Saturday, October 27, 2007

Well-Travelled Chef Shares His Passion For French-Euro Cuisine

By GEETHA KRISHNAN

IT is a known fact that we locals love our food but do we know enough about it?


Plush decor: Brasserie La Place beckons with its black interior and coordinated furniture.

When S. K. Cheah opened Brasserie La Place in Damansara Utama, his intention, aside from embarking on a business venture, was to share his food knowledge with fellow Malaysians.


Lean: Foie Gras in Balsamico.

The well-trained and well-travelled chef spent 36 years of his life in Europe, working in Netherlands, Switzerland, France and Canada. His last stint was at the Amsterdam RAI International Exhibition and Congress Centre in Holland.

Over lunch at Brasserie La Place (pronounced Plas in French), Cheah explained that Europeans took their meat seriously and had a tendency to frown on strong marinades.

“Red meats are best served medium rare so the natural flavour and juices can be relished. Over-marinating masks the real taste of meat while well done steaks, depending on where the meat was procured, can turn out leathery,” he said.

According to Cheah, the five-month-old Brasserie La Place goes by standard European dining requirements and diners are advised to order their meats medium rare for a European culinary experience. Wine reductions are also big here.

Brasserie La Place offers upscale French-European cuisine without burning a hole in your wallet. The three-course set lunch with five different main courses is RM19.90++.


Rich offering: Grilled King Prawns with Blue Cheese Sauce.

The decor here is swanky, featuring chic dining furniture in plush black, paired with elegant chandeliers dangling black-and-white crystals. There’s the bar, function room and private lounge for aperitifs.

Lately Cheah has been overseeing the running of the restaurant and has placed head chef Chia Lai Heng in charge of the kitchen. They are in the midst of adding new items to the a la carte menu.

Both also swear by chilled beef from Australia for superior taste, texture and quality. The Beef Carpaccio was spectacular with raw slivers of tenderloin accompanied by capers, sun-dried tomatoes and cheese shavings.

Curing is an important process for the Foie Gras with Balsamico because the combination of port and cognac ensures the goose liver stays lean and fat-free.


The best part of every meal: Choux Chocolate Fondant is a must have for all dessert lovers.

Cheah is contemplating introducing cold soups like vichycoisse and gazpacho. His restaurant serves Cream of Cucumber and Mint, a hot, refreshing soup enjoyed by most.

“We had reservations about the soup because Malaysians are not big on cooked cucumbers. The cream and mint has made all the difference,” he said.

A generous and tasty stuffing of turkey ham and shiitake mushrooms goes into the Stuffed Spring Chicken with Duxxels in Supreme Sauce. For the lamb special the natural choice would be Sauteed Lamb Cutlets with Honey and Rosemary Sauce. The herb arms the meat with a lovely fragrance.

You’re assured of fresh crustaceans for the Grilled King Prawns with Blue Cheese Sauce. The sauce might be an acquired taste but Chia’s decision to include spaghetti in the dish tones down the strong flavour.


Chef’s choice: Brasserie La Place chefs recommend that red meats be savoured medium rare.

Keen on offering the best even for dessert, Chia uses Belgian bittersweet chocolate for the Choux Chocolate Fondant. Its gooey centre oozes rich chocolate but it is best to savour the platter of mixed berries and sliced fruits first before embarking on the decadent chocolate experience.


BRASSERIE LA PLACE (Pork-free) 55B-59B,
Uptown 37, 2nd Floor (above HSBC),
Jalan SS21/37, Damansara Utama,
Petaling Jaya, Selangor (Tel: 03-7710 5562).

Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (noon to 2.30pm) and dinner (6pm to 9.30pm).
Closed on Sunday.

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