Fresh Noodles Set To Be A Draw

By K.W. MAK
Photos by RAYMOND OOI

THREE to four minutes, that is the time you have to consume the freshly made soba noodles when the waiters serve the dish to best savour the flavours.

That was the advice given by Kampachi at the Pavilion general manager Chiharu Yabe, who believes that it was about time Malaysians were formally introduced to the buckwheat noodles that the Japanese love so much.


Sushi specials: Executive chef Weng Leong Looi (left) and Lew working on sashimi during the launch.

The popularity of the noodles is due to its high nutritional value and its ability to lower cholesterol and is one of the main attractions at the newly launched restaurant that brings the name of Kampachi from Equatorial Kuala Lumpur.

“Most restaurants either have a machine preparing it or sell the pre-packed versions. We have it freshly made by hand daily,” Kampachi Pavilion managing director Donald Lim said.

Lim said the restaurant’s concept of having a show kitchen where a chef would be making the soba noodles daily would appeal to shoppers.

Unlike most shopping mall restaurants, Kampachi Pavilion sports a private room to cater to customers who wish some privacy.


Eye-catching: A look at the interior of Kampachi at the Pavillion.

As for the menu, the items listed are faster to prepare items to cater to shopping mall clientele who may not have as much time as customers at a hotel.

Quality wise, Lim assured that there would be no difference, as the chefs serving at both restaurants are both long time students of Kampachi’s master chef Lew Tin Sin.

“Kampachi at the Pavilion will have the same food supply as Equatorial, so customers can be assured of the same quality that they have come to expect at Kampachi,” Lim said.

The restaurant will also be promoting specialty teas from Japan, which include Kaga Gold Leaf Tea, Tsugaru Green Tea and Soba Stem Green Tea.

Exotic Twist To A Familiar Noodle Dish

By JED YOONG

CANTONESE fried noodles is probably a familiar dish to most of us, but Tom Yam Cantonese Yin Yong may be the latest exotic variation to hit the streets.

Yin Yong noodle dishes feature two types of rice noodles – the broad, flat hor fun or kwayteow, and thin vermicelli or bee hoon. The soft flat noodles are balanced by the crispy deep-fried vermicelli, hence the name “Yin Yong”, in reference to the Taoist concept of complementary opposites.


Delicious: Tang enjoying a plate of Tom Yam Cantonese Yin Yong.

Traditionally, the sauce in Cantonese fried noodles is usually made of chicken or pork stock thickened with starch and egg white. At Boon Boon Café, the dish is given a new Thai Tom Yam flavour that works surprisingly well.

And, this is just one of the fusion dishes concocted by head chef and co-owner Alex Tang. In fact, you can choose from over 900 items on its menu.

“Our signature dishes are all original recipes, usually a common dish given a new dimension. And you can get almost anything here, from nasi lemak to sizzling steak. Our drinks menu is equally extensive,” the 29-year-old said at the café in Taman Desa off Old Klang Road.

“We want our customers to have as many choices as possible at affordable prices in a comfortable, air-conditioned environment,” added Tang, who has almost 10 years of hotel kitchen experience.


Inviting ambience: The interior of Boon Boon Cafe.

Among the most popular fusion creations are Cheesy Ham Chic-ken Chop (RM13.50) and Indian Pizza (RM6.90). The chicken chop is deep-fried with cheese and chicken ham stuffed beneath the skin.

The Indian pizza, meanwhile, uses roti canai instead of a bread base, with toppings like Hawaiian Chicken (pineapple with a chicken bolognaise sauce; RM6.90), Mush-room Herbs (RM6.90) and Neptune Deluxe (a selection of seafood, including cuttlefish and fish fillet; RM8.90).

Its Seafood Spaghetti is also good value at RM9.90: the portion is large, with good-sized shrimps and even a mussel in a cheesy white sauce.

For a snack, Tang recommends Double Happiness (RM8.90). Fans of deep-fried minced chicken and shrimp dumplings (wan tan and sui gau) will be pleasantly surprised by the crunchy bits of mushroom, water chestnut, carrot and spring onion that are hardly detectable or totally absent in the dumplings served at some places.


Refreshing: (Clockwise from left) Ice Cream Coffee, Large Iced Jasmine Tea, Chilled Special Chocolate Delight and Banana Split.

Another imaginative snack is Cornflakes Chicken (RM5.00) – deep-fried cornflake-crusted chicken chunks.

The drinks menu has over 150 types of beverages, including milkshakes, ice blended drinks, fruit juices and iced milk tea with pearls or “bubble tea”, and even lists “sky juice” or water. A carafe of Iced Lemon Tea (RM5.50) is enough for two people to share. And, the Ice Cream Coffee (RM6.50) comes with two scoops of vanilla ice cream in a tall glass of black coffee brewed from imported Italian beans.

Currently, customers who present the café's discount card are entitled to a 10 per cent discount on nine bills before a 20 per cent discount on their tenth bill. Set lunches start at RM10.90 and include the soup of the day, a drink and a scoop of ice cream.

The café serves halal meat but alcohol is available.


BOON BOON CAFÉ, 29A & 30A, Jalan Desa Jaya (same row as Public Bank), Taman Desa, 58100 Kuala Lumpur (tel: 03-7987 5272).
Business hours: Mondays to Thursdays, including public holidays (11am to midnight); Fridays, Saturdays and eve of public holidays (11am to 2am). Free Wi-Fi.

Great Perk

By FARIDAH BEGUM

Nothing lifts the appetite like a spoon of chicken curry on your rice or bread.

MENTION chicken curry and you have everyone’s eyes lit up. A great perk to waned appetites, chicken curry in a bowl with steam billowing is set to get fingers itching to work on the mound of rice on any plate.

For many, chicken curry is a dish for off-days and weekends when the whole family congregates and it is equally good with the humble roti canai, white rice and even buttered rice, pilaf and briyani.

Every home has a secret recipe and every restaurant, stall and hotel has its own well-kept yellowed book of ingredients to make the perfect chicken curry.

In Indian food establishments anywhere in the world, each outlet has its own variations and it is not wrong to say in the land where curry was concocted, wars have even been started between households as to what makes an unforgettable chicken curry.

Suffice to say, there are no winners as each variation is special in its own way and every husband and child swears by their own wives and mothers!

In Malaysia, the varieties of chicken curry are endless as you have the Indian, Malay, Punjabi, Chinese Nyonya, Thai and even the Indonesian types.

The most common is the Indian style, which is redolent of spices and lots of secret ingredients if it is home cooked. In retail establishments, the test is in the taste and presentation.

It is a difficult task finding the best chicken curry in the country as it would need gourmets and celebrated cooks and chefs to try and give their comments on the chicken curry presented at a competition or gathering.

Every mother would get votes from her own children and every individual who has chicken curry outside their home will vouch for the one that meets his or her own expectation.

For those who want to try their hand at making a good chicken curry at home, the most important criterion is using your personal favourite of chicken parts. In many homes, it has been observed that the drumsticks and the wings are the parts that create petty quarrels, so it would be wise to get enough of these parts to satisfy every plate on the table.

A secret to getting good chicken curry is in not forgetting to add the concoction of pounded young ginger and garlic.

This ingredient will make a world of difference in lifting the taste of the chicken curry and in giving it the kick that would otherwise be smothered by too much curry powder or coconut milk.

A simple chicken curry can be made with a couple of spoons of meat curry powder, some sliced onions, curry leaves, tomatoes, the ginger and garlic paste, salt and pepper along with some yoghurt and coconut milk.

For the health conscious, substitute the coconut milk for low-fat milk and add natural yoghurt for a touch of the authentic curry flavour.

Potatoes are a must if you have children and young adults and don’t forget to add a sprig or two of coriander leaves, which adds to the flavour and colour of the dish. Please skin the chicken, although some would argue that it is the skin that adds to the flavour of the curry.

Ask any cook and they will tell you that letting the curry mature for a few hours or overnight helps make the curry taste even better!

Since chicken curry is often an indulgence, forget the doctor or dietician’s advice and let a little oil float on top of the curry.

Good accompaniment to chicken curry is fried chicken in any style, salads and stir-fried vegetables, especially sweet Beijing cabbage and French beans.

Of late, chicken curry that can be had in stalls and restaurants have actually failed to meet the exacting standards that KLites approve of but of the few that have met the mark, Sunday Metro recommends Tanjung Puteri in Sri Hartamas, Syed Restaurant in Petaling Jaya and Bangsar and in the various Nasi Kandar restaurants along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman.

SMS SENDERS’ PICK FOR BEST CHICKEN CURRY

> The best chicken curry sitaram curry house in brickfields same row with 7 11.

> I think de bst cicken cury can be tasted at fok heng restaurant in bercham, ipoh

> Green curry chicken (boneless drumstick) at chilli corner thai restaurant no: 10 jln nagore pg. (behind dorsett hotel)

> The best chicken curry in the country availabe at Maj Stall no.47 ah-quee st 10200 pg. The curry chicken called Chicken Kapitan.

> Lotus Restaurant, Jalan Gasing.Superb curry. Shalini.

> Parames chicken curry in Taman Chi Ling, Klang

> Nair chicken curry occupying a Chinese coffee shop in Jalan Station, Klang over 40 years

> The Best chicken curry @ Vinni Jeyaa Banana Leaf Curry House opposite of Pasar Seni lrt stn, sunther, kl

> Finger licking good chicken curry at Sri Paandi Restaurant in Jln Chantek,PJ

> The best curry chicken can an be indulged at rest. Nts nasi lemak sri muda n k.Kemuning. Taste nice. Absolutely Delicious

Pleasant Surprises

MAKAN MAKAN WITH FARIDAH BEGUM

When we know how to improvise, the food can be very nice.

I MUST thank readers who have not only been trying out my recipes but who have also been constantly e-mailing me their efforts and the verdict on the fruits of their labour.

I am happy to note that many are beginning to take up the challenge of planning their meals with more surprises in store for their family.

Before I go any further, I must thank all of you for your constant support and this has actually helped me to come up with more and easier fix-it fast meals for all of you.

A reader, who has been in contact with me ever since my column began in August, spoke of how she tore up the hundreds of recipes she had collected over the years and was discouraged to try because of the parts in the recipes that began to look like a spare parts catalogue.

I, too, feel the same way when looking through my own collection of recipe books and I always fall back on the golden rule my mother imparted to me: “There is always an easier way of getting things done. It’s not called cheating or doing away with tradition but it is improvising.”

Incidentally, sometime last year, when I decided to make my own Nasi Kerabu, I was following the recipe book to the letter and nothing turned out as it was photographed. I worked through the recipe, refusing to admit defeat. After a few improvisations, I managed not only to make Nasi Kerabu like the Kelantanese themselves but also got my Kelantanese husband proudly exclaiming that I made it like the original version. He has since been insisting that this is the main dish whenever he has friends over.

Likewise, all gulais that called for difficult and often impossible stuff have since been restructured and, thankfully, they all taste like the traditional version, minus the hours of toil in the kitchen.

This week, I am trying to change the fact the battered or breaded fish fillets must always come with chips and Tartar sauce.

For the tempura black-pepper fish fillet, I am pairing it with a nice mushroom sauce and a medley of colourful vegetables as a side accompaniment to the delicious white fish.

For the light-batter tempura fish fillet, I am going Western this week with the fish becoming the vehicle for a lovely mushroom and cheese topping. Something like a bruschetta with a mushroom topping but hyped up with a generous sprinkle of pizza cheese. Enjoy them!

Faridah Begum is passionate about cooking and stuffing family and friends with food, whether tasty or not.


Tempura Black-pepper Fish Fillet with Mushroom Sauce and the Summer Medley

Tempura Black-pepper Fish Fillet with Mushroom Sauce and the Summer Medley

Ingredients:

One packet of frozen tempura black- pepper fish fillets, deep-fried and drained

1 tablespoon of brown sauce mix, mixed with a little water

Fresh thinly sliced button mushrooms

Salt and pepper to taste

Medley of vegetables – leeks, zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, cauliflower, celery and carrot

A little olive oil or butter

Method:

Sauté the button mushrooms in some butter and when browned, add the brown sauce mixture and wait till it simmers.

In another saucepan, heat up a little olive oil, toss the vegetables in and stir-fry until slightly soft.

Season to taste and place a portion on individual plates. Put a piece of the fish fillet on the plate and smother with the mushroom sauce. Serve with garlic bread.


Baked Cheesy Fish Fillet

Baked Cheesy Fish Fillet

Ingredients:

A packet of frozen tempura fish fillets, deep-fried and drained

A little olive oil

A variety of mushrooms, cut up into bite pieces

Some pizza cheese

Salt and pepper to taste

Chopped parsley for garnishing

Method:

Heat the oven. Lightly oil an oven-safe dish and place the fish fillets at the bottom, take care not to overlap them. Sauté the mushrooms for about three minutes and pour it over the fish fillets. Sprinkle with cheese as generously as possible, season with pepper and add the parsley.

Grill the dish for about 15 to 20 minutes until the cheese bubbles and serve.

Hock Chew Specialities

By CLARA CHOOI
Photos by LEW YONG KAN and SAIFUL BAHRI

When in Sitiawan, do not miss out on the opportunity to feast on Hock Chew food and biscuits.

WHEN the Hock Chew migrants from China settled in Sitiawan in the early 1900s, they brought with them a host of interesting specialities.

Today, this bustling coastal town of Perak is known for its signature “sweet and sour” Hock Chew or Fuzhou cuisine that tastes delightfully different from most other kinds of Chinese cooking.

Some of the best Hock Chew food can be found in the Bei King restaurant on Jalan Raja Omar, right smack in the middle of Sitiawan.

Restaurant proprietor Ching Kin Eng has more than 20 years of experience behind the wok, whipping up the very dishes her ancestors used to prepare.


Signature dishes: Ching with some of the Hock Chew specialities she serves at her restaurant in Sitiawan.

However, even the skilful Ching has to admit the Hock Chew cuisine may not suit the palate of every Malaysian, whose taste buds have already been sullied by the spice-packed foods of the country’s various cultures.

As such, the shrewd businesswoman has successfully concocted her very own “special brew” of the Hock Chew food.

“What I’ve done is modify the dishes according to taste. This is to make sure every dish is special on its own; people who eat it will know immediately that I was the one who cooked it,” she jokes during an interview at the air-conditioned restaurant recently.

One of Ching’s bestsellers is an all-time Hock Chew favourite – red wine thread noodles cooked with tender chicken.

Served steaming hot in a huge bowl, this dish can be found in most restaurants that serve Hock Chew food.

Ching’s version, however, is probably one of the popular ones among the locals.

Why?

“It’s obvious, really. I make my own wine here. And as popular belief suggests, homemade food tastes better than commercialised food,” she says.

For the dish, Ching uses “long-life” noodles, which are white in colour and has a slippery softness and a milky flavour when boiled.

“The noodles, too, are handmade. That’s why they taste better,” she says.

To make the tangy-tasting red wine, Ching, declining to elaborate further on her secret recipe, says: “Plenty of materials are used.”

“I use only quality products to make the wine. The pulut and yeast used are the expensive ones.”

As a result, the dish has a myriad of tastes – sour and tangy, a dash of saltiness and a sweet aftertaste.

Another of Ching’s delights is the fried oyster egg.

The oysters used for the dish come from the day’s morning catch and are always fresh and fragrant.

The eggs are beaten to a fluff then fried with onions and chillies before the oysters are added in.

The result is a golden brown omelette, stuffed with loads of juicy, slightly salted oysters, still glistening with the taste of the ocean.

“This is always a favourite amongst our customers. After all, everyone loves their omelette,” says Ching.

One must-have dish is the sweet and sour sea cucumber thick soup cooked with fish maw.

This dish is partly spicy and is addictive to say the least.

“Hock Chew food is known to be mostly sweet and sour. For this particular dish, we make it slightly spicy to suit Malaysians,” says Ching.

The sea cucumbers are cooked until tender with a blended concoction of fish maw, chillies and ginger.

If one is not already satisfied with the first three dishes, do not forget to try another Hock Chew favourite – the homemade fish balls.

These fish balls are different from most as they are stuffed with salted minced pork and prawns.

“We make them here ourselves and customers just love them.”

Besides that, customers could also order other specialities of the outlet such as fried soft shell crabs, sliced sweet and sour fish, and chicken with salted egg.

Another mouth-watering Hock Chew creation found in Sitiawan is the “Gong Pian” biscuits.

Hard and crispy on the outside, these savoury biscuits are one of the oldest favourites brought by the Hock Chew settlers from China.

Where can you find them?

A hop, skip and jump away from Bei King will lead you to the Sitiawan Cheong Cia Gong Pian shop, located behind Wisma Ganda, on Jalan Tok Perdana.

The age-old family business is just booming. Come rain or shine, the rather unsuspecting looking shoplot is in a constant flurry of activity.


Special ingredients: Cheong Hiong Koh preparing Gong Pian biscuits for the clay oven.

In the midst of this, one will find proprietors Cheong Hiong Koh, 41, and his brother Heong Poh, 33, who took over the business from their granduncle over 10 years back.

The two successfully tweaked the original “Gong Pian” recipe to create what you will find sold at their shop today – biscuits stuffed with sweet “char siew” or slightly salted fried onions.

They may not look like much to the naked eye but take a bite into one the moment it is taken out of the clay oven and your taste buds will convince you otherwise.

“The original recipe is very plain and the biscuits have no fillings.

“People love the new recipe of “Gong Pian” that we have created. In fact, some customers come in and buy over 300 pieces per order to take away,” says Hiong Koh.

The biscuits are made from wheat flour, yeast, salt and lard. The dough is kneaded carefully by hand before it is put into a machine to be rolled. After that, it is flattened and rolled into smaller pieces, stuffed with the fillings and rolled again with a rolling pin.

“Once done, we put them into the heated oven (tandoor) where they are baked for a few minutes until they are hard and crispy,” says Hiong Koh.


Hot stuff: The Gong Pian biscuits sold at the Sitiawan Cheong Cia Gong Pian shop.

The onion-filled biscuits cost 60 sen each while the “char siew” ones cost 90 sen each.

“We make at least 1,000 biscuits a day. The first batch is ready for sale at about 10am every day.”

Three batches are made and every single biscuit is snapped up even before the shop closes for the day in the evening, he adds.

“It’s a bit hard for us to make so many biscuits because the preparation and baking for each batch takes about one and a half hours,” he said.

In fact, business is so good for the family that the shop is closed during public holidays.

“As it is, the orders are for more than we can make every day. If we open during public holidays, I don’t think we can keep up with the demand,” says Hiong Koh.

So when in Sitiawan, do not miss out on the opportunity to feast on Hock Chew food, including the delicious “Gong Pian” biscuits.

Aromatic Soups Beckon

By BONNY WEE

Many are drawn to the hot, herbal spicy soups at M. Nasir Soup Kambing in Malacca.

FOR a delicious bowl of piping hot mutton or chicken soup, make your way to M. Nasir Soup Kambing at ‘Medan Selera Datang Selalu’ located along Jalan Tun Lanang in Malacca city centre. The food court is sandwiched between two hotels, namely, City Bayview and Orkid.

For Mohamad Nasir B. Mohd Ahmad or popularly known as ‘M. Nasir’, age 44, who has been operating the stall since the food court opened in 2000, the demand for his “aromatic, herbal, spicy and thick” soup dishes has been growing steadily over the years.

Apart from dishing up mutton, beef and chicken soup using his own “secret recipe”, he also serves speciality dishes like those with bones, tongue and stomach.

According to Nasir, the torpedo soup is among the top sellers and his customers comprise not only locals but also those from out of town and who are attracted no less by claims of its aphrodisiac value. For side orders, there are cube slices of white bread or white rice available.


Hard at work: Mohamad Nasir dishing up his special soup.

“The soup takes seven to eight hours to prepare and cook and it’s done over a slow fire to ensure that the meat is tender and cooked just right.

“I have to be careful not to under-cook or over-cook the meat, and to use the right amounts of fresh herbs and ingredients, otherwise it won’t taste nice.

“I also go to the market every day to choose the right meat which I make sure is fresh. Above all, I cook it on a daily basis and there’s no keeping of left-overs,” says Nasir.

He readily admitted modifying the “flavour” in the initial years after checking it out with his customers and has now got it “perfectly right – not too hot nor too spicy” – and which everyone can enjoy.

Over the years, foreign tourists have also dropped by to try his mutton and chicken soup and some have even made return visits. With the aptly named food court, Nasir says in jest, “When craving for hot herbal spicy soup the customers ‘selalu datang’ (come always)!”

His stall is open daily from 6.30pm to 12.30am.

Oozing Sweetness

By CHAN LI LEEN

A bite of the Sing Eng Heong kaya puff can put a smile on your face.

ALMOST anyone who emerges from Sin Eng Heong, a tiny biscuit shop on Jalan Mustapha Al-Bakri in Ipoh, has some sort of a jubilant look on his or her face.

The satisfied looks are telltale signs that they have just successfully “secured” boxes of the shop’s much sought-after kaya puffs.

Crispy on the inside, yet the flaky pastry underneath crumbles as you bite into it – that is how some fans describe the bite-sized puffs.

Others swear by the generous amount of steaming hot homemade kaya that oozes out when you sink your teeth into it.


Hot off the oven: Ng Lian Pin removing a tray of freshly baked kaya puffs from the oven at his shop.

Sin Eng Heong owner Ng Lian Pin says the kaya puffs are made on demand to ensure freshness.

True enough, there is always a long line of people waiting at the shop for the 74-year-old biscuit maker to take them out of the oven.

And before there is time for the kaya puffs to cool down, they are already sold.

“Customers have to pre-order for weekends and holidays,” Ng cautions against any disappointments.

Ng had started out as an apprentice in biscuit and pastry making at the age of 16, learning the tricks of the trade from various “sifu” in Penang, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

“I didn’t go to school and didn’t have a job.

“That was in the 1950s and I’ve been baking biscuits and pastries since,” he says, modestly.

Ng also makes traditional wedding cakes, ham tan sou (lotus paste and salted egg yolk puffs), Hong Kong wife biscuits, heong peah, and variations of everyone’s favourite dragon ball biscuit.

Sin Eng Heong opens daily from 9am to 8pm but go early if you intend to get your hands on some kaya puffs.

To play safe, however, call 05-243 9659 to place orders.

Recipe For Success

By SANGEETHA NAIR

IF you have the right attitude and are willing to work hard, even selling putumayam can make you wealthy.


Hands on: Thanayenthiran demonstrating how a machine is used to squeeze out the flour that is shaped into a putumayam.

This was what Thanayenthiran Velloo learnt as his life turned from one of rags to riches within five years. No one would have thought that the 41-year-old man who left school when he was in Form Three would become one of Klang’s biggest putumayam distributors one day.

Thanayenthiran, who is of Indian-Chinese parentage, says that after failing his SRP examination he left his hometown in Ipoh to start a new life in Kuala Lumpur.

“I was all alone in Kuala Lumpur and life was hard as I had to do many different odd jobs to survive,” says the youngest of five siblings.

Among the jobs he has done include being an electrician, plumber and a newspaper vendor. But all these jobs did not rake in much income.

“I was a newspaper vendor for 18 years but it did not get me anywhere. Then five years ago I decided to start a putumayam business.

“I did not have a single sen in my pocket then but it was a risk I had to take,” says the father of three.

“I bought over the business from a gentleman for RM50,000. Luck must have been on my side as the man did not ask me to pay him upfront. After a year, I contacted him and paid him half of what I owed him. The following year I settled the balance,” he says.

It has been five years since Thanayenthiran started his business and today, he has earned enough money to buy himself two houses and a van to continue his business as a newspaper vendor.


Easy does it: A worker at Thanayenthiran’s shop collecting the cooked string hoppers for packing.

He operates his putumayam business from a shop called Kedai Putumayam Sentosa in Taman Sentosa, Klang.

“I receive a minimum order of 1,700 pieces of putumayam a day. On weekends, the demand can hit 2,000 pieces,” he says.

His shop specialises in white putumayam, pandan putumayam and raagi putumayam which he claims is popular among the older generation.

“Raagi is richer in protein, calcium and antioxidants, and contains high levels of dietary fibre as compared to rice flour. It is known to help control blood glucose levels in diabetics,” he explains.

Besides putumayam, he also takes orders for curry puffs, vadai and mothagam (dumpling with green pea filling) which is prepared by his wife at their home in Shah Alam.

His clients are mainly vendors and restaurants from Puchong, Shah Alam and Klang.

Thanayenthiran has already started receiving orders for Deepavali but expects most of the orders to come one week before Deepavali.

Deepavali has been a quiet occasion for him and his family.

“We have not celebrated Deepavali since I started this business,” he says.

While fellow Hindus are celebrating the festivities, Thanayenthiran and his wife would be slogging to meet the orders.

“We would start making the putumayam two days before Deepavali and work for 48 hours straight without rest. I would also have an additional eight workers aside from the existing two to help me out.

“On the day of Deepavali, I would be so exhausted that I would sleep the whole day.”

He says his children would normally spend their holidays at his mother’s house in Ipoh as he would never deprive them of their fun.

Thanayenthiran can be contacted at 019-393 8782.


Popular Indian Dish

Putumayam, also known as Idiappam or string hoppers, is a sweet Indian dish made of rice flour. It is eaten with grated coconut and palm sugar or any curries. It is can served at all meals but is especially popular at breakfast and tea-time, and at open houses during Deepavali.

The process of making putumayam consists of sieving rice flour, mixing it with water, sieving it again, steaming the flour and pressing the dough through a mould with tiny holes. The mould is moved in a circular motion to make nice round putumayam which is then steamed. The putumayam is left to cool before being packed.

Spoil Yourself In Regal Setting

By HELEN ONG

THE impressive and colourful exterior of this restaurant on Tanjong Tokong Road, Penang, will give you an idea of what to ex-pect inside. And once you enter, the rich, intricate decor makes you feel like you’re inside a Moghul palace.

Attention has been paid down to the last detail, including deliberately aged pillars, soft lighting and arched recesses leading to smaller nooks and crannies. Soft sitar music play-ing in the background adds to the ethnic experience.

The Palace d’India is indeed a re-gal place. What better place to celebrate Deepavali with family or friends?

“The Moghul kings had a rich culture,” restaurant manager Anand, 27, said, “and a highly-developed taste for fine food.

“That’s the kind of food we serve here: good authentic Indian food for non-Indians.”


Good choice:The Bendi Nasala.

The cosy interior belies a large seating capacity of 350, but if you are holding a private function for 30 to 40 guests, they can arrange a special buffet on the first floor. Alternati-vely, they can cater for your party off site.

It’s easy to see why they were named one of Malaysia Tatler’s Best Restaurants for Excellent Cuisine and Service 2006 and 2007.

The service is friendly but dis-creetly efficient, and the extensive menu of old favourites like tandoori and curries, and other more exotic-sounding names created by a team of six chefs from different provinces in India will ensure a wonderful culinary experience.

According to Anand, they are the only restaurant in Malaysia serving 112 different varieties of kebabs, effectively making them a kebab factory.

“They are baked in a tandoori oven at exactly 140 degrees Fahren-heit, and the cooking is precisely timed, otherwise they can be under or overcooked.”

Apart from tikkas, try their Murg Malai, lightly flavoured yet tasty chicken, or their unusual Rashimi, also chicken, served with light and fluffy egg yoke.

Popular main courses include their Sizzling Dishes which are Kashmiri delights – mutton, fish, chicken or prawns served with a chilli and capsicum gravy.

The tender Cauliflower Manchu-rian is a Chinese dish which has been adapted with added spices, and the Claypot Fish Curry, with a me-dium-hot sauce, is another favou-rite.

“Not all Indian food is hot and spicy,” said Anand.

However, the tender Sizzling Lamb is spicy and so is the Chicken Vindaloo. Eaten with one of their many rice dishes, briyanis or pilaus, both were tasty and filling.

They also offer eight different types of bread, including naan and the light and delicate roomali.

Vegetarians have a large selection to choose from as well.

A live three-piece band performs throughout the evening, their per-cussion and stringed instruments twanging in musical accompani-ment to not just Indian, but English and even Chinese songs.

For reservations, call 04-899 9715 or email them on info@palaced india.com.

Harmony Of Flavours

If you've always wanted to try Japanese food but simply don't know what to order,then head for Matsuki Restaurant in Cantonment Road, Penang.

They have two menus available: one for those already familiar with Japanese food and the other comes with photos of the food for people who aren't.

And you don’t have to worry about accompaniments. You'll get a complete meal with the Special Lunch Bento set – chicken teriyaki, unagi (eel), fried vegetables and sashimi together with rice, miso soup, chawan mushi (steamed egg custard) and fruit.

A delicious Sukiyaki Tei Set, served piping hot in a claypot, costs just RM18 and the Seafood Set RM25.


Value for money:The Seafood Set offers a complete meal.

Also try the Gyuniku Kimuchi Itame (sliced beef fried with kimchee) and Adegashi Tofu (deep-fried tofu with sauce) – both very appetising.

Indulge in some Haagen Daz ice-cream and wash it all down with hot or cold sake or Asahi beer.

The food is such exceptionally good va- lue because proprietor Lee Ten Lin, 57, is also a purveyor of Japanese groceries and therefore has access to the raw ingredients at trade prices.

The chilled tuna is shipped in weekly, and the salmon (shake) is flown in twice a week, ensuring the sashimi is as fresh as possible.

“Every morning, I go to the market personally to source for the best produce available,” Lee explained.

He employs experienced local chefs, and service is provided by his wife Judy and daughter Siew Yen, which all go towards keeping quality up but costs, and therefore prices, down.

Matsuki has been going for over 10 years now, and judging by the lunchtime crowd and Japanese clientele who go there to eat and read the papers, it offers not just value for money but also authentic Japanese food (he often gets busloads of Japanese tour groups too).

The pork-free outlet, with its neat, fresh interior and clean wooden furniture, is a pleasant place. It has four tatami rooms which can be booked in advance, and sufficient parking in the front garden.

Matsuki is open every day from noon to 2.30pm for lunch and 6pm to 10.30pm for dinner. For details or reservations, call 04-229 5504.

Well-Travelled Chef Shares His Passion For French-Euro Cuisine

By GEETHA KRISHNAN

IT is a known fact that we locals love our food but do we know enough about it?


Plush decor: Brasserie La Place beckons with its black interior and coordinated furniture.

When S. K. Cheah opened Brasserie La Place in Damansara Utama, his intention, aside from embarking on a business venture, was to share his food knowledge with fellow Malaysians.


Lean: Foie Gras in Balsamico.

The well-trained and well-travelled chef spent 36 years of his life in Europe, working in Netherlands, Switzerland, France and Canada. His last stint was at the Amsterdam RAI International Exhibition and Congress Centre in Holland.

Over lunch at Brasserie La Place (pronounced Plas in French), Cheah explained that Europeans took their meat seriously and had a tendency to frown on strong marinades.

“Red meats are best served medium rare so the natural flavour and juices can be relished. Over-marinating masks the real taste of meat while well done steaks, depending on where the meat was procured, can turn out leathery,” he said.

According to Cheah, the five-month-old Brasserie La Place goes by standard European dining requirements and diners are advised to order their meats medium rare for a European culinary experience. Wine reductions are also big here.

Brasserie La Place offers upscale French-European cuisine without burning a hole in your wallet. The three-course set lunch with five different main courses is RM19.90++.


Rich offering: Grilled King Prawns with Blue Cheese Sauce.

The decor here is swanky, featuring chic dining furniture in plush black, paired with elegant chandeliers dangling black-and-white crystals. There’s the bar, function room and private lounge for aperitifs.

Lately Cheah has been overseeing the running of the restaurant and has placed head chef Chia Lai Heng in charge of the kitchen. They are in the midst of adding new items to the a la carte menu.

Both also swear by chilled beef from Australia for superior taste, texture and quality. The Beef Carpaccio was spectacular with raw slivers of tenderloin accompanied by capers, sun-dried tomatoes and cheese shavings.

Curing is an important process for the Foie Gras with Balsamico because the combination of port and cognac ensures the goose liver stays lean and fat-free.


The best part of every meal: Choux Chocolate Fondant is a must have for all dessert lovers.

Cheah is contemplating introducing cold soups like vichycoisse and gazpacho. His restaurant serves Cream of Cucumber and Mint, a hot, refreshing soup enjoyed by most.

“We had reservations about the soup because Malaysians are not big on cooked cucumbers. The cream and mint has made all the difference,” he said.

A generous and tasty stuffing of turkey ham and shiitake mushrooms goes into the Stuffed Spring Chicken with Duxxels in Supreme Sauce. For the lamb special the natural choice would be Sauteed Lamb Cutlets with Honey and Rosemary Sauce. The herb arms the meat with a lovely fragrance.

You’re assured of fresh crustaceans for the Grilled King Prawns with Blue Cheese Sauce. The sauce might be an acquired taste but Chia’s decision to include spaghetti in the dish tones down the strong flavour.


Chef’s choice: Brasserie La Place chefs recommend that red meats be savoured medium rare.

Keen on offering the best even for dessert, Chia uses Belgian bittersweet chocolate for the Choux Chocolate Fondant. Its gooey centre oozes rich chocolate but it is best to savour the platter of mixed berries and sliced fruits first before embarking on the decadent chocolate experience.


BRASSERIE LA PLACE (Pork-free) 55B-59B,
Uptown 37, 2nd Floor (above HSBC),
Jalan SS21/37, Damansara Utama,
Petaling Jaya, Selangor (Tel: 03-7710 5562).
Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (noon to 2.30pm) and dinner (6pm to 9.30pm).
Closed on Sunday.

All Time Favourite Meal

By JADE CHAN

Restoran Makan Makan
5 Jalan Anggerik Vanilla M 31/M
Kota Kemuning
40460 Shah Alam
Tel: 012-2727862 (Simon) / 012-3796046 (Cynthia)
Business hours: Tues-Sun, 8am to 6pm. Closed on Mon.

Pork free

Eating at Restoran Makan Makan is like taking a walk down memory lane – most of its meals are served on coloured metal plates that are reminiscent of those from our grandparents’ and parents’ generation.

“Our concept is based on the old-school, homestyle cooking, and we specialise in all-time local favourite snacks and comfort food most Malaysians are familiar with,” said Simon Lau.


For the love of food: Cynthia Oh and Simon Lau opened the restaurant to share their passion for eating and cooking, and as an extension of Lau’s in-laws’ tong shui business.

The restaurant, which opened in June 2007, is operated by partners Lau and Cynthia Oh, and occasionally assisted by their respective spouses May Soo and Kaiser Tan.

Lau, Soo, Oh and Tan are a group of childhood friends who grew up in Petaling Jaya, and enjoyed serving guests with their home cooked food.

Soo explained that their restaurant is a natural extension of her parents’ tong shui business, and a way to share their passion for eating and cooking.

“My parents have been operating a tong shui stall called Soh Soo’s Desserts at Kedai Kopi Khoong in Seapark for over 30 years.


Sweet concoction: The Bubur Cha Cha is one of the several types of tong shui served at the restaurant.

“My husband was previously in the pest control business, but we were looking into venturing into something else,” she said.

“He sold off his business, then we roped in Cynthia (and her husband) to open this restaurant that is like a spin-off from my parents’ stall, with more items added to the menu.”

Oh said that most of the dishes were prepared using their own recipes and those from their families.

Some of the restaurant’s bestsellers are Tom Yam Fried Rice, Mee Mamak, Nasi Lemak with Fried Chicken, Yong Chow Fried Rice, Loh Mai Fun (Glutinous Rice) and Anson Chee Cheong Fun.

The tong shui, which come in hot and chilled varieties, include Red Bean, Pulut Hitam, Gingko Barley Fuchuk, Bubur Cha Cha and Sea Coconut with Longan.


Thai flavour: Restoran Makan Makan’s Siamese Laksa come highly recommended by their owners.

“Our tong shui is very popular among our customers, especially the Gingko Barley Fuchuk and Bubur Cha Cha. The texture is very smooth and its prepared fresh early every morning.

“We also have special tong shui that is served during weekends, like Mak Chok (wheat cooked with gula melaka), Green Bean and Tapioca,” said Oh.

The restaurant’s Siamese Laksa and Wu Tau Kow (Yam Cake) come highly recommended by their owners.

“We used to cook the Siamese Laksa whenever we had a gathering, and our friends gave us good comments about it,” said Soo, who got the recipe from her sister-in-law.

“The soup is a rich concoction of santan (coconut milk), spices, curry paste and fish stock from ikan kembung.

“We serve it with strips of ikan kembung and garnish it with mint leaves, bunga kiantan and cucumber.”


A variety of tong shui: (clockwise, from bottom) Sea Coconut with Longan, Gingko Barley Fuchuk and Pulut Hitam.

“The Yam Cake is a recipe of mine, and we can assure you there’s yam in the cake. It’s a steamed dish served with dried shrimp, spring onions and fried onions, as well as homemade chilli and sweet sauces,” said Oh.

She also makes the kaya for the Toasted Bread with Kaya and Butter snack, a Hainan-style snack that is available throughout the day.

The Glutinous Rice dish features rice steamed with stir-fried ingredients like onions, garlic, dried shrimp and mushroom, then topped with peanuts and spring onions for a crunchier flavour, while the Anson Chee Cheong Fun is a dish of steamed chee cheong fun that has its skin wrapped with dried shrimps and turnips.

“Its named after Teluk Anson (now Teluk Intan, Perak), and a lot of our customers say this dish is very similar to the one found there,” said Soo.

If you have room for more, choose from the wide array of Nyonya Kuih, including Bingka Ubi, Kuih Ketayap, Mochi, Pulut Tai Tai, Onde Onde and Pulut Inti.

Neighbourhood Café Offers Good Food In A Cosy Ambience

By GEETHA KRISHNAN
Photos by RICKY LAI

EVER wondered why some of the roads in the quieter section of Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur, are named after fishes like bilis, tenggiri and kurau?


Firing up the stove: A cook at Food Foundary, Petit, preparing a dish.

Ponder this over a cup of coffee and a slice of luscious Mille Crepe Cake at Food Foundry, Petit on Lorong Kurau and by the time you leave, fish will be the last thing on your mind.

The quaint neighbourhood cafe is an offshoot of the Food Foundry in Section 17, Petaling Jaya. Like its predecessor, Food Foundry, Petit is one of those surprise finds people tend to jealously guard.

If Food Foundry holds fort below the old flats of Happy Mansion, Petit is the latest attraction within a solitary row of shoplots smack in the middle of an ageing housing area.

Manager Alex Anthony said that Petit referred to the smaller size of the cafe compared to Food Foundry. While the older cafe measures around 108 sqm, the latter measures slightly more than 72 sqm.

“We were looking to expand and Lorong Kurau was ideal because like Happy Mansion, it was off the beaten track. It fits with our intention to establish another niche café where people can relax while enjoying the food,” said Anthony who started Food Foundry with a friend two years ago.

Even with just 10 tables arranged around the café, Petit seemed somewhat roomier than Food Foundry. The tables were all taken up during lunch and people familiar with the area seemed to know where to park. A playground also sat in clear view of the café, enhancing the neighbourhood feel.

The soothing baby blue-and-white colour scheme of Food Foundry has been retained at Petit to further endear the café to diners. The paper menu listed most of the house specials except for the tapas, one or two pastas and a few main courses like the beef.

Petit served hearty soups in the form of Spinach Soup with Cream and Mushroom and Potato Soup. Not only were the soups rich with ingredients with the right measure of condiments, the portions were also large to merit sharing.


Game time: Duck Confit with Brown Shallot Sauce and Mashed Potatoes.

Smoked Salmon Salad was served to tease the palate further. Salmon curls were tucked within the salad, drizzled with balsamic vinegar for that tingling aftertaste.

Fans of unique sauces would warm up to the sweet and tangy marmalade sauce served with the Pan-fried Dory with Peppers. For a perky aftertaste and onslaught of fieriness, Anthony suggested that the fish be savoured with a dash of Tabasco sauce.

The other main course was Duck Confit with Brown Shallot Sauce and Mashed Potatoes. Petit had a unique way of preparing its mashed potatoes and the end result was delightfully lumpy. The brown shallot sauce had its own enduring qualities.

Depending on the day, the much-loved Mille Crepe Cake would be available in vanilla, chocolate, chocolate-orange or strawberries and cream fillings. Every bite of any slice would only prove addictive.


Simple yet relaxing: The interior is kept austere with solid tones and minimal decors.

Making the layers of crepe, as Anthony reminded, was a labour-intensive effort and as such, only two to three cakes were prepared daily. He said there were times when customers who arrived at Petit from other parts of the city like Ampang, returned home empty-handed because the cakes were sold out.

To avoid this, he suggested that orders be placed several days in advance, like it was done at Food Foundry.

The other worthy alternative would be the Lemon Tart, made with fresh lemons with a base that featured short crust pastry layered with sugar. It was truly a zesty treat.

Still thinking of fish?


FOOD FOUNDRY, PETIT Ground Floor, No 1, Lorong Kurau, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-2282 2822). Business Hours: Daily, 11.30am to 10pm. Closed on public holidays.

Using His Grandfather's Recipe, Nasir Whips Up A Mean Mee Rebus

By DALILAH IBRAHIM

Back in the 1920s, Nasir's grandfather who is fondly known as Baidali created the recipe, which is a unique blend between mee rebus Mamak and mee rebus Jawa.

He then passed on the recipe to Nasir's father, Wahid, who operated a stall opposite Johor Baru railway station that became famous and a must stop for travelers arriving at and leaving Johor Baru in the 50s until the 70s.

Nasir was taught the recipe since he was young, helping out his father at the stall but when he was able to, Nasir spread his wings and operated his own stall near the Tebrau seaside.


Still going strong: Nasir Wahid, the third generation maker of Mee Rebus Baidali.

“Many of my clients then were Johorians who lived in KL. They urged me to 'migrate' so that it’s easier for them to get the mee rebus.

“ I moved to Kuala Lumpur in 1996 armed only with the family recipe and operated a small stall at Wisma Denmark in Jalan Ampang,” he said, adding that he moved to a location in Sri Hartamas when the food court closed down.

This Ramadan, Nasir operates from his current stall at Restoran Aji Don at Plaza Damas in Sri Hartamas and its branch at Kafe Mak Tim located at Jalan AU2C/2 in Taman Keramat.


One is just not enough: A bowl of Mee Rebus Baidali will only make you crave for more.

Selling at RM4 a packet, this special mee rebus is a best seller wherever it’s at. Nasir's clientele included the former Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamed and VVIPs who could not resist the temptation of Mee Rebus Baidali.

“Some just love the gravy, which is thick and rich with flavour and also the pendaram (crunchy homemade prawn crackers used as garnish) which is a necessary ingredient for this recipe,” he said adding that he stick closely to the recipe that he learnt from his family to maintain the original flavour.

The month of Syawal will also be a busy time for Nasir and his three assistants as they get many orders for individuals and corporate Hari Raya open houses.

Mee Rebus Baidali stall operated between 11am to 10.30pm daily except Sundays at Restoran Aji Don, Plaza Damas, Sri Hartamas. However, their Ramadan operation hours are from 5pm to 10.30pm.

Its branch at Kafe Maktim, Jalan AU2C/2, Taman Keramat operates daily between 5pm to 10.30pm.

Beancurd Skin Expert

By HAH FOONG LIAN

BEANCURD skin producer Goh Chin Leng is a hit among his friends as a karaoke singer, crooning love songs at restaurants at Bercham in Ipoh during the night.

But by day, the 68-year-old Goh slaves away over trays of soya milk to produce beancurd skins for a living at his factory in Jalan Bercham.

Using wood fire to heat up the milk, Goh, who has been in the business for the past 40 years, and his workers produce beancurd skins from some 500kg of soya beans a day.

“We soak the beans for at least six hours and we start producing the skins from 8am to 5pm,” said Goh, who learnt the art of making the skins from his late uncle.

He said he and his workers would start work at 6am to grind the soya beans into a paste and to squeeze out the soya milk.


'Skin' specialist: With his 40 years of experience, Goh Chin Leng knows the art of making beancurd skins like the back of his hand.

After that, they will pour the soya milk into trays for boiling. Layers of beancurd skin then appear on top of the milk, which Goh will remove to be dried under a fan.

However, he said the beancurd skins could not be made on rainy days because it would not be hot enough to dry them well.

“If the skins are not well dried, they will turn bad,” said Goh, who does not use preservatives to make the skins.

Goh said the beancurd skins that he produced were supplied to regular customers around the city.

“I have my regular customers who will come here to pick up the beancurd skins every day. They like the skins fresh from the pot,” he added.

The beancurd skins are used in vegetarian dishes, desserts or to make various types of fish paste products.

Goh said his customers liked to wrap fish paste with the beancurd skins because they would be crispy after frying.

On why the beancurd skins he makes are popular among customers in Ipoh, Goh said: “Just use first grade soya beans and make sure the soya milk is thick.”

Interesting Specials And Noodles

Compiled by SANGEETHA NAIR

Who would have thought that one of the best Lou Shi Fun in town could be found in a mamak restaurant? Blogger wyejon finds out more.


Roti Hawaii

RESTORAN Sri Murni in SS2, Petaling Jaya needs no introduction, writes blogger wyejon of Wantan Productions.

Wyejon says: “It is the most crowded establishment in the whole of SS2 and it is one of the most interesting mamak places around.

“First of all this place is run by a Chinese guy. Secondly, they have a great variety of roti that you may not find elsewhere. Thirdly, they have some great ‘Special’ drinks that I really enjoy. And they have delicious Claypot Lou Shi Fun.

“Sri Murni is famous for its array of roti but the most popular one is probably the Roti Hawaii. It looks like a murtabak from the outside but the filling is different. It is loaded with chicken, sausages and egg plus a generous dose of mayonnaise squeezed on top of the roti in the shape of a spider web.

“If there’s one problem with the Roti Hawaii, it is that it does not go well with curry. It would be nice if they had pictures of all their different roti with a little explanation on what goes inside. It would make ordering them a little easier.

“On the subject of roti, you could also try their naan which is served with curry and condensed milk.

“Sri Murni is also known for their ‘Special’ drinks which are actually fruit juices. There’s also the Ribena Special with lots of nata de coco, longan, watermelon and some other fruits.

“The fruit juices are usually quite thick. In fact the texture is more like fruit puree or ice blended fruit drink. These drinks are fruity goodness with lots of chewy bits to keep you occupied.


Claypot Lou Shi Fun

“Of all places to find good Claypot Lou Shi Fun one would hardly expect to find it in a mamak shop but Sri Murni’s Lou Shi Fun is one of the best around. Mix the egg with the noodles before it cooks and you will get a thick and flavourful bowl of noodles.

“If you are the sort who likes spicy food, then make sure you eat it with the sambal provided as it is guaranteed to give you an added kick.”

A Must-Have For Raya

By FARIDAH BEGUM

The festive spread is just not complete without the ketupat.

MENTION ketupat, and cubes of compressed rice comes to mind. For many, it is an accompaniment to our favourite satay, a great conveyance for the multi-flavoured peanut sauce.

Its bland taste makes it suitable for almost any spicy and thick sauce and fills up the stomach when rice is not on the menu.

While we all know what ketupat is, what does ketupat stand for? Why ketupat and not just nasi something or other?


Demand: The ketupat is now enjoyed all year round with delicious meat dishes.

From my own research of a good number of kampung folks, which in the end started a debate after the terawih prayers recently, I believe the true meaning of ketupat is “ketuk sampai mampat” or “ketuk sampai padat” – which means knock until compressed.

For many who know ketupat in its fully cooked form may not realise that rice is fed into the square pouch, woven from young coconut fronds, and after several fillings, it is softly knocked at the base to ensure the rice is tight and no space is left in between the rice. If any holes or spaces are left, then they would be filled by excess water and the end product would be soggy and not compressed.

The pouch is filled half-full or even two-thirds for a harder version and then cooked for about three hours in a pot of boiling water and then left to hang and drip dry before it is consumed some hours later.

During the Hari Raya festivals, it is one of the must-haves. Today, since time is of the essence, many companies have begun putting on the store shelves instant ketupat that no longer need the coconut frond pouches but are instead filled into HDPE plastic bags and then cooked the same way as the traditional ketupat.

The ketupat is now enjoyed all year round with delicious meat dishes such as rendang, serunding (meat floss), peanut sauce and with the delicious satay or skewered meat.

Another variation of the ketupat is the ketupat daun palas, which is a triangular piece woven from the leaves of the fan palm.

Instead of rice, glutinous rice is used and it is later cooked in coconut milk and it is most often a delicious triangular piece of cake that goes well with all the dishes and sauces mentioned above or on its own, as most children would have it.

Extremely popular in the East Coast states and available in all nooks and corners of the country, the ketupat daun palas comes in two versions: one that is just glutinous rice and a little salt and another comes with a sprinkling of black-eyed peas, which adds a nice twist to the compressed rice cake.

The ketupat, both rice and glutinous rice, actually keeps well without refrigeration for about three days and if it is to be kept for longer, they can be frozen or kept in the fridge for a few days and recooked, either steamed or boiled again. In the case of the ketupat daun palas, it is best fried in shallow oil to seal its freshness after a couple of days.

Ketupat is also popular as a quick snack as it can be reheated and eaten with sugar, meat floss and sauces.

For the brave gourmets, it is also a good substitute for noodles in curry laksa, laksam and other creamy gravies and even with curries.

During the Hari Raya season, these ketupat, and even the pouches or the raw ingredients like the coconut fronds, are easily available in wet markets, the pasar tani and the festive markets set up specially by the Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (Fama) at most towns in the country about three days before the actual celebration.

Make A Beeline For This Broth

Story and photo by RASLAN BAHAROM
sundaymetro@thestar.com.my

Many are drawn to Bee Hon Sup Railway for its delicious soup made from the meat of ‘ayam pencen’.


Soupy goodness: One of Shahrin’s workers scooping out the steaming chicken broth to go with the tray of dishes for a customer.

THE wooden shop located in front of the railway station in Taiping is packed with people from all walks of life and creed. They are here just to enjoy a breakfast of bee hon or koay teow immersed in chicken broth.

But unlike the usual chicken broth, the one sold at Bee Hon Sup Railway (the name of the outlet for the past 20 years) is not made from the normal tender chicken meat.

The soup is actually made from the meat of ‘ayam pencen’, as Bee Hon Sup proprietor Shahrin Ahmad calls it.

“The normal chicken meat which we get from the market is too tender and will disintegrate when boiled for a long period,” Shahrin explains.

“Hence I have to use ‘ayam pencen’ as its hard meat can withstand prolonged boiling over the stove,” he says.

Shahrin sources his ‘ayam pencen’ from the various chicken farms which produce eggs in the district of Larut Matang and Selama.

“After a certain period such chickens no longer lay eggs, hence they are called ‘ayam pencen’,” he says.

Every day, Shahrin and his five workers check into the shop at about 5am where the broth is made – usually boiled for over two hours based on a recipe passed down from his late uncle Baharuddin Hashim or better known among his customers as Din Hong Kong.

Shahrin uses 10 spices, including bunga cengkeh, bunga lawang, jintan putih, jintan manis, lada putih, and lada hitam, for his chicken broth.

By 9am, his customers would have begun flocking to his shop but the day’s supply, enough for about 250 customers, usually goes off the shelf before noon.

“Since the business began about 20 years ago, we have never indulged in making broth from red meat as chickens are more universal and all races can enjoy my bee hon or koay teow,” Shahrin says.

His ketchup, laced with grounded chilli padi, is a must-have if one really wants to enjoy Shahrin’s ‘ayam pencen’ broth which costs only RM2.50 per bowl, with an additional 50 sen for an extra plate of boiled chicken meat.

Shahrin says he has no plans to increase the price as yet.

However like any other businesses, there are setbacks too, says Shahrin.

“A few years back when Bukit Merah near here had confirmed bird flu cases, my business took a dip.

“But now things are back on the right track,” says Shahrin, who plans to relocate his business to a proper restaurant some day.

Like any other aspiring businessman, Shahrin hopes to become a franchise owner so that his ‘ayam pencen’ broth can be savoured by more people.

Mighty Fine Fare

By SANGEETHA NAIR
Photos by DARRAN TAN

Two friends team up to serve delightful Penang food in the Klang Valley.

THIS is a story about two women whose passion for delicious food brought them together.

Lynda Goh and Tan Gim Ean had known each other since 1990 when they were working for a credit card company.

The two, who come from Peranakan families in Penang, clicked the moment they had a meal together.


Curry Kapitan

Tan was the type who would travel from one state to another to satisfy her craving for chee cheong fun while Goh would only settle for the best.

Several years down the road the two went their separate ways. Goh decided to open a cafe called Rasa Penang in 1 Utama shopping centre in Petaling Jaya while Tan opened a restaurant in Bukit Damansara.

When business did not pick up as well as they expected, the two decided to join forces.

Goh established Specials of Penang, a restaurant serving authentic Penang hawker and Nyonya food that you might only find in a Peranakan home. She has two branches; one in 1 Utama and the other in Petaling Jaya New Town.

Since business was picking up quite well, Goh needed a helping hand. And she thought it would be a great idea to ask Tan to join her.


Chee Cheong Fun

“I love food and Lynda has a knack for detail. She is very particular about quality. So I thought we would make a great team,” said Tan.

Specials of Penang is known for its Assam Laksa, Penang Lam Mee, Mee Rebus, Penang Rojak, Chee Cheong Fun, Popiah and Curry Kapitan.

“These are the dishes that Penang is famous for and we have brought it down with us to Petaling Jaya,” said Tan.

The Assam Laksa takes a lot of hard work to prepare and tastes like it has been flown down directly from the back streets of Penang.

“The most crucial part about preparing the dish is the gravy which we take pride in,” said the duo.

Goh said the Penang Lam Mee is known as the birthday mee in Nyonya families.

“This dish is a must-have for birthdays hence the name birthday mee,” she said.


Assam Laksa

Taste the Penang Rojak here and you will be sure to come back for more. The healthy plate of cut green apples, pineapple, young mango, cucumber, sengkuang, tofu pok and sotong topped with sweet and spicy black sauce and crushed roasted peanut is simply out of this world.

Their Chee Cheong Fun is also different from the regular ones found in Klang Valley. Again, the secret is in the sauce.

“Ours come with the sweet sauce and petis udang which is what makes it very Penang,” said Goh.

The Mee Rebus is the typical Penang mamak style with the boiled potatoes, fried ote-ote, tofu, half boiled egg and a dollop of sotong sambal and gravy.

If you are familiar with Penang Nyonya food, Jiu Hoo Char shouldn’t be too difficult a word to pronounce.

Goh said she grew up on this Nyonya speciality made from stir-fried turnips, cabbage and cuttlefish.

“It is a dish we have every Chinese New Year eve. I have had so much of it that I have asked my mother to change our menu next year,” she joked.

You would also notice that there is a difference between the Penang Nyonya dishes and Malacca Nyonya dishes.

“Our Nyonya dishes have more Siamese influence with a lot of sour and spicy flavours. The Malacca Nyonya dishes, on the other hand, are cooked with more coconut milk,” explained Tan.

Specials of Penang also has a variety of appetisers to choose from like Pai Tee, Popiah, Tahu Bakar, Otak-Otak, Chicken Lor Bak and Roti Bakar.

On weekends, they have a special menu consisting of Lemak Laksa and Assam Fish Head Curry.

They also have three set meals to cater to the lunch crowd. They are the Nyonya set which comes with rice, Chicken Curry Kapitan, Jiu Hoo Char and mint omelette, the Baba Set which is rice, Beef Rendang, Jiu Hoo Char and Sambal Sotong and the Nelayan Set served with rice, Fish Gulai Tumis, vegetables and Chicken Lorbak. The lunch sets are priced between RM7.90 and RM9.90.

This restaurant specialises in three types of desserts. They are Leng Chi Kang, Ice Kacang and Cendol.

Penang food aside, they also serve Western dishes like Chicken Chop, Chicken Sausage and Fries or Fish and Chips and the Nasi Lemak which comes with a selection of side dishes.

Teeming With People

Story and photo by RENITA CHE WAN

The Shah Alam Ramadan bazaar draws a crowd of over a thousand visitors daily.

THE Ramadan bazaar in Shah Alam could arguably be one of the most interesting bazaars to visit in the Klang Valley as it has close to 100 stalls and all kinds of everything to choose from.


Big attraction: A crowd gathering at Amirul’s stall which sells kebabs on skewers.

Your usual nasi briyani, nasi tomato with ayam masak merah, ayam percik, sup tulang, satay, assortment of sweet cakes and rendang, and more, can be found here.

Every year during Ramadan, hawkers from all over the country would gather here to secure a place at the bazaar so they can display their best dishes and drinks.

The number of people who go to the bazaar could easily be around 1,000 to 2,000 people a day, so if you’re planning to make a stop, make sure you arrive before 5pm as it can be really crowded then.

As Sunday Metro browsed through the bazaar, a number of interesting stalls could be seen serving dishes not normally found at other Ramadan bazaars.

One interesting stall sells kebabs on skewers. Located at the very end of the row on the left if you’re coming from the Shah Alam Stadium entrance, the stall sells all kinds of kebabs imaginable.

There’s the barbecued kebab (chicken, lamb and beef), cheesy chicken scallop, grilled lamb, vegetables (tomatoes, capsicums, onions), cheesy beef on skewers and too many more to mention.

Four young men, who have been serving the same dish for the past eight years, manage the stall.

“Prior to those eight years, we used to sell these dishes at Taman Sri Andalas in Klang, Selangor, for close to two years but the response wasn’t that great,” explains stall owner Amirul Shahid.

“Since we have more helpers now, we have decided to set up our stall here because of the large number of people who visit this place,” he adds.

Amirul got the idea to sell his kebabs on skewers while watching a television programme and that particular show inspired him to try it out.

“At first we felt it didn’t make sense but we still went on with the idea, and surprisingly we received good feedback from our customers,” says Amirul.

Although it was a scorching hot day, it did not deter visitors from getting what they want, even if it means standing in a long queue for their turn.

This is especially true for Mohd Suffian Ismail’s stall that sells ayam golek and ayam madu.

Suffian says that both dishes, which are inspired by his Vietnamese mother, use Vietnamese herbs and spices.

“My mother’s from Vietnam and she’s a good cook. She was the one who taught me the recipes for these tasty dishes,” says Suffian.

“This is just a side thing I’m doing as I have a permanent job,” he adds.

He has been selling both dishes for close to 11 years at the Bangi and Kajang Ramadan bazaar but this is his first time selling them at the Shah Alam bazaar.

However, two years ago he had to move to New Zealand as the company he was working with moved there.

“I was in New Zealand for two years. Early this year, I received a phone call from my mother asking me to come back to help with the family business, so here I am,” he explains.

The sweet aroma of the grilled chickens filled the air, thus attracting a number of customers to gather around his stall to find out what was cooking there.

The Ramadan bazaar in Shah Alam is definitely a place worth checking out not only because the food is great, but also because non-food products such as accessories and handbags for women are available.

If you do decide to come over, you need not worry about parking space as the bazaar is located in the parking lot just behind the stadium.

A Culinary Trip To India

By HELEN ONG

ONE of Penang island's newest outlets, the Spice 'n Rice Restaurant is something unusual in Penang. They serve good Indian food in a trendy, fine dining environment.

Located at the corner of Green Hall, the restaurant is housed in a historic 19th century building which used to be the headquarters of the North Malaya Chinese Textile and General Merchants’ Association.

The beautifully-restored shophouse is owned and run by former Miss Malaysia International, the gorgeous Andrea Franklin, 31, and her lawyer husband. Her equally lovely sister-in-law Sherina Begum helps out as the operations manager.

The dishes, from different parts of India, are cooked by chefs specially brought in from the sub-continent. They are quite different to our local Indian dishes, but just as delicious.

Instead of coconut, yoghurt or finely-ground nuts make up the base.

A slow cooking process imbues the meat or vegetables with the gorgeous aroma of the spices, resulting in a delicious, thick curry perfect for scooping up with a hot, moist piece of home-made naan or paratha bread, (of which they have a good selection).

The curries are also great eaten with fragrant pilau or briyani made with non-sticky basmati.

The Chicken Parettal, a South Indian dish cooked in spicy masala, is a good choice, and so are the Mutton Rogan Gosh and their special, Pepper Prawn. The Chicken Curry was great, quite hot and spicy, but it can be toned down with a yoghurt raita if you prefer it milder.


Peppery: (clockwise) Garlic Naan, Vegetable Pilau and Chicken Parettal

For starters, what about a tender Murg Masalam, a quarter tandoori chicken topped with a mild, tasty cheese sauce, or a crispy fried samosa?

The Fish Tikka is a good low-fat choice but there are soups and a healthy selection of salads and vegetable dishes.


Roasted to perfection: Fish tikka marinated in yoghurt, herbs and spices.

Aroma Of Fresh Bahulu

By ZULKIFLY MOHAMAD

FAMOUS Mengkuang Titi bahulu (traditional muffin) maker Che Som Man, 63, is fighting against time to deliver orders for her aromatic bahulu to customers before Hari Raya.

She has hired more workers and stocked up some 200,000 bahulu so as not to disappoint her customers.

Her bahulu is not only in big demand during Raya. Orders for the muffin double during the Chinese New Year.

Che Som began selling her bahulu in a small way back in 1982. She was making about 30 pieces daily then.

“They were snapped up immediately when they were put up for sale at sundry shops.

“I expanded my business by buying two ovens to meet the demand especially during Hari Raya,” she said at her Mengkuang Titi home in Bukit Mertajam, Penang.


Watchful eye: Che Som supervising the workers.

She said she bought four more ovens as orders kept pouring in, adding that she had to abandon the slow traditional method of using coconut husks to bake the muffins.

“I would lose customers if I continue with the traditional method. I need ovens in order to deliver the bahulu on time, especially during Hari Raya,” she said.

Che Som said she made 20,000 pieces of the bahulu daily beginning from the second half of Ramadan.

She said she used four gunny sacks of sugar weighing 50kg each, eight gunny sacks of flour and over 2,000 chicken eggs daily.

Her bahulu comes in different shapes and sizes.

She also makes goldfish and fruit-shaped bahulu and other designs as required by her customers especially during wedding ceremonies.

Che Som said she was using five giant modified ovens now. Each can bake 144 pieces at any one time.

Her son Zahari Md Akhir, 30, said the family was planning to market the bahulu nationwide and also internationally.

Zahari said a Chinese businessman ordered 70,000 bahulu from him daily one month before every Chinese New Year.


Neat rows: Zahari and wife Norhana Mohd Noor helping to pack the bahulu in boxes.