Fish Head Noodles Second To None

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG


JUST when I thought I had seen them all, my colleague James Lam, an avid foodie, invited me to have lunch with him.

“Eh Sam ah, you free or not? We go to Jalan Kuchai Lama for makan?” he said. I needed no coaxing, it is always an honour to makan with Lam because he goes to great lengths for a decent meal.

Lam and I had earlier met over breakfast and our topic of conversation was ... what else, but food, glorious food!

After making the necessary arrangements, the man said he knew of a secret spot that served yee thau mai (fish head noodles). I had been alerted to many such makan places but, according to Lam, this was one of the “unspoilt” places that I must visit.


Yummy: The Udang Galah beehoon is a notch better than the fish head noodles.

“It’s not commercialised yet and very few food critics know of it. So, we must check it out before its prices go up — especially after a review is posted in the newspaper.”

So, we met up for lunch on a Friday. The place is about a 15-minute drive from Section 16 in Petaling Jaya. Lam manouvred his vehicle through a series of housing estates before we ended up at Jalan Lazat, which is located near Happy Garden in Old Klang Road.

To the uninitiated, this is one place at the fringe of the city centre where there are plenty of good makan places. I can go on and on about the food here, but this week’s pick is a yee thau mai stall at the Choy Kei coffee shop in Jalan Lazat.

If you are not familiar with the housing estates in Old Klang Road, finding this coffee shop can be a real adventure. The landmark here is a row of hawker stalls; Choy Kei is the last corner coffee shop if you are coming from the direction of Happy Garden.

This housing estate brought back plenty of memories of the time when I was a secondary school kid. This was the neighbourhood my friends and I visited when they first acquired their driving licences.

High school romance was blooming and if you were a schoolboy with wheels, your social circle expanded tremendously. And, during the Chinese New Year, there was no shortage of red packets when we went visiting around the area.

My first encounter with the good food here was some 18 years ago. I was introduced to a steamed fish head stall in Jalan Lazat and well, that was the first and last time I visited the place. So, Lam’s invitation held sort of a “Happy Garden revisited” nostalgia for me.

At Choy Kei, he wasted no time in ordering the yee thau mai.


Creamy and tasty: A small portion of Choy Kei’s fish head noodles.

Now, prices here are at a premium. For RM6.80, you get a bowl of fish head noodles with extras like the yee wat (fish paste) thrown in.

To my surprise, the noodle dishes can cost up to RM13.50. I asked the food handler what the extras were and he said: “Ah, for the highest price, you get halved udang galah and yee wat along with the fish head.”

I found his description satisfactory and when the noodles arrived, I found it to be one of the best fish head noodles I had tasted so far.

The gravy was creamy as expected, and the portion of noodles and fish head were generous, so there was hardly anything that I could complain about.

Lam also ordered the sang har mai (prawn beehoon), which was a notch better than the fish head beehoon.

I had fresh sauteed udang galah halves and the the prawn’s aromatic flavour blended with the evaporated milk gravy to give it oomph! At RM11.50 a helping, this is the second most expensive noodle dish in the house.

Now, the “secret” ingredient that made my yee thau mai experience at Choy Kei complete was the chee yau char (pork cracklings).

No other fish head beehoon stall can come close to what this coffee shop offers and so far, it is the top contender for the best yee thau mai in the Klang Valley.

I was also told by Lam that there is a dancing cook in this coffee shop. Ah, well, that will be my excuse for a follow-up visit to Choy Kei.

If you plan to head to Jalan Lazat, be sure to get there early as the coffee shop is usually packed during lunch hour.

The GPS coordinates for Choy Kei coffee shop are 3 4’ 35” N, 101 40’ 43” E. This time round, I will be a bit generous by including the map from my Nokia maps screenshot that cost me a bomb for your reference.

And lastly, the fish head beehoon is a lunchtime treat, so be advised on the timing, and to all you foodies out there — happy hunting!

Eating out

Popular Peking Duck



CHEF Wang Qiaoyu of Hilton Shanghai is back at Toh Yuen Chinese Restaurant in Hilton Petaling Jaya to cook his Peking Duck speciality. The promotion runs until April 15. Priced at RM108++ per bird, the Peking Duck is served in different styles. The skin is sliced thinly and wrapped with a specially-made pancake. The meat is then prepared into Stir Fried Diced Duck with Lettuce, Sauteed Shredded Duck Meat with Bean Sprouts, Stir Fried Duck with Bell Pepper in Black Bean Sauce and Wok Fried Noodles with Shredded Duck. The promotion also offers a seven-course set menu priced at RM106++ per person, featuring Peking Duck, Braised Shark’s Fin Soup with Eight Treasures and Fish Lips, Wok Fried Fresh Scallop and Prawns with XO Sauce, Steamed Red Garoupa with Light Soya Sauce, among others. For reservations, call 03-7955 9122 ext 4073/4.

F1-inspired dishes



WITH the Malaysian F1 Grand Prix season zooming into town, Spice of India at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur is giving F1 fans another reason to celebrate, with an exclusive premium menu. Only from April 1 to 5, diners can enjoy an exclusive three-course meal featuring authentic Indian specialities for a one-time offer of RM89++ per person (minimum two pax) in conjunction with Pavilion Pit Stop. The meal flags off with Subzi Samosa and the delightfully light Mulligatawny Soup and continues with a medley of flavours like Chicken Tandoori, Rogan Josh and Bendi Masala, matched with either a serving of chawal or naan bread fresh from the tandoor. The meal ends on a sweet note with Mango Kulfi. For reservations, call 03-2143 3669.

Exhilarating F1 drinks



CATCH the action at Monkey Bar with a range of exciting concoctions specially created for all F1 fans. There is Sepang Corner that is concocted from vodka, vanilla syrup, fresh milk and peanut butter, which is hearty and flavourful with a punch to it. For coffee lovers, the Grandstand mix comes highly recommended. This aromatic brew has shots of freshly-brewed espresso, cinnamon, kahlua, gin and a citrus touch, thanks to addition of orange peel. For teetotallers, there is Sauber, which is made up of a combination of raspberry, blueberry and peach puree topped up with sweet soda and sprigs of mint leaves. For a refreshing change, Chequered Flag is the drink for you as the appetising mocktail contains pineapple, mango and calamansi juice, topped with juicy cherries for that extra bite. These April specials are priced at RM18++ for mocktails and RM25++ for cocktails. The outlet also serves mouth-watering snacks and bites and is well known for its pizzas and chicken wings. For reservations, call 03-4042 9888 ext 1027.

CAVA, 71 Jalan Bangkung, Bukit Bandaraya, KL (Tel: 03-2093 6637). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat, lunch (noon-3pm); dinner (6pm till late); Sun & Public Hols (6pm till late). Pork-free. Serves Catalonian-style cuisine, noted for its seafood and rice dishes. Expect good wines and an extensive tapas selection.

SAFFRON MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO, Unit 18 - G, Jalan Solaris 4, Solaris Mont’ Kiara, KL (Tel: 03-6203 0145). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). Serves Mediterranean cuisine with most of its dishes cooked with olive oil. Among the famous Mediterranean dishes are tapas, grilled and barbecued items and pasta. The flavours of Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Italy, Spain and other Mediterranean nations are available under one roof. Delicious breads are made in house, and served with a special dip.

BAR B.Q. PLAZA, Lot 338a, 1st Floor, Rainforest, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ (Tel: 03-7727 8148). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). Non-halal. A type of sauce sampled at a restaurant in Thailand led Bar B.Q Plaza’s owner to set up shop here. The sauce makes all the difference. Set lunch at RM9.90 on weekdays.

SPICE OF INDIA, Level 4, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL (Tel: 03-2164 9221). Business Hrs: Daily (11.30am-10.30pm). Pork-free. Spe­cialises in Northern and Southern Indian cuisine. Recommended dishes include Pomfret Tandoori, Leg of Lamb, Fish Head Curry, Lobster Tandoori and King Prawn Tandoori.

TAISHI TEPPANYAKI, Subang Business Centre, 34 Jalan USJ 9/5P (Tel: 03-8025 9603). Business Hrs: Tues-Sun, lunch (11.30am-3pm), dinner (6pm-10pm). Pork-free. Numerous teppanyaki sets, ranging in price from RM10.80 to RM24.80, complemented with homemade sauces. Four types of course meals at RM34.80 each.

CANTON FARE, 71G Jalan Medan Setia 1, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2093 5279, 03-6203 0223 - Solaris Mont’ Kiara). Business hours: Daily (11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10.30pm). Non-halal. Cantonese cuisine served hot from the wok is available in a variety of cooking styles. Famous for its glistening barbecued pork, roasted pork, whole roasted goose, signature pork ribs and dishes cooked with crab meat with egg white.

CICCIO RISTORANTE BAR PIZZERIA, 15 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2141 8605). Business Hrs: Daily (5pm-12.30am). Kitchen closes at 10.30pm but pizza is available till midnight. Pork-free. A casual, intimate and inviting place with wood-fired gourmet pizzas, homemade pasta and steaks.

SURE PIZZA, P37, Plaza Damas Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre, Jalan Hartamas 1, KL (Tel: 03-6201 6014). Business Hrs: Daily (10am-10pm). Pork-free. Cosy Italian restaurant serving authentic Italian food and thin-crust pizzas. Deliveries confined to Plaza Damas.

DEPARTURE LOUNGE, B/G/20, Jalan PJU 1/43, Aman Suria, PJ (Tel: 03-7803 3418). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat (8am-7pm); Sun & Public Hols (10am-5pm). Pork-free. Offers hearty breakfast sets with three, five and seven items. Also has a small selection of salads, pasta and sandwiches. Serves various kinds of coffee using Illy beans from Italy.

FISHERMAN’S COVE, LG10, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2782 3848). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Halal. The restaurant is designed as a boathouse and is tastefully decorated with sails and lamps to re-create a fishing village. The focus is on seafood, prepared in an open kitchen.

EAT WORK SHOP, 9 Jalan Peguam U1/25, Glenmarie Business Park, Shah Alam (Tel: 03-5569 7763). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat (11am-11pm). Pork-free. Boasts a swanky and trendy minimalist décor. Australian-influenced cuisine with a touch of Asian flavours.

CHILI’S GRILL & BAR, Lot 346B, Level 3, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL (Tel: 03-2164 1400). Business Hrs: Sun-Thurs (11am-11pm); Fri, Sat & Public Hols (11am-midnight). Halal. Serves American and Mexican food with specialities homemade hi-fi bread and Multon Chocolate Brownie. Offers a great view of KLCC’s fountain.

Korean Flavours To Whet The Palate

By ESTHER CHANDRAN


SOME of us may have read fables on acorns and oak trees and know that the mighty oak grows from little acorns but there is definitely not an acorn in sight, here in the tropics.

So, when Mary Shin Mi Suk explained that the brownish jelly like dish among the Korean side dishes before us was made of acorn powder, our ears pricked up.


Wide variety: The assorted barbecue fare at Restaurant Kung Jung.

Since acorns are not available locally, Shin’s mother Kim Jong Oh and her sister Hyun Suk return to South Korea twice a year to get essential Korean ingredients like acorn and sesameleaves, cutlery and spices for their outlet.

“We buy organic Korean acorns that can cost up to RM200 per kg and it is very expensive, just like the sesame leaves,” said Shin.

Once we learnt of its price, we quickly cleaned up the plate so as not to be wasteful.

The not too bad tasting acorn jelly dish (Dotorimuk) topped with seaweed is relished with soya sauce.

Besides the acorn jelly, we had several other side dishes like potato salad, marinated cockles, stir fried anchovies, fresh kimchi, regular kimchi, seasoned tofu, stir fried fish, garlic sticks and seaweed for bites as we watched waiters prepare our barbecue stove with special non-smoke emanating Korean coal.

Kim served us two types of kimchi - fresh kimchi and the preserved one so we could distinguish between the two.


Hot bowl: The Dol Sot Bi Bim Bam is a rice dish with spinach, white cabbage, chilli powder and raw egg which is quickly mixed at the table so the egg cooks in the hot rice.

The vegetable texture of the former was firmer, its spices raw and vibrant as we alternated between the two tastes, growing fond of the fresh version with each renewed experience.

Kimchi, Mary said was made of vegetables (usually cabbage), chilli powder, salt and garlic.

“Back in South Korea at the onset of winter, we make a lot of kimchi and we bury the kimchi container into a big hole in the ground and the snow helps keep the vegetable cold while it ferments.

“Koreans say that kimchi prepared during this period is the best,” Shin said as she served us Korean Raspberry Wine, Gold Korean Plum Gold Wine and Soju.

Here’s some good news - the variety of side dishes change daily and are complimentary.

There was plenty of garlic on our table and I enjoy the pungent herb.

Shin said Koreans love garlic and that 80% of their dishes had garlic in them.

We were having the Modum Koo Ee (assorted grilled barbeque) that consisted of fresh spare ribs, fresh sirloin, marinated spare ribs, marinated rib eye, char broiled marinated cuttlefish, prawns and scallops.

While waiting for the stove to heat up, the kitchen served the familiar Korean-style Pancake (Pah Jeon) that was aromatic with scallion and seafood.

With hard to grip stainless steel chopsticks, the omelette pancake was delicious with or without its accompanying sauce.

As the restaurant caters to locals, don’t be surprised to see a sauce laden with chilli padi served alongside.

The Chab Chae is lightly stir fried potato noodles with assorted vegetables in light sweet soy sauce that resembles the local stir fried glass noodle dish.

The aroma of the barbecued items, grilled before us, wafted in the air.

The grilled fare, be it the marinated or unseasoned meats, were as good as they smelt.

At the end of our barbecue experience, Shin brought in bowls with more Korean food.

The cold buckwheat noodles (Mool Naeng Meon) is a serving of fine noodles with mustard and vinegar.

Although the noodles were nice, it wasn’t exactly my cup of tea to have cold noodles shock my palate after the hot sizzling barbecue experience.

The other bowl (Dol Sot Bi Bim Bam) contained rice with spinach, white cabbage, chilli powder and raw egg which is quickly mixed at the table so the egg cooks in the hot rice.

The outlet, in its ninth year is a testament of Kim’s success after having lost her husband just three months after arriving in Malaysia 18 years ago.

“My father left Korea to join his Korean business partner here in Malaysia but sadly he died in an accident soon after we arrived here.

“My mother was a housewife then and with the little that she had, she opened a food stall called Ari Lang in Lot 10 selling Korean food.

“After two years, she sold the business and worked at the Halla Korean factory as its caterer before opening this restaurant in 2000,” Shin said.

Kim smiled and nodded her head throughout our conversation as she does not speak English.

Her eldest daughter Hyun Suk has been her right hand throughout the years, dealing with the administrative part of the business.

Besides Kim, the outlet also has executive chef Kim Guy Hyun to dish out the traditional Korean fare.

“Our restaurant is open 365 days a year and my mother is at the restaurant from as early as 9am to closing time so her customers are assured that she lends her personal touch to their food,” said Shin with a pleasant smile.

The outlet also serves Japanese cuisine for those who want a mix of Korean and Japanese.

RESTORAN KUNG JUNG (halal), Lot No 3.1, At PNB Darby Park, Jalan Binjai, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2166 7181) Business hours: noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Monday to Saturday, 6pm to 10.30pm on Sunday.