Seafood Well Done

Story and photos by GRACE CHEN


Fresh and well-cooked food brings foodies to Sungai Pelek.

We found E.P. Hoon Restaurant by chance. Located just opposite the Sungai Pelek, Selangor, big market, it is a typical tai chow diner. Though there had been earlier calls for a place with a better decorative concept, a wiser member of the group reasoned that one goes to a restaurant because of the cooking, not to admire the decor. Besides, she reasoned, the best tasting food have a tendency to hide in non-descript places like these.


Looks can be deceiving: The calamari rings scored big taste wise.

Thus convinced, we settled on a dinner of steamed Tom Yam garoupa, sizzling Japanese tofu, deep fried sotong rings and fried oyster served on a hot plate.

It took 45 minutes before our food arrived as the place was running on full. Throughout the waiting period, there was plenty of time to observe what the other tables were having. One interesting dish that appeared was chicken gizzards stir-fried in green peas. Based on guesswork, the cook must have a method for tenderizing the innards as gizzard is well-known for its resilient character. Judging from how one veteran diner with dentures was relishing the gizzards and green peas, the cook must have done a good job!

When our orders arrived, the steamed garoupa in Tom Yam sauce was the first to be “attacked”. There was much anticipation for the fish as Sungai Pelek has a known reputation for fresh seafood. We were not disappointed as the white, firm flesh lived up to our expectations. The spicy tom yam gravy was a tongue tickler with hints of tamarind and chillies and served to bring out the flavours of the garoupa.


Addictive: The steamed garoupa in tom yam sauce

While the ladies’ fingers added a nice touch to the dish, the sticky ooze from this vegetable would later impart a slimy consistency to the gravy. This was a sure sign that the cook had not blanched the cut ladies’ fingers in hot water before putting it on the fish platter. No one minded this a bit as the gravy was so addictive.

The best part of the fish would come last as we sucked the jelly-textured skin of the fish from the bones. By this time, the gravy had soaked into the deepest recesses of the fish to impart its spicy, aromatic flavours.

The fried oyster did not fall short of expectations either. A generous dollop of oysters was served atop a lake of soft scrambled eggs on a hot plate. The eggs which had been lightly fried were further stirred as the oyster hot plate arrived.

The heat gently cooked the egg and oysters further and maintained the natural flavours within the hot plate. For those who like their oysters unhindered, ensure that you remind the cook not to mix them up in a starchy solution. From experience, timing is an essential point when you want to serve ‘oh chien’ this way. It has to come straight from the wok to the table. Any delays and the heat will steam the egg and cause the oysters to sink in a hard protein covering and rob them of their subtle flavours.

As for the fried calamari there were some who opined that the cook could have been more thorough with the battering process as there were huge gaps revealing the white flesh which reminded one of a tattered shirt. But where the batter had covered the flesh, it was crisp on the outside but tender within which made for very good eating.

The freshness of the calamari meat also made up for its tattered appearance. The thick, white rings of sotong also had a firm but pliable texture which indicated that it had been cooked with the right amount of heat and time length. Naturally, they were a hit with the children who twirled the rings around their fingers before popping them into their mouths.


Tasty tofu: The sizzling Japanese tofu.

A good gravy to soften the white rice for the children was found in the sizzling Japanese tofu (RM10). Made out of bone and vegetable stock, it was darkened with thick soya sauce and in it were bits of minced chicken, chopped black mushrooms, prawns and corn kernels.

The soft pieces of Japanese tofu, which had been deep fried before hand, soaked the gravy up through its outer skin and the result was a flavourful bite. It was also a delightful sensation to feel the tofu melting in one’s mouth.

From the looks of it, this humble restaurant seems to have quite an influential following. This is evident from the framed up photos of the owner Yap Chin Hee, 51, posing with a former member of parliament. Yap who has been helming the restaurant’s kitchen for eight years revealed that he had started life in house construction before trading his hammer for an apron.

E.P. Hoon Restaurant is located at Lot 532, Jalan Pasar, 43950, Sungai Pelek. Tel: 03-3141 2124 or 019-269 8879.

Meal With A View

Story and photos by STEPHEN NG


The ultimate meal consists of good food and mesmerising sights.

When in Langkawi, at least one seafood meal is a must. Fresh, tasty and reasonably priced, it is no wonder that most visitors make a beeline for the numerous seafood outlets on here.

One such place that attracts patrons is the Pulau-Pulau Steamboat and Seafood Restaurant, fronting the yachts from all over the world at the Perdana Quay, which has an extensive menu that would satisfy the palate of both locals and foreigners.

According to the restaurant manager, Chin Siew Ling, between July and February, it is the Arab Season. “We have many of our guests from the Middle East, who enjoy our seafood here,” she said.


Great view: Enjoy your seafood meal with this view in the background.

The 44-year-old, formerly from Alor Star, said in the months of November and December, the Russians love to travel to this part of the world, and their favourite is the Tiger Prawns. “I had a guest, a gentleman from Russia, who ordered eight Tiger Prawns, weighing about 350 grammes each,” she said. “It is amazing to see him eat every one of them, and leave the restaurant feeling satisfied.”

The English tourists also like their Tiger Prawns big because they have never seen such big prawns before in their own country.

Tiger Prawns, one of the main signature dishes here, are being served as either grilled, cooked with curry leaves, Thai style, as deep-fried garlic or served with Tom Yam soup.


In charge: Manager Chin Siew Ling is at the helm of the restaurant

“Because the Tiger Prawns are fresh, they taste better with butter and garlic, dipped in Thai sauce. Fresh prawns have a special sweetness to it,” said Chin, who started the business together with her business partner, Ng Kim Pong.

Ng has been living in Langkawi since 1988, while Chin came to Langkawi in 1995. The 48-year-old Ng from Perlis was formerly in the stainless steel business but decided that he wanted to turn the wheel of fortune a second time.

Added Chin: “The tourists from China return to Langkawi throughout the whole year. Their favourite is the seafood steamboat, which comes with prawns, squids, noodles, mushroom, cuttlefish, vegetables, chicken, squid balls, eggs, fish fillets, beancurd and flower crabs. Guests can choose either Tom Yam or Chicken soup.

“Westerners and Chinese tourists usually choose chicken soup, but some of them are beginning to acquire the taste for Tom Yam soup.”

Local tourists, however, still prefer to try out the seafood that they serve here, said Chin. One of the other signature dishes is the Steamed Soya Fish, where the guests can choose anything from Sea Bass, Red Snapper to the Grouper.


Under the stars: Have your meal al fresco with swaying palms and lanterns

“Our Tiger Grouper, steamed with garlic, ginger, mushroom, chilli padi (bird’s eye chillies), and cooked with soya sauce, is a favourite dish with local tourists,” Chin added.

The restaurant which was opened on July 28, 2004 is frequented by Malaysia’s solo sailor, Datuk Azhar Mansor, who works at the Perdana Quay, which can accommodate up to 120 yachts at any one time. Several other celebrities such as Siti Norhaliza have also patronised the restaurant.

The restaurant has a halal certification, and at any one time, it can accommodate up to 200 pax. Open seven days a week from 1pm till 11pm, Pulau-Pulau Restaurant & Steamboat is located No G-12, Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park, Pantai Kok, 07000 Langkawi. Tel: 04-959 4089.

Hot Off The Grill

By FARIDAH BEGUM
Photo by BRIAN MOH

The ikan bakar is one irresistible dish not only during Ramadan but all year round.

THE aroma of grilled fish never fails to arouse the growling stomach, especially during the fasting month and at 5pm in the evening.

Grilled fish, or ikan bakar, literally translated from Malay to mean burnt fish, can actually make or break a fast.

It is hard not to imagine the slightly charred fish – fresh, flavourful and succulent – eaten with the delightful kicap or air asam, which is the dark soya sauce or tamarind juice with sliced shallots, bird’s-eye chillies and a dash of lime to go.


Tantalising: The ikan bakar, grilled to perfection, with some chilli to spice it up.

It is also one of the dishes that will ensure you have the second and third helping of rice.

The fish on its own is truly healthy as not a drop of oil is added while it is being grilled. And if the fish is really fresh, it can be had on its own without the sauces.

So, what actually makes ikan bakar so irresistible?

If at all, it is just a fish that has some salt or none at all rubbed over it and then it is placed on the grill, with the heat coming from hot glowing embers of charcoal.

In some instances, sambal or a chilli paste is slapped on to the fish to flavour it. Either way, it is not the ingredients but the slow cooking over the hot embers that brings out the great flavour of the fish.

A word of caution if you are trying to grill the fish at home: Make sure you have glowing embers at the bottom of your grill and not a bonfire as it could turn your fish into a log – hard, dry and burnt.

A good way to ensure that the fish is not charred beyond recognition is by wrapping the fish in a piece of banana leaf. Besides, this would add a nice fragrant aroma to the fish.

Many types of fish can be grilled but the best is the ikan kembung (mackerel), ikan pari (stingray), ikan jenahak, ikan bawal hitam, siakap, kerapu and ikan merah.

Oily fish such as terubok is equally good for grilling, as the fish would be flavoured with its own oil. Terubok is normally grilled with its scales.

The fish must be fresh, meaning it is preferably not from the freezer and its eyes are bright and not bloodshot. If the fish is even just a notch under fresh, it will not be an aroma to look forward to but a stink and very mushy flesh, nothing like the firm flesh that fish ought to be after it is cooked.

At many ikan bakar outlets, patrons are allowed to choose their “catch” and it is immediately cleaned and placed on the grill.

Besides fish, other seafood like prawns, squids, mussels and crabs are also part of the ikan bakar menu.

Good eaten on its own, the ikan bakar is even better with some rice, a hot and sour soup like tom yam or a spicy version such as ox-tail or rib soup and a nice vegetable dish, especially kailan with salted fish to round up the dish.

The fish is done simply enough but to have it with equally simple complementing dishes, it is the pathway to heaven!

Ikan bakar is easily available this month at Ramadan bazaars nationwide. Tom yam or Thai food stalls in most cities and towns serve grilled fish and are often the recommended dish of the outlet.

It is an especially popular dish that has its own dedicated outlets in all coastal towns in Malacca, Penang, Kedah, Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang.

In Malacca, a dedicated seafood complex was built in Umbai, Serkam, where some 20 traders sell grilled fish and seafood nightly accompanied with packets of nasi lemak, piled in sixes on plates at every table.

In Penang, at all night food areas, especially those where you can dine al fresco, grilled fish will definitely be on the menu.

In Kelantan, Tawang is the most popular town where grilled fish is available, besides the numerous Thai food outlets in Kota Baru.

Terengganu has grilled fish outlets scattered all along its coastline and the people here have grilled fish almost on a daily basis.

In Pahang, both sides of the road heading towards Pekan from Kuantan are dotted with fresh seafood outlets, where grilled fish tops the menu. A recommended outlet is Tanjung, where some 20 species of fish are available.

In Kuala Lumpur, The Star Guide to Malaysian Street Food recommends Sri Melaka Ikan Panggang in Jalan Bellamy (behind the Istana Negara) where the fish is marinated in a mixture of turmeric, salt, pepper and chili powder and then grilled.

In city centre, in Jalan Petaling, next to the Hong Leong Bank, is a stall that has a long queue after 6pm where fish and seafood are wrapped in aluminium foil and grilled.

In Kampung Baru, the Juara Tomyam is one of the best places to have grilled fish all year round.

Near the National Mosque in Jalan Cenderasari, Ikan Bakar Pak Din, which is Stall No.5 of the Kompleks Makan Tanglin, is a hot favourite, where the fish is only marinated with turmeric, salt and pepper and then grilled. It is the tamarind sauce that makes the difference here.

From Boat To Wok

By CLARA CHOOI
Photo by LEW YONG KAN

AS any discerning seafood lover will tell you, seafood is best eaten when the catch is fresh from the sea.

In the town of Sitiawan, located some 88km from Ipoh, this is the only way seafood is eaten; the morning haul goes straight from the boat to the wok.

In fact, a typical day of any restaurant owner at the town’s many coastal villages begins before the crack of dawn on a fishing boat out at sea.


Scrumptious: Ling Hock Ping showing some of the seafood specialities at his restaurant.

One such person is Ling Hock Ping, 50, whose restaurant Ah Pek Lee Kou Hock Seafood is one of the town’s most frequented open-air eatery.

The outlet is just one of the many popular restaurants located along Jalan Pasir Panjang in Kampung Cina.

“Whatever food I serve for the day comes from my morning catch. That way, everything is always fresh,” he said when met recently.

Hock Ping, who took over the restaurant business from his late father Ling Loo Loo 25 years back, goes out fishing every morning for six days in a week.

“We leave at about 5am every day when the sea is calm. My men and I will load up my sampan and spend a few hours fishing until our haul is big enough,” he said.

Once a sizeable amount of ikan kerapu, senangin, ubi, jenahak, bawal putih, oysters, mantis prawns, kerang, siput manis (sea snails) and tiger crabs are caught, the haul would immediately be brought back to the restaurant and business begins at 10am.

Hock Ping’s wife, Beh Ah Luan, 54, does most of the cooking at the restaurant and is helped by the couple’s three children, Keong Seong, 30, Siew Hiong, 27, and Siew Ing, 23.

Now, though the freshness of the seafood is important, the style it is cooked in is really what creates a scrumptious dish.

Here is where the restaurant earned its reputation for serving some of the town’s tastiest seafood creations.

Anything that gets steamed, fried, or grilled in Beh’s wok is always “drool-worthy” and customers there would vouch for that.

“I think what makes our food special is the fact that we created all the recipes.

“Everything was by trial and error. We taste the food at other restaurants, pick up the kind of taste that we find best and try to recreate it here by improvising,” said Hock Ping.

One of the restaurant’s most ordered dish is its steamed mantis prawns.

“People love this dish because it is steamed with butter and served over steamed egg,” said Hock Ping.

Steaming it, he added, brings out the natural juices of the mantis prawns and the butter lends the dish a slightly salty flavour.

Another delicacy and a favourite among many patrons is the siput manis (sea snails) dish.

“The snails are naturally sweet. All we need to do is steam them,” said Hock Ping.

To eat the snails, a toothpick or a fork is used to pry the snails out from their shells.

Some may find this a little distasteful but the sweet and juicy taste of the snail is enough to convince anyone otherwise.

Crab lovers, in turn, will not be disappointed when eating at Hock Ping’s restaurant.

Whether cooked in assam curry, sweet and sour chilli sauce, spicy black pepper gravy or steamed with butter, his fresh flower crab dishes will have you planning your next visit to the outlet.

The bright orange palm-sized crabs are so fresh that they are easily pried open and the slightly salty taste of the sea still drips from its tender meat.

Another seafood favourite at all of Sitiawan’s restaurants is the fried oyster omelette dish.

At Hock Ping’s outlet, the eggs are beaten to a fluff and fried together with the oysters, chillies and onions until they are brown and crispy on the outside and soft and fragrant on the inside.

“Besides this, I also have another oyster speciality – the bihun soup with oyster,” he said.

Instead of using the regular bihun, Hock Ping uses thick, white rice vermicelli imported from China.

“The taste of the bihun is different and it affects the soup by giving it a milky taste,” he said.

The bihun is boiled together with ginger, onions, lots of fresh vegetables, prawns, mussels and, of course, oysters.

“We make sure the soup is boiled long enough so the taste of the seafood comes out in the soup,” he said.

Besides that, the restaurant also serves all styles of prawns – buttered, steamed or cooked in tamarind and chilli padi.

Its fish dishes, too, are mouth-watering, whether cooked with ginger or deep-fried and laced with soy sauce.

“Still, at the end of the day, what’s most important to the customers is how fresh the seafood is.

“One way of knowing if your fish is fresh is by looking at its eyes. When they (the eyeballs) come out of their sockets when they are cooked, then you know it is fresh,” he said.

Of course, like all eateries in Sitiawan, the best way to wash down a wholesome seafood meal is by drinking cool toddy (coconut flower wine).

In fact, if you are lucky, you may just be just in time to taste the sweet and sour alcoholic beverage just as soon as it is made.

“Here in our shop, we buy our toddy from the local brewers. But everything is fresh, as usual, and made on the very same day it is served,” said Hock Ping.

So seafood lovers, take note.