Splendid Spread

Street Food


PENANG
NEW LANE
Open 1pm-late. Traders’ day off varies but most close on Wednesdays

NEW Lane is one of the best places in town to get a feel of Penang’s grastronomic offerings. With about 40-odd stalls operating on both sides of the lane, the choices are seemingly endless – from noodles to satay, freshly made apom balik to piping hot kuih dadar. Take a walk around the stalls before making that difficult choice of what to eat.



Many come here for the intestine porridge or chee cheong chook. Pork intestines are marinated in sugar and sauces and then smoked before being deep fried. The crunchy, peppery intestines are served on mushy, smooth porridge with offal added. The only stall that offers this opens at 1pm, and the porridge usually runs out by 7pm.

Also good is the pork satay from the Satay & Ayam Panggang stall (opposite Maxim Cafe). The pork satay is succulent while the peanut sauce (tangy thanks to the addition of tamarind juice) will perk up your appetite for more!

Some stalls on New Lane open early in the afternoon, while most only start their business after 5pm.


KAMPUNG BARU, KUALA LUMPUR
Nasi Lemak Raja Abdullah
15, Jalan Raja Abdullah, Kg Baru
Open 7am-10pm. Closed during Raya

THE first thing you’ll sniff out at this 21-year-old stall is the aromatic rice, steamed in a wooden bucket with coconut milk and pandan leaves. Join the morning queue to pick what you fancy – chicken rendang, sambal sotong, etc.



The sambal ikan bilis here tends to be sweet rather than spicy. The deep-fried paru (beef lungs) are especially good, served with a mix of shredded deep-fried lemongrass, ginger and galangal. You’ll need to get here early if you’re after this dish, as it tends to run out quickly.

For lunch, a variety of dishes are served, including asam pedas and masak lemak cili api, as the owners hail from Malacca. In the evenings, nasi lemak is served from 5pm.


KOTA BARU
Yati Ayam Percik
847, Jalan Long Yunus (Jalan Pekeliling). Tel: 09-747 9867
Open Saturdays to Thursdays noon-11.30pm / Fridays 3-11.30pm

SURE, the ayam percik here is fantastic – but the nasi kerabu is simply to die for! Most folks swear by it. The fluffy rice comes with heaps of vegetables such as bean sprouts, finely cut cabbage and polygonum leaves, as well as budu (fermented anchovy sauce), kerisik, sambal and fish crackers. Mix it all together for a wonderful burst of flavours in your mouth.

There are three colours of rice available – white, yellow and blue. The daging bakar or roast beef is tender and aromatic. Kerutup ayam – a type of rendang synonymous with the East Coast – is another good choice; the chocolate-coloured kerutup is full of spices with a tinge of sweetness but isn’t spicy.

Mee Bandung Revisited

Food Trail
By SAM CHEONG


FIRST of all, I would like to thank all the readers out there for the helpful suggestions sent in via email.

There are plenty of good makan places that I would like to check out and, recently, Pak Hassan, an old fishing buddy of mine who has relocated to Subang Jaya from Puchong alerted me about a Mee Bandung Muar stall in USJ 11.


Kedai Kopi 333’s local coffee and starters: Half boiled eggs and kaya toast.

“Eh Sam, you should check out this stall-lah. In my area, there are not many food operators – especially the Malays – who offer a simple noodle dish like that.

“I find that the price is also very reasonable. But, there is a catch, you can only get to try the Mee Bandung after sunset,” he said.

I took the cue from Pak Hassan because there have been numerous requests from readers for makan places that are halal.

Kedai Kopi 333 at Jalan USJ 11/1J was formerly a mamak restaurant and, recently, a bumiputra entrepreneur had taken over the business.


Generous portion: Mee Bandung Muar

With some detective work, I learnt that the outlet is operated by Mohd Adib Sidek, an old hand at street food.

Adib is known for his other outlet in SS15 called Kafe FAB. This is also the guy responsible for the Sup Bomba and Nasi Telepon Booth.

With Pak Hassan’s recommendation in hand, I went over to the Kedai Kopi 333 after office hours. It wasn’t hard to locate the eatery as it is brightly lit during the night.

When I got there, the first thing that caught my attention was a stall with a signboard that read Mee Bandung Muar.

But, before I delve into this traditional Malay dish, here’s a side story; when I was growing up near the Jalan Raja Bot market, I had a school friend named Anuar Saad.


Spicy treat: Nasi rendang minang

His mother ran a stall specialising in Mee Bandung and she would often offer me a serving at no charge, although at RM1.50 a plate, the price was reasonable for the late 1970s.

The noodles were tasty and you would find the standard garnishings like chopped coriander, fried shallots, slices of tofu, a poached egg, beef slices and shrimps.

To me, Anuar’s mum’s cooking has become the benchmark for a good Mee Bandung. As a matter of fact, some of the stalls at Jalan Raja Bot still offer the dish, though whether Anuar’s mum is among them, I do not know. Perhaps a follow-up trip is in order!.

Back to Kedai Kopi 333. I met the stall operator who goes by the name Rosli ‘ganu (he’s from Terengganu) who told me that he learned the Mee Bandung Muar recipe from several masters from Johor.

“Ah, Mee Bandung ni, saya berguru dengan orang Batu Pahat. Dan perisa Mee Bandung Muar ni memang lain pasal kita guna banyak udang kering dan sup tulang.” (I learned this from a guy from Batu Pahat and to prepare the gravy, I use plenty of dried shrimp and beef stock.)

I gave this noodle dish a try at RM5 a helping and found it to be decent tasting. There’s a generous portion of egg noodles and garnishing to go around.

While I was savouring the Mee Bandung, I also noticed customers ordering take-away portions. On average, Rosli said he could sell up to 50 plates of noodles a night.

He added that demand soared during the weekends, especially if there was a late night televised soccer match. Well, for RM5, I had nothing to complain about.

According to Rosli, Kedai Kopi 333 also specialises in rice dishes like the nasi ayam percik and nasi rendang minang.

I tried the coffee here and found it to be just average. Anyway, the outlet is one of the very few Kopitiam that is fully managed by a Malay owner.

So, on that note, the food there which is based on the Southern way of preparation is commendable.So, if you plan to make a trip to Kedai Kopi 333 for a plate of Mee Bandung, the best time is from 7pm to 10pm.

For handheld GPS owners, the coordinates are: 3 2’ 23” N, 101 34’ 44” E. Oh, last but not least, if you own a cellphone that uses the A-GPS mode, be reminded that data packet charges applies to this function. So, till the next outing, happy hunting and have a good makan!

The Place For Fish Head Curry

Food Trail
By SAM CHEONG


THERE is a fish head curry stall in Kampung Attap where the “who’s who” in Kuala Lumpur frequently hang out.

This place had eluded me for nearly a year since I planned to have lunch there with my colleagues Frederick Fernandez and Y.P. Sivam. Our last attempt to makan there ended in failure because the stall was closed.


Growing business: The stall has expanded its operations to this shop in Kampung Attap.

If you love fish head curry, this is one of the highly recommended places in the city centre.

As for the “celebrity list” of who eats here, suffice it to say I heard that local singers, actors, actresses, corporate bigwigs and even politicians have checked it out.

The place in question is ZK Kari Kepala Ikan. It has been around for decades and became the talk of the town among food lovers.

I had heard of this place from a cab driver some 15 years ago while we were driving past a ramp near Kampung Attap. “Eh, kalau abang nak makan nasi campur murah, ah, ni tempat dia (if you want to pack your nasi campur, this is the place),” he said.


Generous portion: The curry fish head is enough to feed at least three people.

So, after giving it a miss for nearly a decade, I finally checked it out three years ago. To get my fill, I rounded up some old kaki, namely, C.M. Khor, Philip Lim and Lee Hon Yew.

These are guys who love food and I value their opinion, especially that of Lee, who has been a photographer for more than four decades.

I find the fare here pretty decent. The stall offers curry fish head at RM50 a pop, and besides that, you can also savour its ayam madu (fried chicken with honey gravy).

To get a fresh perspective on this, I revisited the stall with my colleague Frederick and Adrian Phung, one of the interns on our desk.

“Eh, Fred, if we want to makan there ah, better leave early because the place is usually crowded during lunch time,” I advised.

So, after we completed our morning duties, we left for the stall from Menara Star in Section 16 via the Kerinchi Link. The journey took us about 15 minutes.

Finding a place to park around the Kampung Attap area can be a hassle. Paid parking lots are an option but many of the patrons here choose to double park their vehicles along the busy stretch, which has proven to be a problem to some motorists.

Once we had located a parking spot, we took a walk to the makan place and found a large crowd there. We picked a strategic place to sit, with the stall and its crowd in full view.

Frederick ordered a serving of curry fish head and each of us settled on the ayam madu as our side order. Service was prompt, with the food delivered in less than 10 minutes.

We had the ikan merah (red snapper) head served with lady’s finger, eggplant and taufoo pok (bean curd). The standard side orders that come with our order were taugeh masak kobis (bean sprouts and cabbage) and acar bawang cili hijau kicap manis (sliced onions with green chillies and dark soya sauce).

Where taste is concerned, I would say that it was pretty decent. On a scale of 1-10, ZK kari kepala ikan would rate a 6. The portions are generous, and to savour the fish head, you will need a minimum of three persons. We were fortunate to have Phun to back us up during the makan session.

My only grouse is that the fish head was not cleaned properly. I found some scales on the fish head, which was a turn-off.

But, that did not stop me from enjoying my favourite part of the dish – the fish eyeballs. And, as Frederick and Phun did not share my taste for it, the pleasure of sucking the soft, jelly-like flesh and chewy eyeballs out of the fish head’s eye sockets was all mine.

Before that, I polished off the lower jaws, lips and tongue of the snapper. Our bill for the day came up to RM84. A hefty sum, but if you share the cost, it is a worthwhile experience.

Well, just as we were walking back to our car, two decently dressed guys approached me and introduced themselves.

I immediately sized them up and assessed the situation. From the first impression, they looked like thugs from the tiga line group. But, they were polite, and that made the difference in a standoff situation.

“Eh, encik tadi ambil gambar untuk tujuan apa?” one of them asked. So, I told him that I took photos of the stall’s exterior as a visual reference so that I could introduce the curry fish head place to my friends.

I was not intimidated by their action, nor was I in a state of panic. With my “how to get out of a hairy situations” training, I told them that they had nothing to worry about. Perhaps they, too, were intimidated by my sheer built and having politely addressed the situation, they backed off with a smile.

Later, I learnt that some politicians were having their lunch there and as we drove past a row of cars parked on the roadside, I saw the vehicle of a high-ranking government official, which explained the cloak and dagger situation that I had experienced. The guys who had come up to me and asked the purpose of my taking pictures there might have been the bigwig’s escort detail.

But, back to how to get there: since there are no direct bus routes to this area, the highly recommended way to get there is by carpooling.

You can also take the KL monorail and get off at Jalan Maharjalela. From the monorail station, it is about a 12-minute walk to get to the stall, which is located at the far end corner of Jalan Kampung Attap.

If you own an in-vehicle GPS navigator, the lat - long coordinates are: 3 8’ 31” N, 101 41’ 43” E.

So, have fun and a great time!

Dishes To Celebrate A New Addition

Story and Photos by JASON LIOH


THE annual Malacca Food Festival saw celebrity chefs and representatives from the state’s diverse community dishing out local delicacies for tourists and members of the public.

Organised by the Malacca Museums Corporation, the four-day event was a hit with people from all walks of life who were offered a free taste of specialities and traditional dishes from the Chinese, Malay, Indian, Chitty, Baba-Nyonya, Portuguese and orang asli community.

The theme chosen for this year’s festival was ‘baby’s full moon’ celebration where participants were required to prepare dishes for their respective communities for such an occasion.


Piping hot: Mother and daughter team Tan Geok Lian and Yong Yu Ting dishing out prawn fritters.

During the event, Vinlah Rajadory from the Malaccas Chitty community was seen preparing a traditional dish called ‘sambal belimbing’ using fish roe, prawns and star fruit.

“We used small prawns, star fruit, chilies, fish roe, herbs and spices to prepare this sambal dish,” said the 62-year-old retired nurse.

She also prepared labu masak pedas dengan ayam’ or spicy pumpkin chicken as her second dish that was served throughout the morning which she described was a combination of sweet, sour and spicy.

“These two dishes are a must to celebrate the baby’s full moon. However, we also prepare these dishes during festive season like Ponggal, New Year, birthdays and weddings,” she said.

Another participant, Velda Sv.velankanny, 46, who represented the Indian community, prepared traditional food like tosai, apom and kesary for visitors to savour.


Tasty: Helen Tan holding a box of pineapple tarts and traditional Nyonya ang ku kueh.

“People are familiar with the tosai and apom, but not the kesary. Kesary is an after meal dessert made using ghee, suji flour, condensed milk, raisin, cashew and cardamom,” the housewife said.

Meanwhile, orang asli participant Zuaney Sulaiman, 28, decided to go back to basics by preparing a complete meal including fish, chicken, white rice, vegetable and potatoes cooked in bamboo.

Cooks from the Baba-Nyonya community, on the other hand, prepared traditional delicacies like apam balik, layered steamed cakes, red eggs, ginger chicken, ang ku kueh and pineapple tarts.

“Red eggs and ang ku kueh are symbolic food for a baby’s full moon celebration. Both items symbolize prosperity and bring good luck to the baby,” 49-year-old homemaker Helen Tan Kek Lan said.

A booth serving nasi rembang from Selangor was also a hit among the visitors as everyone queued for a taste of it with the stall workers seen working non-stop.


Various ingredients: From top, clockwise, ayam masak ungkap, kerabu jawa, ikan masin bulu ayam, rempeyek, sambal goreng tempe, serunding kepala and steamed white rice in the middle are the ingredients for the traditional Selangor Nasi Rembang.

The rice dish was made of ingridients such as serunding kelapa, ayam masak ungkap, kerabu jawa, sambal goreng tempe, ikan masin bulu ayam and rempeyek.

Australian Peter Rowan gave two thumbs up to the organisers for organising the food festival where members of the public could sample the many traditional dishes prepared by various ethnic groups.

“I always worry that I would order something that I will never like whenever I patronize a local restaurant. The food festival solves my problem at one go,” said the 59-year-old property manager.

He added it was not his first visit to the historic city but it was the first time he was seeing such carnival being organised.

Eating Out

Sirloin Flavours



BE tempted by the succulent flavours of sirloin in different cuts from Australia and the US. Mark your calendars as Prime, Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur serves sirloin in a gastronomic affair this month. Meat enthusiasts are in for a treat with the Wagyu Sirloin with Butter Poached Chili Rosemary Fingerling Potato, Oven Dried Brisket Bacon Mille-Feuille with Potato Celery Mousseline, finished with a drizzle of Sarawak cracked peppercorn sauce. The Sirloin Sampler platter (with wagyu sirloin, Black Angus 200-day sirloin and pasture-fed sirloin) is another suggestion. The promotion is available for dinner until March 31. For reservations, call 03-2263 7434 or email dining.lmkl@lemeridien.com.

Peking Duck



THERE is no need to travel to Beijing for a taste of Peking duck. At Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s Xin Cuisine Chinese Restaurant, traditional Peking duck is the signature dish this month. The outlet’s Peking duck promotion has more to offer than just the duck-filled crepe delight as there is Stir Fried Sliced Duck Meat with Ginger Spring Onion, Double Boiled Soup Duck Bone with Preserved Vegetable, Wok Fried Rice with Diced Duck, Stir Fried Egg Noodles with Shredded Duck and Stir Fried Diced Duck Wrapped with Lettuce and more. The dishes are available for lunch and dinner at RM58++ per duck. For reservations, call 03-2144 2200 ext 2338 or 2144 8750.

Tea Treats



THE Lobby Lounge of Hotel Nikko Kuala Lumpur presents the opportunity for you to relax and indulge your tastebuds with the introduction of three afternoon tea sets - Local Afternoon, English Afternoon and Asian Afternoon. Available from Monday to Friday, from 2pm to 6pm, the Local Afternoon Tea serves delights like Cucur Udang with Chili Dip, Tauhu Sumbat, Golden Banana Fritters and Pulut Panggang. Apple Crumble Tart and Prune Spiral are some delightful finds on the English Afternoon Tea platter while the Asian Afternoon Tea offers Malaysian Durian Tempura, Thai Money Bag with Chili Dip, Vietnamese Spring Roll, China Egg Doughnut Roll with Sweet Sauce and plenty more priced at RM38++ per person. For reservations, call 03-2782 6168.

DRAGON-I RESTAURANT, Lot S313A, 2nd Floor, New Wing, One Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ (Tel: 03-7725 8822). Business Hrs: Weekdays (11am-10pm); Weekends & Public Hols (10.30am-10pm). Non-halal. Popular for minced meat dumplings known as siew long pau, caramel pork ribs, ma po taufu, chicken fillet and vegetarian dishes.

RED GINGER, 18G-M Medan Setia 2, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, KL (Tel: 03-2095 3118). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (11.30am-3pm); dinner (6.30pm-10pm). Closed on Sun. Pork-free. A family-run business known for its good food, warm service and reasonable prices. Its cosy, laidback and unpretentious ambience make it the ideal venue for private functions. Red ginger plants line the front entrance. Small menu.

DEUTSCHES HAUS, 46 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2143 2268). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (noon-3pm); dinner (5pm-midnight). Non-halal. Serves authentic German cuisine with emphasis on sausages. Also stocks a wide range of excellent German beers. It has many speciality dishes.

LA GOURMET HOUSE, Lot G52, The Curve, Jalan PJU 7/3, Mutiara Damansara, PJ (Tel: 03-7725 4279). Business Hrs: Mon-Thurs (10am-10pm); Fri & Sat (10am-11pm). Halal. Special gourmet meals and speciality cakes are available daily for lunch and dinner. Gourmet merchandise like Dukka, herbs, spices, tea and coffee are also sold.

SENTIDOS TAPAS, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2145 3385). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Pork-free. Offers a relaxed atmosphere with a tantalising selection of hot and cold tapas. There is an extensive wine list and a range of imported beers.

LA COCINA & COPA DE VINO, 38 USJ 9/5P, UEP Subang Jaya (Tel: 03-8023 2395). Business Hrs: Restaurant, Mon-Sun, lunch (11am-3pm); dinner (6pm-midnight). Bar, Mon-Sat (5pm-1am). Halal. Indulge in a variety of authentic Spanish food in a comfortable and romantic environment. There is a wide selection of wines from Spain and all over the world. Salsa dance performances are on every Friday night.

MALAYAN AROMAS, Concourse Area, Ground Floor, City Square Centre, Jalan Tun Razak, KL (Tel: 03-2161 5094). Business Hrs: Daily (8am-10pm). Serves a good variety of quality local coffees especially blends with palm sugar. There is also an impressive selection of Malaysian favourites like Roti Malaya as well as Western and Italian dishes.

JOGOYA, T3, Relish Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2142 1268). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-2am). A Taiwanese chain specialising in brunch, lunch, dinner and supper buffets, priced at RM68++, RM78++ and RM88++ with a wide spread of seafood, Japanese, Western, Chinese and Indian dishes.

MUNAKATA JAPANESE RESTAU-RANT, Mezzanine Floor, Life Centre, 20, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL (Tel: 03-2166 7441). Business Hrs: Daily, lunch (12.30-2.30pm); dinner (6.30pm-11pm). Pork-free. Serves authentic and premium sushi, teppanyaki, a la carte and seasonal dishes. Set lunch and dinner also available.

BASIL LEAF RESTAURANT, 35 Jalan Damai, off Jalan Tun Razak, KL (Tel: 03-2166 1689). Business Hrs: Tues-Sun, lunch (noon-2.30pm); dinner (6.30pm-10.30pm). Relax while you eat here, enjoying Thai and Indo-Chinese cuisine. Bungalow is divided into six sections, separately themed for value-added dining experience.

PANDAN LEAF RESTAURANT, Lot S28, 2nd Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Lebuh Bandar Utama, Bandar Utama Damansara, PJ (Tel: 03-7728 6078). Business Hrs: Daily (10am-10pm). Halal. Penang Nyonya fare using specially prepared spices.

THE SHIP, JALAN SULTAN ISMAIL, 40-1 & 40-2 Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL (Tel: 03-2141 8805) Business Hrs: Sun-Thurs (noon to midnight). Still a hit among locals and foreigners. Serves escargots, Chinatown Shark’s Fin with Crabmeat, steaks in 18 different styles. Wait staff dress according to rank like sailors on a ship.

TONY ROMA’S, LL1.43, Lower Level One, Sunway Pyramid Shopping Mall, Jalan PJS 11/15, Bandar Sunway, PJ (Tel: 03-7492 1188). Business Hrs: Daily (11am-10pm). The people at Tony Roma’s are passionate about their food, adhering to standards set by the Orlando training centre. Expect hefty portions and enjoy the selection of margaritas, wines, martinis and liqueur coffees.

RESTORAN PIZZA UNO, 18 Jalan Puteri 1/4, Bandar Puteri Puchong, Puchong. (Tel: 03-8062 2530). Business Hrs: Mon-Fri, lunch (noon to 4pm); dinner (6-11pm). Sat & Sun (noon to 11.30pm). This new outlet sports a cosy contemporary atmosphere for tapas and wines besides serving a wide range of pizzas, pastas and desserts.

VANSH, Lot 9, LGF, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2142 6162). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Pork-free. Run by the award-winning Rang Mahal outfit of Singapore. Highlights regional Indian favourites. Focuses on tawa and tandoori delicacies served in bite-sized portions.

RESTORAN KOTTARAM, F102 & 103, Block F, Phileo Damansara 1, 9 Jalan 16/11, PJ (Tel: 03-7955 1077). Business Hrs: Daily (9.30am-10.30pm). Halal. Heralds Kerala culture and cuisine, served according to royal fine dining protocol. The outlet is divided into five sections with individual purposes. One of its bestsellers is the Kottaram Briyani.

FUSION

GONBEI, T2, Relish Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL (Tel: 03-2782 3801). Business Hrs: Daily (noon-1am). Halal. Uniquely Japanese, food, design and ambience-wise. It has a sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, robatayaki and tempura display cooking islands. Reputed to have the biggest collection of premium sake.

Aromatic Soups Beckon

By BONNY WEE

Many are drawn to the hot, herbal spicy soups at M. Nasir Soup Kambing in Malacca.

FOR a delicious bowl of piping hot mutton or chicken soup, make your way to M. Nasir Soup Kambing at ‘Medan Selera Datang Selalu’ located along Jalan Tun Lanang in Malacca city centre. The food court is sandwiched between two hotels, namely, City Bayview and Orkid.

For Mohamad Nasir B. Mohd Ahmad or popularly known as ‘M. Nasir’, age 44, who has been operating the stall since the food court opened in 2000, the demand for his “aromatic, herbal, spicy and thick” soup dishes has been growing steadily over the years.

Apart from dishing up mutton, beef and chicken soup using his own “secret recipe”, he also serves speciality dishes like those with bones, tongue and stomach.

According to Nasir, the torpedo soup is among the top sellers and his customers comprise not only locals but also those from out of town and who are attracted no less by claims of its aphrodisiac value. For side orders, there are cube slices of white bread or white rice available.


Hard at work: Mohamad Nasir dishing up his special soup.

“The soup takes seven to eight hours to prepare and cook and it’s done over a slow fire to ensure that the meat is tender and cooked just right.

“I have to be careful not to under-cook or over-cook the meat, and to use the right amounts of fresh herbs and ingredients, otherwise it won’t taste nice.

“I also go to the market every day to choose the right meat which I make sure is fresh. Above all, I cook it on a daily basis and there’s no keeping of left-overs,” says Nasir.

He readily admitted modifying the “flavour” in the initial years after checking it out with his customers and has now got it “perfectly right – not too hot nor too spicy” – and which everyone can enjoy.

Over the years, foreign tourists have also dropped by to try his mutton and chicken soup and some have even made return visits. With the aptly named food court, Nasir says in jest, “When craving for hot herbal spicy soup the customers ‘selalu datang’ (come always)!”

His stall is open daily from 6.30pm to 12.30am.

All Time Favourite Meal

By JADE CHAN

Restoran Makan Makan
5 Jalan Anggerik Vanilla M 31/M
Kota Kemuning
40460 Shah Alam
Tel: 012-2727862 (Simon) / 012-3796046 (Cynthia)
Business hours: Tues-Sun, 8am to 6pm. Closed on Mon.

Pork free

Eating at Restoran Makan Makan is like taking a walk down memory lane – most of its meals are served on coloured metal plates that are reminiscent of those from our grandparents’ and parents’ generation.

“Our concept is based on the old-school, homestyle cooking, and we specialise in all-time local favourite snacks and comfort food most Malaysians are familiar with,” said Simon Lau.


For the love of food: Cynthia Oh and Simon Lau opened the restaurant to share their passion for eating and cooking, and as an extension of Lau’s in-laws’ tong shui business.

The restaurant, which opened in June 2007, is operated by partners Lau and Cynthia Oh, and occasionally assisted by their respective spouses May Soo and Kaiser Tan.

Lau, Soo, Oh and Tan are a group of childhood friends who grew up in Petaling Jaya, and enjoyed serving guests with their home cooked food.

Soo explained that their restaurant is a natural extension of her parents’ tong shui business, and a way to share their passion for eating and cooking.

“My parents have been operating a tong shui stall called Soh Soo’s Desserts at Kedai Kopi Khoong in Seapark for over 30 years.


Sweet concoction: The Bubur Cha Cha is one of the several types of tong shui served at the restaurant.

“My husband was previously in the pest control business, but we were looking into venturing into something else,” she said.

“He sold off his business, then we roped in Cynthia (and her husband) to open this restaurant that is like a spin-off from my parents’ stall, with more items added to the menu.”

Oh said that most of the dishes were prepared using their own recipes and those from their families.

Some of the restaurant’s bestsellers are Tom Yam Fried Rice, Mee Mamak, Nasi Lemak with Fried Chicken, Yong Chow Fried Rice, Loh Mai Fun (Glutinous Rice) and Anson Chee Cheong Fun.

The tong shui, which come in hot and chilled varieties, include Red Bean, Pulut Hitam, Gingko Barley Fuchuk, Bubur Cha Cha and Sea Coconut with Longan.


Thai flavour: Restoran Makan Makan’s Siamese Laksa come highly recommended by their owners.

“Our tong shui is very popular among our customers, especially the Gingko Barley Fuchuk and Bubur Cha Cha. The texture is very smooth and its prepared fresh early every morning.

“We also have special tong shui that is served during weekends, like Mak Chok (wheat cooked with gula melaka), Green Bean and Tapioca,” said Oh.

The restaurant’s Siamese Laksa and Wu Tau Kow (Yam Cake) come highly recommended by their owners.

“We used to cook the Siamese Laksa whenever we had a gathering, and our friends gave us good comments about it,” said Soo, who got the recipe from her sister-in-law.

“The soup is a rich concoction of santan (coconut milk), spices, curry paste and fish stock from ikan kembung.

“We serve it with strips of ikan kembung and garnish it with mint leaves, bunga kiantan and cucumber.”


A variety of tong shui: (clockwise, from bottom) Sea Coconut with Longan, Gingko Barley Fuchuk and Pulut Hitam.

“The Yam Cake is a recipe of mine, and we can assure you there’s yam in the cake. It’s a steamed dish served with dried shrimp, spring onions and fried onions, as well as homemade chilli and sweet sauces,” said Oh.

She also makes the kaya for the Toasted Bread with Kaya and Butter snack, a Hainan-style snack that is available throughout the day.

The Glutinous Rice dish features rice steamed with stir-fried ingredients like onions, garlic, dried shrimp and mushroom, then topped with peanuts and spring onions for a crunchier flavour, while the Anson Chee Cheong Fun is a dish of steamed chee cheong fun that has its skin wrapped with dried shrimps and turnips.

“Its named after Teluk Anson (now Teluk Intan, Perak), and a lot of our customers say this dish is very similar to the one found there,” said Soo.

If you have room for more, choose from the wide array of Nyonya Kuih, including Bingka Ubi, Kuih Ketayap, Mochi, Pulut Tai Tai, Onde Onde and Pulut Inti.

Using His Grandfather's Recipe, Nasir Whips Up A Mean Mee Rebus

By DALILAH IBRAHIM

Back in the 1920s, Nasir's grandfather who is fondly known as Baidali created the recipe, which is a unique blend between mee rebus Mamak and mee rebus Jawa.

He then passed on the recipe to Nasir's father, Wahid, who operated a stall opposite Johor Baru railway station that became famous and a must stop for travelers arriving at and leaving Johor Baru in the 50s until the 70s.

Nasir was taught the recipe since he was young, helping out his father at the stall but when he was able to, Nasir spread his wings and operated his own stall near the Tebrau seaside.


Still going strong: Nasir Wahid, the third generation maker of Mee Rebus Baidali.

“Many of my clients then were Johorians who lived in KL. They urged me to 'migrate' so that it’s easier for them to get the mee rebus.

“ I moved to Kuala Lumpur in 1996 armed only with the family recipe and operated a small stall at Wisma Denmark in Jalan Ampang,” he said, adding that he moved to a location in Sri Hartamas when the food court closed down.

This Ramadan, Nasir operates from his current stall at Restoran Aji Don at Plaza Damas in Sri Hartamas and its branch at Kafe Mak Tim located at Jalan AU2C/2 in Taman Keramat.


One is just not enough: A bowl of Mee Rebus Baidali will only make you crave for more.

Selling at RM4 a packet, this special mee rebus is a best seller wherever it’s at. Nasir's clientele included the former Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamed and VVIPs who could not resist the temptation of Mee Rebus Baidali.

“Some just love the gravy, which is thick and rich with flavour and also the pendaram (crunchy homemade prawn crackers used as garnish) which is a necessary ingredient for this recipe,” he said adding that he stick closely to the recipe that he learnt from his family to maintain the original flavour.

The month of Syawal will also be a busy time for Nasir and his three assistants as they get many orders for individuals and corporate Hari Raya open houses.

Mee Rebus Baidali stall operated between 11am to 10.30pm daily except Sundays at Restoran Aji Don, Plaza Damas, Sri Hartamas. However, their Ramadan operation hours are from 5pm to 10.30pm.

Its branch at Kafe Maktim, Jalan AU2C/2, Taman Keramat operates daily between 5pm to 10.30pm.

A Must-Have For Raya

By FARIDAH BEGUM

The festive spread is just not complete without the ketupat.

MENTION ketupat, and cubes of compressed rice comes to mind. For many, it is an accompaniment to our favourite satay, a great conveyance for the multi-flavoured peanut sauce.

Its bland taste makes it suitable for almost any spicy and thick sauce and fills up the stomach when rice is not on the menu.

While we all know what ketupat is, what does ketupat stand for? Why ketupat and not just nasi something or other?


Demand: The ketupat is now enjoyed all year round with delicious meat dishes.

From my own research of a good number of kampung folks, which in the end started a debate after the terawih prayers recently, I believe the true meaning of ketupat is “ketuk sampai mampat” or “ketuk sampai padat” – which means knock until compressed.

For many who know ketupat in its fully cooked form may not realise that rice is fed into the square pouch, woven from young coconut fronds, and after several fillings, it is softly knocked at the base to ensure the rice is tight and no space is left in between the rice. If any holes or spaces are left, then they would be filled by excess water and the end product would be soggy and not compressed.

The pouch is filled half-full or even two-thirds for a harder version and then cooked for about three hours in a pot of boiling water and then left to hang and drip dry before it is consumed some hours later.

During the Hari Raya festivals, it is one of the must-haves. Today, since time is of the essence, many companies have begun putting on the store shelves instant ketupat that no longer need the coconut frond pouches but are instead filled into HDPE plastic bags and then cooked the same way as the traditional ketupat.

The ketupat is now enjoyed all year round with delicious meat dishes such as rendang, serunding (meat floss), peanut sauce and with the delicious satay or skewered meat.

Another variation of the ketupat is the ketupat daun palas, which is a triangular piece woven from the leaves of the fan palm.

Instead of rice, glutinous rice is used and it is later cooked in coconut milk and it is most often a delicious triangular piece of cake that goes well with all the dishes and sauces mentioned above or on its own, as most children would have it.

Extremely popular in the East Coast states and available in all nooks and corners of the country, the ketupat daun palas comes in two versions: one that is just glutinous rice and a little salt and another comes with a sprinkling of black-eyed peas, which adds a nice twist to the compressed rice cake.

The ketupat, both rice and glutinous rice, actually keeps well without refrigeration for about three days and if it is to be kept for longer, they can be frozen or kept in the fridge for a few days and recooked, either steamed or boiled again. In the case of the ketupat daun palas, it is best fried in shallow oil to seal its freshness after a couple of days.

Ketupat is also popular as a quick snack as it can be reheated and eaten with sugar, meat floss and sauces.

For the brave gourmets, it is also a good substitute for noodles in curry laksa, laksam and other creamy gravies and even with curries.

During the Hari Raya season, these ketupat, and even the pouches or the raw ingredients like the coconut fronds, are easily available in wet markets, the pasar tani and the festive markets set up specially by the Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (Fama) at most towns in the country about three days before the actual celebration.

Make A Beeline For This Broth

Story and photo by RASLAN BAHAROM
sundaymetro@thestar.com.my

Many are drawn to Bee Hon Sup Railway for its delicious soup made from the meat of ‘ayam pencen’.


Soupy goodness: One of Shahrin’s workers scooping out the steaming chicken broth to go with the tray of dishes for a customer.

THE wooden shop located in front of the railway station in Taiping is packed with people from all walks of life and creed. They are here just to enjoy a breakfast of bee hon or koay teow immersed in chicken broth.

But unlike the usual chicken broth, the one sold at Bee Hon Sup Railway (the name of the outlet for the past 20 years) is not made from the normal tender chicken meat.

The soup is actually made from the meat of ‘ayam pencen’, as Bee Hon Sup proprietor Shahrin Ahmad calls it.

“The normal chicken meat which we get from the market is too tender and will disintegrate when boiled for a long period,” Shahrin explains.

“Hence I have to use ‘ayam pencen’ as its hard meat can withstand prolonged boiling over the stove,” he says.

Shahrin sources his ‘ayam pencen’ from the various chicken farms which produce eggs in the district of Larut Matang and Selama.

“After a certain period such chickens no longer lay eggs, hence they are called ‘ayam pencen’,” he says.

Every day, Shahrin and his five workers check into the shop at about 5am where the broth is made – usually boiled for over two hours based on a recipe passed down from his late uncle Baharuddin Hashim or better known among his customers as Din Hong Kong.

Shahrin uses 10 spices, including bunga cengkeh, bunga lawang, jintan putih, jintan manis, lada putih, and lada hitam, for his chicken broth.

By 9am, his customers would have begun flocking to his shop but the day’s supply, enough for about 250 customers, usually goes off the shelf before noon.

“Since the business began about 20 years ago, we have never indulged in making broth from red meat as chickens are more universal and all races can enjoy my bee hon or koay teow,” Shahrin says.

His ketchup, laced with grounded chilli padi, is a must-have if one really wants to enjoy Shahrin’s ‘ayam pencen’ broth which costs only RM2.50 per bowl, with an additional 50 sen for an extra plate of boiled chicken meat.

Shahrin says he has no plans to increase the price as yet.

However like any other businesses, there are setbacks too, says Shahrin.

“A few years back when Bukit Merah near here had confirmed bird flu cases, my business took a dip.

“But now things are back on the right track,” says Shahrin, who plans to relocate his business to a proper restaurant some day.

Like any other aspiring businessman, Shahrin hopes to become a franchise owner so that his ‘ayam pencen’ broth can be savoured by more people.

Teeming With People

Story and photo by RENITA CHE WAN

The Shah Alam Ramadan bazaar draws a crowd of over a thousand visitors daily.

THE Ramadan bazaar in Shah Alam could arguably be one of the most interesting bazaars to visit in the Klang Valley as it has close to 100 stalls and all kinds of everything to choose from.


Big attraction: A crowd gathering at Amirul’s stall which sells kebabs on skewers.

Your usual nasi briyani, nasi tomato with ayam masak merah, ayam percik, sup tulang, satay, assortment of sweet cakes and rendang, and more, can be found here.

Every year during Ramadan, hawkers from all over the country would gather here to secure a place at the bazaar so they can display their best dishes and drinks.

The number of people who go to the bazaar could easily be around 1,000 to 2,000 people a day, so if you’re planning to make a stop, make sure you arrive before 5pm as it can be really crowded then.

As Sunday Metro browsed through the bazaar, a number of interesting stalls could be seen serving dishes not normally found at other Ramadan bazaars.

One interesting stall sells kebabs on skewers. Located at the very end of the row on the left if you’re coming from the Shah Alam Stadium entrance, the stall sells all kinds of kebabs imaginable.

There’s the barbecued kebab (chicken, lamb and beef), cheesy chicken scallop, grilled lamb, vegetables (tomatoes, capsicums, onions), cheesy beef on skewers and too many more to mention.

Four young men, who have been serving the same dish for the past eight years, manage the stall.

“Prior to those eight years, we used to sell these dishes at Taman Sri Andalas in Klang, Selangor, for close to two years but the response wasn’t that great,” explains stall owner Amirul Shahid.

“Since we have more helpers now, we have decided to set up our stall here because of the large number of people who visit this place,” he adds.

Amirul got the idea to sell his kebabs on skewers while watching a television programme and that particular show inspired him to try it out.

“At first we felt it didn’t make sense but we still went on with the idea, and surprisingly we received good feedback from our customers,” says Amirul.

Although it was a scorching hot day, it did not deter visitors from getting what they want, even if it means standing in a long queue for their turn.

This is especially true for Mohd Suffian Ismail’s stall that sells ayam golek and ayam madu.

Suffian says that both dishes, which are inspired by his Vietnamese mother, use Vietnamese herbs and spices.

“My mother’s from Vietnam and she’s a good cook. She was the one who taught me the recipes for these tasty dishes,” says Suffian.

“This is just a side thing I’m doing as I have a permanent job,” he adds.

He has been selling both dishes for close to 11 years at the Bangi and Kajang Ramadan bazaar but this is his first time selling them at the Shah Alam bazaar.

However, two years ago he had to move to New Zealand as the company he was working with moved there.

“I was in New Zealand for two years. Early this year, I received a phone call from my mother asking me to come back to help with the family business, so here I am,” he explains.

The sweet aroma of the grilled chickens filled the air, thus attracting a number of customers to gather around his stall to find out what was cooking there.

The Ramadan bazaar in Shah Alam is definitely a place worth checking out not only because the food is great, but also because non-food products such as accessories and handbags for women are available.

If you do decide to come over, you need not worry about parking space as the bazaar is located in the parking lot just behind the stadium.

Simply Smashing

Makan Makan: By FARIDAH BEGUM

You can cook fast and still dazzle your guests with showy and tasty stuff.

ONE of the most important lessons that I learned in the kitchen when I was in my teens was that you must be positive that what you serve will be good and tasty.

I believe that food is not about gluttony but about taking something into your body that you should appreciate and enjoy.

For this fortnight, I present to you a dish that embraces all cultures in the world – the briyani.

Call it any other name: paella, nasi minyak, pilau, kedgeree or any rice dish that combines all and sundry and it is this!

The prawn briyani is not unheard of as many of our Malaysian cooks are creative and have tried everything and anything that can be turned into a popular dish.


Little gourmet: My son Mustafa Kamel trying out (from front) the calamari rings, raita and prawn briyani.

For me, the briyani need not be loaded with ghee or cholesterol-high stuff but it must be pleasing to the palate and contributes to a great evening with family and friends.

During this holy month of Ramadan, the making of the briyani, as we prefer to call it here, is seen as an elaborate effort to show off to guests that you can really cook. Many may scoff at this, citing time and too much effort as reasons not to cook it.

Let me show you how easy and quick it is to do it and still be able to dress and relax while waiting for your guests to arrive.

I was also requested by friends to do something with calamari rings, which are hugely popular not only with the children but also with snacking adults.

Calamari rings are such that you should not spoil the batter coating it and you must never overcook it or you’ll end up with rubber bands.

Enjoy the prawn briyani with a cucumber and tomato raita that also makes a good topping for the calamari rings or rather a dip for a sourish and creamy taste.

Garnishing for the briyani is really up to you. It also depends on how you want it presented.

Thinly sliced omelettes or full-boiled quail eggs, sliced chillies, chopped coriander, fried onions and even fried almonds and fried chopped garlic are all great enhancements to an already great dish that can be eaten on its own or with rendang, dry masala chicken, beef or mutton and even with roasted chicken or other meats.


Prawn Briyani
Ingredients:
4 cups Basmati rice

2 packs of marinated garlic butterfly-cut prawns

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp ghee or butter

1 big onion – sliced

One stick of cinnamon, three each of cardamoms and clove and two pieces star anise

A handful of cashew nuts

3cm ginger and 3 cloves garlic (blended finely)

2 tbsp briyani spice (available at all supermarkets ready-mixed)

Salt to taste

1 tin evaporated milk

Chopped coriander leaves, fried onions, sliced chillies for garnish



Method:

Measure the rice in a measuring cup. Taking the same measurement, make up the same amount with the evaporated milk and water to top up. Heat up your rice cooker and put the olive oil and ghee in. When thoroughly melted, fry the cashew nuts until slightly browned before adding the spices and sliced onion.

When fragrant, add the blended ginger and garlic paste and sauté for another minute. Put in the briyani spice, salt to taste and sauté for a minute.

Add the evaporated milk and water and cover the rice cooker and let it boil. Meanwhile, wash your rice and drain the excess water totally.

When the milk and spices are boiling, quickly add in the rice and prawns, arranging the prawn so that it is buried in the rice.

Cover and let it cook. Once the water dries up, fluff the rice, slowly spading the rice from underneath to the top so that all the rice is cooked evenly. Once it is cooked, dish up to garnish and serve.




Calamari Rings and Cucumber-Tomato Raita
Ingredients:
1 packet tempura calamari rings, deep-fried and drained

Some salad leaves

1 cucumber, diced as preferred

10 cherry tomatoes, halved or

1 tomato, chopped up

1tsp salt

2 tbsp natural yoghurt

Juice from 2 limes



Method:

Put the cucumber and tomatoes together in a bowl. Add the salt, yoghurt and half the lime juice and mix well with a spoon, using a folding motion so as not to crush the tomatoes.

Taste and balance between the salt and lime juice to get a tart and easy blend. Chill it until ready to eat.

On a plate, arrange the salad leaves and the calamari rings on top of it. To eat, take a salad leave, wrap it round the calamari ring and add a little raita on top of it for a healthy snack.

Or have it with the briyani, as the calamari rings will add a great crunch to the whole meal.

Big Crowds Throng Ramadan Bazaar

By STEVEN DANIEL
Pictures by.MALEX YAHAYA

The annual Ramadan month draws over half a million visitors to the bazaar in Taman Cempaka in Malacca.

The easy access to the Melaka Sentral bus station and the popular shopping mall attract the visitors to the bazaar from 3pm until the wee hours of the following day.

An array of food items including kuih muih are the favourite food for breaking fast for Muslims while other would return later to shop for clothes from the numerous stalls.

The savoury dishes on sale include ayam percik, fried mee, yong tau foo, pulut udang, nasi kerabu, nasi padang, roti jala, satay, roti bom, nasi tomato, nasi campur and many more other dishes.

To quench the thirst, there are stalls selling coconut water, sugarcane, orange juice, sirap Bandung with jellies, teh tarik, barli and kiwi juice.

As you enter the bazaar in the evening, the first thing you will see is the large number of people queuing patiently in front of the food stalls.

Apart from the noise from the smell of food, customers can also get themselves entertained by watching one of the hawkers, Amin Abdullah, aged 10, tossing roti canai’s with ease and grace with his small hands.

Amin who is the youngest among nine siblings had mastered the art of making roti canai from his father six months ago and his ambition was to become a businessman.

Edwin Lee, 31, said he enjoyed visiting the Ramadan bazaar every year because he was spoilt for choice with the amount of foods available.

“Sometimes you can buy certain types of food here where it is not available during the rest of the year,” Lee said after buying a murtabak Arab ayam.

The hawker who sold the murtabak, Mohd Jaafar, 40, said business is excellent during the fasting month when he easily sells off his 250 pieces of murtabak each day.


A ayam percik trader braving the heat as he lays rows of the delicacy on the hot coal.

After the break of fast, the stalls selling clothes, accessories and textiles are the focal point for the shoppers.

Sisters, Siti Aqidah, 18, Siti Hajah, 19, and Siti Abidah, 17, from Taman Peringgit were seen shopping for their Raya baju kurungs.

“This night market has the latest fashion trends that you normally won’t see in shopping centres, plus it is nice and cool to walk at night, “ Siti Aqidah said.

Long Queue For Kassim’s Popiah

By STUART MICHAEL
Photos by GLENN GUAN

THE long queue at the popiah basah (wet popiah) stall at the Ramadan bazaar in Section 14, Petaling Jaya tend to astound passers-by.

Folks could be seen lining up at the stall as early as 2pm just to get their hands on the popular popiah. Rain or shine, nothing could stop the people from queuing up for the popiah made by Mohd Kassim M Ismail.


Hard at work: Kassim is not sure why many are hooked on his popiahs but he is surely not complaining about it.

A recent visit to the stall revealed a staggering line covering 50 metres right up to the mosque nearby.

According to Kassim, he learnt to make popiahs from his grandfather, the first to start selling it in the family.

“I have been making and selling popiah here for more than 20 years. None of the ingredients have changed from my grandfather's time and I sell them at RM1 each,” he said.


The much coveted popiah: The sauce seems to be the secret of its success.

Eventhough Kassim was equally baffled by his popiah's popularity, he conceded that he's grateful to be still in business after all these years.

“I am proud to continue my family's legacy and hopefully it will always be popolar,” he said.

So what's so special about the popiah?

Customer Fauziah Abas said the secret was in the sauce that Kassim used.

“Every popiah has the same ingredients but the sauce Kassim uses is tasty and authentic,'' she said.

Abbas P.K Rawthar, 76, who lined up for about half an hour to get his favourite popiah said he didn’t mind the waiting because the popiah was worth it.

“The ingredients blend well and of course the sauce makes all the difference,” he said.