Fish Head Noodles Second To None

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG


JUST when I thought I had seen them all, my colleague James Lam, an avid foodie, invited me to have lunch with him.

“Eh Sam ah, you free or not? We go to Jalan Kuchai Lama for makan?” he said. I needed no coaxing, it is always an honour to makan with Lam because he goes to great lengths for a decent meal.

Lam and I had earlier met over breakfast and our topic of conversation was ... what else, but food, glorious food!

After making the necessary arrangements, the man said he knew of a secret spot that served yee thau mai (fish head noodles). I had been alerted to many such makan places but, according to Lam, this was one of the “unspoilt” places that I must visit.


Yummy: The Udang Galah beehoon is a notch better than the fish head noodles.

“It’s not commercialised yet and very few food critics know of it. So, we must check it out before its prices go up — especially after a review is posted in the newspaper.”

So, we met up for lunch on a Friday. The place is about a 15-minute drive from Section 16 in Petaling Jaya. Lam manouvred his vehicle through a series of housing estates before we ended up at Jalan Lazat, which is located near Happy Garden in Old Klang Road.

To the uninitiated, this is one place at the fringe of the city centre where there are plenty of good makan places. I can go on and on about the food here, but this week’s pick is a yee thau mai stall at the Choy Kei coffee shop in Jalan Lazat.

If you are not familiar with the housing estates in Old Klang Road, finding this coffee shop can be a real adventure. The landmark here is a row of hawker stalls; Choy Kei is the last corner coffee shop if you are coming from the direction of Happy Garden.

This housing estate brought back plenty of memories of the time when I was a secondary school kid. This was the neighbourhood my friends and I visited when they first acquired their driving licences.

High school romance was blooming and if you were a schoolboy with wheels, your social circle expanded tremendously. And, during the Chinese New Year, there was no shortage of red packets when we went visiting around the area.

My first encounter with the good food here was some 18 years ago. I was introduced to a steamed fish head stall in Jalan Lazat and well, that was the first and last time I visited the place. So, Lam’s invitation held sort of a “Happy Garden revisited” nostalgia for me.

At Choy Kei, he wasted no time in ordering the yee thau mai.


Creamy and tasty: A small portion of Choy Kei’s fish head noodles.

Now, prices here are at a premium. For RM6.80, you get a bowl of fish head noodles with extras like the yee wat (fish paste) thrown in.

To my surprise, the noodle dishes can cost up to RM13.50. I asked the food handler what the extras were and he said: “Ah, for the highest price, you get halved udang galah and yee wat along with the fish head.”

I found his description satisfactory and when the noodles arrived, I found it to be one of the best fish head noodles I had tasted so far.

The gravy was creamy as expected, and the portion of noodles and fish head were generous, so there was hardly anything that I could complain about.

Lam also ordered the sang har mai (prawn beehoon), which was a notch better than the fish head beehoon.

I had fresh sauteed udang galah halves and the the prawn’s aromatic flavour blended with the evaporated milk gravy to give it oomph! At RM11.50 a helping, this is the second most expensive noodle dish in the house.

Now, the “secret” ingredient that made my yee thau mai experience at Choy Kei complete was the chee yau char (pork cracklings).

No other fish head beehoon stall can come close to what this coffee shop offers and so far, it is the top contender for the best yee thau mai in the Klang Valley.

I was also told by Lam that there is a dancing cook in this coffee shop. Ah, well, that will be my excuse for a follow-up visit to Choy Kei.

If you plan to head to Jalan Lazat, be sure to get there early as the coffee shop is usually packed during lunch hour.

The GPS coordinates for Choy Kei coffee shop are 3 4’ 35” N, 101 40’ 43” E. This time round, I will be a bit generous by including the map from my Nokia maps screenshot that cost me a bomb for your reference.

And lastly, the fish head beehoon is a lunchtime treat, so be advised on the timing, and to all you foodies out there — happy hunting!

Eating out

Popular Peking Duck



CHEF Wang Qiaoyu of Hilton Shanghai is back at Toh Yuen Chinese Restaurant in Hilton Petaling Jaya to cook his Peking Duck speciality. The promotion runs until April 15. Priced at RM108++ per bird, the Peking Duck is served in different styles. The skin is sliced thinly and wrapped with a specially-made pancake. The meat is then prepared into Stir Fried Diced Duck with Lettuce, Sauteed Shredded Duck Meat with Bean Sprouts, Stir Fried Duck with Bell Pepper in Black Bean Sauce and Wok Fried Noodles with Shredded Duck. The promotion also offers a seven-course set menu priced at RM106++ per person, featuring Peking Duck, Braised Shark’s Fin Soup with Eight Treasures and Fish Lips, Wok Fried Fresh Scallop and Prawns with XO Sauce, Steamed Red Garoupa with Light Soya Sauce, among others. For reservations, call 03-7955 9122 ext 4073/4.

F1-inspired dishes



WITH the Malaysian F1 Grand Prix season zooming into town, Spice of India at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur is giving F1 fans another reason to celebrate, with an exclusive premium menu. Only from April 1 to 5, diners can enjoy an exclusive three-course meal featuring authentic Indian specialities for a one-time offer of RM89++ per person (minimum two pax) in conjunction with Pavilion Pit Stop. The meal flags off with Subzi Samosa and the delightfully light Mulligatawny Soup and continues with a medley of flavours like Chicken Tandoori, Rogan Josh and Bendi Masala, matched with either a serving of chawal or naan bread fresh from the tandoor. The meal ends on a sweet note with Mango Kulfi. For reservations, call 03-2143 3669.

Exhilarating F1 drinks



CATCH the action at Monkey Bar with a range of exciting concoctions specially created for all F1 fans. There is Sepang Corner that is concocted from vodka, vanilla syrup, fresh milk and peanut butter, which is hearty and flavourful with a punch to it. For coffee lovers, the Grandstand mix comes highly recommended. This aromatic brew has shots of freshly-brewed espresso, cinnamon, kahlua, gin and a citrus touch, thanks to addition of orange peel. For teetotallers, there is Sauber, which is made up of a combination of raspberry, blueberry and peach puree topped up with sweet soda and sprigs of mint leaves. For a refreshing change, Chequered Flag is the drink for you as the appetising mocktail contains pineapple, mango and calamansi juice, topped with juicy cherries for that extra bite. These April specials are priced at RM18++ for mocktails and RM25++ for cocktails. The outlet also serves mouth-watering snacks and bites and is well known for its pizzas and chicken wings. For reservations, call 03-4042 9888 ext 1027.

CAVA, 71 Jalan Bangkung, Bukit Bandaraya, KL (Tel: 03-2093 6637). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat, lunch (noon-3pm); dinner (6pm till late); Sun & Public Hols (6pm till late). Pork-free. Serves Catalonian-style cuisine, noted for its seafood and rice dishes. Expect good wines and an extensive tapas selection.

SAFFRON MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO, Unit 18 - G, Jalan Solaris 4, Solaris Mont’ Kiara, KL (Tel: 03-6203 0145). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). Serves Mediterranean cuisine with most of its dishes cooked with olive oil. Among the famous Mediterranean dishes are tapas, grilled and barbecued items and pasta. The flavours of Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Italy, Spain and other Mediterranean nations are available under one roof. Delicious breads are made in house, and served with a special dip.

BAR B.Q. PLAZA, Lot 338a, 1st Floor, Rainforest, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ (Tel: 03-7727 8148). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). Non-halal. A type of sauce sampled at a restaurant in Thailand led Bar B.Q Plaza’s owner to set up shop here. The sauce makes all the difference. Set lunch at RM9.90 on weekdays.

SPICE OF INDIA, Level 4, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL (Tel: 03-2164 9221). Business Hrs: Daily (11.30am-10.30pm). Pork-free. Spe­cialises in Northern and Southern Indian cuisine. Recommended dishes include Pomfret Tandoori, Leg of Lamb, Fish Head Curry, Lobster Tandoori and King Prawn Tandoori.

TAISHI TEPPANYAKI, Subang Business Centre, 34 Jalan USJ 9/5P (Tel: 03-8025 9603). Business Hrs: Tues-Sun, lunch (11.30am-3pm), dinner (6pm-10pm). Pork-free. Numerous teppanyaki sets, ranging in price from RM10.80 to RM24.80, complemented with homemade sauces. Four types of course meals at RM34.80 each.

CANTON FARE, 71G Jalan Medan Setia 1, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2093 5279, 03-6203 0223 - Solaris Mont’ Kiara). Business hours: Daily (11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10.30pm). Non-halal. Cantonese cuisine served hot from the wok is available in a variety of cooking styles. Famous for its glistening barbecued pork, roasted pork, whole roasted goose, signature pork ribs and dishes cooked with crab meat with egg white.

CICCIO RISTORANTE BAR PIZZERIA, 15 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2141 8605). Business Hrs: Daily (5pm-12.30am). Kitchen closes at 10.30pm but pizza is available till midnight. Pork-free. A casual, intimate and inviting place with wood-fired gourmet pizzas, homemade pasta and steaks.

SURE PIZZA, P37, Plaza Damas Ground Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre, Jalan Hartamas 1, KL (Tel: 03-6201 6014). Business Hrs: Daily (10am-10pm). Pork-free. Cosy Italian restaurant serving authentic Italian food and thin-crust pizzas. Deliveries confined to Plaza Damas.

DEPARTURE LOUNGE, B/G/20, Jalan PJU 1/43, Aman Suria, PJ (Tel: 03-7803 3418). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat (8am-7pm); Sun & Public Hols (10am-5pm). Pork-free. Offers hearty breakfast sets with three, five and seven items. Also has a small selection of salads, pasta and sandwiches. Serves various kinds of coffee using Illy beans from Italy.

FISHERMAN’S COVE, LG10, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2782 3848). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Halal. The restaurant is designed as a boathouse and is tastefully decorated with sails and lamps to re-create a fishing village. The focus is on seafood, prepared in an open kitchen.

EAT WORK SHOP, 9 Jalan Peguam U1/25, Glenmarie Business Park, Shah Alam (Tel: 03-5569 7763). Business Hrs: Mon-Sat (11am-11pm). Pork-free. Boasts a swanky and trendy minimalist décor. Australian-influenced cuisine with a touch of Asian flavours.

CHILI’S GRILL & BAR, Lot 346B, Level 3, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, KL (Tel: 03-2164 1400). Business Hrs: Sun-Thurs (11am-11pm); Fri, Sat & Public Hols (11am-midnight). Halal. Serves American and Mexican food with specialities homemade hi-fi bread and Multon Chocolate Brownie. Offers a great view of KLCC’s fountain.

Korean Flavours To Whet The Palate

By ESTHER CHANDRAN


SOME of us may have read fables on acorns and oak trees and know that the mighty oak grows from little acorns but there is definitely not an acorn in sight, here in the tropics.

So, when Mary Shin Mi Suk explained that the brownish jelly like dish among the Korean side dishes before us was made of acorn powder, our ears pricked up.


Wide variety: The assorted barbecue fare at Restaurant Kung Jung.

Since acorns are not available locally, Shin’s mother Kim Jong Oh and her sister Hyun Suk return to South Korea twice a year to get essential Korean ingredients like acorn and sesameleaves, cutlery and spices for their outlet.

“We buy organic Korean acorns that can cost up to RM200 per kg and it is very expensive, just like the sesame leaves,” said Shin.

Once we learnt of its price, we quickly cleaned up the plate so as not to be wasteful.

The not too bad tasting acorn jelly dish (Dotorimuk) topped with seaweed is relished with soya sauce.

Besides the acorn jelly, we had several other side dishes like potato salad, marinated cockles, stir fried anchovies, fresh kimchi, regular kimchi, seasoned tofu, stir fried fish, garlic sticks and seaweed for bites as we watched waiters prepare our barbecue stove with special non-smoke emanating Korean coal.

Kim served us two types of kimchi - fresh kimchi and the preserved one so we could distinguish between the two.


Hot bowl: The Dol Sot Bi Bim Bam is a rice dish with spinach, white cabbage, chilli powder and raw egg which is quickly mixed at the table so the egg cooks in the hot rice.

The vegetable texture of the former was firmer, its spices raw and vibrant as we alternated between the two tastes, growing fond of the fresh version with each renewed experience.

Kimchi, Mary said was made of vegetables (usually cabbage), chilli powder, salt and garlic.

“Back in South Korea at the onset of winter, we make a lot of kimchi and we bury the kimchi container into a big hole in the ground and the snow helps keep the vegetable cold while it ferments.

“Koreans say that kimchi prepared during this period is the best,” Shin said as she served us Korean Raspberry Wine, Gold Korean Plum Gold Wine and Soju.

Here’s some good news - the variety of side dishes change daily and are complimentary.

There was plenty of garlic on our table and I enjoy the pungent herb.

Shin said Koreans love garlic and that 80% of their dishes had garlic in them.

We were having the Modum Koo Ee (assorted grilled barbeque) that consisted of fresh spare ribs, fresh sirloin, marinated spare ribs, marinated rib eye, char broiled marinated cuttlefish, prawns and scallops.

While waiting for the stove to heat up, the kitchen served the familiar Korean-style Pancake (Pah Jeon) that was aromatic with scallion and seafood.

With hard to grip stainless steel chopsticks, the omelette pancake was delicious with or without its accompanying sauce.

As the restaurant caters to locals, don’t be surprised to see a sauce laden with chilli padi served alongside.

The Chab Chae is lightly stir fried potato noodles with assorted vegetables in light sweet soy sauce that resembles the local stir fried glass noodle dish.

The aroma of the barbecued items, grilled before us, wafted in the air.

The grilled fare, be it the marinated or unseasoned meats, were as good as they smelt.

At the end of our barbecue experience, Shin brought in bowls with more Korean food.

The cold buckwheat noodles (Mool Naeng Meon) is a serving of fine noodles with mustard and vinegar.

Although the noodles were nice, it wasn’t exactly my cup of tea to have cold noodles shock my palate after the hot sizzling barbecue experience.

The other bowl (Dol Sot Bi Bim Bam) contained rice with spinach, white cabbage, chilli powder and raw egg which is quickly mixed at the table so the egg cooks in the hot rice.

The outlet, in its ninth year is a testament of Kim’s success after having lost her husband just three months after arriving in Malaysia 18 years ago.

“My father left Korea to join his Korean business partner here in Malaysia but sadly he died in an accident soon after we arrived here.

“My mother was a housewife then and with the little that she had, she opened a food stall called Ari Lang in Lot 10 selling Korean food.

“After two years, she sold the business and worked at the Halla Korean factory as its caterer before opening this restaurant in 2000,” Shin said.

Kim smiled and nodded her head throughout our conversation as she does not speak English.

Her eldest daughter Hyun Suk has been her right hand throughout the years, dealing with the administrative part of the business.

Besides Kim, the outlet also has executive chef Kim Guy Hyun to dish out the traditional Korean fare.

“Our restaurant is open 365 days a year and my mother is at the restaurant from as early as 9am to closing time so her customers are assured that she lends her personal touch to their food,” said Shin with a pleasant smile.

The outlet also serves Japanese cuisine for those who want a mix of Korean and Japanese.

RESTORAN KUNG JUNG (halal), Lot No 3.1, At PNB Darby Park, Jalan Binjai, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2166 7181) Business hours: noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Monday to Saturday, 6pm to 10.30pm on Sunday.

Always A Delight

By FARIDAH BEGUM


Soaked brown squid with water convolvulus in a sweet spicy sauce is a great appetiser.

Soaked brown squid is a delicacy that often innocently makes it way on to the dining table and steals the thunder from other dishes.

Often cooked in a spicy sambal and devoured with Nasi Lemak or plain rice, it is also a wonderful appetiser in the form of the Malaysian favourite, Sotong Kangkung. No food court or hawker joint is complete without this on the menu.

What must be right is the sauce, which is not unlike the sweet bean sauce that comes with your chee cheong fun and this version has either ground peanuts or lots of roasted sesame seeds.

The squid must also be done well. Sometimes, the squid can be a pure let-down, especially if it becomes soft and without bite.

Crunchy and thick, you are on your way to more than just a good plate of appetiser with the dish.

Apparently from reading about Malaysian food, we found that sotong kangkung is very popular in Sabah and Sarawak and they have a good number of stalls that sell this fare, although some have commented that it is a tad too sweet as compared to the ones in the Peninsular. Whatever, it is the tastebuds of individuals and different people will taste different degrees of sweetness and saltiness in the same plate of food.

While many have responded to our sms call last week, here are just a few good places to look for your sotong kangkung.


Sotong kangkung rebus: A delicious snack food.

At the Grace Point and Bukit Padang in Kota Kinabalu, the sotong kangkung comes highly recommended as the portions are generous and the sotong done just right to provide bulk and crunch. The kangkung or water convolvulus is also very fresh and blanched just enough to maintain a good crunch for vegetable lovers.

In Kuching Sarawak, the Kuching Open Air market also has a stall selling sotong kangkung and is said to be quite good too. The Hui Sin food court here also has a sotong kangkung stall that serves an authentic version of this simple fare and is said to come with a generous sprinkling of roughly ground peanuts.

In the Peninsular, sotong kangkung is a very popular evening and dinner dish among friends, hence it being more commonly sold at night than during the day.

In the north, specifically in Gurun, Kedah, Kedai Kopi New Light, which is opposite the Gurun Magistrate’s Court at 294, Main Street, the sotong kangkung is a must as it is said not only the sauce is good, it is the kangkung that makes all the difference!

At Madras Lane, well-known previously for the exotic meats that were sold here, there is a stall that serves a good sotong kangkung and assam laksa here.

The portions are big and is good to share, besides the gravy here, one of the most important components to hold the dish together, is very tasty, so say those who have gotten a taste of it as it is a non-halal stall.

The eat street on Jalan Sayur in Pudu, which was featured in last week’s Sunday Metro, also has a stall selling sotong kangkung and again, we are told that the dish has been constant in taste as the years evolved.

For those in Petaling Jaya, drop by Tony’s char kway teow at Store 1073, Uptown Hawker Stall in the Uptown Centre of Damansara Jaya, Petaling jaya, and here, you will find the sotong kangkung, although many say it tastes better when had with the char kway teow than on its own.

The Pantai Remis Kopitiam with origins from Perak at the IOI Mall in Puchong also has sotong kangkung on its menu and is said to be as good as those sold in the open air stalls.

Further south at the Neighbourhood Coffeeshop in Taman Equine, Seri Kembangan, one of the many stalls here sell sotong kangkung all day long and is said to be popular with the residents around.

Crossing the Selangor border and moving down south, a stop at the back alley on Jalan Bunga Raya will bring you to a stall that serves an authentic sotong kangkung, Malacca style.

Spicy and sweet with loads of brown squid, it is delicious and you may not want to share. Again, the sauce makes it good.

In Johor, at the Tepian Tebrau, most Johoreans get their sotong kangkung fix here, again with the sauce being the source of this enjoyment.

Old School Meals

Compiled by RENITA CHE WAN


THIS may not be the discovery of the year, but it may as well be the rediscovery of the year.

One rainy Saturday night, en route to Jalan Alor’s Wong Ah Wah in Kuala Lumpur for dinner with the gang, blogger qwazymonkey suddenly thought of Woo Lan Restaurant.


Tasty variety: The different dishes you can find at Woo Lan Restaurant.

To his surprise, none of his friends have ever been to (or heard of it for that matter) this legendary restaurant. So, they made a detour and headed for Brickfields.

Woo Lan, which is housed in a nice air-conditioned and brightly lit establishment, is tucked nicely in a quiet corner of Brickfields.

It wasn’t until a couple years back when qwazymonkey started getting his regular blind-massage therapies that he found this place again by chance.

“After a session, I was hungry and stepped into this place. I looked around and saw some rather familiar dishes. I happily ordered and ate. I’ve only returned once again for dinner out of laziness to go any where else after a massage,” he wrote.

Now his decision to dine at Woo Lan Restaurant was no mistake. He ordered everything that was recommended by the “Si Tau Poh”, and no matter how many dishes he ordered, the Fried Mee Suah is still a must.

“This has got to be one of my all-time favourite noodle dishes. I do miss it every now and then, but never really took the effort to get my butt here ever since I stopped my massage sessions.

“It’s a simple dish and subtle in presentation. But do not be fooled by its unappetising appearance. This signature dish is quite the con-artist. The flavourful combination of gluten starch, Chinese cabbage, pork, prawn, crunchy seaweed, fried egg that were held together by ‘some’ lard is just droolsome,” he added.

All in all the dinner was satisfying. He couldn’t agree more with his friend when she said that the place serves rather traditional village-tasting food and it’s not very often that he gets such cooking in this big city of ours.

Based on the taste of the food alone, they wouldn’t mind driving out of the way every now and then to savour some “good ol-skool” (old-school) dishes.

“Despite whatever I’ve said, do try the food there when you can. Just do not expect to pay the price of your neighbourhood Tai Chow.”

Woo Lan Restaurant is located at No.19, Jalan Scott, Brickfields, 50470 Kuala Lumpur.

Fish On Your Plate

By FARIDAH BEGUM


You may not like fish but it’s a different story when you choose fish and chips.

I HATE fish.” Such is the common exclamation by most children whenever parents try to feed them this good nutritional piece of meat that contains some of the nutrients we need.

However, these battles come to a complete end when you serve fish and chips.


Yummy: Fish and Chips is a popular take-away food which originated in Britain.

In fact, when you take the children out to a restaurant that serves Western food, almost on a score of two to one, they would settle for fish and chips.

No, it is never the chips that is the drawing factor but rather the tart and sinfully looking tartare sauce that draws most appetites to fish and chips.

Its creamy and sourish taste tends to send most people eating up their meal and before they realise how they had spent the last five minutes totally in tune with their fish and chips and not with the conversation swirling around them, the fish is gone and so are the chips!

According to Wikipedia: “Fish and chips (sometimes written ‘fish ‘n’ chips’) is a popular take-away food which originated in the United Kingdom. It consists of deep-fried fish (traditionally cod, haddock or flounder) in batter or breadcrumbs with deep-fried chipped (slab-cut) potatoes.

“Popular tradition associates the dish with the United Kingdom; and fish and chips remains very popular in the United Kingdom and in areas colonised by people from the UK in the 19th century, such as Australia, New Zealand, and parts of North America (New England, the Pacific Northwest and Canada generally). Fish and chips also have considerable popularity in the Republic of Ireland, and South Africa. Establishments in Denmark and in some coastal towns in Norway serve fried fillets. In the Netherlands, the popular deep-fried, battered fillet dish called lekkerbek sometimes appears served with chips.

“The British usually serve thicker slabs of potato than the ‘french fries’ popularised by major multinational US hamburger-chains. In their homes or in non-chain restaurants, people in or from the USA may eat a thicker type of chip, called ‘home fries’ or ‘steak fries’.”

Fish and Chips is usually on the menu of most coffee houses and restaurants, especially those who serve both local and western cuisine.

If you are looking for some good old fish and chips, try Coliseum Cafe in Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Kuala Lumpur, which serves authentic English fare.

One of the latest in the capital city is the dish’s namesake – The Magnificent Fish and Chips Bar at 28 Changkat Bukit Bintang, 50200 Kuala Lumpur. True to its name, the place certainly lives up to its British attitude and it is definitely as noisy and brash as any English pub would get. Though a tad pricey, the fish and chips here is authentic with choices of barramundi, cod, dory and salmon for the meal.

The Fish & Co at Bangsar Village also serves a nice and crunchy fish and chips.

The Manhattan Fish Market, which has several outlets at Mid Valley Megamall, Alamanda Putrajaya, Subang Parade, Suria KLCC, Ikano Power Centre, Sogo Kuala Lumpur, Penang and even in Johor Baru, serves fresh and good seafood but the fish and chips is especially good here.

Outside of the Klang Valley, the Bayleaf Restaurant and Shahzan Inn in Kuantan both serve commendable Fish and Chips. At Bayleaf, the fish comes enclosed in a crunchy batter while the chips is your common shoe-string fries.

However, at Shahzan Inn, the fish and chips comes with two large fillets, enveloped in a thin and tasty batter while the chips are thick and soft inside. For indulgence, request for extra tartare sauce to eat with your chips.

If you are on a shoe-string budget and want to serve good fish and chips at home, shop at the frozen department of the supermarket for a choice of fish in batter by Gorton’s, an imported brand or go Malaysian with our Malaysian brand Pacific West, which has many varieties of fish in batter. A good try would be the Alaskan Pollock, which comes in a true British batter and tastes exactly how fish and chips ought to.

Whatever you choose, don’t forget to balance off your meal with some greens and lots of water to wash away the grease.

Splendid Spread

Street Food


PENANG
NEW LANE
Open 1pm-late. Traders’ day off varies but most close on Wednesdays

NEW Lane is one of the best places in town to get a feel of Penang’s grastronomic offerings. With about 40-odd stalls operating on both sides of the lane, the choices are seemingly endless – from noodles to satay, freshly made apom balik to piping hot kuih dadar. Take a walk around the stalls before making that difficult choice of what to eat.



Many come here for the intestine porridge or chee cheong chook. Pork intestines are marinated in sugar and sauces and then smoked before being deep fried. The crunchy, peppery intestines are served on mushy, smooth porridge with offal added. The only stall that offers this opens at 1pm, and the porridge usually runs out by 7pm.

Also good is the pork satay from the Satay & Ayam Panggang stall (opposite Maxim Cafe). The pork satay is succulent while the peanut sauce (tangy thanks to the addition of tamarind juice) will perk up your appetite for more!

Some stalls on New Lane open early in the afternoon, while most only start their business after 5pm.


KAMPUNG BARU, KUALA LUMPUR
Nasi Lemak Raja Abdullah
15, Jalan Raja Abdullah, Kg Baru
Open 7am-10pm. Closed during Raya

THE first thing you’ll sniff out at this 21-year-old stall is the aromatic rice, steamed in a wooden bucket with coconut milk and pandan leaves. Join the morning queue to pick what you fancy – chicken rendang, sambal sotong, etc.



The sambal ikan bilis here tends to be sweet rather than spicy. The deep-fried paru (beef lungs) are especially good, served with a mix of shredded deep-fried lemongrass, ginger and galangal. You’ll need to get here early if you’re after this dish, as it tends to run out quickly.

For lunch, a variety of dishes are served, including asam pedas and masak lemak cili api, as the owners hail from Malacca. In the evenings, nasi lemak is served from 5pm.


KOTA BARU
Yati Ayam Percik
847, Jalan Long Yunus (Jalan Pekeliling). Tel: 09-747 9867
Open Saturdays to Thursdays noon-11.30pm / Fridays 3-11.30pm

SURE, the ayam percik here is fantastic – but the nasi kerabu is simply to die for! Most folks swear by it. The fluffy rice comes with heaps of vegetables such as bean sprouts, finely cut cabbage and polygonum leaves, as well as budu (fermented anchovy sauce), kerisik, sambal and fish crackers. Mix it all together for a wonderful burst of flavours in your mouth.

There are three colours of rice available – white, yellow and blue. The daging bakar or roast beef is tender and aromatic. Kerutup ayam – a type of rendang synonymous with the East Coast – is another good choice; the chocolate-coloured kerutup is full of spices with a tinge of sweetness but isn’t spicy.

Pesto-Infused Dishes

By ESTHER CHANDRAN


ISN’T it amazing how the combination of the simplest of ingredients like pine nuts, basil, extra virgin olive oil, garlic and cheese makes a rather versatile sauce?

Ardent cooks would have recognised these as essential ingredients in making pesto — the likeable green sauce covered in olive oil that is excellent on toasted bruschetta, pizza or tossed in a dish of pasta.


Crunchy toast: Homemade bread with Feta Cheese and Black Olives is an ideal starter while waiting for your main course to arrive.

This flavoursome paste is also incredible when just a dollop is spread over barbecued meats and fish or grilled prawns and steak.

Or take it a step further and add a spoonful to mashed potatoes or baked ones and it is also a good accompaniment to scrambled eggs and omelette.

Whether you call it a paste or sauce, it originates in Genoa, Italy, deriving its name from the Latin root word pestle which means to crush or grind.

Of course, to make grass green pesto, fresh basil is a must.

And if you’re still scratching your head trying to figure out what it tastes like, perhaps the folk at Porto Romano might win you over with some of their new and likeable pesto favourites.


Canadian treat: Canadian oysters are served on a bed of ice with lemon wedges and the Porto Romano chilli sauce offering a spicy tangy taste to the freshly shucked oysters.

Owner Eddie Wong confesses his deep liking for pesto-infused dishes.

“For the longest time, I have wanted to include pesto dishes on the menu but all the ingredients required to make it are imported. Hence, costing was always a concern.

“But we decided to introduce pesto dishes because we knew our customers would take to them,” he said when dining at the dimly lit upper floor of the Mont Kiara outlet recently.

He said both the pesto dishes - Spaghetti with Pesto Sauce and Chicken Strips and Pizza with Pesto and Chicken had become fast favourites with those who had tried them.

Parmesan cheese, he said was the preferred cheese in the outlet’s pesto sauce.


Hearty oxtail: This Oxtail Soup is a new addition on the soup section at Porto Romano. It is robust in flavour as the tomato-based soup is aromatic and flavourful.

The spaghetti strands came coated with pesto in extra virgin olive oil and chicken strips proved to be the perfect choice as the additional flavour.

We were indeed merry when we bit into the thin crust pizza, sharing notes on the delightful effect of pesto against the famous Italian flat bread.

Another addition to Porto Romano’s plethora of dishes is the aromatic tomato-based and herb- flavoured Oxtail Soup.

It is as the menu says, hearty and homey because it was easy to get hooked to the succulent soup with each spoonful.

But before we got down to the heavyweights of the night, Wong and his wife Sonila Hajderasi pampered us with a serving of freshly shucked greyish white Canadian oysters priced at RM42+ per half dozen.

As six pieces would have been inadequate for our party of five, a dozen of those wonderful oceanic treasures nicely propped up on a bed of ice were placed before us.

Lemon wedges accompanied the serving of oysters which were good with a touch of tang and even better with a drop or two of homemade Porto Romano chilli sauce.

I knew that Wong would not be serving the Stinco d’Agnello - Lamb Shank, my personal favourite on the main course but would instead unveil a main course I had never tried before.

It turned out to be the Moussaka, a classic Mediterranean favourite that is best known in its Greek form.

Hajderasi, who is Albanian, is familiar with the dish as it is also part of her cuisine.

Bearing similarity to the Greek version, the Moussaka is a generous serving with minced lamb, eggplant, capsicum, onions, carrot and garlic with a layer of bechamel with cheese to hide its rough texture.

With all that carbohydrates and meat, the Sole Fish Fillet grilled and served with lemon butter sauce lightened our load a little.

Of course, a meal is not complete until dessert shows itself and our meal ended with a rich and heavy Tiramisu.

The many paintings on the walls are by Hajderasi’s father who spent his recent holiday in Malaysia painting familiar scenes back in Albania and those of neighbouring lands.

The Mont Kiara outlet is the recent addition to the Porto Romano family. The other outlets are in Taman Tun Dr Ismail and Ampwalk (relocated from City Square).

RISTORANTE PORTO ROMANO, K-1, Mont Kiara Banyan, 28, Jalan Kiara, Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-6207 8171 - Mont Kiara, 03-2162 6799 - Ampwalk, 03-7710 0509 - Taman Tun Dr Ismail). Business hours: 11am to 11pm daily.

Cheap And Good Vegetarian Fare

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG


READER Phang Hui Leng wanted to know where she can find vegetarian chap-fan (economy rice) at dirt cheap prices. I received her e-mail recently and got cracking. As far as I know, there is one place in the shopping district of Kuala Lumpur that fits the bill.

It's located in a place called Kam Hor (golden river) in Jalan Sultan Ismail and yes, you guessed it right, it's Sungai Wang Plaza.

There, you can find a rooftop hawker centre that had been around for nearly 30 years.


Affordable: Le Tian vegetarian stall at Sungai Wang Plaza's rooftop hawker centre.

Today, it's still one of the hottest places in the city centre for cheap food.

Having worked in this area for three years, I found a vegetarian chap-fan stall called ‘Le Tian' at the far end corner near the shopping mall's lobby.

The food here is good and after a series of return visits, I still find it affordable and tasty. I also frequented this place occassionaly on Fridays taking advantage of the long lunch breaks.

The Sungai Wang rooftop hawker centre was also the place where I rekindled ties with my ex-schoolmate CK Ching. Ching, a regular at the stall said he was satisfied with the choice of dishes and usually satiated by a small serving of rice, tofu and vegetables.


Tasty: The vegetarian chap-fan from Le Tian costs RM5.50 a plate.

What suprised me at this stall was the wide range of vegetarian dishes. From stir-fried leafy vegetables to processed soya bean meals, there's enough variety to satisfy even the most fussy vegetarians.

And at prices below RM5 per plate (rice and a choice of two dishes), you could not complain. Highly recommended is the vegetable curry and fried Chinese cabbage with glass noodles.

Also on top of my list, is the vegetarian char siew (mock sugar-glaced roasted pork) and siew ngor (mock roast goose).

Since this is a self-service outlet, you just take what you want to eat and proceed to the counter and pay. Usually, my tab would come up to RM5.50 inclusive of a glass of Chinese tea.

I found this to be consistent throughout my visit to the stall. The stall opens for breakfast and is usually packed during lunch hour.

Just a block away from Sungai Wang Plaza, there's another vegetarian makan place.


Tasty: The vegetarian chap-fan from Le Tian costs RM5.50 a plate.

But this one is rather upscale, so, if you expect some good food, it can be found here.

My buddy Ching showed the way to the lower ground level of Low Yat Plaza. The eatery is called ‘Vegegood Restaurant' that serves a decent selection of local fare prepared a'la vegetarian. The person who manned the counter recommended their "Hainanese Chicken Rice" at RM5.50.

Since this is an upscale makan place, the average pricing for a plate of rice and dishes starts from RM5 and above. My buddy paid RM14 for two persons.

Now, compared with the rooftop in Sungai Wang Plaza, the Vegegood restaurant is a place where you can hangout and chit chat because it is a cozy environment.

To get to Sungai Wang Plaza, the fastest and most convenient way is to hop onto a KL-Monorail service to the Bukit Bintang station.

Once there, you could access the rooftop hawker centre on its fourth floor via a link bridge and elevator.

I believe address is not necessary since Sungai Wang Plaza is a well-known landmark in KL. For the Vegegood restaurant, it is located at Lot LG 13-15 in Plaza Low Yat.

To get there, take the KL-Monorail to the Imbi station.

Old Favourites At Coffee Shop

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG


THERE are plenty of good makan places in Jalan Imbi and let me start with a corner coffee shop located at the intersection of Jalan Walter Grenier and Jalan Imbi.

Called Win Heng Seng coffee shop, this landmark makan place has been around for decades.

But before I continue any further, let me tell you that this particular neighbourhood in Kuala Lumpur’s city centre was once plagued by crime.

The backlane where this particular coffee shop stands, was the scene of a fatal shootout between the cops and some robbers back in the mid-90s.


A well-known landmark: The corner coffee shop in Jalan Imbi.

And not long ago, a prominent businessman was shot and killed at a popular restaurant located two doors away.

So, if you are a fan of gangster movies that romanticised thugs and tough guys, Jalan Imbi is one of those places where you could still find some shady characters.

The neighbourhood’s violent past aside, Win Seng Heng coffee shop is well-known for three things. First, for its chee cheong fun stall on the left side of the shop’s entrance that’s said to be one of the best.

Then, the yuk-yeen fun (meatball noodles) is said to be one of the finest around and lastly, there is a Chinese confectionery shop that specialises in mini egg tarts.

One of my acquaintances who became a full-time ‘foodie’, Johnny ‘The Mouth’ (he never stops talking) Cheong concurred that the stall serves the best chee cheong fun.

Cheong added that the coffee shop had been refurbished with a new paint job since Jalan Imbi is within the proximity of the Bukit Bintang area.

“Eh Sam ah! When I was a rookie management staff at a bank in this neighbourhood ah, the Win Seng Heng coffee shop is my regular place lah. I eat there every morning.”


Egg-licious: These mini egg tarts are tasty!

Since relocating to Rawang, Cheong said he regularly makes a trip to the outlet on alternate weekends with his wife.

“Ah, this is also the place I met Rose, my wife lah. We use to share a plate of chee cheong fun lah.” Taking the cue from Cheong the romantic, I took Michelle, my wife to this coffee shop after making her walk nearly 1.2km around the Bukit Bintang area.

We arrived there on a late Saturday morning to savour the good hawker food here and lucky for us, there was a empty table in this packed eatery.

I ordered a bowl of yuk-yeen fun while Michelle went for the chee-yuk fun (pork noodles). Regretfully, I did not order the chee cheong fun as my bowl of noodles became the main order of the day.

Right at the far end of the coffee shop, I could see the stall owner of the meatball noodle working at a break neck pace - filling his orders as his Myanmar workers moved quickly to serve the waiting customers.

Back in the 80s, I patronised this coffee shop a couple of times and found that none of the old hands are working there anymore.

Chinese stall hands had been replaced by Cantonese-speaking Myanmar workers who are efficient and skillful in their trade.

Here, a bowl of meatball noodles costs RM5 per serving. I asked for a small bowl and my meal came complete with six pieces of meatballs including a few slices of siew cheong (roasted stuffed pork intestine) and yuk sway (minced pork).


Tasty: Win Seng Heng’s meatball noodles.

On a scale from 1 to 10 on my ‘Samoscale’, I’d say Win Seng Heng’s yuk yeen fun would come in at 7. Basically, I used my favourite stall in Lucky Garden, Bangsar as the benchmark.

Michelle on the other hand, wasn’t that lucky because her bowl of mee suah was lousy and expensive. At RM6 a bowl, all I can see was soup and a few strands of noodles.

So, lunch for two person including drinks was at RM13.80. I can’t complain because around Jalan Imbi, this is still one of the cheapest makan places around.

After our meals, Michelle went to the confectionary stall to buy two pieces of mini egg-tarts for RM1.20. Now, the best kept secret in this coffee shop - is the lady that sells siew pau (baked pork buns) and tann-tart (egg tarts).

By far, the tastiest confectionary that I’ve come across, we rounded up a dozen tarts before making our way out of the coffee shop.

Apart from the meatball noodles, chee cheong fun and egg tart, there’s also a couple who sold roasted pork and chicken rice.

They come highly recommended and to make up for the missed chee cheong fun session, I am planning to make a return trip to the neighbourhood because there is a famous stir-fried beef noodle shop around here.

Win Seng Heng coffee shop is just a 10-minute walk from the Bukit Bintang and Imbi monorail station and is open for breakfast and lunch daily.

Piping Hot Bowl Of Noodles

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG


OF ALL the Chinese noodle dishes, the yee thau mai (fish-head beehoon) is one of the most extraordinary.

It stands out because of its ingredients — salted vegetables, deep fried fish head, tomatoes and condensed milk.

I was first introduced to the yee thau mai by one of my ex-bosses Albert Lee (I used to work in a production house in SS19, Subang Jaya), who took me to a stall in Taman OUG, Old Klang Road.


Prompt service: Wah Cheong coffee shop is a popular eating place.

There, he treated me to a bowl of noodles at a corner coffeeshop and I was told that this was the best yee thau mai around the neighbourhood.

That was of course was nearly two decades ago.

Today, the fish head beehoon is a thriving food business. Even K.Y. Lau, my father in-law told me of some outlets specialising in the dish in Jalan Kuchai Lama.

I have yet to verify his findings and recently, Majorie Chiew, a colleague of mine tipped me off about a stall serving this particular dish in Section 17, Petaling Jaya.

“Eh Sam ah! Have you tried this place? I had a bowl of fish head noodles there and the portions are generous. You should check it out,” said Chiew.


Generous portion: Wah Cheong coffee shop’s yee thau mai.

So, on one Sunday afternoon, I went to the place in question and ordered a bowl of noodles. It’s not hard to find it because the stall is located at a corner coffeeshop called Wah Cheong.

Now, what I saw at the entrance of this makan place was a bit of a concern to me. Foreign workers hired by the stall owners were seen washing eating utensils, bowls and plates on top of a drain cover.

This is course, is the biggest letdown. Reservations aside, I proceeded with the order and waited patiently for my yee thau mai to be served.

While there, I could see a steady stream of people savouring their food during the lunch break. The variety of food worth mentioninig here are the yuk yeen fun (meatball noodles), chicken rice, and hakka noodles.

Chiew, who is a fellow food critic in The Star also mentioned about the yong tau foo, which is priced at 90sen a piece.

This, she added, is the cheapest stall around Petaling Jaya. Okay, back to the yee thau mai, I ordered a small bowl of noodles and delivery was prompt. In about 10 minutes, I was served with a piping hot bowl of noodles.

Now, in order not to attract too much attention, I took out my Nokia N-82 cellphone and started snapping some close-up shots with its built-in camera.

Now, on a scale from 1 -10, I would rate Wah Cheong’s yee thau mai a 6.

I found the fare to be pretty decent. Compared with the same dishes I had in Old Klang Road and Subang Jaya, this yee thau mai lacked a few things: coriander, spring onion leaves and soft tofu.

But then, there are different styles in serving the fish-head beehoon.

And at RM5 a treat, I’d say that the portion was generous.

Most fish head noodle stalls use freshwater fish like the Chinese carp and Giant snakehead as its main ingredients.

If you hate the “earthy” taste of freshwater fish, then this may be an acquired taste. All you need to do, is to dab it with some fiery cili api and soya sauce.

After leaving Wah Cheong’s coffeeshop for my office, I bumped into my colleague Peter Hoe, who is an old friend and was an intrepid traveller in his younger days.

Hoe, who was having lunch in a coffeeshop opposite Wah Cheong, actually saw me taking photos with my cellphone’s camera.

I told him my purpose and his reaction was: “Haiyaaa! If you love fish head noodles, I take you to Taman Desa lah bradder! The quality is second to none and nobody has disputed it.”

So, I took note of that because my next food trail would be with Hoe on the hunt for the best yee thau mai in the Klang Valley.

Now, to get to Wah Cheong coffeeshop, the best way is to car pool because parking is scarce. To locate this coffeeshop, head to Jalan 17/29. Lat, Long coordinates for this makan place are: 3°7’44”N 101°38’3”E.

So, have a great time finding this place and happy eating!

Barbecued To Perfection

By CHRISTINA LOW


IT IS never easy being the new kid on the block but Tempt a Tempt BBQ restaurant is already planning to cement its place in the hearts of foodies living in Cheras with its unique array of Chinese food.

“In the same way that particular brand names are used by the public to refer to certain products, we want ours to be synonymous with the kind of food we serve,” said the restaurant’s operations manager, Lee Chai Eng.

Lee said the three-month-old outlet in Cheras was the company’s first, and they had chosen to focus on value-for-money barbecue favourites.


All-in-one: Three Treasures BBQ Combo Rice comes with a small portion each of Roast Pork, Roast Duck and Honey Glazed Roast Pork

According to Lee, the barbecue dishes are all prepared to traditional recipes, but she declined to share anything on them despite my best cajoling efforts.

Lee lamented that many modern chefs often modified the taste of the food according to their personal preferences, so not many people really knew how the original dishes tasted, and thus, the restaurant kept strictly to recipes and ingredients that were said to be authentic.

“These days, chefs sometimes substitute some ingredients in a recipe, and then perhaps change them again. But, if we keep changing things, after a while the young would not know how original dishes taste, and in future, no one would know,” Lee said.

Lee said one of the authentic dishes served at the outlet was the specially prepared Roasted Suckling Pig, which was available in three sizes — small, medium and large — at RM128, RM148 and RM178 respectively. It is said to be a hit among the youngsters.


Chef’s recommendation: Crispy Boneless Chicken with Roast Almond Flakes.

“There are a number of Chinese festivals for which this dish is used for prayers or as gifts to a family.

“However, it would be a nightmare for the younger set to purchase it, as many simply do not know where to find it. But now they do,” said Lee.

Those who buy the suckling pig would be bringing the delicacy home in a specially designed red box to suit every occasion.

Gauging from the dishes chef Chan Weng San dished out during the review, patrons of the outlet will be in for a surprise. For a start, there is the array of dishes on the menu.


Cool treat: Vanilla with Longan Sea Coconut Smoothie.

Chan recommended the Deep Fried Lotus Slices and Crispy Boneless Chicken with Roast Almond Flakes.

The lotus root slices were crispy like potato chips, but Chan gave a twist to the vegetable by tossing it in mashed salted egg yolk, making it an instant favourite of mine.

The restaurant serves several varieties of porridge, such as Paddy Frog, Sliced Venison, Fish and Pork Liver, Abalone, Pork and Chicken.

Noodles like vermicelli, hor fun, yee mee, prepared in a variety of ways, as well as the traditional wanton noodles, are also available.

For dessert, you can choose from Mango Pudding, Peanut Paste, Glutinous Dumpling in Ginger Soup or Herbal Guiling Jelly.

> TEMPT A TEMPT BBQ, 24 Ground Floor, Jalan Manis 3, Taman Segar, Cheras, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-9132 0229). Business Hours: 10.30am to 10.30pm, daily. Non-halal.

Good Food And Travel Books

Story and photos by SALINA KHALID


WHEN one thinks of a departure lounge, images of an airport will come to mind. Yet the Departure Lounge in Mont Kiara has nothing to do with an airport. Besides, there is no airport in Mont Kiara.

Departure Lounge is the latest restaurant located at Solaris, in the Mont Kiara neighbourhood.

After stepping into the restaurant, one will understand why the place is named as such.

Pictures of famous destinations, tourist attractions as well as images of people and faces from all over the world decorate part of the wall as if to greet customers.


Mexican classic: Chicken Puebla comes with chunks of marinated chicken strips, grilled tomatoes and capsicum rolled in flour tortilla and with lettuce. It is served with nacho chips and salsa.

Then in a corner, there is a reading area complete with chairs.

Rows of various books on travelling, including travel guides and information books by the Lonely Planet fill up the shelves.

There are even memorabilia like wooden clogs from the Netherlands, foreign car licence plates and commercial plane models on display along with the books.

Some of the books and memorabilia belong to the owners, others given by customers.

“These are the things that I love most — travelling, eating and reading.

“And we have them all here, all three subjects combined under one roof at Departure Lounge,” said co-owner Loo Chee Wei.

Being an avid traveller, besides enjoying food and reading, Loo opened the restaurant to share his passion with others.

He said the idea for the restaurant was mooted several years ago, before the opening of the first outlet.

Initially, he wanted to open a bookstore selling just travel related books. But then he realised that the idea might not be feasible as the demand for such books was still limited.

“In England there are bookstores that specialise in selling travel books because of the demand but it is different here.

“But Malaysians love to eat so we decided to open an eatery with a bookstore as part of the offering,” he said.

Together with his sister Annie Loo and two others, he opened his first outlet in Aman Suria, Petaling Jaya three years ago,

His wife, Tan Sheau Yann, and friend Jordan Chin have joined Chee Wei and Annie at the new outlet in Mont Kiara since its opening at the end of last year.

Patrons can browse the travel books and information available at the reading corner while enjoying a cuppa.

“Some of the books have my handwritten notes and which might come in handy to travellers.

“It helps because it contains tips and additional information besides what is stated in the book,” he said, stressing that the books are just for reading. No borrowing is allowed,

If one were to look for local favourites like fried noodles or nasi lemak then they should look elsewhere as Departure Lounge only offers all-day breakfast and sandwiches.


Tempting: Bagel bacon butty with either beef or turkey bacon comes in a choice of plain or bluebery bagel.

“Yet customers have more than 30 varieties of sandwiches to choose from and plenty of breakfast selections.

“Originally we started off with six sandwiches but now it has developed into an extensive listing for customers to choose from.

“Some of these sandwiches were recommended by our customers,” he said.

Some of the regular customers still prefer to have the original sandwiches like classic tuna, roast chicken or simply the grilled cheese sandwich,

The sandwiches are available in a variety of bread, sauces and condiments. During the food review recently, Chee Wei presented the “Do it my way” breakfast - chicken puebla and bagel bacon butty.

He said the Do-it-my-way breakfast was a favourite during the weekend as customers could make their own.

“They can choose to have three, five or seven items from the 13 on the list. All they have to do is tick the items in the order card so that we can prepare them according to their liking.

“It is especially popular for those who want to have a late breakfast or as a meal during the day,” he said.

Patrons can choose chicken sausages, turkey ham, beef bacon, turkey bacon, baked beans, hash brown, sauteed mushrooms, scrambled, fried or half-boiled eggs, grilled tomato, fish fingers or pancake. The order comes with toast.

The chicken puebla makes for a hearty meal. A Mexican classic, the finger food comes with chunks of marinated chicken strips, grilled with tomatoes and capsicum to add more flavour.

Rolled in flour tortilla with lettuce, the chicken puebla is served with nacho chips and salsa.

In the Britain, the word butty itself refers to a sandwich.

And at Departure Lounge, customers who order bagel bacon butty can choose either beef or turkey bacon which is cooked with HP sauce and served with lettuce on either plain or bluebery bagel. They can also opt for English muffin instead of bagel.

“Not many people know what bagel is but it is a common western breakfast.

“Although it looks like a doughnut, bagel is heartier and very filling.

“Usually, people simply take it toasted with cream cheese spread for breakfast but here we have it as a sandwich,” he said.

To complete the meal, one must try the variety of brewed coffee available at the outlet.

The adventurous should try the Black Forest Mocha or the Pink Guava Latte.

Chee Wei said they used raspberry syrup and chocolate sauce for the black forest mocha with raspberry sauce on top and similarly, the pink guava latte also uses pink guava syrup as its ingredient.

Although the name may raise some eyebrows, many of those who have tried these keep coming back for more.

Departure Lounge, No. 10, Jalan Solaris 4, Solaris Mont’ Kiara, 50480, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:(03-6203 0362). Business Hours: 8am - 7pm (Monday-Saturday) and 10am-5pm (Sunday and public holidays).

Meat So Fresh And Tender

By YIP YOKE TENG


It is widely accepted that the longer meat is marinaded, the tastier it becomes. But that is not necessarily the case.

For meat that has never been frozen and when the right sauce is used, the natural sweetness appeals most. In cases like these, only minimal marination is required.


Let your hair down: Ambrozia Cafe offers the atmosphere for one to unwind while catering to functions.

Ribs@Oasis offers diners this experience by ordering fresh meat every day and its Grilled Pork Loin Chop will be the best choice to savour the natural flavour and texture.

The meat is marinaded with just a pinch of basic condiments upon order, then pan-fried, and served with a dash of homemade apple sauce that tempts with a hint of fruity sweetness.

The portion is so generous that it may intimate the small eaters, but the meat is a treat as it is tender and succulent, enhanced with streaks of fat that moisten the texture further.

“Back to the basics, that’s what we try to do and that echoes to our philosophy of a neighbourhood restaurant,” said general manager W.L. Kim.

Living up to its family-oriented concept, the decor is kept simple and comfortable with warm-coloured wooden furniture set against red walls and soothing lighting. Glass panels give the restaurant a touch of elegance.

After you are done with eating, take the stairs to the first floor where the Ambrozia Cafe is located, sink your body into the rattan couch and let your hair down with a selection of beverages amid soft music.


Creamy and smoky: Pan Fried Butter Fish is prepared with fish from Vietnam appreciated for its firm texture.

Ribs@Oasis first opened its door in July last year. The menu offers various ways to savour meat but one dish, Grilled Belly Oriental Pork Ribs, is the backbone of the menu.

The dish is served in a generous portion with a chunk of rib perched atop creamy mashed potato. Its brown gravy is sweet, smooth and rich in flavours that blend well with the ribs’ smoky aroma.

Those who just cannot get enough of pork can opt for the Ultimate Reversed Pork Burger, an unusual burger that has a bun sandwiched in between two patties. The restaurant also serves seafood dishes. The Seafood Olio Pasta is recommended for those who hanker for sea treasures, such as clam, mussel and prawn, pleasantly paired with light flavoured spaghetti to bring out the freshness.

Pan Fried Butter Fish, prepared with catches imported from Vietnam, will please those in favour of a creamy and buttery flavour.

To complement the meaty affair, Kim has concocted exotic beverages such as the Rib’s Delight, Rib’slicious and Ribstropic that not only lure with the vivid colours, but also their unconventional flavours.

Ribs@Oasis
Lot 1-1, BU4
Oasis Complex
1 Changkat Bandar Utama
47800 Bandar Utama
Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03-77298921
Business hours: 11am - 3pm (lunch) and 6pm to 10pm (dinner), opens daily.

Italian flavour with local flair

By ESTHER CHANDRAN


CHEF Ron Chew’s unwavering interest in cooking is an inherited passion as the head chef of Italian on Sixth remembers precious moments of cutting vegetables and washing pots at his father’s restaurant during his childhood.

This eventually led to him opening a burger and hot dog stand at the age of 19.

Good response to his home-made burgers from return customers, saw him taking his interest a step further when he joined the Shangri-la Hotel Kuala Lumpur.


Perfect start: The Anti Pasti Platter is an interesting combination.

He soon learnt to adjust to the fast-paced kitchen and has not looked back since.

“My career is a tribute to my father, Chew Sing Heng, who is in his 90s. In his prime, he was one of the best Hailam cooks around as he made tasty dim sum and char siew and his restaurant was popular with the locals,” Chew said proudly of his father who owned The Swiss Restaurant in Taiping decades ago.

The hotel experience paved the way for him to work at several local outlets including Chinoz and Citron before embarking on a culinary adventure in Italy where he would immerse himself in Italian cuisine.

In Tuscany, Chew worked 14 hours a day and learnt classic Italian dishes.

“Cooking is a passion and I have gained invaluable experience during my travels abroad.

“I was adventurous and willing to learn and, in life, if you want to learn you have to be humble to gain knowledge,” said Chew, who is the youngest in his family.

Cooking does run in the family because he has a brother who works at the butchery in Shangri-la, an older brother who is a chef at Eastin Hotel and a sister who is a pastry chef.

After 18 months of living, breathing, eating and speaking Italian, it was time to translate his culinary lessons and tantalise the taste buds of gourmands.

Sheer dedication to his profession is obvious as the chef is on his toes from the moment he steps into Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.

In addition to cooking and supervising his staff, Chew also dons his other hat as the outlet’s public relations officer, going from table to table to welcome and introduce customers to the myriad of culinary pleasures available.

He exudes confidence when dishing up fabulous Italian food and his intimacy with the food gives him the leverage to be creative.

“I am open to criticism as the feedback I receive helps me improve,” he said.

His flair with food was shown in the Anti Pasti Platter which was handsomely decked with Prosciutto Con Melone (air-flown Parma ham with rock melon and cracked pepper), Cupa Sante (scallops and bacon with balsamic glaze), Mushroom on Ciabatta with chardonnay cream and Empress Snapper with tropical tartar sauce.


Yummy treat: The lamb cutlets are prepared well with an tasty glaze to top it off.

We marvelled at the rich and tasty Crema Di Funghi Di Bosco prepared with a fusion of mushrooms but the liveliness of the Aglio E Olio Con Fruiti Di Mare sealed our faith in Chew’s cooking abilities.

Extra virgin olive oil coats each strand of the aromatic pasta with hints of garlic and chili padi emerging in the dish.

A sprinkling of roasted garlic is a neat trick, further enhancing the presentation and taste of the dish.

The manager said the inclusion of the bird’s eye chilli added a subtle twist that was enjoyed even by foreign diners.

The delivery of the carbonara laden with bacon was another winner as the thick sauce gently clung to the pasta.

Two pastas down and there was room for no more but Chew would not let us leave without tasting the Grigliata Agnello Con Salsa Mentha (chargrilled lamb cutlets with foie gras, mint and honey glaze) and Pan fried Pork Chops in Mushroom Sauce and Sage.

After satisfying our palates, Lumayan Mewah Sdn Bhd marketing manager Damian Lee whipped up Fragrance (an aromatic drink with lavender, green apple syrup, rum and lemon juice) and Bubble Yum (bubble gum syrup, Bailey’s and Triple Sec) readying us for the sweets of the night.

A sight to behold were the artistically designed Strawberry Coated with Belgian Chocolate, Panacotta and Caramelised Banana.

ITALIAN ON SIXTH (non-halal), LOT 6.12, Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2144 2992) Business hours: noon to 10pm, daily.

Eating Out

Sirloin Flavours



BE tempted by the succulent flavours of sirloin in different cuts from Australia and the US. Mark your calendars as Prime, Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur serves sirloin in a gastronomic affair this month. Meat enthusiasts are in for a treat with the Wagyu Sirloin with Butter Poached Chili Rosemary Fingerling Potato, Oven Dried Brisket Bacon Mille-Feuille with Potato Celery Mousseline, finished with a drizzle of Sarawak cracked peppercorn sauce. The Sirloin Sampler platter (with wagyu sirloin, Black Angus 200-day sirloin and pasture-fed sirloin) is another suggestion. The promotion is available for dinner until March 31. For reservations, call 03-2263 7434 or email dining.lmkl@lemeridien.com.

Peking Duck



THERE is no need to travel to Beijing for a taste of Peking duck. At Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s Xin Cuisine Chinese Restaurant, traditional Peking duck is the signature dish this month. The outlet’s Peking duck promotion has more to offer than just the duck-filled crepe delight as there is Stir Fried Sliced Duck Meat with Ginger Spring Onion, Double Boiled Soup Duck Bone with Preserved Vegetable, Wok Fried Rice with Diced Duck, Stir Fried Egg Noodles with Shredded Duck and Stir Fried Diced Duck Wrapped with Lettuce and more. The dishes are available for lunch and dinner at RM58++ per duck. For reservations, call 03-2144 2200 ext 2338 or 2144 8750.

Tea Treats



THE Lobby Lounge of Hotel Nikko Kuala Lumpur presents the opportunity for you to relax and indulge your tastebuds with the introduction of three afternoon tea sets - Local Afternoon, English Afternoon and Asian Afternoon. Available from Monday to Friday, from 2pm to 6pm, the Local Afternoon Tea serves delights like Cucur Udang with Chili Dip, Tauhu Sumbat, Golden Banana Fritters and Pulut Panggang. Apple Crumble Tart and Prune Spiral are some delightful finds on the English Afternoon Tea platter while the Asian Afternoon Tea offers Malaysian Durian Tempura, Thai Money Bag with Chili Dip, Vietnamese Spring Roll, China Egg Doughnut Roll with Sweet Sauce and plenty more priced at RM38++ per person. For reservations, call 03-2782 6168.

DRAGON-I RESTAURANT, Lot S313A, 2nd Floor, New Wing, One Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ (Tel: 03-7725 8822). Business Hrs: Weekdays (11am-10pm); Weekends & Public Hols (10.30am-10pm). Non-halal. Popular for minced meat dumplings known as siew long pau, caramel pork ribs, ma po taufu, chicken fillet and vegetarian dishes.

RED GINGER, 18G-M Medan Setia 2, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2095 3118). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (11.30am-3pm); dinner (6.30pm-10pm). Closed on Sun. Pork-free. A family-run business known for its good food, warm service and reasonable prices. Its cosy, laidback and unpretentious ambience make it the ideal venue for private functions. Red ginger plants line the front entrance. Small menu.

DEUTSCHES HAUS, 46 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2143 2268). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (noon-3pm); dinner (5pm-midnight). Non-halal. Serves authentic German cuisine with emphasis on sausages. Also stocks a wide range of excellent German beers. It has many speciality dishes.

LA GOURMET HOUSE, Lot G52, The Curve, Jalan PJU 7/3, Mutiara Damansara, PJ (Tel: 03-7725 4279). Business Hrs: Mon-Thurs (10am-10pm); Fri & Sat (10am-11pm). Halal. Special gourmet meals and speciality cakes are available daily for lunch and dinner. Gourmet merchandise like Dukka, herbs, spices, tea and coffee are also sold.

SENTIDOS TAPAS, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2145 3385). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Pork-free. Offers a relaxed atmosphere with a tantalising selection of hot and cold tapas. There is an extensive wine list and a range of imported beers.

LA COCINA & COPA DE VINO, 38 USJ 9/5P, UEP Subang Jaya (Tel: 03-8023 2395). Business Hrs: Restaurant, Mon-Sun, lunch (11am-3pm); dinner (6pm-midnight). Bar, Mon-Sat (5pm-1am). Halal. Indulge in a variety of authentic Spanish food in a comfortable and romantic environment. There is a wide selection of wines from Spain and all over the world. Salsa dance performances are on every Friday night.

MALAYAN AROMAS, Concourse Area, Ground Floor, City Square Centre, Jalan Tun Razak, KL (Tel: 03-2161 5094). Business Hrs: Daily (8am-10pm). Serves a good variety of quality local coffees especially blends with palm sugar. There is also an impressive selection of Malaysian favourites like Roti Malaya as well as Western and Italian dishes.

JOGOYA, T3, Relish Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2142 1268). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-2am). A Taiwanese chain specialising in brunch, lunch, dinner and supper buffets, priced at RM68++, RM78++ and RM88++ with a wide spread of seafood, Japanese, Western, Chinese and Indian dishes.

MUNAKATA JAPANESE RESTAU-RANT, Mezzanine Floor, Life Centre, 20, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL (Tel: 03-2166 7441). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (12.30-2.30pm); dinner (6.30pm-11pm). Pork-free. Serves authentic and premium sushi, teppanyaki, a la carte and seasonal dishes. Set lunch and dinner also available.

BASIL LEAF RESTAURANT, 35 Jalan Damai, off Jalan Tun Razak, KL (Tel: 03-2166 1689). Business Hrs: Tues-Sun, lunch (noon-2.30pm); dinner (6.30pm-10.30pm). Relax while you eat here, enjoying Thai and Indo-Chinese cuisine. Bungalow is divided into six sections, separately themed for value-added dining experience.

PANDAN LEAF RESTAURANT, Lot S28, 2nd Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Lebuh Bandar Utama, Bandar Utama Damansara, PJ (Tel: 03-7728 6078). Business Hrs: Daily (10am-10pm). Halal. Penang Nyonya fare using specially prepared spices.

THE SHIP, JALAN SULTAN ISMAIL, 40-1 & 40-2 Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL (Tel: 03-2141 8805) Business Hrs: Sun-Thurs (noon to midnight). Still a hit among locals and foreigners. Serves escargots, Chinatown Shark’s Fin with Crabmeat, steaks in 18 different styles. Wait staff dress according to rank like sailors on a ship.

TONY ROMA’S, LL1.43, Lower Level One, Sunway Pyramid Shopping Mall, Jalan PJS 11/15, Bandar Sunway, PJ (Tel: 03-7492 1188). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). The people at Tony Roma’s are passionate about their food, adhering to standards set by the Orlando training centre. Expect hefty portions and enjoy the selection of margaritas, wines, martinis and liqueur coffees.

RESTORAN PIZZA UNO, 18 Jalan Puteri 1/4, Bandar Puteri Puchong, Puchong. (Tel: 03-8062 2530). Business Hrs: Mon-Fri, lunch (noon to 4pm); dinner (6-11pm). Sat & Sun (noon to 11.30pm). This new outlet sports a cosy contemporary atmosphere for tapas and wines besides serving a wide range of pizzas, pastas and desserts.

VANSH, Lot 9, LGF, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2142 6162). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Pork-free. Run by the award-winning Rang Mahal outfit of Singapore. Highlights regional Indian favourites. Focuses on tawa and tandoori delicacies served in bite-sized portions.

RESTORAN KOTTARAM, F102 & 103, Block F, Phileo Damansara 1, 9 Jalan 16/11, PJ (Tel: 03-7955 1077). Business Hrs: Daily (9.30am-10.30pm). Halal. Heralds Kerala culture and cuisine, served according to royal fine dining protocol. The outlet is divided into five sections with individual purposes. One of its bestsellers is the Kottaram Briyani.

FUSION

GONBEI, T2, Relish Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2782 3801). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Halal. Uniquely Japanese, food, design and ambience-wise. It has a sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, robatayaki and tempura display cooking islands. Reputed to have the biggest collection of premium sake.

Chef Nulek Impresses With Her Knife-Wielding And Juggling Acts

Eating Out
By PRIYA MENON


IT IS not every day that you get to see a knife-wielding and utensil-juggling female chef at work, so it was truly a pleasure to see chef Vareenaun Eakwat (chef Nulek to many) from Thailand in action at the Sagano Japanese restaurant in Renaissance Hotel recently.

The 28-year-old Nulek is from Nami, the famous teppanyaki restaurant in JW Marriot Hotel, Bangkok and she would be at Sagano until March 29.

Teppanyaki is a Japanese cooking style where the meal is prepared on a hot iron griddle by chefs, who make it interesting by displaying special skills using knives and other kitchen utensil during preparation.


Skillful: The talented chef Nulek.

According to Nulek she was the first female chef at Nami and she had to train very hard to master the teppanyaki cooking skills.

For Nulek, skills like throwing knives and juggling eggs are a great way to make the dining experience more memorable and enjoyable for the diners.

Nulek introduced a variety of teppanaki appetisers in conjunction with the hotel’s latest promotion that also featured two elaborate eight-course menu namely the Seafood combination and the Seafood and Beef combination.


Healthy meal: Fresh sauteed vegetables with butter.

Both combinations had the creamy miso soup, green salad with chilli and carrot dressing as well as the deep fried soft shell crab with spicy chilli and mango sauce.

Unlike other miso soups, which were clear and made with miso paste, dried fish stock and vegetables, Nulek added whipping cream to her miso for a richer texture.

The beef dishes came with Korean Miso sauce and the Thai sauce called Stabina while the seafood dishes were accompanied by the American sun dried tomatoes and the unique Japanese Spicy Mayonnaise sauce.


Creamy: The miso soup with whipped cream for a more richer texture.

The Seafood and Beef combination had two main dishes, one was the Paper Wrapped Salmon with two types of seafood sauce and the sauteed wagyu beef and mushroom with two types of original beef sauce.

According to Nulek, the salmon dish was a healthy dish especially for those on a diet.

For the seafood combination, diners could enjoy sauteed lobster with two types of nami seafood sauce, which were made of tomatoes and spicy mayonnaise sauce.

The other dish in the combination was the snow fish served with vegetables and same type of sauce.

Both dishes came with sauteed vegetables and fried rice with garlic and shibazuke (Japanese cucumbers).


Fresh: Green salad with chilli and carrot.

The highlight of Nulek’s cooking was the egg juggling act where she threw the egg in the air, let it fall and it neatly broke in half.

As always the best part of any meal is the dessert and Nulek made it more exciting with her fruit flambe with vanilla ice cream.

Made from seasonal fruits, vanilla ice cream and butter, the ingredients were sauteed on the hot iron griddle and set on fire before served with a fresh scoop of ice cream.

The Seafood and beef combination is priced at RM 228 ++ while the Seafood combination is priced at RM 288 ++ including service charge and service tax.

> SAGANO JAPANESE RESTAU-RANT, First floor, Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel. (Tel: 21622233). Business hours: noon to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 11.00pm daily.