm). Closed on Sun. Pork-free. A family-run business known for its good food, warm service and reasonable prices. Its cosy, laidback and unpretentious ambience make it the ideal venue for private functions. Red ginger plants line the front entrance. Small menu.

DEUTSCHES HAUS, 46 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2143 2268). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (noon-3pm); dinner (5pm-midnight). Non-halal. Serves authentic German cuisine with emphasis on sausages. Also stocks a wide range of excellent German beers. It has many speciality dishes.

LA GOURMET HOUSE, Lot G52, The Curve, Jalan PJU 7/3, Mutiara Damansara, PJ (Tel: 03-7725 4279). Business Hrs: Mon-Thurs (10am-10pm); Fri & Sat (10am-11pm). Halal. Special gourmet meals and speciality cakes are available daily for lunch and dinner. Gourmet merchandise like Dukka, herbs, spices, tea and coffee are also sold.

SENTIDOS TAPAS, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2145 3385). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Pork-free. Offers a relaxed atmosphere with a tantalising selection of hot and cold tapas. There is an extensive wine list and a range of imported beers.

LA COCINA & COPA DE VINO, 38 USJ 9/5P, UEP Subang Jaya (Tel: 03-8023 2395). Business Hrs: Restaurant, Mon-Sun, lunch (11am-3pm); dinner (6pm-midnight). Bar, Mon-Sat (5pm-1am). Halal. Indulge in a variety of authentic Spanish food in a comfortable and romantic environment. There is a wide selection of wines from Spain and all over the world. Salsa dance performances are on every Friday night.

MALAYAN AROMAS, Concourse Area, Ground Floor, City Square Centre, Jalan Tun Razak, KL (Tel: 03-2161 5094). Business Hrs: Daily (8am-10pm). Serves a good variety of quality local coffees especially blends with palm sugar. There is also an impressive selection of Malaysian favourites like Roti Malaya as well as Western and Italian dishes.

JOGOYA, T3, Relish Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2142 1268). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-2am). A Taiwanese chain specialising in brunch, lunch, dinner and supper buffets, priced at RM68++, RM78++ and RM88++ with a wide spread of seafood, Japanese, Western, Chinese and Indian dishes.

MUNAKATA JAPANESE RESTAU-RANT, Mezzanine Floor, Life Centre, 20, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL (Tel: 03-2166 7441). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (12.30-2.30pm); dinner (6.30pm-11pm). Pork-free. Serves authentic and premium sushi, teppanyaki, a la carte and seasonal dishes. Set lunch and dinner also available.

BASIL LEAF RESTAURANT, 35 Jalan Damai, off Jalan Tun Razak, KL (Tel: 03-2166 1689). Business Hrs: Tues-Sun, lunch (noon-2.30pm); dinner (6.30pm-10.30pm). Relax while you eat here, enjoying Thai and Indo-Chinese cuisine. Bungalow is divided into six sections, separately themed for value-added dining experience.

PANDAN LEAF RESTAURANT, Lot S28, 2nd Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Lebuh Bandar Utama, Bandar Utama Damansara, PJ (Tel: 03-7728 6078). Business Hrs: Daily (10am-10pm). Halal. Penang Nyonya fare using specially prepared spices.

THE SHIP, JALAN SULTAN ISMAIL, 40-1 & 40-2 Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL (Tel: 03-2141 8805) Business Hrs: Sun-Thurs (noon to midnight). Still a hit among locals and foreigners. Serves escargots, Chinatown Shark’s Fin with Crabmeat, steaks in 18 different styles. Wait staff dress according to rank like sailors on a ship.

TONY ROMA’S, LL1.43, Lower Level One, Sunway Pyramid Shopping Mall, Jalan PJS 11/15, Bandar Sunway, PJ (Tel: 03-7492 1188). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). The people at Tony Roma’s are passionate about their food, adhering to standards set by the Orlando training centre. Expect hefty portions and enjoy the selection of margaritas, wines, martinis and liqueur coffees.

RESTORAN PIZZA UNO, 18 Jalan Puteri 1/4, Bandar Puteri Puchong, Puchong. (Tel: 03-8062 2530). Business Hrs: Mon-Fri, lunch (noon to 4pm); dinner (6-11pm). Sat & Sun (noon to 11.30pm). This new outlet sports a cosy contemporary atmosphere for tapas and wines besides serving a wide range of pizzas, pastas and desserts.

VANSH, Lot 9, LGF, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2142 6162). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Pork-free. Run by the award-winning Rang Mahal outfit of Singapore. Highlights regional Indian favourites. Focuses on tawa and tandoori delicacies served in bite-sized portions.

RESTORAN KOTTARAM, F102 & 103, Block F, Phileo Damansara 1, 9 Jalan 16/11, PJ (Tel: 03-7955 1077). Business Hrs: Daily (9.30am-10.30pm). Halal. Heralds Kerala culture and cuisine, served according to royal fine dining protocol. The outlet is divided into five sections with individual purposes. One of its bestsellers is the Kottaram Briyani.

FUSION

GONBEI, T2, Relish Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2782 3801). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Halal. Uniquely Japanese, food, design and ambience-wise. It has a sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, robatayaki and tempura display cooking islands. Reputed to have the biggest collection of premium sake.

Going Bananas!

2009-03-24T11:17:00.006+08:00

By WINNIE YEOH

DID you know that the pisang nangka (jackfruit banana) tastes sourish when it is ripe? And that pisang susu (milk banana) is named as such because its shape is like a feeding bottle?

These were among the things that some 20 primary school children learnt at the ‘Going Bananas’ workshop organised by the Friends of the Penang Botanic Gardens Society at Botanika Outreach on Jalan Kebun Bunga, Penang, on Tuesday.

When asked what ‘Going Bananas’ meant, one of the children shouted merrily: “Like going into the banana,” which instantly drew smiles and warmed up the workshop.

Retired biology lecturer Dr Liew Kon Wui, 62, taught the children about the different types of bananas available in the country, the structure of the banana plant, as well as its different uses.

Dr Liew showing the various bananas available in the country.

He showed and dissected a banana plant to enable the children to better understand it.

“The tender part of the jantung or the floral bud of the plant is edible but usually doesn’t taste good,” he explained.

“It won’t taste good if the sap turns dark brown when it is cut in half,” he said.

Dr Liew also related a legend of the pisang udang (prawn banana) which has maroon-coloured skin.

“There was a prince in the olden days who fought and got badly injured in a war. He took refuge under a banana plant in the jungle and fainted.

“When he regained consciousness, he found out that his wounds were already treated and there was also a young lady tending to him.

Nur Nelisha, 10, learning to weave a rope using banana plant fibre.

“He later discovered that she was a spirit of the banana plant, after which, he returned to his palace. When he went back to the plant later, he found out that it was bearing bananas with maroon-coloured skin.

“Being grateful to the plant, he ordered his subjects to never eat the fruit or chop down the plant,” Dr Liew said, adding that this superstition was still prevalent among the Malay community who refrain from eating pisang udang.

On the workshop, he said it was an opportunity to provide exposure to the children on nature’s wonders.

“We want to get their hands dirty and let them experience what we used to do back in the days when we were small,” he added.

The children were later taught how to fold banana leaves into square moulds which are useful in kuih-making as well as weaving ropes using fibre from the plant.

They were also treated to banana shakes, fried banana fritters and banana chips.

T. Shivaani, nine, said she learnt valuable knowledge about the banana plant, adding that the workshop was more fun than she had expected.

Fried bananas anyone?

“I love bananas and this is really fun. I’m enjoying myself in the rope-making!” she said, barely concealing her glee.

The children were also taught to make their own art prints using banana stems.

The society will hold two more programmes for children this week.

They are Rainforest Walk (aged 8 and above) today and Seeds Safari tomorrow.

Both programmes will run from 9am to 10.30am.

For details and registration, call 04-2279915 between 8.30am and 4.30pm.

Archieve: Friday March 20, 2009

Chef Nulek Impresses With Her Knife-Wielding And Juggling Acts

2009-03-24T11:05:00.008+08:00

Eating Out
By PRIYA MENON

IT IS not every day that you get to see a knife-wielding and utensil-juggling female chef at work, so it was truly a pleasure to see chef Vareenaun Eakwat (chef Nulek to many) from Thailand in action at the Sagano Japanese restaurant in Renaissance Hotel recently.

The 28-year-old Nulek is from Nami, the famous teppanyaki restaurant in JW Marriot Hotel, Bangkok and she would be at Sagano until March 29.

Teppanyaki is a Japanese cooking style where the meal is prepared on a hot iron griddle by chefs, who make it interesting by displaying special skills using knives and other kitchen utensil during preparation.

Skillful: The talented chef Nulek.

According to Nulek she was the first female chef at Nami and she had to train very hard to master the teppanyaki cooking skills.

For Nulek, skills like throwing knives and juggling eggs are a great way to make the dining experience more memorable and enjoyable for the diners.

Nulek introduced a variety of teppanaki appetisers in conjunction with the hotel’s latest promotion that also featured two elaborate eight-course menu namely the Seafood combination and the Seafood and Beef combination.

Healthy meal: Fresh sauteed vegetables with butter.

Both combinations had the creamy miso soup, green salad with chilli and carrot dressing as well as the deep fried soft shell crab with spicy chilli and mango sauce.

Unlike other miso soups, which were clear and made with miso paste, dried fish stock and vegetables, Nulek added whipping cream to her miso for a richer texture.

The beef dishes came with Korean Miso sauce and the Thai sauce called Stabina while the seafood dishes were accompanied by the American sun dried tomatoes and the unique Japanese Spicy Mayonnaise sauce.

Creamy: The miso soup with whipped cream for a more richer texture.

The Seafood and Beef combination had two main dishes, one was the Paper Wrapped Salmon with two types of seafood sauce and the sauteed wagyu beef and mushroom with two types of original beef sauce.

According to Nulek, the salmon dish was a healthy dish especially for those on a diet.

For the seafood combination, diners could enjoy sauteed lobster with two types of nami seafood sauce, which were made of tomatoes and spicy mayonnaise sauce.

The other dish in the combination was the snow fish served with vegetables and same type of sauce.

Both dishes came with sauteed vegetables and fried rice with garlic and shibazuke (Japanese cucumbers).

Fresh: Green salad with chilli and carrot.

The highlight of Nulek’s cooking was the egg juggling act where she threw the egg in the air, let it fall and it neatly broke in half.

As always the best part of any meal is the dessert and Nulek made it more exciting with her fruit flambe with vanilla ice cream.

Made from seasonal fruits, vanilla ice cream and butter, the ingredients were sauteed on the hot iron griddle and set on fire before served with a fresh scoop of ice cream.

The Seafood and beef combination is priced at RM 228 ++ while the Seafood combination is priced at RM 288 ++ including service charge and service tax.

> SAGANO JAPANESE RESTAU-RANT, First floor, Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel. (Tel: 21622233). Business hours: noon to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 11.00pm daily.

Brewing That Perfect Cuppa

2009-03-24T10:39:00.000+08:00

Eating Out
By OH ING YEEN

IT all began with a cup of latte. Five years ago, web-designer Chung Yeh Chin was looking for new business opportunities to explore and was struck with the coffee-drinking culture after a cup of latte.

“I was looking for a new avenue as the web design business did not go well. Even though I was more a tea drinker than a coffee drinker, I liked the taste of the latte. When I saw the coffee syphon, I was fascinated with the mechanism and did some research, hence discovering a very interesting coffee scene.

Popular item: The Grilled Cajun Chicken is popular among Coffee Ritual’s patrons.

“It’s not only about the brew itself but its culture and history that I was fascinated with. Till now, I’m still looking up the Internet for info on coffee,” he said.

He then started the F&B business with his co-partner Hoh Ee Mei, who unlike him, is a coffee drinker.

Regarding the cafe’s name Coffee Ritual, he said: “The coffee-making process is like a ritual. There are certain steps to follow, miss one step and it will affect the taste.”

Adhering to the right methods is important in preparing the perfect cuppa and Chung proceeds with a technical explanation of how the syphon coffee maker functions.

“It keeps the water temperature just a few degrees below 100°C to retain the coffee aroma,” he said to sum up the mechanism.

Coffee Ritual has recently relocated from its original premises in Phileo Damansara to Section 14 in Petaling Jaya.

“The previous location was too confined to the office crowd. We hope this new location will be more accessible, especially for families,” he said.

The spacious interior exudes a relaxing and welcoming ambiance. There is also an alfresco dining place at the balcony for those who like to enjoy the breeze while sipping their favourite brew.

What sets it apart from others is that Coffee Ritual offers espresso-based coffee.

Simple yet wholesome: The flavourful Cream of Mushroom (front) makes a great comfort food. You can also opt for the Soup of the Day and the Tomato Soup is one of it.

“Normally, many of the cafes in Malaysia are Seattle-styled or American cafes. We offer Italian espressos instead,” he said.

Cappuccino is just one of the many espresso-based coffees in Coffee Ritual.

Coffee connoisseurs can try out the Single Origin Gourmet Coffee (RM6) variants such as Brazil Fancy Santos and Java Arabica Jampit.

“The single origins are rare and priced as premium coffee as it is not easy to preserve coffee due to its short shelf life. After it is roasted, it takes about two days for it to develop into full-body flavours and is best consumed within two to three weeks,” he said.

With its premium coffee, the cafe has attracted coffee aficionados and has recently hosted a coffee-lover gathering.

“We welcome coffee lovers, whether to get pointers on how to prepare the perfect cup of coffee or just to exchange coffee-related ideas,” Chung said.

Aside from the coffee, there are over 60 items on the menu for customers to choose from.

The Cream of Mushroom (RM7.40) served with was quite flavourful that it was finished in no time and the accompanying roll was not spared either. You can also opt for the Soup of the Day.

For main course, one of the choices is the Grilled Cajun Chicken (RM13.40) served with butter rice or baked potato and stir-fried vegetables.

As for gourmet sandwiches, The Black Pepper Chicken Sandwich (RM12.80) is one of the popular choices and diners can choose either the Foccacia or Ciabatta bread.

After a bite of the Turkey Toast Crêpe (RM8.80), it’s no wonder that it is a favourite among patrons when it comes to savoury crêpes. The combination of shredded turkey toast, mozzarella cheese, creamy sauce and stir-fried onions makes this a satisfying meal. As it may be quite filling for small eaters, you can opt to share it with a friend.

Alternatively, you can satisfy your sweet tooth and opt for sweet crêpes instead. The Crêpe with Mixed Fruits (RM8.20) was a simple yet satisfying dessert.

For desserts, choose from a variety of cakes offered. Hoh tries out new recipes from time to time and her latest is the Peach Cheesecake. While most cheese cakes are very filling, this proves to be a light dessert with its combination with the fragrant fruit.

“Actually some of our male patrons like to have cake to go with their coffee, too,” Chung said, proving that comfort food is for both genders.

Realising that Section 14 is a parking nightmare, Coffee Ritual offers an hour of free parking at the Section 14 multi-level parking complex for those who spend RM30 and above on a single receipt. All you have to do is present your original parking ticket when you pay your bill.

> COFFEE RITUAL, No. 35, Jalan 14/20, 46100 Petaling Jaya. (Tel:03-79561080, Website: www.gv.com.my, E-mail: info@coffeeritual.com) Business hours: 10.00am to 11.00pm (Monday-Saturday) and 9.00am to 10.00pm (Sunday and public holidays).

Seafood Well Done

2009-03-23T14:10:00.000+08:00

Story and photos by GRACE CHEN

Fresh and well-cooked food brings foodies to Sungai Pelek.

We found E.P. Hoon Restaurant by chance. Located just opposite the Sungai Pelek, Selangor, big market, it is a typical tai chow diner. Though there had been earlier calls for a place with a better decorative concept, a wiser member of the group reasoned that one goes to a restaurant because of the cooking, not to admire the decor. Besides, she reasoned, the best tasting food have a tendency to hide in non-descript places like these.

Looks can be deceiving: The calamari rings scored big taste wise.

Thus convinced, we settled on a dinner of steamed Tom Yam garoupa, sizzling Japanese tofu, deep fried sotong rings and fried oyster served on a hot plate.

It took 45 minutes before our food arrived as the place was running on full. Throughout the waiting period, there was plenty of time to observe what the other tables were having. One interesting dish that appeared was chicken gizzards stir-fried in green peas. Based on guesswork, the cook must have a method for tenderizing the innards as gizzard is well-known for its resilient character. Judging from how one veteran diner with dentures was relishing the gizzards and green peas, the cook must have done a good job!

When our orders arrived, the steamed garoupa in Tom Yam sauce was the first to be “attacked”. There was much anticipation for the fish as Sungai Pelek has a known reputation for fresh seafood. We were not disappointed as the white, firm flesh lived up to our expectations. The spicy tom yam gravy was a tongue tickler with hints of tamarind and chillies and served to bring out the flavours of the garoupa.

Addictive: The steamed garoupa in tom yam sauce

While the ladies’ fingers added a nice touch to the dish, the sticky ooze from this vegetable would later impart a slimy consistency to the gravy. This was a sure sign that the cook had not blanched the cut ladies’ fingers in hot water before putting it on the fish platter. No one minded this a bit as the gravy was so addictive.

The best part of the fish would come last as we sucked the jelly-textured skin of the fish from the bones. By this time, the gravy had soaked into the deepest recesses of the fish to impart its spicy, aromatic flavours.

The fried oyster did not fall short of expectations either. A generous dollop of oysters was served atop a lake of soft scrambled eggs on a hot plate. The eggs which had been lightly fried were further stirred as the oyster hot plate arrived.

The heat gently cooked the egg and oysters further and maintained the natural flavours within the hot plate. For those who like their oysters unhindered, ensure that you remind the cook not to mix them up in a starchy solution. From experience, timing is an essential point when you want to serve ‘oh chien’ this way. It has to come straight from the wok to the table. Any delays and the heat will steam the egg and cause the oysters to sink in a hard protein covering and rob them of their subtle flavours.

As for the fried calamari there were some who opined that the cook could have been more thorough with the battering process as there were huge gaps revealing the white flesh which reminded one of a tattered shirt. But where the batter had covered the flesh, it was crisp on the outside but tender within which made for very good eating.

The freshness of the calamari meat also made up for its tattered appearance. The thick, white rings of sotong also had a firm but pliable texture which indicated that it had been cooked with the right amount of heat and time length. Naturally, they were a hit with the children who twirled the rings around their fingers before popping them into their mouths.

Tasty tofu: The sizzling Japanese tofu.

A good gravy to soften the white rice for the children was found in the sizzling Japanese tofu (RM10). Made out of bone and vegetable stock, it was darkened with thick soya sauce and in it were bits of minced chicken, chopped black mushrooms, prawns and corn kernels.

The soft pieces of Japanese tofu, which had been deep fried before hand, soaked the gravy up through its outer skin and the result was a flavourful bite. It was also a delightful sensation to feel the tofu melting in one’s mouth.

From the looks of it, this humble restaurant seems to have quite an influential following. This is evident from the framed up photos of the owner Yap Chin Hee, 51, posing with a former member of parliament. Yap who has been helming the restaurant’s kitchen for eight years revealed that he had started life in house construction before trading his hammer for an apron.

E.P. Hoon Restaurant is located at Lot 532, Jalan Pasar, 43950, Sungai Pelek. Tel: 03-3141 2124 or 019-269 8879.

Great Indian Crepes

2009-03-23T13:55:00.000+08:00

By FARIDAH BEGUM

Thosai or dosas are a refreshing change from our usual staple of rice.

The recipe for making thosais or dosas has always been simple enough to remember – its just a matter of the ratio between the rice and the black lentils or ulunthu.

If you want a more sourish thosai, then the ration is 2 cups uncooked rice to one cup black lentils.

Getting it right: A flat, smooth griddle is a must when making thosai.

A tamer one is three cups of uncooked rice to one cup of lentils. The secret to a lighter and better thosai is of course, a handful of overnight rice into the mixture when you blend the ingredients together.

Have a flat, smooth griddle or a tawa pan, as most brands would call them or even use your frying pans or teppanyaki pans is all you need. It works, the thosai is not fussy.

For the health conscious, they insist on using the Indian gingelly oil, which emits a smell that may not go down well with the uninitiated but for the rest of us, your normal cooking oil or ghee works just fine.

Ensuring the pan is heated well is important if you don’t want to end up with unappetising and torn thosai. The pan must also be oiled generously at first to ensure the mixture does not stick.

Having had thosai for a better part of the writer’s life, makes it easy to spot good or well-made thosais or dosas and when it is a slip-shod job by restaurants.

Thosais, then come in many varieties and if you were to check it out online, you would be stumped by the fact that there are more than 20 varieties of thosais and every one of them is as good if not better than the ones you and I know of.

A favourite time and again, is the masala thosai, which is a filling meal in itself as the thosai comes with a spicy vegetable mix that is enclosed or wrapped within and eaten as it is or with just the coconut chutney, it is heavenly!

Then, if you want some bite, the rava thosai or semolina crepe is worth a try! It comes in a lacy-like circle and is padded with green chillies and slice onions and is definitely more filling than the ordinary thosai.

This is definitely sinful but a trick to reducing the extreme sourness of the thosai is definitely asking for a ghee thosai, where before the thosai is lifted from the griddle or pan, a dollop of ghee is put in the centre and left to melt and sink into the crepe.

It is a great way to enhance the taste of your thosai, honestly!

Other varieties of thosai consist of egg, where an egg is broken onto a cooking thosai and smeared over it. Then you have the onion thosai that consist of chopped onions, of course.

Thosai has also come a long way from being just an Indian crepe. (It has now been internationalised with cheese and now, there is even a thosai with Chinese noodles called Chow-chow dosa.)

Our Malaysian firm favourite right now, riding at the top is of course – the paper thosai, served often wrapped like Merlin’s hat with a sharp tip and it is one of the great moments when you can be a child and twirl your plate around as you tear off paper-thin pieces of this magically delicious hat.

Some of the best place to have thosai is of course your favourite Indian restaurant anywhere in the country, but there are many who will attest that only a handful are really good at this crepe.

One of the best in Kuala Lumpur is undoubtedly the vegetarian restaurant Lakhsmi Vilas in Leboh Ampang.

For years, their thosai have always come out soft and moist and remains so even after being packed for more than an hour. The other nice thing that this restaurant does is that it always wraps the crepe in a banana leave and when you unwrap the pack, it emits a nice, fragrant smell and the best part is that the thosai is still hot and tastes great.

Their best thosai is the masala thosai that has a delicious vegetable filling that can vary between cabbage and potatoes or on luckier days both with bits of carrot and onions. For indulgence request for naei masala thosai and it comes with a delicious dollop of melted ghee! Eaten simply with the coconut chutney, which is also good here, it is a fulfilling meal, whether for breakfast, lunch or even dinner!

Then, if you head out to Brickfields, you will find many Indian restaurants here and they too, try to outdo their competitors with their own brand of thosai and many of them are good like Naga’s and Gem’s.

The Lotus group of restaurants also make good thosais and they have a variety to choose from.

In Klang, the numerous Indian restaurants there, especially those that serve banana leaf meals, also do thosai and they too, do serve good ones.

While many would claim their favourite Indian restaurants serve the best, generally, most of the Indian food outlets along the west coast of the Peninsular actually serve very good thosai that is enjoyed by the multi-racial population in the country.

Fine Japanese Fare

2009-03-23T13:48:00.001+08:00

Compiled by RENITA CHE WAN

Akamomiji is the latest addition to Ipoh’s line-up of Japanese restaurants that made its small debut about a month ago.

The place is almost fully booked every evening, and prior reservations seem to be the norm, lest you decide to casually waltz in and capitalise on the furore or chaos that is surrounding almost all newly-opened outlets.

Ipoh is one of the states where quality and quantity of the food comes first while dining experience comes a close (or distant) second so although the service wasn’t excellent, the staff were rather friendly and approachable, topping up their cups of green tea every now and then.

Chicken Teriyaki Jyu

It has to be known that the owner of Akamomiji is from the management of Kizuna, and incidentally the restaurant is situated just a stone’s throw away from it.

Somehow, their orders got mixed up and they were served more dishes than they initially ordered. But being the hungry souls that they were, they relented and gobbled up everything that was put in front of them.

The appetisers of marinated seaweed, (Chuka Wakame) and marinated baby octopus (Chuka Idako) came in dainty portions, but served their functions as appetisers well.

The baby octopus on the other hand were crunchy to the bite, served on a bed of julienned cucumbers and it was refreshing.

Ninmiku Chahan (garlic fried rice).

“We were told by the staff that the fish are flown in from Japan every Tuesdays and Fridays and although it was a Sunday, the slices of fish remained fresh, sweet and succulent.

“Especially tempting was the crunchy roes. Every bite of it released squirts of juices and they are a far cry from Sushi King’s, believe me.”

They were then served with the Una Jyu (grilled eel with sweet teriyaki sauce on rice) but it was only after they have stuffed themselves with it that they realized the dish wasn’t in their order list.

“Oh what the heck, the thick, juicy and well-marinated slabs of eel were perfectly grilled, with its juice retained and none of the cold, fishy taste. Thumbs up to the unagi with complementary miso soup!”

The chicken, succulent and tender, was simply served with strips of seaweed and a sprinkling of sesame seeds, which came with a bowl of miso soup. This motormouth from Ipoh wrote that this meal is sufficient to be a complete meal, or perhaps a light lunch.

The garlic fried rice was good; fluffy and fragrant from the garlic cloves, perfect as an ala carte order to complement your salads, grilled meats, hot pots or even the kushiyaki.

“On the whole, the meal was above-average, with rather reasonable prices to boot. But of course we didn’t go crazy with the orders and did not order any sashimi, given the fact that it’s two days too late to sample their freshly flown supplies from Japan.”

Akamomiji Japanese Restaurant is located at 36-38, Medan Ipoh 1E, Medan Ipoh Bistari, 31400 Ipoh, and the number to call is 05-546 8368.

Busy Spot

2009-03-23T13:30:00.000+08:00

Old Klang Road has always been the centre of activity in the Klang Valley and here are some of its charms.

Hua May Artistic Engineering Works

Located at the 3rd mile, this place specialises in rock and reinforced glass fibre concrete sculptures. This company has been in business for 20 years and is responsible for the giant eagle at Dataran Lang in Langkawi.

Wai Kong Cane Furniture

Watch cane furniture m ade before your very eyes. The craftsmen,who have no qualms a bout labelling thems elves “ancient relics”, will not hesitate to let you know that cane weaving is a dying art. As such nothing will make them prouder than when a visitor takes the time to watch them a t work.

Central Supermarket

Touted for its market place on the ground floor, this place offers the best bargains for clothes, clocks and all manner of knick knacks. This place is also ideal for those who prefer the comforts of a dry place to get their fruits, vege tables and meat.

Penang Pasembur

Right by the side of the Esso Mobil station at 4¼ mile is a pasembur that has withstood two generations. The mobile unit used to be stationed outside Plaza Prima but had to move to their present location as parking is more convenient for th e customers.

Jalan Kelang Lama Market

This market place boasts the largest variety of foodstuff from dried goods to the freshest of meats and vegetables. Yes, you are allowed to bargain! Take note that it pays to make friends with the traders as this friendly lot is guaranteed to bring a smile to dreary mornings.

Quah Kee Hong Fruit Wholesaler

For cheaper prices on watermelons, honeydews, pineapples and papayas, this wholesaler promises to make your fruity craving an affordable one too. Located right opposite the market, the shop has been here for the past 10 years.

Jalan Mega Mendung

A place where you can find boutiques, restaurants, banking and all the necessary peripherals for everyday living. Also look out for Low Pia Lim, the coconut water man who has been here for 20 years.

3rd Mile Square

This commerce centre is in a class of its own with new restaurants and office spaces. There are plenty of lots still available for those who are looking for new business premises.

Plaza OUG (Parkson and Citrus Park Food Emporium)

This department store’s presence offers shoppers a quiet place to indulge in a bit of retail therapy minus the hassles of traffic jams and parking. This shopping complex also boasts a large food emporium which houses well-known names like Secret Recipe, Ah Cheng La ksa and McDonald’s.

Pearl Point

Shopping, hotel and residential apartments in one big block. For Sundays, attractions include a flea market and dim sum buffets. As it is quite close to the Bukit Jalil Stadium, it is not uncommon to find entire basket ball teams and sports officials thronging at the hotel.

Meal With A View

2009-03-23T13:21:00.000+08:00

Story and photos by STEPHEN NG

The ultimate meal consists of good food and mesmerising sights.

When in Langkawi, at least one seafood meal is a must. Fresh, tasty and reasonably priced, it is no wonder that most visitors make a beeline for the numerous seafood outlets on here.

One such place that attracts patrons is the Pulau-Pulau Steamboat and Seafood Restaurant, fronting the yachts from all over the world at the Perdana Quay, which has an extensive menu that would satisfy the palate of both locals and foreigners.

According to the restaurant manager, Chin Siew Ling, between July and February, it is the Arab Season. “We have many of our guests from the Middle East, who enjoy our seafood here,” she said.

Great view: Enjoy your seafood meal with this view in the background.

The 44-year-old, formerly from Alor Star, said in the months of November and December, the Russians love to travel to this part of the world, and their favourite is the Tiger Prawns. “I had a guest, a gentleman from Russia, who ordered eight Tiger Prawns, weighing about 350 grammes each,” she said. “It is amazing to see him eat every one of them, and leave the restaurant feeling satisfied.”

The English tourists also like their Tiger Prawns big because they have never seen such big prawns before in their own country.

Tiger Prawns, one of the main signature dishes here, are being served as either grilled, cooked with curry leaves, Thai style, as deep-fried garlic or served with Tom Yam soup.

In charge: Manager Chin Siew Ling is at the helm of the restaurant

“Because the Tiger Prawns are fresh, they taste better with butter and garlic, dipped in Thai sauce. Fresh prawns have a special sweetness to it,” said Chin, who started the business together with her business partner, Ng Kim Pong.

Ng has been living in Langkawi since 1988, while Chin came to Langkawi in 1995. The 48-year-old Ng from Perlis was formerly in the stainless steel business but decided that he wanted to turn the wheel of fortune a second time.

Added Chin: “The tourists from China return to Langkawi throughout the whole year. Their favourite is the seafood steamboat, which comes with prawns, squids, noodles, mushroom, cuttlefish, vegetables, chicken, squid balls, eggs, fish fillets, beancurd and flower crabs. Guests can choose either Tom Yam or Chicken soup.

“Westerners and Chinese tourists usually choose chicken soup, but some of them are beginning to acquire the taste for Tom Yam soup.”

Local tourists, however, still prefer to try out the seafood that they serve here, said Chin. One of the other signature dishes is the Steamed Soya Fish, where the guests can choose anything from Sea Bass, Red Snapper to the Grouper.

Under the stars: Have your meal al fresco with swaying palms and lanterns

“Our Tiger Grouper, steamed with garlic, ginger, mushroom, chilli padi (bird’s eye chillies), and cooked with soya sauce, is a favourite dish with local tourists,” Chin added.

The restaurant which was opened on July 28, 2004 is frequented by Malaysia’s solo sailor, Datuk Azhar Mansor, who works at the Perdana Quay, which can accommodate up to 120 yachts at any one time. Several other celebrities such as Siti Norhaliza have also patronised the restaurant.

The restaurant has a halal certification, and at any one time, it can accommodate up to 200 pax. Open seven days a week from 1pm till 11pm, Pulau-Pulau Restaurant & Steamboat is located No G-12, Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park, Pantai Kok, 07000 Langkawi. Tel: 04-959 4089.

Steaming Out In The Highlands

2009-03-23T13:12:00.000+08:00

Story and photos by GRACE CHEN

To keep warm in Cameron Highlands, a steamboat dinner may just be the answer

The one point that Swee Pooi Choy wanted to push across was “honesty”.

United: (Left) A family that cooks together, stays together, insisted Swee Pooi Choy (far left) of Mayflower Restaurant. He is joined by his elder son, Kuan Wei, wife, Yoon Ah Ying, 62, (standing) and Kuan Hoe (with glasses).

To prove it, the 64-year-old owner of a steamboat restaurant who had just transferred his 21-year-old business to his two sons, would point to the signboard at his restaurant front.

On it was a complete listing of all the 21 items that will come with the hot pot order, specifically stating that there would also be nine different types of vegetables included.

“This way, my diners will know what they are going to get. As a diner myself, I am not too fond of playing guessing games when it comes to my food. This way, there is no doubt as to what we will serve,” said Swee.

Also written clearly on the sign were the prices. Let’s not play hide and seek with this, was what Swee, a former taxi driver and durian planter from Tapah, seemed to imply.

Sooner or later, the diner will have to find out anyway. RM13 per pax if you’re opting for only chicken broth, RM15 if you fancy some spicy tom yam soup and for a combo of both, it’s RM14. They also have a herbal porridge made of fragrant rice, dong kwai, red dates, boxthorne fruit and a host of other Chinese herbs. This will set you back RM16 per head.

But then Swee also reminded that honesty will only go so far.

The crucial test will still go back to the taste.

Now, in Cameron Highlands where Swee’s restaurant is located, steamboat meals are a dime a dozen and competition is great.

The question of who’s the best would be inadvertently left to the myriad of personal preferences among the varying human palate.

In Swee’s case, I would describe his steamboat meal as one slurping session that the diner would find hard to put an end to!

It did not take long to figure out that it all boiled down to the soup.

The chicken stock, which appeared bland at first, was well-infused and the tom yam base had a lovely spiciness about it which did not irritate the throat or cause one’s eyes to water.

The flavour was further improved with the addition of meat and vegetables, and the longer the fire burned, the sweeter the soup became.

To achieve a stock like this could only mean that the cook, Swee Kuan Wei, had spent many hours overlooking its concoction.

Kuan Wei, Swee’s elder son, has been watching his father brew the restaurant’s stock since his school days. Today, the 35-year-old has taken sole charge of the kitchen while his younger brother, Kuan Hoe oversees the front of the house.

Kuan Wei also proudly introduced his herbal porridge hot pot which augured extremely well with this professed rice congee lover.

Still, one should note that the porridge, which is very light, has a distinct herbaceous quality to it and some may find it slightly bitter. But if one is used to imbibing Chinese herbal soups, this would be no problem at all.

Like the soups, the porridge also matured very well over time.

At the end part, the porridge took a soupy but thick, starchy quality which was just as well for easy digestion.

Herein, one is advised to take into consideration the boiling time of items that will go into a steam boat.

Meat like chicken and beef should not be left in a hot pot for too long as this will make them tough and chewy.

Fish and prawns should be taken out as soon as they are cooked so that one can still taste the sweetness of seafood. The same goes for the noodles lest one wants to end up with mulchy, overcooked strands of starch.

As for the eggs, they should go in last. Cooking one’s meat on the spot and doing it together serves to remind one of camaraderie whether it be with one’s family or friends.

And therein, let’s not forget this parting advice from our good friend, Swee. “A family who cooks together, stays together”.

Mayflower Restaurant is at 77A, Persiaran Camelli 4, 3900, Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands. Tel: 05-491 1793 or 05-491 4793.

Top Local Picks

2009-03-23T12:53:00.000+08:00

Street Food
Favourites from The Star Street Food Guide

Malaysians simply love street food and are constantly debating which outlet serves better Hokkien-style noodles or whether this Mamak stall or that restaurant serves better Roti Canai.

Penang
LAM MEE

LENG NIA COFFEE SHOP

Taman Lip Sin (Off Jalan Sungai Dua), Bayan Baru. Open 7.30am-12pm. Closed fortnightly on Thursdays.

The Lam Mee stall in Leng Nia coffeeshop uses rice sticks instead of the usual beehoon.

Lam Mee is also known as “birthday noodles” because it is often served during birthdays in Peranakan households.

Interestingly, the omelette is often coloured pink as a sign of auspicious tidings.

Crab meat is also part of the ensemble, though many hawkers find it too expensive to be included in their daily offerings.

Lam Mee seller Yeang Suan Heoh gets around this snag by substituting Japanese crabsticks for crab meat; the red markings on the crabsticks serve the double purpose of symbolising good tidings.

She also uses thick rice noodles instead of the usual yellow noodles or beehoon.

The noodles are served in a soup made with chicken stock, mushrooms, oyster sauce, light soy sauce, rock sugar, salt and seasoning powder; stir in a dollop of sambal for more kick.

Klang
GLUTINOUS RICE BALLS

STALL NEXT TO ECONSAVE

Jalan Raja Muda Musa, Port Klang. Open 8pm-11.30pm. Closed on Sundays.

The glutinous rice balls at this stall are served in either a ginger or palm sugar syrup.

Sandwiched between two wantan mee stalls, this stall has been selling glutinous rice balls (tong yuen) for the past 20 years.

The tong yuen (RM1 a bowl) comes plain or with crushed peanut filling, in either ginger or palm sugar syrup.

The plain version comes with two ping pong-sized balls.

They also sell an almost-forgotten Hainanese cake called bek tak buak (50 sen each), a plain boiled dumpling, eaten with grated coconut cooked with palm sugar, or ground peanuts and sugar.

Kluang
KLUANG TRAIN STATION CANTEEN

Jalan Station. Open 7am-12pm, 2-6pm. Closed on Thursdays.

There is something romantic about train stations, even tiny ones. And a train station with good coffee to make the waiting pleasant is a sure formula for love.

The fame of the Kluang Train Station Canteen has been carried far and wide, and many have been bowled over by its charms.

The wooden building with wired windows is the scene of much activity, as waiters dart in and out of the kitchen to meet the orders.

Lim Jit Chiang, 34, is the thirdgeneration owner of Kluang Rail Coffee shop.

Opened in the 1940s, the canteen offers simple fare - coffee, toast, curry puffs and nasi lemak bungkus - with one major difference: the bread and buns are toasted over a charcoal fire.

The runny kaya for the toast is made three times a week and the TV brand coffee powder is supplied by a local dealer. Jack LIm Jit Chew is from the third generation of his family to take charge of this remarkable canteen.

If you want to see harmonious Malaysian life in all its glory, this is the spot to head for - people of all races and walks of life sit side-by-side, trading gossip and stories over a cuppa or two.

Lim also provides food for thought on a long journey; he has a white board where he pens his “quote of the day” every other day.

Must-have Breads

2009-03-23T12:39:00.000+08:00

Street Food
Favourites from The Star Street Food Guide

JOHOR BARU
BREADS AND CAKES

KEDAI ROTI & KEK HIAP JOO

13, Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, Johor Baru, Open 8am-6pm. Closed on Sundays (Baking starts after 12.30pm)

IF you have only a few hours to spend in J.B., make this one of your stops. For folks caught in the fast lane, this old-world bakery is a window to another way of life.

The over 80-year-old bakery was started by the late patriarch Lim Joo Ban. The bread is still made the same way he did it when he arrived from Hainan Island in 1928, although the business is now run by his children and grandchildren.

A huge woodfire oven dominates the small shop, the walls blackened by years of smoke. Here, tradition is written in stone: the writing in soot is baked into the red brick of the kiln. Regulars know when the breads will be out of the oven and start queueing up 10 minutes before baking is done.

Many have been enjoying the breads and cakes here since they were children.

The bakery is famous for its banana cake. Soft and moist with the intoxicating perfume of bananas, the melt-in-your-mouth cake is one of the best around.

Also available are French loaves and sandwich bread. All breads and cakes are sold directly from their shop.

The products must be consumed within three days of purchase because no preservatives are used.

KANGAR
NASI KARI INDONESIA

EMBASSY COFFEE SHOP

53 Jln Jubli Perak, Kangar. Open 10.30am-2pm. Days off not fixed.

MOST locals are familiar with this stall, and they all have one piece of advice: go early!

There’s always a large crowd, and many come in to tapau.

Most of the home-cooked dishes on offer are spiced up with chillies. Try the pork cooked in a thick curry – it’s quite exceptional.

A must-eat is the salted fish with onions in a tamarind-based gravy – tangy, salty and slightly sour.

The duck – similar to the Nyonya dish, itek sioh – is another good eat. The meat comes off the bone quite easily and there is a nice flavour of coriander in the dish.

A slightly sweet prawn sambal is also good.

SUBANG JAYA
PAN MEE

RESTORAN LIAN HENG

22, Jln SS 19/6, Subang Jaya. Open 7.30am-3pm. Closed on Sundays & public holidays.

THE demand for Madam Lam’s pan mee is so great that she has resorted to issuing queue numbers! Get a number from the metal ring hung at the stall, put in your order and find a seat. Expect to wait at least 20 minutes.

The noodles are made from flour, water and eggs. Instead of passing the fresh dough through a machine, Madam Lam prefers to tear the dough into pieces by hand – handmade pan mee has a better bite than that made by machine.

The pan mee is cooked in a stock made by boiling dried ikan bilis. Vegetables (kau ki choi) and pork slices are added before the cooking is completed. Available dry or in soup, the noodles are topped with pre-cooked minced pork and crispy deep-fried ikan bilis.

Old Favourites

2009-03-23T12:26:00.000+08:00

Street Food
Favourites from The Star Street

Alor Setar
NASI KANDAR

KEDAI MAKANAN & MINUMAN KIM BEE CHEW

8, Jalan Tunku Ibrahim. Open 6.30am-2.30pm. Days off not fixed.

The original kandar complete with aluminium pot – a museum-worthy artifact – positioned at the front of the shop tells you that they have been in business for a long time. Lukman Hakim carries on the nasi kandar business started by his father, who used to ply his trade on foot, with the kandar slung on a pole across his shoulders.

There are about 20 types of dishes available daily, with items such as daging masak kicap, ayam masak merah and squid sambal. The hati masak kicap (beef liver in dark soy sauce) is very tender, with a slightly sweet gravy. The spicy squid is slightly chewy and the ayam masak merah is a winner with its sweet, spicy gravy and succulent flesh.

The ghee rice served here is very fluffy and aromatic. It is topped with a medley of gravies and makes for a hearty meal.

SS22, Damansara Jaya
CLAYPOT CHICKEN RICE

RESTORAN BUSY CORNER

83, Jalan SS22/11, Damansara Jaya. Open 12-2pm, 5-9pm. Closed on Thursdays.

IT’S more commonly known as “the claypot chicken rice near KDU (Kolej Damansara Utama)”, but you will find more than that here. There is also black pepper chicken rice, Thai sauce chicken rice, spicy fish rice, prawn rice and fermented bean sauce chicken rice – all cooked in claypots. The normal claypot chicken rice is quite delicious but the other items provide nice alternatives. There are also vegetables (yau choy) and soups to go with your pot of rice. Expect to wait at least 15 minutes especially during peak hours such as lunchtime and weekends.

Johor Baru
CURRY LAKSA

WW LAKSA HOUSE

36-A, Jalan Kolam Air. Open 7.30am-3pm. Closed on Tuesdays.

MORE famously known as the “Water Works Laksa”, this local favourite has humble beginnings from a makeshift stall nearby. It’s run by a mother-and-daughter team.

Served with Singapore beehoon (a fatter type of rice vermicelli) the curry laksa has a nice home-cooked taste.

The soup is not too thick, so the coconut cream does not overwhelm.

While it can’t be described as spectacular, it is a very pleasant, easy-to-like laksa with fresh ingredients like fish balls, cockles, fried wantan skin and bean curd puffs. It is also available in clear soup (ch’ng thong).

Fish Head Beehoon Worth The Search

2009-03-19T14:00:00.000+08:00

Food Trail
By SAM CHEONG

BEFORE I kick off this week’s find, I would like to apologise for a small error in my story on the Wah Cheong coffee shop in Section 17 Petaling Jaya.

In the story, I mentioned ‘condensed’ milk as a main ingredient in the gravy of the yee thau mai (fish-head beehoon). The correct item for this should be ‘evaporated milk’.

Unique: Fish head noodles with evaporated milk.

Soo Ewe Jin, one of my bosses, pointed this out. “Eh Sam ah! I follow your trail lah and when I read about the yee thau mai, you mentioned condensed milk, my wife and I had a good laugh,” he said.

All right, I hope that clarified things a little bit, and while we are on the subject of yee thau mai, Peter Hoe, my colleague had got back to me on the much talked about makan place in Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur.

But before I proceed, I would like to give a shout out to blogger pegasus (http://pegasuskl.wordpress.com) who emailed me about the same makan place.

After checking out this blogger’s awesome site, I would say that the bual bual kosong blog is one of the most interesting food blogs I’ve ever come across.

Okay, back to Peter Hoe - my buddy came up to me and told me that he couldn’t handle the 15 seconds of fame and that he had received plenty of phone calls to get directions to the said place in Taman Desa.

“Aiyah Sam! My phone didn’t stop ringing lah. What have you done?”, he said. Well, Hoe had certainly felt the pressure and invited me to join him for a quick fix at the yee thau mai joint.

“Meet me at the lobby and we go for a fast one!,” he said with a slap on my shoulder. Hoe and I go back a long way since The Star was based at Section 13 in Petaling Jaya.

After hearing his stories on travel and adventure back in the early 90s, I jumped at the chance to grab a fast lunch with this living legend.

Our drive from Menara Star in Section 16 took about 15 minutes. We ended up at one corner in Taman Desa and to me, this is an entirely obscure landscape.

The search ends here: Woo Pin fish head noodles in Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur, deserves a repeat visit.

The place in question was Woo Pin fish head noodles. But if you are a first-timer here, you will never find the place because their name was not printed on a signboard.

Instead, the outlet is situated in a steamboat restaurant at a corner lot in the first row of shoplots at Jalan 2 109F. A surefire tell-tale sign here is the crowd. The shop opens from 7.20am to 2.30pm and that’s all they need to bring in the day’s earnings.

Well, believe it or not, we thought we got there early but by noon, the place was already crowded and people just kept coming.

“Ah, here, you can order the clear soup without evaporated milk. I like it even better with some fresh fish slices.

“If you want to get the most out of it, you can add the yee wat (fish paste) and yee peen (fish slice). I like my yee thau mai in its clear broth,” explained Hoe.

Well, for starters, a bowl of fish head beehoon costs RM6.50. I was quick on the draw when a Myanmar worker handed out the bill.

It was an honour for me to eat with sifu Hoe and indeed a pleasure to savour Taman Desa’s most electrifying yee thau mai.

So, how did this place fare? On a scale of 1 to 10, I would rate it at 6.5. Pricing wise, this makan place charges slightly higher than most of the stalls I had visited.

On taste, I would say that the gravy (mine came with evaporated milk) was not as creamy as I had anticipated, nevertheless, its smooth flavour made up for the shortcoming.

For ingredients, you can choose to have fresh fish head and slices (order before 11am) or the usual deep fried morsels.

As far as the portion was concerned, Woo Pin is generous enough to pack my bowl of noodles but, too bad the waiter got my order wrong. Well, I guess I’ll have to make a repeat visit to taste other variants of the yee thau mai.

While we were eating, Hoe pointed out that the outlet’s owner, a middle aged Chinese guy, looked rather harassed and was frowning all the time.

Maybe it was the pressure to get orders delivered on time. “Ha, lou sai, hou mah!” (Boss, how are you), Hoe gestured. All I saw, was a frown on the owner’s face. How strange.

His good looks aside, I would say that searching for this yee thau mai place is an adventure by itself. If you have a vehicle-mounted GPS receiver, Woo Pin fish head noodles is located at: Lat 03 05 49, Long 101 41 10.

Before I clock off, I would also like to thank reader Adrian Chong who emailed me and gave me the lowdown on the best yee thau mai in Kuala Lumpur and perhaps in the Klang Valley. Where is this place? Well, tune in to find out in the next: “Samo’s great yee thau mai discovery”.

Vegetarian Fare That Appeals

2009-03-10T15:49:00.001+08:00

By YIP YOKE TENG

MOCK meat was created to make vegetarian cuisine appealing and acceptable to more people, especially those who find it difficult to do without meat. It was a good move both ethically and environmentally.

However, as mock meat is usually made of flour with dashes of colouring and flavouring, it does not find favour with the health-conscious. High consumption is certainly not recommended.

Palate teaser: The Golden Dry Curry Abalone Mushroom with Brinjal debunks the myth that vegetarian dishes are bland.

This concern led three partners, who were in the building material industry, to set up Vegipai. Although the vegetarian fare served at the outlet contains no mock meat, it will appeal even to non-vegetarians with its careful selection and generous use of natural ingredients.

The proprietors also wish to promote vegetarian cuisine as an element of modern lifestyle, and to this end, they spent four months researching how this might be achieved.

Thus, the restaurant is designed to cater not just for the lunch and dinner crowd, but also for those who want to chat with friends, surf the Internet or even read a book over a cuppa in a comfortable atmosphere.

The concept starts with the decor. The spacious interior is coloured grey and white, with cushions in cream and pink on the bench and counter to lend a soft touch.

Timber flooring, decorative tree trunks and a flowering frangipani reflect the outlet’s environment-friendly principles.

The combination of colours and materials creates a cosy, creative and contemporary atmosphere.

“We are happy to learn that about 50% of our customers are non-vegetarians,” said Mak Tak Wah, who is one of the partners.

“We hope we can popularise vegetarian cuisine as a healthy alternative (to the normal diet) which will contribute to environmental conservation. It would be a blessing for us if we could do this,” he added.

Creamy and appetising: Whole Grain Mustard Penny has a pleasant tangy, creamy flavour that will leave a lasting impression.

The trio spent much time on finalising the menu, which offers local, Chinese and Western delicacies. Apart from brainstorming with two vegetarian chefs, they read extensively on the nutritional properties of various ingredients to create new healthy dishes.

“Seaweed, lemon grass and mushroom, for example, are nutritious and delicious ingredients but they have not been fully explored,” said Cansy Lam, another partner. “In fact, we learnt a lot of new things, too.”

She said more than 90% of the 60-plus dishes on the menu contained no mock meat, flavouring or colouring. Mock meat is used only as the binding agent when it is inevitable, such as wanton stuffing.

The steak and pate are made of soy or mushroom. The Mushroom Steak is a treat with its pleasantly springy texture and subtle natural sweetness, while the burgers are popular among children.

“The restaurant has no religious overtones and the menu has been well received by its customers, regardless of race and religion, Lam said.

The Longevity Pot is a treasure trove of mushrooms, including shiitake, superior, bear’s head, button and enoki, boiled with herbs. It tastes like Bak Kut Teh sans the meatiness.

The Whole Grain Mustard Penny, one of the newest additions, is a good choice for those who like a surprise. Whole grain mustard is a relatively alien ingredient on the local food scene, and it enhances the cabonara sauce significantly. The seeds impart a subtle tang when they burst in the mouth, while bits of celery add crunch to the creamy delight.

Those who prefer more robust flavours will find the likes of Golden Dry Curry Abalone Mushroom with Brinjal a delight.

Done kam heong style, this dish has a heady curry aroma that will tickle your taste buds, but even more impressive, the abalone mushroom has a taste and texture very similar to meat with a bit of fat – crunchy on the outside and tender inside.

Concentration of flavours: A hearty bowl of Nyonya Laksa prepared with generous use of natural ingredients.

According to Lam, this effect can only be achieved with precise control of heat and timing during the frying process.

Another recommended item for those with a preference for strong flavours is the Nyonya Laksa, with its generous use of lemon grass and torch ginger flower (bunga kantan), among others.

The restaurant does not neglect seasoned vegetarians, who can choose from a good range of dishes with clean and light flavours.

Health drinks and sweet soups are available to complement the array of food.

The restaurant will soon introduce its pastry selection to enhance its appeal as a lifestyle vegetarian cafe.

VEGEPAI, 37A, Jalan Desa Bakti, Taman Desa, Off Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-7982 8184). Business hours: 11am to 10pm, daily.

Tasty Roast Pork In Salak South Garden

2008-08-14T17:19:00.001+08:00

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG

WHAT made me go back to Salak South Garden? Well, one reason being the decades-old coffee shops and stalls offering good food.

The other was a special invitation from my makan kaki that I couldn’t refuse.

Two decades and still going strong: Tian Hong coffee shop has the best char siew in the entire neighbourhood.

The eating pal in question was Lawrence Leong who runs a business in the area and the man had been giving me plenty of feedback on the good eateries in Salak South Garden – particularly two coffee shops offering roast duck and char siew in Jalan Hang Tuah 2 and Jalan Tuanku 2.

For starters, I checked out ‘Chicky and Ducky’ roaster that offers ‘siew ngap thui fan’ (roasted duck thigh rice). The stall is located at the Tim Won coffee shop and is owned by a couple.

One of the guys known as Ah Kit said the roasted pork and duck were the speciality and recommended the duck thigh cooked using the family recipe : a special brown sauce.

At RM7.50 per plate, I would say that the taste and flavour of the roasted meat was acceptable. My buddy Leong said the best part of the duck was the neck.

”Wah! You serious ah?” I asked.

“Well, you see, roasted duck connoisseurs in Hong Kong would take it with its fat removed. So, it’s the skin that is crunchy and sweet tasting,” he explained.

For me, the fattest part of this particular bird is the neck and it’s the duck thigh or breast that are the choice morsels when it comes to savouring roasted duck.

”Eh, keep it light ah! We are going to check out another joint,” said Leong. I spoke to one of the stall owners at the coffee shop who mistook me for a civil servant.

Tasty offering: Tong San’s stir-fried prawn noodles.

So, in order not to blow my cover, I told the trader that I was a field researcher for the Inter-national Society for Siew Ngap Studies (ISSNS) and was at the eatery on a census-taking mission.

”Wah! Like that also can ah?” said the confused stall owner. I told him that I made up the ISSNS story and got a slap on my shoulder as a friendly gesture from the man.

From roast duck, the trail continued to Jalan Tuanku 2, which is about a five minutes’ walk from Tim Won coffee shop. Leong pointed out a double-storey shop lot with a crowd queuing outside its premises.

It was noon and people were already packing the eatery. Now, this felt as if I was transported into another world. I could see roast chicken, siew yuk and char siew hung on a rack with workers busy chopping away roast meat and scooping rice for their customers.

Here, we made our way to a small table at the rear section of the shop. I observed the interior, which reminded me of shop lots built in the early 70s.

A decent fare: Duck thigh rice at Tim Won coffee shop.

”Ah, Chinese coffee shops are not interested in ambience and decor lah. It’s the quality of their food that matters,” Leong elaborated.

The place was a real dump and the sour expression of the lady running the show said a lot about her PR skills but this didn’t deter customers from crowding the restaurant.

Service here was prompt as our char siew rice arrived minutes after we placed an order. And I must say that the Tian Hong coffee shop has the best roast pork in the entire neighbourhood.

Their quality could rival that of Yoke Woo Hin and Overseas restaurant. At RM8 a plate, the owners of this coffee shop meant serious business. Good food don’t come cheap and if it is cheap, doesn’t mean it would be good.

Our second pit stop in the Salak South Garden food marathon proved to be a satisfying experience.

I asked the lady owner about the coffee shop’s background and she told me that she has been working there since her mid-20s.

”Aiyah! Now ah, I am already 60 years old lah. So, you can imagine how long we have been here,” she said with a laughter.

Well, just when I thought I was all ready to pack up and head back to the office, my eating pal told me it was not end of the journey yet.

As a matter of fact, Leong was just getting warmed up. We took a break at Nelson’s char koay teow stall where we were offered free top-up for our sugar cane juice.

There, Leong pointed out that there were several more good food outlets, but since the offering was similar in nature, he picked the best of the lot.

After a good 20-minute break, we proceeded to Tong San restaurant, a family owned food business that has been in the game for nearly three decades.

Inviting: At RM8 per plate, Tian Hong’s char siew rice mean serious business for roast pork lovers.

Here, the house dishes are fried prawn noodles and their fried rice. At RM48 a plate for the prawn noodles, the shop is perpetually packed during lunch hour.

To get a taste of at least six dishes, Leong called for reinforcement. His friends arrived 30 minutes later to fill the dining table.

And as previously indicated, we had ‘sang har meen’ (prawn noodles) and other noodle dishes.

The orders arrived promptly and I went on to savour the different variety of noodles.

For me, the prawn noodles fell short of my expectation. But the saving grace was Tong San’s fried rice. Now, this came as a big surprise because it was tasty and laden with choice ingredients like fish cake, fried anchovies and prawns.

The average price for a dish here is from RM5 to RM50. So, you have to make your choices carefully.

That said, my eating marathon ended with some yow char kuai (Chinese crullers) from Leong’s favourite stall at Jalan Hang Tuah.

Since there’s hardly any public transport to this part of Kuala Lumpur, I would suggest car-pooling.

To get there, you can use the New Pantai Expressway or the Besraya Highway.

Now, if you have a cell phone that is equipped with a Global Positioning System (GPS) navigator, key in the following coordinates: Tian Hong coffee shop - N 03 05” 025’, E 101 41” 773’ and Tong San restaurant - N 03 05’ 017”, E 101 41” 764’.

You can also use the GPS coordinates with Google Earth to find a Geographic Information System interfaced map of the locations provided.

So, have a good makan and happy hunting!

Hawker Food To Make My Day

2008-07-10T12:33:00.001+08:00

FOOD TRAIL WITH SAM CHEONG

When it comes to good and cheap food, Salak South Garden is a place that is begging to be discovered. I found out about this place from my friend Lawrence Leong, who owns a small business there.

Hard at work: Nelson at the wok.

But prior to my visit, the namesake was a place that gave me the impression that it was far and away. This stigma had remained in my head since my secondary school days when a schoolmate had told me that he lived in Salak South.

Each time he mentioned the place, my reaction was: “Wah! So far ah?” That was back in the 80s when the road transportation link was not as good as it is today.

Now, this idyllic residential area is like a worn-out human heart – full of inner and outer ring roads bypassing its surroundings.

To get there alone, you will need good navigational skills. I'll get to that part later. So, what is good here? Well, there are many thing; let me start with two makan places in a specific area within this suburban setting.

Cheap and good: Nelson's 'masterpiece' char koay teow is priced at RM3.50 per plate.

Okay, first – there is Fatty Mok's Hakka Yong Tau Foo shop off Jalan Hang Tuah 1. According to my friend Leong, this eatery is well known for its curry laksa, yong tau foo (stuffed tofu and vegetables) and chicken soup noodles.

So, with that in mind, I made the necessary arrangement to catch up with my makan-kaki (food buddy) at his office.

But, I was not so lucky because there was a production hiccup in his daily schedule. “Sam ah! Eh, you carry on lah, mention my name to the shop and they'll know what to do. I cannot join you lah, sorry ah!” he apologised.

With or without Leong, I was determined to check out Fatty Mok's curry laksa, so when I got there after parking my car at the road kerb, I wasted no time in telling a Myanmar worker there what I wanted.

Service was prompt and as my bowl of noodles was delivered, I went snapping away with my pocket camera. While I was at it, the diners around me watched my actions closely.

I caught wind of two guys behind me having a conversation on a lone diner having his laksa and snapping away with a camera.

Good laksa dish: Fatty Mok's curry laksa.

“Eh, mutt yeh yan ah?” (in Cantonese: who is this guy?) one of the patrons asked. It felt intrusive, but a man has to do what he has to do when it comes to getting the job done.

Now, Fatty Mok's curry laksa, in my humble opinion, fulfilled my criteria for a good laksa dish. Why? The gravy is creamy and tasty, there are enough cockles for you to lose count, plenty of taugeh (bean sprouts), fresh tau foo pok (fried bean curd) and – best of all – enough char chee phei (deep-fried pig's skin).

A small bowl costs about RM4 and my complete meal cost only RM5 with a chilled glass of soya bean milk thrown in. Besides curried noodles, the shop is also known for its ching thong meen (soup noodles).

I would recommend this if you want something less spicy and well, having tasted it in an earlier session, I would say that the soup noodles are as good as the laksa offered by the shop.

Moving on, there is another stall located nearby which came highly recommended by Leong. And, his instruction was simple: “Go across fei loh Mok's and look out for the chap fan stall.”

He was referring to Nelson's Char Koay Teow and to the untrained eye, it is not easy to locate this stall. Which was why I brought my hand-held Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver to lock-in the coordinates of the fried noodles stall.

Anyway, I made my way to the stall and the first thing I noticed was a hidden signboard that read: “Nelson's Char Koay Teow, open 8am–4pm, closed on Sundays.”

My immediate reaction was: “Yat teep kuai teow meen, tor-tor ngar choy” (a plate of koay teow and mee with plenty of bean sprouts).

Dumbfounded, the stall owner paused for a moment and then he went to work right away when the order was made. I watched as Nelson, the stall's operator, started stirring and clanging away at his wok.

It took less than five minutes for the noodles to be served on a plate lined with a piece of banana leaf. And, what I noticed was the hallmark of good fried noodles.

My father, who used to run a Hokkien mee stall at Lorong Bunus, off Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, had taught me the finer points of identifying a well-done dish.

He said the noodles should not be too flat; it must have body and flavour and it should not be soggy or over-fried. What I saw at Nelson's was a masterpiece.

The char koay teow was tasty and rich in flavour. There was a generous serving of cockles to go with it and to nail it in the head - plenty of chee yau char (pork rind) was added.

And, at a price of RM3.50, it was unbeatable. The extra plate of noodles on top of my curry laksa at Fatty Mok's made my day. Soon, I would join my colleague Stuart Michael in his Beginner's column as a prime candidate for weight loss and management. By the way, I congratulate Michael for raising funds to support a charity home.

Okay, back to Salak South Garden. To get there, take a drive on the New Pantai Expressway, take the right exit to Jalan Kuchai Lama and when you approach the Ajinomoto junction, turn left and head straight for about 800 metres.

Once you get to a traffic light junction, turn left and take the left exit towards a hill slope and you are there. For those who navigate with their automobile GPS receivers, key in the following coordinates: Longtitude: N 03 05” 062', Latitude E 101 41” 687' and your navigator will do the rest to get you there. Good luck and happy hunting!

Tasty Fare For Late Breakfast And Lunch

2008-06-26T11:13:00.001+08:00

FOOD TRAIL:BY SAM CHEONG

JALAN Maharajalela, which was formerly known as Birch Road, is the gateway to the Southern sector of Kuala Lumpur and is well known for its hawker fare, especially among night birds.

Despite being overshadowed by the city's development, many of the makan places that were found along this busy road many years ago are still intact.

Tasty: At 80 sen a piece, this is the standard fare at Jalan Maharajalela's yong tau foo stall.

This is also one of the few places at the fringe of the city centre where you can find double–storey colonial homes that were built with a chimney in the kitchen.

If you love post-war architecture, this is one place where you can go on a photographic safari. Here, you will find an architectural potpourri from at least five different eras.

During “soccer season” in the 70s and 80s, many Chinese fans would make a detour for supper at a Fukeen chow (Hokkien stir–fried noodles) stall and a coffee shop famous for its curry laksa.

These makan places do exist, but I want to concentrate on what you can find during daytime for breakfast – well, late breakfast – and lunch.

First, there is a yong tau foo (stuffed vegetables) stall managed by an elderly couple, located next to the Ho Wah Genting building off Jalan Maharajalela.

No-frills dining: A couple having their meal at the yong tau foo stall at Jalan Maharajalela.

This eatery has been around for at least three decades and is a popular haunt among office workers and yong tau foo lovers.

What sets it apart is the soup and dry gravy noodles that are served here to complement the stuffed vegetables. And, prices are pretty standard at 80 sen per piece.

So, a simple helping would set you back by RM4.50 (that is roughly five pieces of vegetables and a bowl of noodles) and RM1.20 for a glass of iced barley.

I was introduced to this stall by a friend who frequented a few fishing tackle stores around here. Apart from the yong tau foo stall, there is also a chicken rice and chap fan (Chinese economy rice) shop here that is sandwiched between two large trees.

Business is brisk here during lunch hour and the highly recommended offering here is the chicken rice. The best time to savour your lunch here is from 11am and if you are early, the best seats are on the house.

Moving on, there are some noteworthy makan places at Jalan Choo Cheng Kay, which runs parallel to Jalan Maharajalela.

But, before I get down to the juicy details, here are some interesting notes which I had gathered through the years. My buddy C.M. Khor, who was with a real estate company in the 80s, told me that the Choo Cheng Kay apartments had the largest balcony for high–rise living quarters of its class.

This was, of course, undisputed throughout the era. And, well, the apartment itself has a dark past. At its peak, the area was well known among the hamsap-lou (randy men) as a red light district.

Many of the apartments here were Kuala Lumpur's top brothels. But that is a thing of the past as frequent crackdowns by the authorities have driven vice activities away from this neighbourhood.

Wholesome: Braised pork ribs (front), and chicken and roast pork.

Okay, hamsap matters aside, let's get back on track with food. I was told by my friend Lee Hon Yew that the best mun phai kuat fan (braised pork ribs rice) could be found here.

And, it did not take me long to discover Wing Wong noodle shop, which is located in the middle row of a four–storey block of flats in Jalan Choo Cheng Kay.

It occupies the car porch area of two lots and there is a colourful signboard with an arrow pointing to the shop. So, what is good at this place?

For starters, the curry laksa and ching thong meen (soup noodles) came highly recommended. But the gist of it – is the braised pork ribs rice.

At RM5.50 a plate, I cannot complain. The serving is generous and it tastes pretty decent. The ribs are crunchy outside and soft in the centre.

And, since it is a stand–alone dish, you can also order Wing Wong's wat-kai (boiled chicken) as a side dish. This will set you back by RM4.50. I would not recommend the siew yuk (roast pork) because it was tough and quite salty.

Word has it that the noodles here are on par with the offering at the night coffee shop at Jalan Maharajalela, but that will have to be my late breakfast on a follow-up visit.

Other than Wing Wong, you can also check out a wantan mee stall located in a lane off Jalan Choo Cheng Kay, which is passable.

To get to Jalan Maharajalela, it is best that you take the monorail from Brickfields and get off at the Maharajalela station. The yong tau foo stall is roughly a five-minute walk, while Wing Wong is 10 minutes away from this location.

Top Favourites

2008-05-06T12:01:00.000+08:00

Text by FARIDAH BEGUM

The first anniversary of Sunday Metro is on May 6 and to celebrate, we reveal our top 10 foods for the year!

1. Egg Tart

Recommended:
Choy Bee Biscuit or Simee in Kampung Simee market, Ipoh;
Fung Wong Biscuits, Jalan Hang Lekir, KL;
Tong Kee Confectionary, Jalan Tun HS Lee, KL;
Nam Heong Restaurant, Old Town Ipoh;
Yuen Garden Dim Sum, Jalan Kenari, Bandar Puchong Jaya, Puchong, Selangor.

2. Ais Kacang

Recommended:
Swatow Lane Ice Kacang, Penang;
Mustafa Cendol, Jalan Teluk Sisek, Kuantan;
Men Kee Food Court, Jalan Tun Ismail, Seremban;
Berkeley Garden Restaurant, Berkeley Roundabout, Klang;
Penang Village, Putrajaya and Hartamas Shopping Centre, KL.

3. Banana Leaf Lunch

Recommended:
Krishna Curry House, Jalan P.P. Narayanan (formerly Jalan 222), Petaling Jaya;
Ashoka, Perak Stadium, Ipoh;
Passion of Kerala, Brown Garden, Gelugor, Penang;
Sri Paandi Restaurant, Jalan Cantek, Section 5, Petaling Jaya;
South Indian Aiyengar Restaurant, Pines Condominium, Brickfields, KL.

4. Nasi Kandar

Recommended:
Line Clear, Penang Road, George Town;
Nasi Kandar Pelita (Headquarters: Taman Chai Leng, Prai, Penang; 21 branches in Malaysia, Chennai, India, and Australia);
Nasi Kandar Kudu, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, KL;
Kampung Melayu Nasi Kandar, Jalan Kampung Melayu, Penang;
Restaurant J.S. Maju, Presint 9, Putrajaya.

5. Nasi Lemak

Recommended:
Zam Zam Nasi Lemak near St Michael’s school in Alor Star;
Nyonya Nasi Lemak at Jin Hoe Café, Jalan Cantonment, Penang;
Nasi Lemak Tanglin at Kompleks Makan Tanglin, Jalan Cendasari, Kuala Lumpur;
Lido Nasi Lemak, Klang, Selangor;
C.T. Garden (C.T. Roses) Nasi Lemak, Jalan Dewan Sultan Sulaiman, KL.

6. Tau Foo Fah

Recommended:
Pasar Malam Jalan Templer, Seremban;
Hawkers Centre, Taiping;
Funny Mountain Tau Foo Fah, Jalan Osbourne, Ipoh;
Small lane next to Wisma Hanifa, Jalan Masjid India, KL;
Stall on Petaling Street across Hong Leong Bank, KL.

7. Murtabak

Recommended:
Murtabak Mengkasar, Pekan, Pahang (also known as the royal murtabak);
Padang Tembak, Penang;
Hameediyah Restaurant, Campbell Street, Penang;
Bismillah Restaurant, Klang;
Fresh and frozen murtabak from sisters Nik Sri Emas & Nik Sah at Jalan Merbau and Banggol, Kota Baru, respectively.

8. Roti Canai

Recommended:
Sri Melur Jaya, SS19, Subang Jaya;
Restoran Miria, Kota Baru;
Zam-zam Kopitiam, Jalan Teluk Sisek, Kuantan;
Vello Villas, Penang Street, Penang;
Buharry Bistro, Asian Heritage Row, Jalan Doraisamy, KL.

9. Char Kway Teow

Recommended:
Pun Heong Coffee Stall at Tebing Tinggi, Jalan Bendahara, Ipoh;
Side of Tin Wah Coffee Shop in 4 1/4 Old Klang Road;
Hai Beng Coffee Shop (Old Man Lim), Jones Road, Pulau Tikus, Penang;
Kedai Goreng Kuey Teow Tong Shin, off Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL;
Kedai Kopi Sin Guat Keong, corner of Kimberley Street and Cintra Street, Penang.

10. Roti Bakar

Recommended:
Kluang Train Station Canteen, Kluang;
Kedai Kopi White House, Jalan Sultanah Zainab, Kota Baru;
Kedai Kopi Hai Peng, Kemaman;
Tong Nam Bee, Jalan Tun Razak, Raub;
Hainan Curry Rice, Bukit Tinggi, Klang;
Kedai Makanan Sun Sun, Jalan Merdeka, Ampang.

Delectable Italian Dishes

2008-05-06T11:52:00.000+08:00

Compiled by RENITA CHE WAN

They may not be super affordable for Blogger J but the yummy dishes make it value for money dining at Sassorosso.

Quattro Formaggi – 4 Cheese Pizza

BLOGGER J was pining for some really good Italian dishes and found a great Italian restaurant conveniently located just a stone’s throw away from the bustling KLCC area.

Situated in a cosy little bungalow on Lorong Yap Kwan Seng is a restaurant called Sassorosso and she finds the exterior very inviting, with patches of greenery around the low-key white building making it look very stylish without being “hoity-toity”.

“I particularly appreciated that they did not put the tables too closely together, making the space inside look more spacious than it actually was,” said J.

“Scanning the extensive menu, we felt spoilt for choice. There was a wide range of deliciously described meat, pastas, pizzas and seafood.

Panna Cotta

“As we were feeling especially greedy that night, we actually chose the Quattro Formaggi - 4 Cheese Pizza as our starter for the night.

“I really enjoyed this pizza – simple but satisfying and the crust was just nice ... slightly crispy but with some ‘bite’ to it and topped with a generous amount of fragrant cheese.

“Moving on to the mains, we tried the Veal Ossobucco, Duck Breast & Confit, Pasta Bigoli all’anitra and Stuffed Chicken.

“The clearcut ‘winners’ here were definitely the Veal Ossobucco and the Duck Breast.

“The Duck Breast and Confit was not particularly tender, but stood out with its smoky fragrant taste and totally non-existent ‘ducky’ flavour in the meat.

“As for the other two, they were not that nice. The Spaghetti Bigoli all’anitra was unusual but I found it a bit starchy due to the thickness of the spaghetti.

“The Stuffed Chicken was okay and so was the lemon butter sauce but the chicken was a bit too dry.

“Of course, we could not miss out on dessert. That night we had the Panna Cotta and Strawberry Millefeuille.

“The Panna Cotta was pretty good – the texture was not too dense, yet not too light and just right in terms of sweetness.

Chocolate Flan

“The highlight of the night for me was definitely the Chocolate Flan. I must admit, at first I thought it was too expensive but decided to order it anyway ... and thank goodness I did!

“I know this sort of dessert is pretty common nowadays but I found that Sassorosso does it really well.

“Overall, I really enjoyed our dinner there that night. It’s not like it’s super affordable but I felt it was good value for money considering the yummy taste of the nicer dishes. Just be a bit careful on what you order.

“I’m definitely going back to try out some of the other items on the menu!”

A Waffle Anytime

2008-05-06T11:40:00.000+08:00

By FARIDAH BEGUM

The waffle has come a long way from being a foreign food to a local favourite.

SLAP this crisp, soft biscuit with anything you have – peanut butter, kaya, chocolate, jam or just plain butter and you have a scrumptious snack that would just plain satisfy you.

Let’s go a step further. Put a scoop of your favourite ice cream to it, lace it with your favourite topping and what happens? You are simply in Cloud Nine!

The waffle is actually made of the same batter as that of pancakes. However, the waffle batter is toasted in a specially designed griddle that makes great square grids on it and once it is done, it is simply eased out and slathered with the ingredients of your choice.

When the craze for waffles started more than a decade ago, one of the most popular spots to have good waffles was at the A&W fast food outlets.

Simply scrumptious: Mainly an offering for dessert, the waffle is now also quite popular as breakfast fare.

Today, the waffle can be found in just about every food court or in small spaces within shopping complexes and even at departmental stores where the main strategy is to get a waffle to appease the children and husband and for the wife to sweetly walk her way into a grand sale!

The waffle has also become more localised as Malaysians shy away from sauces such as chocolate, strawberry, caramel with scoops of ice cream and generous blobs of whipped cream, to slightly less messier toppings of local favourites such as jam, kaya, peanut butter and the like.

Perhaps, it is not so much the taste but the ease of being able to eat it, walking or standing rather than having to sit and eat it with a fork and knife!

One of the first places to offer waffle more than a decade ago was the A&W chain of fast food restaurants with various delicious and appealing toppings along with quite reasonable prices, given the generous ice cream and fruit toppings that were available.

Mainly an offering for dessert, the waffle is now also quite popular as breakfast fare, as the frozen variety are available and the appliances that are used for making bread triangles filled with savoury fillings also now come equipped with waffle plates.

Waffle is actually available almost in every shopping mall in the country as the commercial machines are quite easy to haul from one place to another, given its size and the easy recipe for making the waffle biscuits.

At most hypermarket outlets, one of the first smells to attract you would be the final toasting of the waffle biscuit before it is smeared with the topping requested by a customer.

The only complaint would be that the waffle should actually be packed in environment-friendly packaging instead of plastic bags, and this is also because when it is placed in a plastic bag, the steam from the heat of the waffle will soften the biscuit and render it almost tasteless and soggy.

There is another craze for the crispy waffle biscuits, which are filled up with ice cream and this is an even more delicious morsel as it does not lose its crisp and is easy to eat, besides being sweet and a lot thicker than the soggy wafer cones that were and still are occasionally used to hold ice cream.

One of the best is at the New Zealand Natural ice cream stand in Bangsar Village in Kuala Lumpur, where the biscuits are just the right size and the ice cream, creamy and truly tasty!

It is not so much one ingredient or another but more the marriage between the waffle and ice cream that makes it truly unforgettable.

Sunday Metro hopes that readers would try out the recommended waffle sites by readers. For those who want to try this delicious snack at home and have a waffle griddle, simply use the basic pancake recipe and follow instructions on the appliances; add your favourite toppings and you are on your way to making your own waffles at home. Bon appetit!

SMS SENDERS’ PICK FOR BEST WAFFLE

> Best waffle at Latest Recipe Restaurant in Le Meridien Hotel Kuala Lumpur.

> Try the waffle at a & w in d lake gardens, seremban, it’s delicious with ice-cream topping. try u will love it.

> The best waffle that I had ever had is at a stall, located in front of KFC in Selayang Mall, Kepong, Selangor. From: Yin Peng

> Best waffle a&w pj. perfect crispy/soft balance. But should use real plates not paper!

> Try the ones in front of Bintang supermarket. It’s near the Motorola building. Yummilicious!

> Try Waffle Stop at Lot 10 Shopping Complex in Jalan Bukit Bintang

> Waffle World in 1 Utama is pretty good.

Legacy of Love

2008-05-06T11:26:00.000+08:00

PENANG
By HELEN ONG

The Hakka Connexion serves something one rarely comes across commercially: home-cooked Hakka food.

THE late Tan Sri Wong Pow Nee was a teacher of humble origins who rose to become the first Chief Minister of Penang from 1957 to 1969.

Of Hakka descent, he was apparently fiercely proud of his heritage, his family initially settling in Balik Pulau where there is a large community, and later moving to Bukit Mertajam.

Warm gesture: Peter Wong inviting you to try some home-cooked Hakka food.

In memory of his late father who died in 2002 at the ripe old age of 92, son Peter Wong Tet Phin, 49, has set up a gallery in Jalan Basawah, behind Giant Supermarket in Burmah Road, which showcases hundreds of photographs from his personal collection collected over the many years he was in office.

The small room is packed with framed pictures and other memorabilia, and a visit there is sure to bring back memories for many.

As entry to the gallery is free, Wong has also established a restaurant next door to help fund this worthwhile project.

The Hakka Connexion serves something one rarely comes across commercially: home-cooked Hakka food.

“Not many outlets serve this kind of food,” he explained.

His cook and partner, Carene Lim, 48, was one of the very few; she used to cook and serve this peasant-food-turned delicacy from a hawker stall in town.

As it is quite different from the sort of sam poey (dishes) we usually eat in Penang, which is more nyonya-based, the meal turned out to be an interesting sojourn into a culinary world of which I knew next to nothing about, despite having had an old Hakka flame decades ago whose family ate such food.

Lim did stress that as, traditionally, Hakka (Khek) people were immigrant visitors from northern China whose nomadic lifestyles meant that they absorbed influences from the various regions they finally settled in, the lines are blurred as to the origin of some dishes.

Mouth-watering: Hakka noodles with minced pork and soya sauce eaten with homemade chilli and garlic sauce.

“Much of Hakka cooking involves pork and fish,” she explained, so we started with one of their signature dishes from their small but popular and reasonably-priced menu, Tu Kar Chor (Vinegar Pork Trotters). Its sweet and sour dark gravy, seasoned with ginger, is very similar to the Hokkien version.

Another is “Lui Cha” or “Ham Cha” or even “Lei Cha” – it has different names, but basically the dish consists of individual portions of, in this case six different types of vegetables, some fried with dried shrimp, chai por (preserved vegetable) and nuts heaped around a helping of white or brown rice.

“Each state serves this dish differently,” according to Wong, but the important must-have ingredient is apparently the green tea soup, which comes in a separate bowl.

It is made with tea and Chinese herbs, and there is a strong overriding flavour of mint camphor, which is unusual but not unpleasant.

The dish is deemed quite healthy as the vegetables give it plenty of fibre, and rather like rojak, you mix everything up, including the soup, before tucking in. At RM6, it’s worth every sen.

I especially liked the spicy and flavoursome Hakka Noodles tossed in black soya sauce, which is a bit like broad, flat konloh meen, but served with a helping of savoury minced pork and eaten with a good spoonful of fried onion fritters and a tasty homemade chilli and garlic sauce.

Their Hakka Yong Taufu, also homemade, is popular too; taufu, bitter gourd or brinjal filled with a paste made with sai to fish, minced pork and a hint of kiam hu (salted fish), served in a light clear soup.

Proud showcase: The gallery dedicated to the memory of the late Tan Sri Wong Pow Nee.

Yet another new dish I was introduced to was the appropriately-named Suan Pan Zi, or Yam Abacus, little round discs made from a dough of yam and tapioca flour which is kneaded, shaped then cooked in boiling water before being stir-fried with minched pork, mushrooms and soya sauce.

Shaped like an abacus seed, they are soft, smooth and slightly springy, and the taste is an odd mix between sweet and savoury, although I’m told some places serve it dry without a sauce.

The opening of the restaurant cum gallery was deliberately timed to coincide not just with Malaysia’s 50th anniversary last year, but also the fifth anniversary of his patriotic father’s demise on Aug 31.

“When we first started, we had only four tables and a couple of dishes,” Wong said, “but even then we had a stream of people coming to eat here. We have added a few new dishes since.”

The Hakka Connexion, based in this modest little shophouse, is pleasant and clean, and interesting pictures of Hakka village roundhouses in clusters from central China line one wall. It can get quite packed at lunchtimes.

The gallery is open daily from 11am to 8.30pm. For details, e-mail them at littleshanghai _penang@yahoo.com or call Wong (016-483 2823).

Helen Ong is a self-confessed foodie who loves to hunt down the best of Penang.

In Sync With Apple Cultivation

2008-05-06T11:10:00.001+08:00

BA'KELALAN: The quaint Ba'Kelalan town at the northeast of Sarawak is today synonymous with apples, literally the fruit of one man's labour.

Tagal Paran, 75, affectionately known as Pak Tagal, is the man credited with cultivating apples in Ba'Kelalan, the only place in Malaysia were apple trees thrive.

Apples are known to survive in the temperate climate but the former pastor's inquisitiveness and determination made them thrive here.

Where others tried and failed, he persevered and triumphed.

In fact, Pak Tagal is confident that one day Ba'Kelalan will provide all the apples that Malaysia needs.

Fruit of his labour: Pak Tagal showing apples harvested in Kampung Buduk Nur recently.

Located 900m above sea level, the placid district has a cool atmosphere similar to New Zealand but apples are certainly not indigenous here.

The apples and the annual Apple Fiesta make Ba'Kelalan an enchanting destination for visitors.

Pak Tagal's younger brother Andrew Balang Paran brought 50 wild apple seedlings from Kalimantan in the 1960s after he saw locals there cultivating the fruit, and the rest is history.

However, only in the mid-1970s did he seriously venture into apple cultivation by taking over 300 apple trees planted on a trial basis on his land by agricultural authorities.

He realised that the trees were dying slowly and the authorities had limited knowhow on apple cultivation.

“I immediately set off for Batu Malang in Indonesia to learn more about apple cultivation and enlisted the services of two apple growers from there.

“I went to Indonesia three times to obtain new seedlings. It was all by trial and error,” he said, reminiscing on his foray into apple cultivation.

Pak Tagal's 3ha orchard in his village of Buduk Nur now has 2,000 apple trees, and he has four workers to assist him.

About one tonne of apples are produced in a season at his orchard, he said.

The apple trees bear fruit twice a year, normally during the middle and the end of the year.

The trees are pruned to simulate winter and the leaves are shed manually.

Warm welcome: Pak Tagal (third from left) posing with his wife Yammu (second from left) and son Mutang (left) in front of Apple Lodge at Kampung Buduk Nur in Ba'kelalan.

Soon, after the induced stimulus, the trees begin to bloom and bear fruit.

The apples are grown without pesticides and chemicals fertiliser.

The are varieties of apples grown here.

The Manalagi (Golden Delicious), has been renamed the Ba' Kelalan Apple. The fruit is greenish-yellow in colour and tastes sweet and crunchy. It is suitable for apple pie and fruit salads.

The Anna, which is red on top and yellow below, is sweet and sour and feels soft.

Rome Beauty is green with a reddish tinge at the bottom. It is similar in taste to Anna but feels crisp.

The Granny Smith is green and tastes sour. It's the apple for cooking and making cider.

The apples are marketed in Lawas and Miri but are in limited quantity.

Pak Tagal is confident that, if people in the nine villages in Ba'Kelalan start growing apples, Malaysia can export apples.

He pointed out that there were other temperate fruits like citrus, strawberries and grapes that could be grown here.

He is already experimenting with strawberries and some villagers are cultivating Arabica coffee.

Nonetheless, there is a serious setback.

Ba'Kelalan is virtually isolated as it is located in a remote area close to Kalimantan in Indonesia. Access to the outside world is only through airplanes and four-wheel-drive vehicles.

Thus, there is no way to export the apples in big quantities.

But Pak Tagal need not despair as plans are underway for a 170km road from the nearest town of Lawas at the foothills.

He is confident the road will pave the way for big companies to undertake apple cultivation on a big scale, and the apples can move up the value chain when processed into jam or cider.

With the road, Pak Tagal envisions Ba'Kelalan emerging as a leading producer of highland fruits and vegetables for Sarawak, like Cameron Highlands is to the Peninsula and Kundasang to Sabah.

Nevertheless, apples are not the main produce of Ba'Kelalan.

The fragrant Adan rice (Bario rice) is the main commodity of locals.

Yet, Pak Tagal believes that apples will remain as Ba'Kekalan's forte in wooing the tourists.

Ba'Kelalan receives up to 3,000 tourists annually, mostly Europeans, and the number is expected to increase.

The retired missionary with agriculture close to his heart is reaping the fruits of his labour.

The genial Pak Tagal and his wife Yamu Pengiran have seven children – Dr Judson, Mutang, Dina, Rangai, Gerit, Martha and Sandra.

Like the apples, Pak Tagal's family is the pride of Ba' Kelalan and its people.

His son, the late Dr Judson, was a former Ba'Kelalan assemblyman and state deputy minister. Another son, Mutang, a lawyer, is the former Member of Parliament for Bukit Mas.

The family operates the Apple Lodge homestay facility in Buduk Nur where visitors can get a taste of the customs and traditions of the Lun Bawang people.

The annual Apple Fiesta at the end of March is in the Sarawak Tourism calendar and visitors can see and savour the apples right at Pak Tagal's orchard.

This humble man has vowed to continue with his passion.

Pak Tagal does not seem to realise that his passion for cultivating apples has made him an icon and helped Ba'Kelalan gain prominence in tourism.

Apples in Ba'Kelalan are no myth, thanks to Pak Tagal.

– Bernama

The Canteena Serves A Combination Of Mexican And Malaysian Cuisine

2008-05-06T10:57:00.001+08:00

By CHRISTINA LOW

CARLOS Zubir has never stepped foot on Mexican soil, but that has never stopped him from opening a restaurant serving the country's specialities.

It all started when Carlos met an American friend who told him about how lovely Mexican food was. And the next day Carlos invited his friend to his house for a cookout session that left Carlos craving for more.

Authentic: The servers are dressed in cowboy hats, belts and boots to match the theme of the restaurant.

He soon harboured the hope to bring Mexican food to Malaysians as there were not many restaurants offering such cuisine back then.

Today, after 17 years in the industry, his restaurant Carlos Mexican Canteena is not only famous for its Fajitas and Nachos but also the local favourite teh tarik.

“Our guests come here at all times of the day and in the evenings for a cup of teh tarik.

“We have to prepare up to 60 barrels of the tea and it is always a sell out,” said manager John Fernandez.

The outlet brings together a combination of Mexican and Malaysian cuisines for the diners.

“We do not want to serve only Mexican food. We want to combine food of both countries under one roof,” said Fernandez, a style which was adopted when Carlos first open his outlet in 1991 in Jalan Tun Razak.

After moving to a few places, the restaurant now sits comfortably at the Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.

The interior of the restaurant is warmly lit with pictures of Red Indians and other Mexican icons gracing its walls.

Our treat: A Tequila girl pouring shots of the liquor directly into the mouth of a diner while he sits comfortably on a barber's chair.

Servers at the restaurant also dress up as cowboys complete with hats, boots and fake guns.

During our visit, Fernandez shared with us the Mexican “must-haves” on the menu which comprised tacos, nachos and fajitas.

Each appears to be in a medium portion, enough to be shared among friends as appetisers. The tacos were filled with shredded vegetables and grated cheese while the nachos were swarmed with a generous topping of melted cheese and salsa sauce.

As for the fajitas, enchiladas and burritos, patrons have a choice of either shredded chicken or beef to go with it.

Fernandez explained that enchiladas was oven grilled and burritos had to be deep-fried.

However, ingredients in both were similar and one would not be able to tell them apart except for trying it out themselves.

Other popular dishes include Braised Lamb Shank and Grilled Salmon. Also available are oysters which is said to be the cheapest in town, going at only RM2 per piece.

For desserts, guests can look forward to Chocolate Banana Buri-tos as well as Deep Fried Tortilla stuffed with Melted Chocolate Banana served with ice cream.

Inviting: The interior of the restaurant has a mix of warm colours coupled with pictures of Red Indians hung on walls.

The bar area of the restaurant also has a classic-looking barber's chair where it is specially used by patrons who are seeking to party the night away with tequila shots poured down their throat while they rest on the chair.

“We tell them, they need a haircut and the patrons know what that means.

“With every six shots of the liquor, the restaurant awards the guests with a t-shirt for their brave move,” said Fernandez.

It is the restaurant's treat to keep their guests entertained after a long day at work and to look ahead to a well deserved weekend.

CARLOS MEXICAN CANTEENA
Lot C3-03 The Pavilion, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2145 3996/5996)
Business Hours : Mon-Sun (10am-3am).

Sumptuous Culinary Journey Through India

2008-05-06T10:37:00.001+08:00

By GEETHA KRISHNAN

IT GOES without saying that Passage Thru India restaurants offer the rite of passage to the enjoyment of Indian food.

The menu is as diverse as the Indian sub-continent, with more than 150 items to tease, enthral and satiate the palate. As a plus point, the journey is not based on a culinary adventure alone.

Passage Thru India in Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, is a thematic restaurant offering insights into the different regions of India. Established 13 years ago, it passionately promotes the rich culture and art alongside food.

Boutique restaurant: The Passage Thru India Restaurant in Medan Damansara is different from its predecessor in Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.

The latest addition to the family-run franchise is the restaurant in Medan Damansara. It is built on a boutique concept bordering on fine dining, minus the razzmatazz of the pioneer restaurant in Jalan Tun Razak.

Manager Siva Selva, who is also the founder’s son, said they had waited four years for the prime location and finally opened for business nine months ago.

“It is well worth the wait because Medan Damansara offers the right demographics for our customer base, largely comprising diners from the middle class and above plus expatriates,” said Siva.

His father’s love for Indian artefacts resonates throughout the restaurant – the walls are decorated with Pichwai paintings in ornate frames and Rajasthan dolls perched on high shelves. Copper pots and beautifully-coloured parasols add to the charm.

“These finger paintings were also done by him because he was in the creative line for 30 years, but I haven’t inherited this skill,” Siva laughingly pointed out.

He is, however, adept in the kitchen.

The restaurant does not offer banana leaf meals but it has the Executive Set Lunch, priced from RM18++ to RM22++.

Breads galore: The Cocktail Basket with six types of naan.

The range of house specials for the review lived up to Passage Thru India’s tagline of “A Passage to Good Food”.

The Cocktail Basket of six mini-naan breads – consisting of Garlic Naan, Kashmiri Naan, Mint Naan, Butter Naan, Black Sesame Naan and White Sesame Naan – allowed us to savour the range of dips, chutneys and curries.

The breads are usually relished with Mint Chutney, Sweet Potato and Tomato Chutney and Spicy Tomato Chutney. Once we were done with the taste test, we moved on to the curries.

Exceptional among the lot was the PTI Masala Prawns, featuring succulent tiger prawns cooked with 18 variety of spices and masala. It was mildly spicy.

Siva also brought out the Murgh Tikka Butter that he said had overtaken the English dish of Fish and Chips in terms of popularity. The dish was a cornucopia of ingredients so it was hard to pin-point which captured our attention the most.

The Mutton Rogan Ghost, cooked in an almost similar manner, was also delicious. The Tandoori Chicken was familiar but the marinade was of a different grade and quality.

It was evident that a lot of time and effort had gone into preparing each dish.

In enlightening us on the Kashgar Kebab, Siva said the Persian-influenced dish called for the chicken to be marinated and sautéed before it was coated with breadcrumbs and a layer of egg and put into the clay oven for further cooking.

“The Navratna Kurma features nine types of nuts, vegetables and fruits cooked with kurma paste,” he added.

The offer of Indian desserts of Kulfi (ice cream with saffron and almonds) and Gulab Jamun (deep-fried flour balls in rose syrup) was happily accepted. The sugar overload was heavenly.

While sipping Indian Cappuccino made from coffee beans imported from Tamil Nadu, Siva divulged that Passage Thru India had recently won the Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards as one of the top 10 restaurants in Asia.

A fitting accolade.

PASSAGE THRU INDIA
No. 9, Jalan Setiapuspa, Medan Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2094 4360).
Business Hours: Daily, lunch (11.30am to 2.45pm) and dinner (6.30pm to 10.45pm).

The Flavours Of Europe

2008-05-02T10:03:00.001+08:00

By DEBBIE CHAN

Cavells Restaurant and Bar
18 Jalan 27/70A
Desa Sri Hartamas
Tel: 03-23000841
Business Hours: Daily, 12pm to 2am, Happy Hours, 6pm to 9pm.

After a year of serving the friendly Desa Sri Hartamas neighbourhood, Cavells is now ready to take on the bigger market with new offerings and an extensive wine selection from Henry Martin.

Rich ambience: The charming interior of the restaurant.

It is currently the only place in the area that offers tapas, defined by the chef as little bites of joy and pleasure.

Cavells carries quite a large array of tapas offerings from traditional Spanish recipes to dishes localised to suit the Malaysian palate. Interesting dishes to look out for include Mejilloues which is mussel grilled with a deliciously fragrant topping of parmesan cheese, garlic and parsley and the Deep Fried King Prawns in crispy batter served with Ajillo Mayo.

For a more spicy flavour, the Chilli Con Can is an interesting bet. It is a classic dish given a twist with diced tomato and cheese served with French baguette and topped with diced onions while the Pollo con Limont is another spicy dish of stir fried chicken with fresh herbs and spiced and served with lemons and chilli to give it an intense flavour.

Meat dishes include the Albondigas Con Salsa which is meatball coated with seven spices served in tomato sauce, Ropa Vieja, Argentinean beef blend with capsicums, chick peas and Spanish spices, Chochifrito which is lamb pan tossed and flavoured with lemon juice and paprika and Morcilla, a sausage dish enhanced with mint flavour.

Enticing: Chocifrito is pan tossed lamb with lemon juice and paprika.

For those who prefer to play it safe, the conventional tasting Skewered Chicken and Seafood Spring Roll is the right choice and they make good snacks, too with beer.

The cuisine is highly influenced by the heritage of the family that founded the restaurant. According to general manager of Cavells Aaron Carvalho, coming from Goa, which was ruled by the Portugese for over four hundred years, the family’s cooking is very much influenced by the flavours of Italy, Portugal, Spain, and America.

“With the food, instead of focusing on one style of cooking, we decided to combine the different flavours that Europe offers,” said Carvalho.

“Our head chef, B. Vijaian is very innovative in coming up with brand new ideas to spice up our menu,” he added.

Tempting: Half mussel grilled with a deliciously fragrant topping of parmesan cheese, garlic and parsley.

Along with the delectable dishes, Cavells offers a wide selection of wines and beers and it is also one of the few exclusive locations that carry Henry Martin wines including the unique Sparkling Shiraz.

Indulge In Flavours Of Indonesia With Hotel's Buffet Spread

2008-04-29T12:54:00.001+08:00

By SALINA KHALID

Trying it out: Guests at the launch.

THE words bakso, lotek and tek-tek may be foreign to most of us but these are some of the popular dishes of Indonesia.

Despite the names, the dishes share almost similar ingredients with some of our Malay-sian fare.

Bakso, a meatball soup, is one of the famous stall food available throughout the country.

Meanwhile, lotek is something like gado-gado, which is vegetable served with peanut sauce and tek-tek is basically fried noodle.

Crispy: An Indonesian version of murtabak.

So if you're hankering for any of these dishes, perhaps you should head to The Square at Novotel Hydro Majestic Kuala Lumpur that's promoting Indonesian fare through its Flavours of Indonesia buffet dinner.

A first for the hotel, the promotion was launched recently by the Indonesian embassy charge d’affairs Tatang Budie Utama Razak. Held in conjunction with the Visit Indonesia 2008, the buffet spread features a variety of dishes from various parts of the country.

Novotel's general manager Michel Farines was also present at the launch.

The tasty spread includes Rendang Jawa, Sambal Goreng Daging, Gepuk Daging, Ayam Krengseng, Ayam Panggang Rujak, Ikan Rica-Rica, Pepes Ikan and Cumi Ungkep. Apart from these you could also opt for Sop Buntut, Soto Ayam, Rawon Surabaya, Lotek Bogor, Bakso Malang and salad dishes for those who are health conscious.

Dessert lovers are in for a treat, too, with dadar gulung, es teler, klapert tart and pisang bakar keju.

The man behind the spread: Jajang preparing the Bakso at the launch.

The dishes were prepared by chef Jajang Mulyana, who was flown from Hotel Ibis Slipi, Jakarta, for the two-week promotion that ends on May 5.

The Flavours of Indonesia buffet dinner is priced at RM58++ per person.

The Square, Novotel Hydro Majestic Kuala Lumpur, 2 Jln Kia Peng, 50450 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03 2147 0888. Business Hours: 7pm to 10pm daily (dinner).

Beekeeping Course In Sabah

2007-11-06T00:55:00.000+08:00

By EMIN MADI

KOTA KINABALU: Siran Lasong remained cool and did not panic when he was suddenly surrounded by wild honeybees, known as pomosuon to the locals, that swarmed out from the man-made gelodog beehive.

Instead, he gently brushed off those still clinging to the honeycombs with his bare hands hoping to find the queen bee.

A few minutes later, Siran managed to find what he was looking for. He immediately trapped the queen bee before placing the insect inside a new beehive.

This method is known as translocating the bee colony from a gelodog into a new and permanent bee house, after which thousands of worker bees would be tempted to follow their queen.

Having done that, Siran not only completed his final day of practical training on beekeeping but also made himself a qualified beekeeper.

Some of his friends in other groups were unlucky because they apparently must have overdosed the bees with smoke, resulting in the queen bee abandoning its hideout before they could trap the insect.

Siran was among 33 participants at a two-day beekeeping course organised by the Sabah Ministry of Agriculture and Food Industry’s Rural Cooperative Development (KPD) at a bee farm in Simpang Mengayau, Kudat, recently.

Siran, a Sarawakian who resides in Lawas, traveled more than 400km to attend the first beekeeping course opened to the public.

The rest of the participants were from Keningau, Tambunan, Ranau, Sipitang, Papar, Kota Belud and Penampang.

“It’s very interesting and I am really glad to have attended the course. Maybe after this, I will start my own beekeeping business, but most important of all is that I am now able to recognise the natural honey, and in this case, the tropical type,” he said.

Participants were also taught how to identify the male and worker bees as well as on the insects’ life span and behaviour.

Earlier, the participants spent a day at KPD’s honey beekeeping centre at Sikuati, Kudat, where they were given extensive briefings on the basics of honey beekeeping, including how to find wild bee nests and trapping them with the gelodog or wooden box.

The two-day practical beekeeping course, conducted by two of KPD’s experienced beekeepers, Benjamin Subinon and Madillius Maradan, also provided an insight into various bee species found in Sabah and the types of bees suitable for commercial honey beekeeping.

The common bee species reared by KPD and its participating farmers is the apis cerana which produces a high amount of honey.

Other species found in Sabah are the apis dorsata or the Asian giant honeybee, apis korsevnikovi, a multicomb cavity nesting bee, apis andreniformis, a very small bee species and apis nuluensis.

KPD’s encouraging success in the honey beekeeping business has helped raise the living standards of hundreds of rural farmers in the state, particularly in northern Sabah.

Several farmers in Kudat, who keep hundreds of bee hives, are now earning around RM1,000 a month.

Beekeeping has been one of KPD’s many socio economic activities since its inception in 1976, especially in supporting the Government’s efforts to alleviate poverty in the state, particularly among the rural poor.

At present, the agency’s beekeeping business is concentrated in Sikuati, where KPD has its own bee farm with more than 700 hives and 200 gelodogs.

But vast land clearing in the district has depleted the forest of flowering trees, especially the fast-growing acacia mangium tree whose flower nectar is the bees’ favourite source of food, and is now threatening the beekeeping business in that area.

KPD has decided that it is time to move to other areas.

KPD general manager Datuk Basrun Datuk Mansor said the agency was looking for business partners in honey beekeeping among rural people in the Pantai Barat and Pedalaman districts.

They could become KPD’s contract farmers once they acquire the technical know-how in beekeeping, he said. – Bernama.

A Passion For Good Food

2007-11-02T17:19:00.000+08:00

By HELEN ONG

WHAT started as a passion and hobby for Jane Phung has now become a full-time occupation.

“I love cooking, and my husband used to bring friends home to eat, so we were always having parties,” the 44-year-old restaurateur said.

Luckily, for the rest of us who weren’t fortunate enough to have been invited to her home, Jane finally decided to put her considerable skills to even better use by starting a restaurant with her son Tomy Yeoh, 23.

Six months ago, the Summer Garden Food Bistro, located at the corner of Jalan Lembah Permai and Lorong Lembah Permai 3 in the Vale of Tempe, Tanjung Bungah, was opened to the public.

There is no signboard in front, but the place lives up to its name – the relaxing and serene garden abounds with greens all grown by Phung like bamboos and ferns.

Inside, a mesmerising water feature tinkles merrily and more green plants dotted about the place add to the cool, calm feel.

“There are a lot of restaurants out there, so we try doubly hard to make customers feel welcomed.

“The first thing we impress on our service staff is the importance of a smile,” explained Phung, herself beaming.

With four well-qualified chefs, each with his or her own speciality, strutting their stuff in the clean open kitchen, the menu offers a good spread of not just Western and Japanese food but also some local favourites.

Try the laksa (the lemak version was thick and yummy, although they also have the assam), Mee Jawa, personally made by Jane herself, and Nasi Lemak.

Bursting with flavour: The Lemak Laksa is thick and yummy.

The Sashimi Moriawase, a colourful platter of various cuts of fresh seafood eaten with wasabi and soya sauce, makes an excellent starter for a few people.

If you have a hearty appetite, try the Japanese Curry Set of rice and fried chicken (or fish), different to our local curries and quite tasty.

One of their most popular items is Lamb Shank served with Pasta. Another appealing choice is the Duck Breast with Black Cherry Sauce, but the Wagyu Beef Steak, although pricey, was really superb, tender and succulent.

Succulent: Duck Breast with Black Cherry Sauce.

There are also succulent large king prawns or lobster cooked in a variety of styles including Thermidor or baked in grilled cheese. If you can’t decide, their well-trained staff will be able to advise.

Indulge your sweet tooth and choose from a selection of six to ten freshly-baked cakes – all made by the talented lady – with such delicious-sounding names like Kahlua Moist, Tiramisu and Chocolate Cheese.

You will be hard-pushed to decide which one to go for. The Chocolate Cheese Cake was absolutely delightful, light but full of flavour, and went perfectly with one of their aromatic, full-bodied coffees.

Summer Garden is open from 11am to 10.30pm every day. For details, call 04-890 0977.

Good Food And Ambience Draw The Crowd

2007-11-02T17:05:00.000+08:00

By JADE CHAN

THE Tagline “Quality Food @ Reasonable Prices” – to offer good food, with consistent and authentic ingredients, at good value – is the secret to Pizza Uno’s success for the past 10 years.

Pizza Uno started its first outlet in USJ Subang in 1997, and now has two more outlets in Centrepoint, Bandar Utama and Bandar Puteri, Puchong, which was opened 10 months ago.

Uno@Puchong features a more contemporary layout, with a spacious and comfortable ambience.

French-Lebanese flavour: Baba Ghanouj and Hummus Dip is a platter of dips made from (bottom, left to right) char-grilled eggplants, chickpeas, tomato salsa and pesto and served with homemade grilled bread.

The three neighbourhood restaurants serve authentic European food, and are frequented by families for dinners and during weekends, and the office crowd during lunch.

“We have a central kitchen in USJ that caters to all three outlets, and we offer the same menu at all our restaurants,” said Pizza Uno partner Y.S. Mak.

“The central kitchen does the early stage of food preparation work, sources for ingredients, ensures portions are consistent at each outlet, and helps keep our costs down.

“When the founder Ng Yam Boon started the first restaurant, he was competing on price. The emphasis now is on dining and visual experience of the food, ambience and service.”

Ng, 55, takes care of the operations while Mak, 47, handles corporate planning.

Snack: Bacalao is typical Spanish tapas made from deep fried salted cod fish and potato.

Mak described themselves as “food obsessive”, and both frequently travel to Europe and Australia to follow dining trends and food concepts, as well as to improve their recipes.

“We started off emphasising our pizzas; now we offer a wider range of Mediterranean food like pastas and tapas, as well as Western-style desserts.”

Two popular starters are the Cream of Mushroom and Smoked Salmon Caesar Salad – a colourful concoction of soft-boiled egg, imported Romaine lettuce, Parmesan cheese flakes, smoked salmon, herbed crouton and homemade Caesar Salad dressing.

For a French-Lebanese flavour, try the Baba Ghanouj and Hummus Dip – a platter of dips made from char-grilled eggplants and chickpeas, as well as new additions pesto and tomato salsa, served with homemade grilled bread.

For pasta lovers: Aglio Olio with Grilled Prawns, served with a choice of spaghetti or homemade spiralli or fettucine.

Mak recommended the Bacalao, typical Spanish tapas made from deep fried salted cod fish and potato, for people who want a snack to enjoy their wine with.

“Diners love our Baked Whole Lamb Shank, which we braise in a gravy that has a lot of root vegetables like carrots and celery for a sweeter flavour. We cook it to a certain degree of tenderness so the meat 'falls off' the bone when the dish is served,” she said.

Pasta lovers can try the Aglio Olio with Grilled Prawns, which features a choice of pasta tossed with olive oil, chilli flakes, garlic, parsley and basil, and topped with freshly grilled prawns.

For dessert, there is the Traditional Bread and Butter Raisin Pudding served with crème anglaise and Lemon Panna Cotta, a classic Italian custard dish.

Pizza Uno’s regular menu carries a range of food to suit different palates and occasions.

It is complemented by ongoing and festive promotions, like Tuna Day, Black Mussels Special, Valentine’s Special and French Month Promotion.

“For the promotions, we create dishes that are reminiscent of the country or celebration, and play on the theme and season’s colours or ingredients.

“We also have weekly and fortnightly specials to give our regulars’ palate a fresh taste, and coming up with new recipes keep the central kitchen’s cooks on their toes,” said Mak.

Upcoming promotions include Thanksgiving and All-Saints’ Day, with dishes like Oriechetti with Beef Bacon Mushroom and Green Peas in Porcini Sauce, and Slow-Cooked Lamb Roast with Onion and Capsicum in Rich Mint Gravy served with Polenta Cakes.

Pizza Uno’s menu, which includes a list of wines to complement diners’ meals, is regularly updated to reflect new food trends, as well as popularity and customers’ feedback.

Mak added that there are plans to move the USJ Subang outlet to a nearby bigger premise and open a new outlet in TTDI next year.

RESTORAN PIZZA UNO, No. 18, Jalan Puteri 1/4, Bandar Puteri, Puchong. (Tel: 03-8062 2530).
Business hours: lunch, Mon-Sun, noon – 4pm; dinner, Sun-Thurs, 6pm-11pm; Fri-Sat, 6pm – midnight.
Pork free.

Doughnuts Worth The Wait

2007-11-02T00:04:00.000+08:00

By TAN KARR WEI

DO not be surprised if you see a long line of people outside a store in Pavillion Kuala Lumpur as they are just trying to get their fix of doughnuts from J.Co Donuts and Coffee.

Senior public relations officer Fazil Tahir said the queue was a norm, even on weekdays.

For the love of doughnuts: Customers queuing up outside the outlet.

“There’s roughly 10,000 transactions a day and each customer buys an average of half a dozen doughnuts,” he said, adding that the top three flavours were Glazzy (honey glazed), Alcappone (white Belgian chocolate and almonds), and a tie between Coco Loco (dark Belgian chocolate topping and filling) and Cheese Me Up (savoury New Zealand cheese topping).

He said some customers initially did not like the idea of having to wait in line for so long but when they tried the doughnuts, they understood why.

Saw Hooi Yee, 18, and her friend Lee Shin Lui, 16, saw the line of people when they walked past the outlet and were curious so they decided to try some.

“They had so many varieties and it all looked so nice that we ended up buying a dozen each,” said Saw.

Inside the seating area, Madeline Yap, 37, was seen sipping coffee at the outlet with her daughter Andree Lee, five .

“I bring my daughter here at least once a week because she loves the doughnuts. Her favourite is the Glazzy doughnut. The coffee here is very good too,” said Yap, who is from Kuala Lumpur.

Busy: J.Co Donuts and Coffee employees serving the many customers.

It was a first for Jess Tan, 31, who liked the doughnuts so much after she tried it that she willingly jumped into the queue again to buy more for her family.

Her daughter Joey Tan, five, happily munched on a Coco Loco doughnut while still holding on to her Game Boy with the other hand.

Journalist Radin Sri frequents J. Co about three times a week and her favourite flavours are Cheese Me Up, Tiramisu and Alcapone.

“The doughnuts are just so good. I always buy half a dozen for myself and I would also get orders from my colleagues if they know I’m coming here,” she said with a laugh.

If you see people in the shopping mall with light brown boxes in transparent plastic bags bearing the round J.Co logo, these are the customers who had successfully braved the line to get their favourite doughnuts.

Special Five-Step Process To Marinate Meats

2007-11-01T23:52:00.000+08:00

Photos by T.K. LIM

THOSE who like Korean food can head to Tongkun, which opened in Solaris Mont' Kiara in September. Tongkun is a popular restaurant chain in South Korea that is famed for its authentic barbecue food.

Tongkun, which means “big size” – a reference to the portions of meat – serves ethnic Korean meat dishes that are specially marinated with more than 27 spices.

A taste of Korea: Tongkun, the first Korean restaurant chain to open in Malaysia.

The meats undergo a special five-step marinating process that involves boiling, cooling to room temperature, marinating with spices, chilling and putting the final touches to the meats before they are served, to be barbecued at the table.

Choice beef: The Waygu Kkotdeungsim or Grilled Beef Rib Eye Roll and the Jin Galbi Sal or Beef Short Rib.

According to Wee Joon Ho, managing director of Dynasty Hallmark Sdn Bhd, the local franchisee of Tongkun, the restaurant is the first Korean restaurant chain in Malaysia.

“This restaurant is very famous in Korea,, where there are about 98 outlets. We brought the chain here because we wanted to give people here a taste of the real food and environment in our country,” he said, adding that they hoped to cater to the many foreigners in the vicinity of the outlet in addition to the local Chinese community.

The outlet is unpretentious, with a homely feel.

“We have given the place an organic and homely environment, hence the use of a lot of shades of green, which helps soften the environment,” Wee explained. The tables come with grill and steam absorber.

This is how it's done: Wee showing how the meat is grilled.

“We use premium meats like wagyu, which is considered the most tender, succulent and tastiest beef in the world. For our pork dishes, we use the highest quality local pork,” he said, adding that separate grilling equipment was used for the beef dishes to respect the sensitivities of patrons who did not eat pork.

“For our side dishes, there two sets of menu which we rotate every day,” Wee added. Among the side dishes are the popular kimchi and scrambled eggs.

Patrons can also look forward to complementing their meal with Korean ginseng tea, Soju (Korean liquor) and Bak Sek Ju, a ginseng liquor which is said to promote longevity because of the herbs, like ginseng, ginger, liquorice, yarrow, cinnamon, vine and arrowroot, that are infused into the wine.

Prices of the meal sets range from RM15 to RM150.

TONGKUN, No. 20, Block H, Jalan Solaris 5, Solaris Mont' Kiara,
Off Jalan Duta Kiara, Kuala Lumpur (tel: 03-6203 6528).
Business Hours: Daily, lunch (11am-3pm); dinner (5pm-10.30pm).
Closed on the third Wednes-day of each month.

Fresh Noodles Set To Be A Draw

2007-10-31T00:35:00.000+08:00

By K.W. MAK
Photos by RAYMOND OOI

THREE to four minutes, that is the time you have to consume the freshly made soba noodles when the waiters serve the dish to best savour the flavours.

That was the advice given by Kampachi at the Pavilion general manager Chiharu Yabe, who believes that it was about time Malaysians were formally introduced to the buckwheat noodles that the Japanese love so much.

Sushi specials: Executive chef Weng Leong Looi (left) and Lew working on sashimi during the launch.

The popularity of the noodles is due to its high nutritional value and its ability to lower cholesterol and is one of the main attractions at the newly launched restaurant that brings the name of Kampachi from Equatorial Kuala Lumpur.

“Most restaurants either have a machine preparing it or sell the pre-packed versions. We have it freshly made by hand daily,” Kampachi Pavilion managing director Donald Lim said.

Lim said the restaurant’s concept of having a show kitchen where a chef would be making the soba noodles daily would appeal to shoppers.

Unlike most shopping mall restaurants, Kampachi Pavilion sports a private room to cater to customers who wish some privacy.

Eye-catching: A look at the interior of Kampachi at the Pavillion.

As for the menu, the items listed are faster to prepare items to cater to shopping mall clientele who may not have as much time as customers at a hotel.

Quality wise, Lim assured that there would be no difference, as the chefs serving at both restaurants are both long time students of Kampachi’s master chef Lew Tin Sin.

“Kampachi at the Pavilion will have the same food supply as Equatorial, so customers can be assured of the same quality that they have come to expect at Kampachi,” Lim said.

The restaurant will also be promoting specialty teas from Japan, which include Kaga Gold Leaf Tea, Tsugaru Green Tea and Soba Stem Green Tea.

Exotic Twist To A Familiar Noodle Dish

2007-10-29T23:00:00.000+08:00

By JED YOONG

CANTONESE fried noodles is probably a familiar dish to most of us, but Tom Yam Cantonese Yin Yong may be the latest exotic variation to hit the streets.

Yin Yong noodle dishes feature two types of rice noodles – the broad, flat hor fun or kwayteow, and thin vermicelli or bee hoon. The soft flat noodles are balanced by the crispy deep-fried vermicelli, hence the name “Yin Yong”, in reference to the Taoist concept of complementary opposites.

Delicious: Tang enjoying a plate of Tom Yam Cantonese Yin Yong.

Traditionally, the sauce in Cantonese fried noodles is usually made of chicken or pork stock thickened with starch and egg white. At Boon Boon Café, the dish is given a new Thai Tom Yam flavour that works surprisingly well.

And, this is just one of the fusion dishes concocted by head chef and co-owner Alex Tang. In fact, you can choose from over 900 items on its menu.

“Our signature dishes are all original recipes, usually a common dish given a new dimension. And you can get almost anything here, from nasi lemak to sizzling steak. Our drinks menu is equally extensive,” the 29-year-old said at the café in Taman Desa off Old Klang Road.

“We want our customers to have as many choices as possible at affordable prices in a comfortable, air-conditioned environment,” added Tang, who has almost 10 years of hotel kitchen experience.

Inviting ambience: The interior of Boon Boon Cafe.

Among the most popular fusion creations are Cheesy Ham Chic-ken Chop (RM13.50) and Indian Pizza (RM6.90). The chicken chop is deep-fried with cheese and chicken ham stuffed beneath the skin.

The Indian pizza, meanwhile, uses roti canai instead of a bread base, with toppings like Hawaiian Chicken (pineapple with a chicken bolognaise sauce; RM6.90), Mush-room Herbs (RM6.90) and Neptune Deluxe (a selection of seafood, including cuttlefish and fish fillet; RM8.90).

Its Seafood Spaghetti is also good value at RM9.90: the portion is large, with good-sized shrimps and even a mussel in a cheesy white sauce.

For a snack, Tang recommends Double Happiness (RM8.90). Fans of deep-fried minced chicken and shrimp dumplings (wan tan and sui gau) will be pleasantly surprised by the crunchy bits of mushroom, water chestnut, carrot and spring onion that are hardly detectable or totally absent in the dumplings served at some places.

Refreshing: (Clockwise from left) Ice Cream Coffee, Large Iced Jasmine Tea, Chilled Special Chocolate Delight and Banana Split.

Another imaginative snack is Cornflakes Chicken (RM5.00) – deep-fried cornflake-crusted chicken chunks.

The drinks menu has over 150 types of beverages, including milkshakes, ice blended drinks, fruit juices and iced milk tea with pearls or “bubble tea”, and even lists “sky juice” or water. A carafe of Iced Lemon Tea (RM5.50) is enough for two people to share. And, the Ice Cream Coffee (RM6.50) comes with two scoops of vanilla ice cream in a tall glass of black coffee brewed from imported Italian beans.

Currently, customers who present the café's discount card are entitled to a 10 per cent discount on nine bills before a 20 per cent discount on their tenth bill. Set lunches start at RM10.90 and include the soup of the day, a drink and a scoop of ice cream.

The café serves halal meat but alcohol is available.

BOON BOON CAFÉ, 29A & 30A, Jalan Desa Jaya (same row as Public Bank), Taman Desa, 58100 Kuala Lumpur (tel: 03-7987 5272).
Business hours: Mondays to Thursdays, including public holidays (11am to midnight); Fridays, Saturdays and eve of public holidays (11am to 2am). Free Wi-Fi.

Great Perk

2007-10-29T00:18:00.001+08:00

By FARIDAH BEGUM

Nothing lifts the appetite like a spoon of chicken curry on your rice or bread.

MENTION chicken curry and you have everyone’s eyes lit up. A great perk to waned appetites, chicken curry in a bowl with steam billowing is set to get fingers itching to work on the mound of rice on any plate.

For many, chicken curry is a dish for off-days and weekends when the whole family congregates and it is equally good with the humble roti canai, white rice and even buttered rice, pilaf and briyani.

Every home has a secret recipe and every restaurant, stall and hotel has its own well-kept yellowed book of ingredients to make the perfect chicken curry.

In Indian food establishments anywhere in the world, each outlet has its own variations and it is not wrong to say in the land where curry was concocted, wars have even been started between households as to what makes an unforgettable chicken curry.

Suffice to say, there are no winners as each variation is special in its own way and every husband and child swears by their own wives and mothers!

In Malaysia, the varieties of chicken curry are endless as you have the Indian, Malay, Punjabi, Chinese Nyonya, Thai and even the Indonesian types.

The most common is the Indian style, which is redolent of spices and lots of secret ingredients if it is home cooked. In retail establishments, the test is in the taste and presentation.

It is a difficult task finding the best chicken curry in the country as it would need gourmets and celebrated cooks and chefs to try and give their comments on the chicken curry presented at a competition or gathering.

Every mother would get votes from her own children and every individual who has chicken curry outside their home will vouch for the one that meets his or her own expectation.

For those who want to try their hand at making a good chicken curry at home, the most important criterion is using your personal favourite of chicken parts. In many homes, it has been observed that the drumsticks and the wings are the parts that create petty quarrels, so it would be wise to get enough of these parts to satisfy every plate on the table.

A secret to getting good chicken curry is in not forgetting to add the concoction of pounded young ginger and garlic.

This ingredient will make a world of difference in lifting the taste of the chicken curry and in giving it the kick that would otherwise be smothered by too much curry powder or coconut milk.

A simple chicken curry can be made with a couple of spoons of meat curry powder, some sliced onions, curry leaves, tomatoes, the ginger and garlic paste, salt and pepper along with some yoghurt and coconut milk.

For the health conscious, substitute the coconut milk for low-fat milk and add natural yoghurt for a touch of the authentic curry flavour.

Potatoes are a must if you have children and young adults and don’t forget to add a sprig or two of coriander leaves, which adds to the flavour and colour of the dish. Please skin the chicken, although some would argue that it is the skin that adds to the flavour of the curry.

Ask any cook and they will tell you that letting the curry mature for a few hours or overnight helps make the curry taste even better!

Since chicken curry is often an indulgence, forget the doctor or dietician’s advice and let a little oil float on top of the curry.

Good accompaniment to chicken curry is fried chicken in any style, salads and stir-fried vegetables, especially sweet Beijing cabbage and French beans.

Of late, chicken curry that can be had in stalls and restaurants have actually failed to meet the exacting standards that KLites approve of but of the few that have met the mark, Sunday Metro recommends Tanjung Puteri in Sri Hartamas, Syed Restaurant in Petaling Jaya and Bangsar and in the various Nasi Kandar restaurants along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman.

SMS SENDERS’ PICK FOR BEST CHICKEN CURRY

> The best chicken curry sitaram curry house in brickfields same row with 7 11.

> I think de bst cicken cury can be tasted at fok heng restaurant in bercham, ipoh

> Green curry chicken (boneless drumstick) at chilli corner thai restaurant no: 10 jln nagore pg. (behind dorsett hotel)

> The best chicken curry in the country availabe at Maj Stall no.47 ah-quee st 10200 pg. The curry chicken called Chicken Kapitan.

> Lotus Restaurant, Jalan Gasing.Superb curry. Shalini.

> Parames chicken curry in Taman Chi Ling, Klang

> Nair chicken curry occupying a Chinese coffee shop in Jalan Station, Klang over 40 years

> The Best chicken curry @ Vinni Jeyaa Banana Leaf Curry House opposite of Pasar Seni lrt stn, sunther, kl

> Finger licking good chicken curry at Sri Paandi Restaurant in Jln Chantek,PJ

> The best curry chicken can an be indulged at rest. Nts nasi lemak sri muda n k.Kemuning. Taste nice. Absolutely Delicious

Pleasant Surprises

2007-10-29T00:00:00.000+08:00

MAKAN MAKAN WITH FARIDAH BEGUM

When we know how to improvise, the food can be very nice.

I MUST thank readers who have not only been trying out my recipes but who have also been constantly e-mailing me their efforts and the verdict on the fruits of their labour.

I am happy to note that many are beginning to take up the challenge of planning their meals with more surprises in store for their family.

Before I go any further, I must thank all of you for your constant support and this has actually helped me to come up with more and easier fix-it fast meals for all of you.

A reader, who has been in contact with me ever since my column began in August, spoke of how she tore up the hundreds of recipes she had collected over the years and was discouraged to try because of the parts in the recipes that began to look like a spare parts catalogue.

I, too, feel the same way when looking through my own collection of recipe books and I always fall back on the golden rule my mother imparted to me: “There is always an easier way of getting things done. It’s not called cheating or doing away with tradition but it is improvising.”

Incidentally, sometime last year, when I decided to make my own Nasi Kerabu, I was following the recipe book to the letter and nothing turned out as it was photographed. I worked through the recipe, refusing to admit defeat. After a few improvisations, I managed not only to make Nasi Kerabu like the Kelantanese themselves but also got my Kelantanese husband proudly exclaiming that I made it like the original version. He has since been insisting that this is the main dish whenever he has friends over.

Likewise, all gulais that called for difficult and often impossible stuff have since been restructured and, thankfully, they all taste like the traditional version, minus the hours of toil in the kitchen.

This week, I am trying to change the fact the battered or breaded fish fillets must always come with chips and Tartar sauce.

For the tempura black-pepper fish fillet, I am pairing it with a nice mushroom sauce and a medley of colourful vegetables as a side accompaniment to the delicious white fish.

For the light-batter tempura fish fillet, I am going Western this week with the fish becoming the vehicle for a lovely mushroom and cheese topping. Something like a bruschetta with a mushroom topping but hyped up with a generous sprinkle of pizza cheese. Enjoy them!

Faridah Begum is passionate about cooking and stuffing family and friends with food, whether tasty or not.

Tempura Black-pepper Fish Fillet with Mushroom Sauce and the Summer Medley

Tempura Black-pepper Fish Fillet with Mushroom Sauce and the Summer Medley

Ingredients:

One packet of frozen tempura black- pepper fish fillets, deep-fried and drained

1 tablespoon of brown sauce mix, mixed with a little water

Fresh thinly sliced button mushrooms

Salt and pepper to taste

Medley of vegetables – leeks, zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, cauliflower, celery and carrot

A little olive oil or butter

Method:

Sauté the button mushrooms in some butter and when browned, add the brown sauce mixture and wait till it simmers.

In another saucepan, heat up a little olive oil, toss the vegetables in and stir-fry until slightly soft.

Season to taste and place a portion on individual plates. Put a piece of the fish fillet on the plate and smother with the mushroom sauce. Serve with garlic bread.

Baked Cheesy Fish Fillet

Baked Cheesy Fish Fillet

Ingredients:

A packet of frozen tempura fish fillets, deep-fried and drained

A little olive oil

A variety of mushrooms, cut up into bite pieces

Some pizza cheese

Salt and pepper to taste

Chopped parsley for garnishing

Method:

Heat the oven. Lightly oil an oven-safe dish and place the fish fillets at the bottom, take care not to overlap them. Sauté the mushrooms for about three minutes and pour it over the fish fillets. Sprinkle with cheese as generously as possible, season with pepper and add the parsley.

Grill the dish for about 15 to 20 minutes until the cheese bubbles and serve.

Hock Chew Specialities

2007-10-28T23:42:00.000+08:00

By CLARA CHOOI
Photos by LEW YONG KAN and SAIFUL BAHRI

When in Sitiawan, do not miss out on the opportunity to feast on Hock Chew food and biscuits.

WHEN the Hock Chew migrants from China settled in Sitiawan in the early 1900s, they brought with them a host of interesting specialities.

Today, this bustling coastal town of Perak is known for its signature “sweet and sour” Hock Chew or Fuzhou cuisine that tastes delightfully different from most other kinds of Chinese cooking.

Some of the best Hock Chew food can be found in the Bei King restaurant on Jalan Raja Omar, right smack in the middle of Sitiawan.

Restaurant proprietor Ching Kin Eng has more than 20 years of experience behind the wok, whipping up the very dishes her ancestors used to prepare.

Signature dishes: Ching with some of the Hock Chew specialities she serves at her restaurant in Sitiawan.

However, even the skilful Ching has to admit the Hock Chew cuisine may not suit the palate of every Malaysian, whose taste buds have already been sullied by the spice-packed foods of the country’s various cultures.

As such, the shrewd businesswoman has successfully concocted her very own “special brew” of the Hock Chew food.

“What I’ve done is modify the dishes according to taste. This is to make sure every dish is special on its own; people who eat it will know immediately that I was the one who cooked it,” she jokes during an interview at the air-conditioned restaurant recently.

One of Ching’s bestsellers is an all-time Hock Chew favourite – red wine thread noodles cooked with tender chicken.

Served steaming hot in a huge bowl, this dish can be found in most restaurants that serve Hock Chew food.

Ching’s version, however, is probably one of the popular ones among the locals.

Why?

“It’s obvious, really. I make my own wine here. And as popular belief suggests, homemade food tastes better than commercialised food,” she says.

For the dish, Ching uses “long-life” noodles, which are white in colour and has a slippery softness and a milky flavour when boiled.

“The noodles, too, are handmade. That’s why they taste better,” she says.

To make the tangy-tasting red wine, Ching, declining to elaborate further on her secret recipe, says: “Plenty of materials are used.”

“I use only quality products to make the wine. The pulut and yeast used are the expensive ones.”

As a result, the dish has a myriad of tastes – sour and tangy, a dash of saltiness and a sweet aftertaste.

Another of Ching’s delights is the fried oyster egg.

The oysters used for the dish come from the day’s morning catch and are always fresh and fragrant.

The eggs are beaten to a fluff then fried with onions and chillies before the oysters are added in.

The result is a golden brown omelette, stuffed with loads of juicy, slightly salted oysters, still glistening with the taste of the ocean.

“This is always a favourite amongst our customers. After all, everyone loves their omelette,” says Ching.

One must-have dish is the sweet and sour sea cucumber thick soup cooked with fish maw.

This dish is partly spicy and is addictive to say the least.

“Hock Chew food is known to be mostly sweet and sour. For this particular dish, we make it slightly spicy to suit Malaysians,” says Ching.

The sea cucumbers are cooked until tender with a blended concoction of fish maw, chillies and ginger.

If one is not already satisfied with the first three dishes, do not forget to try another Hock Chew favourite – the homemade fish balls.

These fish balls are different from most as they are stuffed with salted minced pork and prawns.

“We make them here ourselves and customers just love them.”

Besides that, customers could also order other specialities of the outlet such as fried soft shell crabs, sliced sweet and sour fish, and chicken with salted egg.

Another mouth-watering Hock Chew creation found in Sitiawan is the “Gong Pian” biscuits.

Hard and crispy on the outside, these savoury biscuits are one of the oldest favourites brought by the Hock Chew settlers from China.

Where can you find them?

A hop, skip and jump away from Bei King will lead you to the Sitiawan Cheong Cia Gong Pian shop, located behind Wisma Ganda, on Jalan Tok Perdana.

The age-old family business is just booming. Come rain or shine, the rather unsuspecting looking shoplot is in a constant flurry of activity.

Special ingredients: Cheong Hiong Koh preparing Gong Pian biscuits for the clay oven.

In the midst of this, one will find proprietors Cheong Hiong Koh, 41, and his brother Heong Poh, 33, who took over the business from their granduncle over 10 years back.

The two successfully tweaked the original “Gong Pian” recipe to create what you will find sold at their shop today – biscuits stuffed with sweet “char siew” or slightly salted fried onions.

They may not look like much to the naked eye but take a bite into one the moment it is taken out of the clay oven and your taste buds will convince you otherwise.

“The original recipe is very plain and the biscuits have no fillings.

“People love the new recipe of “Gong Pian” that we have created. In fact, some customers come in and buy over 300 pieces per order to take away,” says Hiong Koh.

The biscuits are made from wheat flour, yeast, salt and lard. The dough is kneaded carefully by hand before it is put into a machine to be rolled. After that, it is flattened and rolled into smaller pieces, stuffed with the fillings and rolled again with a rolling pin.

“Once done, we put them into the heated oven (tandoor) where they are baked for a few minutes until they are hard and crispy,” says Hiong Koh.

Hot stuff: The Gong Pian biscuits sold at the Sitiawan Cheong Cia Gong Pian shop.

The onion-filled biscuits cost 60 sen each while the “char siew” ones cost 90 sen each.

“We make at least 1,000 biscuits a day. The first batch is ready for sale at about 10am every day.”

Three batches are made and every single biscuit is snapped up even before the shop closes for the day in the evening, he adds.

“It’s a bit hard for us to make so many biscuits because the preparation and baking for each batch takes about one and a half hours,” he said.

In fact, business is so good for the family that the shop is closed during public holidays.

“As it is, the orders are for more than we can make every day. If we open during public holidays, I don’t think we can keep up with the demand,” says Hiong Koh.

So when in Sitiawan, do not miss out on the opportunity to feast on Hock Chew food, including the delicious “Gong Pian” biscuits.

Aromatic Soups Beckon

2007-10-28T23:32:00.000+08:00

By BONNY WEE

Many are drawn to the hot, herbal spicy soups at M. Nasir Soup Kambing in Malacca.

FOR a delicious bowl of piping hot mutton or chicken soup, make your way to M. Nasir Soup Kambing at ‘Medan Selera Datang Selalu’ located along Jalan Tun Lanang in Malacca city centre. The food court is sandwiched between two hotels, namely, City Bayview and Orkid.

For Mohamad Nasir B. Mohd Ahmad or popularly known as ‘M. Nasir’, age 44, who has been operating the stall since the food court opened in 2000, the demand for his “aromatic, herbal, spicy and thick” soup dishes has been growing steadily over the years.

Apart from dishing up mutton, beef and chicken soup using his own “secret recipe”, he also serves speciality dishes like those with bones, tongue and stomach.

According to Nasir, the torpedo soup is among the top sellers and his customers comprise not only locals but also those from out of town and who are attracted no less by claims of its aphrodisiac value. For side orders, there are cube slices of white bread or white rice available.

Hard at work: Mohamad Nasir dishing up his special soup.

“The soup takes seven to eight hours to prepare and cook and it’s done over a slow fire to ensure that the meat is tender and cooked just right.

“I have to be careful not to under-cook or over-cook the meat, and to use the right amounts of fresh herbs and ingredients, otherwise it won’t taste nice.

“I also go to the market every day to choose the right meat which I make sure is fresh. Above all, I cook it on a daily basis and there’s no keeping of left-overs,” says Nasir.

He readily admitted modifying the “flavour” in the initial years after checking it out with his customers and has now got it “perfectly right – not too hot nor too spicy” – and which everyone can enjoy.

Over the years, foreign tourists have also dropped by to try his mutton and chicken soup and some have even made return visits. With the aptly named food court, Nasir says in jest, “When craving for hot herbal spicy soup the customers ‘selalu datang’ (come always)!”

His stall is open daily from 6.30pm to 12.30am.

Oozing Sweetness

2007-10-28T23:20:00.000+08:00

By CHAN LI LEEN

A bite of the Sing Eng Heong kaya puff can put a smile on your face.

ALMOST anyone who emerges from Sin Eng Heong, a tiny biscuit shop on Jalan Mustapha Al-Bakri in Ipoh, has some sort of a jubilant look on his or her face.

The satisfied looks are telltale signs that they have just successfully “secured” boxes of the shop’s much sought-after kaya puffs.

Crispy on the inside, yet the flaky pastry underneath crumbles as you bite into it – that is how some fans describe the bite-sized puffs.

Others swear by the generous amount of steaming hot homemade kaya that oozes out when you sink your teeth into it.

Hot off the oven: Ng Lian Pin removing a tray of freshly baked kaya puffs from the oven at his shop.

Sin Eng Heong owner Ng Lian Pin says the kaya puffs are made on demand to ensure freshness.

True enough, there is always a long line of people waiting at the shop for the 74-year-old biscuit maker to take them out of the oven.

And before there is time for the kaya puffs to cool down, they are already sold.

“Customers have to pre-order for weekends and holidays,” Ng cautions against any disappointments.

Ng had started out as an apprentice in biscuit and pastry making at the age of 16, learning the tricks of the trade from various “sifu” in Penang, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

“I didn’t go to school and didn’t have a job.

“That was in the 1950s and I’ve been baking biscuits and pastries since,” he says, modestly.

Ng also makes traditional wedding cakes, ham tan sou (lotus paste and salted egg yolk puffs), Hong Kong wife biscuits, heong peah, and variations of everyone’s favourite dragon ball biscuit.

Sin Eng Heong opens daily from 9am to 8pm but go early if you intend to get your hands on some kaya puffs.

To play safe, however, call 05-243 9659 to place orders.

Recipe For Success

2007-10-28T20:31:00.000+08:00

By SANGEETHA NAIR

IF you have the right attitude and are willing to work hard, even selling putumayam can make you wealthy.

Hands on: Thanayenthiran demonstrating how a machine is used to squeeze out the flour that is shaped into a putumayam.

This was what Thanayenthiran Velloo learnt as his life turned from one of rags to riches within five years. No one would have thought that the 41-year-old man who left school when he was in Form Three would become one of Klang’s biggest putumayam distributors one day.

Thanayenthiran, who is of Indian-Chinese parentage, says that after failing his SRP examination he left his hometown in Ipoh to start a new life in Kuala Lumpur.

“I was all alone in Kuala Lumpur and life was hard as I had to do many different odd jobs to survive,” says the youngest of five siblings.

Among the jobs he has done include being an electrician, plumber and a newspaper vendor. But all these jobs did not rake in much income.

“I was a newspaper vendor for 18 years but it did not get me anywhere. Then five years ago I decided to start a putumayam business.

“I did not have a single sen in my pocket then but it was a risk I had to take,” says the father of three.

“I bought over the business from a gentleman for RM50,000. Luck must have been on my side as the man did not ask me to pay him upfront. After a year, I contacted him and paid him half of what I owed him. The following year I settled the balance,” he says.

It has been five years since Thanayenthiran started his business and today, he has earned enough money to buy himself two houses and a van to continue his business as a newspaper vendor.

Easy does it: A worker at Thanayenthiran’s shop collecting the cooked string hoppers for packing.

He operates his putumayam business from a shop called Kedai Putumayam Sentosa in Taman Sentosa, Klang.

“I receive a minimum order of 1,700 pieces of putumayam a day. On weekends, the demand can hit 2,000 pieces,” he says.

His shop specialises in white putumayam, pandan putumayam and raagi putumayam which he claims is popular among the older generation.

“Raagi is richer in protein, calcium and antioxidants, and contains high levels of dietary fibre as compared to rice flour. It is known to help control blood glucose levels in diabetics,” he explains.

Besides putumayam, he also takes orders for curry puffs, vadai and mothagam (dumpling with green pea filling) which is prepared by his wife at their home in Shah Alam.

His clients are mainly vendors and restaurants from Puchong, Shah Alam and Klang.

Thanayenthiran has already started receiving orders for Deepavali but expects most of the orders to come one week before Deepavali.

Deepavali has been a quiet occasion for him and his family.

“We have not celebrated Deepavali since I started this business,” he says.

While fellow Hindus are celebrating the festivities, Thanayenthiran and his wife would be slogging to meet the orders.

“We would start making the putumayam two days before Deepavali and work for 48 hours straight without rest. I would also have an additional eight workers aside from the existing two to help me out.

“On the day of Deepavali, I would be so exhausted that I would sleep the whole day.”

He says his children would normally spend their holidays at his mother’s house in Ipoh as he would never deprive them of their fun.

Thanayenthiran can be contacted at 019-393 8782.

Popular Indian Dish

Putumayam, also known as Idiappam or string hoppers, is a sweet Indian dish made of rice flour. It is eaten with grated coconut and palm sugar or any curries. It is can served at all meals but is especially popular at breakfast and tea-time, and at open houses during Deepavali.

The process of making putumayam consists of sieving rice flour, mixing it with water, sieving it again, steaming the flour and pressing the dough through a mould with tiny holes. The mould is moved in a circular motion to make nice round putumayam which is then steamed. The putumayam is left to cool before being packed.

Spoil Yourself In Regal Setting

2007-10-27T01:53:00.000+08:00

By HELEN ONG

THE impressive and colourful exterior of this restaurant on Tanjong Tokong Road, Penang, will give you an idea of what to ex-pect inside. And once you enter, the rich, intricate decor makes you feel like you’re inside a Moghul palace.

Attention has been paid down to the last detail, including deliberately aged pillars, soft lighting and arched recesses leading to smaller nooks and crannies. Soft sitar music play-ing in the background adds to the ethnic experience.

The Palace d’India is indeed a re-gal place. What better place to celebrate Deepavali with family or friends?

“The Moghul kings had a rich culture,” restaurant manager Anand, 27, said, “and a highly-developed taste for fine food.

“That’s the kind of food we serve here: good authentic Indian food for non-Indians.”

Good choice:The Bendi Nasala.

The cosy interior belies a large seating capacity of 350, but if you are holding a private function for 30 to 40 guests, they can arrange a special buffet on the first floor. Alternati-vely, they can cater for your party off site.

It’s easy to see why they were named one of Malaysia Tatler’s Best Restaurants for Excellent Cuisine and Service 2006 and 2007.

The service is friendly but dis-creetly efficient, and the extensive menu of old favourites like tandoori and curries, and other more exotic-sounding names created by a team of six chefs from different provinces in India will ensure a wonderful culinary experience.

According to Anand, they are the only restaurant in Malaysia serving 112 different varieties of kebabs, effectively making them a kebab factory.

“They are baked in a tandoori oven at exactly 140 degrees Fahren-heit, and the cooking is precisely timed, otherwise they can be under or overcooked.”

Apart from tikkas, try their Murg Malai, lightly flavoured yet tasty chicken, or their unusual Rashimi, also chicken, served with light and fluffy egg yoke.

Popular main courses include their Sizzling Dishes which are Kashmiri delights – mutton, fish, chicken or prawns served with a chilli and capsicum gravy.

The tender Cauliflower Manchu-rian is a Chinese dish which has been adapted with added spices, and the Claypot Fish Curry, with a me-dium-hot sauce, is another favou-rite.

“Not all Indian food is hot and spicy,” said Anand.

However, the tender Sizzling Lamb is spicy and so is the Chicken Vindaloo. Eaten with one of their many rice dishes, briyanis or pilaus, both were tasty and filling.

They also offer eight different types of bread, including naan and the light and delicate roomali.

Vegetarians have a large selection to choose from as well.

A live three-piece band performs throughout the evening, their per-cussion and stringed instruments twanging in musical accompani-ment to not just Indian, but English and even Chinese songs.

For reservations, call 04-899 9715 or email them on info@palaced india.com.

Harmony Of Flavours

2007-10-27T01:46:00.000+08:00

If you've always wanted to try Japanese food but simply don't know what to order,then head for Matsuki Restaurant in Cantonment Road, Penang.

They have two menus available: one for those already familiar with Japanese food and the other comes with photos of the food for people who aren't.

And you don’t have to worry about accompaniments. You'll get a complete meal with the Special Lunch Bento set – chicken teriyaki, unagi (eel), fried vegetables and sashimi together with rice, miso soup, chawan mushi (steamed egg custard) and fruit.

A delicious Sukiyaki Tei Set, served piping hot in a claypot, costs just RM18 and the Seafood Set RM25.

Value for money:The Seafood Set offers a complete meal.

Also try the Gyuniku Kimuchi Itame (sliced beef fried with kimchee) and Adegashi Tofu (deep-fried tofu with sauce) – both very appetising.

Indulge in some Haagen Daz ice-cream and wash it all down with hot or cold sake or Asahi beer.

The food is such exceptionally good va- lue because proprietor Lee Ten Lin, 57, is also a purveyor of Japanese groceries and therefore has access to the raw ingredients at trade prices.

The chilled tuna is shipped in weekly, and the salmon (shake) is flown in twice a week, ensuring the sashimi is as fresh as possible.

“Every morning, I go to the market personally to source for the best produce available,” Lee explained.

He employs experienced local chefs, and service is provided by his wife Judy and daughter Siew Yen, which all go towards keeping quality up but costs, and therefore prices, down.

Matsuki has been going for over 10 years now, and judging by the lunchtime crowd and Japanese clientele who go there to eat and read the papers, it offers not just value for money but also authentic Japanese food (he often gets busloads of Japanese tour groups too).

The pork-free outlet, with its neat, fresh interior and clean wooden furniture, is a pleasant place. It has four tatami rooms which can be booked in advance, and sufficient parking in the front garden.

Matsuki is open every day from noon to 2.30pm for lunch and 6pm to 10.30pm for dinner. For details or reservations, call 04-229 5504.

Well-Travelled Chef Shares His Passion For French-Euro Cuisine

2007-10-27T01:14:00.000+08:00

By GEETHA KRISHNAN

IT is a known fact that we locals love our food but do we know enough about it?

Plush decor: Brasserie La Place beckons with its black interior and coordinated furniture.

When S. K. Cheah opened Brasserie La Place in Damansara Utama, his intention, aside from embarking on a business venture, was to share his food knowledge with fellow Malaysians.

Lean: Foie Gras in Balsamico.

The well-trained and well-travelled chef spent 36 years of his life in Europe, working in Netherlands, Switzerland, France and Canada. His last stint was at the Amsterdam RAI International Exhibition and Congress Centre in Holland.

Over lunch at Brasserie La Place (pronounced Plas in French), Cheah explained that Europeans took their meat seriously and had a tendency to frown on strong marinades.

“Red meats are best served medium rare so the natural flavour and juices can be relished. Over-marinating masks the real taste of meat while well done steaks, depending on where the meat was procured, can turn out leathery,” he said.

According to Cheah, the five-month-old Brasserie La Place goes by standard European dining requirements and diners are advised to order their meats medium rare for a European culinary experience. Wine reductions are also big here.

Brasserie La Place offers upscale French-European cuisine without burning a hole in your wallet. The three-course set lunch with five different main courses is RM19.90++.

Rich offering: Grilled King Prawns with Blue Cheese Sauce.

The decor here is swanky, featuring chic dining furniture in plush black, paired with elegant chandeliers dangling black-and-white crystals. There’s the bar, function room and private lounge for aperitifs.

Lately Cheah has been overseeing the running of the restaurant and has placed head chef Chia Lai Heng in charge of the kitchen. They are in the midst of adding new items to the a la carte menu.

Both also swear by chilled beef from Australia for superior taste, texture and quality. The Beef Carpaccio was spectacular with raw slivers of tenderloin accompanied by capers, sun-dried tomatoes and cheese shavings.

Curing is an important process for the Foie Gras with Balsamico because the combination of port and cognac ensures the goose liver stays lean and fat-free.

The best part of every meal: Choux Chocolate Fondant is a must have for all dessert lovers.

Cheah is contemplating introducing cold soups like vichycoisse and gazpacho. His restaurant serves Cream of Cucumber and Mint, a hot, refreshing soup enjoyed by most.

“We had reservations about the soup because Malaysians are not big on cooked cucumbers. The cream and mint has made all the difference,” he said.

A generous and tasty stuffing of turkey ham and shiitake mushrooms goes into the Stuffed Spring Chicken with Duxxels in Supreme Sauce. For the lamb special the natural choice would be Sauteed Lamb Cutlets with Honey and Rosemary Sauce. The herb arms the meat with a lovely fragrance.

You’re assured of fresh crustaceans for the Grilled King Prawns with Blue Cheese Sauce. The sauce might be an acquired taste but Chia’s decision to include spaghetti in the dish tones down the strong flavour.

Chef’s choice: Brasserie La Place chefs recommend that red meats be savoured medium rare.

Keen on offering the best even for dessert, Chia uses Belgian bittersweet chocolate for the Choux Chocolate Fondant. Its gooey centre oozes rich chocolate but it is best to savour the platter of mixed berries and sliced fruits first before embarking on the decadent chocolate experience.

BRASSERIE LA PLACE (Pork-free) 55B-59B,
Uptown 37, 2nd Floor (above HSBC),
Jalan SS21/37, Damansara Utama,
Petaling Jaya, Selangor (Tel: 03-7710 5562).
Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (noon to 2.30pm) and dinner (6pm to 9.30pm).
Closed on Sunday.