Vegetarian Fare That Appeals

By YIP YOKE TENG

MOCK meat was created to make vegetarian cuisine appealing and acceptable to more people, especially those who find it difficult to do without meat. It was a good move both ethically and environmentally.

However, as mock meat is usually made of flour with dashes of colouring and flavouring, it does not find favour with the health-conscious. High consumption is certainly not recommended.


Palate teaser: The Golden Dry Curry Abalone Mushroom with Brinjal debunks the myth that vegetarian dishes are bland.

This concern led three partners, who were in the building material industry, to set up Vegipai. Al­­though the vegetarian fare served at the outlet contains no mock meat, it will appeal even to non-vegetarians with its careful selection and generous use of natural ingredients.

The proprietors also wish to promote vegetarian cuisine as an element of modern lifestyle, and to this end, they spent four months researching how this might be achieved.

Thus, the restaurant is designed to cater not just for the lunch and dinner crowd, but also for those who want to chat with friends, surf the Internet or even read a book over a cuppa in a comfortable atmosphere.

The concept starts with the decor. The spacious interior is coloured grey and white, with cushions in cream and pink on the bench and counter to lend a soft touch.

Timber flooring, decorative tree trunks and a flowering frangipani reflect the outlet’s environment-friendly principles.

The combination of colours and materials creates a cosy, creative and contemporary atmosphere.

“We are happy to learn that about 50% of our customers are non-vegetarians,” said Mak Tak Wah, who is one of the partners.

“We hope we can popularise vegetarian cuisine as a healthy alternative (to the normal diet) which will contribute to environmental conservation. It would be a blessing for us if we could do this,” he added.


Creamy and appetising: Whole Grain Mustard Penny has a pleasant tangy, creamy flavour that will leave a lasting impression.

The trio spent much time on finalising the menu, which offers local, Chinese and West­ern delicacies. Apart from brainstorming with two vegetarian chefs, they read extensively on the nutritional properties of various ingredients to create new healthy dishes.

“Seaweed, lemon grass and mushroom, for example, are nutritious and delicious ingredients but they have not been fully explored,” said Cansy Lam, another partner. “In fact, we learnt a lot of new things, too.”

She said more than 90% of the 60-plus dishes on the menu contained no mock meat, flavouring or colouring. Mock meat is used only as the binding agent when it is inevitable, such as wanton stuffing.

The steak and pate are made of soy or mushroom. The Mushroom Steak is a treat with its pleasantly springy texture and subtle natural sweetness, while the burgers are popular among children.

“The restaurant has no religious overtones and the menu has been well received by its customers, regardless of race and religion, Lam said.

The Longevity Pot is a treasure trove of mushrooms, including shiitake, superior, bear’s head, button and enoki, boiled with herbs. It tastes like Bak Kut Teh sans the meatiness.

The Whole Grain Mustard Penny, one of the newest additions, is a good choice for those who like a surprise. Whole grain mustard is a relatively alien ingredient on the local food scene, and it enhances the cabonara sauce significantly. The seeds impart a subtle tang when they burst in the mouth, while bits of celery add crunch to the creamy delight.

Those who prefer more robust flavours will find the likes of Golden Dry Curry Abalone Mush­room with Brinjal a delight.

Done kam heong style, this dish has a heady curry aroma that will tickle your taste buds, but even more impressive, the abalone mushroom has a taste and texture very similar to meat with a bit of fat – crunchy on the outside and tender inside.


Concentration of flavours: A hearty bowl of Nyonya Laksa prepared with generous use of natural ingredients.

According to Lam, this effect can only be achieved with precise control of heat and timing during the frying process.

Another recommended item for those with a preference for strong flavours is the Nyonya Laksa, with its generous use of lemon grass and torch ginger flower (bunga kantan), among others.

The restaurant does not neglect seasoned vegetarians, who can choose from a good range of dishes with clean and light flavours.

Health drinks and sweet soups are available to complement the array of food.

The restaurant will soon introduce its pastry selection to enhance its appeal as a lifestyle vegetarian cafe.

VEGEPAI, 37A, Jalan Desa Bakti, Taman Desa, Off Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-7982 8184). Business hours: 11am to 10pm, daily.