Cheap And Good Vegetarian Fare

FOOD TRAIL
By SAM CHEONG


READER Phang Hui Leng wanted to know where she can find vegetarian chap-fan (economy rice) at dirt cheap prices. I received her e-mail recently and got cracking. As far as I know, there is one place in the shopping district of Kuala Lumpur that fits the bill.

It's located in a place called Kam Hor (golden river) in Jalan Sultan Ismail and yes, you guessed it right, it's Sungai Wang Plaza.

There, you can find a rooftop hawker centre that had been around for nearly 30 years.


Affordable: Le Tian vegetarian stall at Sungai Wang Plaza's rooftop hawker centre.

Today, it's still one of the hottest places in the city centre for cheap food.

Having worked in this area for three years, I found a vegetarian chap-fan stall called ‘Le Tian' at the far end corner near the shopping mall's lobby.

The food here is good and after a series of return visits, I still find it affordable and tasty. I also frequented this place occassionaly on Fridays taking advantage of the long lunch breaks.

The Sungai Wang rooftop hawker centre was also the place where I rekindled ties with my ex-schoolmate CK Ching. Ching, a regular at the stall said he was satisfied with the choice of dishes and usually satiated by a small serving of rice, tofu and vegetables.


Tasty: The vegetarian chap-fan from Le Tian costs RM5.50 a plate.

What suprised me at this stall was the wide range of vegetarian dishes. From stir-fried leafy vegetables to processed soya bean meals, there's enough variety to satisfy even the most fussy vegetarians.

And at prices below RM5 per plate (rice and a choice of two dishes), you could not complain. Highly recommended is the vegetable curry and fried Chinese cabbage with glass noodles.

Also on top of my list, is the vegetarian char siew (mock sugar-glaced roasted pork) and siew ngor (mock roast goose).

Since this is a self-service outlet, you just take what you want to eat and proceed to the counter and pay. Usually, my tab would come up to RM5.50 inclusive of a glass of Chinese tea.

I found this to be consistent throughout my visit to the stall. The stall opens for breakfast and is usually packed during lunch hour.

Just a block away from Sungai Wang Plaza, there's another vegetarian makan place.


Tasty: The vegetarian chap-fan from Le Tian costs RM5.50 a plate.

But this one is rather upscale, so, if you expect some good food, it can be found here.

My buddy Ching showed the way to the lower ground level of Low Yat Plaza. The eatery is called ‘Vegegood Restaurant' that serves a decent selection of local fare prepared a'la vegetarian. The person who manned the counter recommended their "Hainanese Chicken Rice" at RM5.50.

Since this is an upscale makan place, the average pricing for a plate of rice and dishes starts from RM5 and above. My buddy paid RM14 for two persons.

Now, compared with the rooftop in Sungai Wang Plaza, the Vegegood restaurant is a place where you can hangout and chit chat because it is a cozy environment.

To get to Sungai Wang Plaza, the fastest and most convenient way is to hop onto a KL-Monorail service to the Bukit Bintang station.

Once there, you could access the rooftop hawker centre on its fourth floor via a link bridge and elevator.

I believe address is not necessary since Sungai Wang Plaza is a well-known landmark in KL. For the Vegegood restaurant, it is located at Lot LG 13-15 in Plaza Low Yat.

To get there, take the KL-Monorail to the Imbi station.

Vegetarian Fare That Appeals

By YIP YOKE TENG

MOCK meat was created to make vegetarian cuisine appealing and acceptable to more people, especially those who find it difficult to do without meat. It was a good move both ethically and environmentally.

However, as mock meat is usually made of flour with dashes of colouring and flavouring, it does not find favour with the health-conscious. High consumption is certainly not recommended.


Palate teaser: The Golden Dry Curry Abalone Mushroom with Brinjal debunks the myth that vegetarian dishes are bland.

This concern led three partners, who were in the building material industry, to set up Vegipai. Al­­though the vegetarian fare served at the outlet contains no mock meat, it will appeal even to non-vegetarians with its careful selection and generous use of natural ingredients.

The proprietors also wish to promote vegetarian cuisine as an element of modern lifestyle, and to this end, they spent four months researching how this might be achieved.

Thus, the restaurant is designed to cater not just for the lunch and dinner crowd, but also for those who want to chat with friends, surf the Internet or even read a book over a cuppa in a comfortable atmosphere.

The concept starts with the decor. The spacious interior is coloured grey and white, with cushions in cream and pink on the bench and counter to lend a soft touch.

Timber flooring, decorative tree trunks and a flowering frangipani reflect the outlet’s environment-friendly principles.

The combination of colours and materials creates a cosy, creative and contemporary atmosphere.

“We are happy to learn that about 50% of our customers are non-vegetarians,” said Mak Tak Wah, who is one of the partners.

“We hope we can popularise vegetarian cuisine as a healthy alternative (to the normal diet) which will contribute to environmental conservation. It would be a blessing for us if we could do this,” he added.


Creamy and appetising: Whole Grain Mustard Penny has a pleasant tangy, creamy flavour that will leave a lasting impression.

The trio spent much time on finalising the menu, which offers local, Chinese and West­ern delicacies. Apart from brainstorming with two vegetarian chefs, they read extensively on the nutritional properties of various ingredients to create new healthy dishes.

“Seaweed, lemon grass and mushroom, for example, are nutritious and delicious ingredients but they have not been fully explored,” said Cansy Lam, another partner. “In fact, we learnt a lot of new things, too.”

She said more than 90% of the 60-plus dishes on the menu contained no mock meat, flavouring or colouring. Mock meat is used only as the binding agent when it is inevitable, such as wanton stuffing.

The steak and pate are made of soy or mushroom. The Mushroom Steak is a treat with its pleasantly springy texture and subtle natural sweetness, while the burgers are popular among children.

“The restaurant has no religious overtones and the menu has been well received by its customers, regardless of race and religion, Lam said.

The Longevity Pot is a treasure trove of mushrooms, including shiitake, superior, bear’s head, button and enoki, boiled with herbs. It tastes like Bak Kut Teh sans the meatiness.

The Whole Grain Mustard Penny, one of the newest additions, is a good choice for those who like a surprise. Whole grain mustard is a relatively alien ingredient on the local food scene, and it enhances the cabonara sauce significantly. The seeds impart a subtle tang when they burst in the mouth, while bits of celery add crunch to the creamy delight.

Those who prefer more robust flavours will find the likes of Golden Dry Curry Abalone Mush­room with Brinjal a delight.

Done kam heong style, this dish has a heady curry aroma that will tickle your taste buds, but even more impressive, the abalone mushroom has a taste and texture very similar to meat with a bit of fat – crunchy on the outside and tender inside.


Concentration of flavours: A hearty bowl of Nyonya Laksa prepared with generous use of natural ingredients.

According to Lam, this effect can only be achieved with precise control of heat and timing during the frying process.

Another recommended item for those with a preference for strong flavours is the Nyonya Laksa, with its generous use of lemon grass and torch ginger flower (bunga kantan), among others.

The restaurant does not neglect seasoned vegetarians, who can choose from a good range of dishes with clean and light flavours.

Health drinks and sweet soups are available to complement the array of food.

The restaurant will soon introduce its pastry selection to enhance its appeal as a lifestyle vegetarian cafe.

VEGEPAI, 37A, Jalan Desa Bakti, Taman Desa, Off Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-7982 8184). Business hours: 11am to 10pm, daily.