By SAM CHEONG
ASAM laksa is a noodle dish that you might love or hate. Why? It’s different from any other spicy and savoury food that you have ever tasted. Originating from the North, the asam laksa found its way to the Klang Valley through urban migration.
My fondest memory of this particular noodle dish was when I was a kid growing up near the Chow Kit wet market. My family had a small business there and every evening, a man on a tricycle that he had modified into a mobile kitchen would go on his rounds.
Now, what made his selling technique unique was the loud ding! he made with his porcelain spoon and bowl.
A good deal: The asam laksa stall in Nanking coffee shop.
Around 5pm, the man will go on his rounds calling: laksa! laksa! ding! ding! ding! and in a matter of minutes, his tricycle would be swamped by a steady queue of hungry noodle lovers.
The moment our friendly neighbourhood laksa-man uncovers his pot of hot asam laksa gravy, the lovely aroma would permeate the air.
Well, that was some 30 years ago when a small bowl of asam laksa cost RM1.
What made the experience memorable, was the gravy, its ingredients and the garnishing.
A good bowl of asam laksa comes with a rich gravy consisting of finely minced ikan kembung (Indian mackerel), a blend of spices and tamarind juice.
You can have either beehoon or the lai fun (coarse vermecelli) and the noodles are usually garnished with grated cucumber, fresh red onions, pineapple, chopped bunga kantan (wild ginger), red chillies and mint leaves.
As the asam laksa is an acquired taste, some folk may find it too sour and tangy. Having travelled vastly around the country, I’d say that the best asam laksa is found in Penang.
An acquired taste: Nanking coffee shop’s asam laksa.
However, if you live in the Klang Valley, there are still places that offer this noodle dish.
The trick is to know where to find it. I wouldn’t recommend having a bowl of laksa in posh outlets because it’s going to cost you at least RM15 a bowl.
I set out on a quest to locate the best asam laksa and I focused on a few coffee shops in the Klang Valley.
First on my list, was a coffee shop recommended by my friend T.S. Tong who hails from Sungai Petani.
Tong, a long-time resident of Subang Jaya, gave directions to Nanking coffee shop in USJ10/1D.
In short, this place is called Tai Pan. Based on his description of the area, it was not difficult to locate the outlet. As a matter of fact, I had eaten there before with my wife.
Now, to overcome the USJ10’s parking nightmare and the hungry lunch crowd, I suggest that you park as far away as possible from this place. Take a walk because the excercise could help to build an appetite.
Nanking coffee shop is situated in a corner lot. I found the asam laksa stall as described by Tong and ordered a small bowl from a middle aged man who manages the place.
Before I go any further, let me warn you that the hygiene level in this particular makan place is not at the highest. As a matter of fact, it was rather filthy.
But with my mission at hand, I went ahead with my order and when a Myanmar worker delivered my hot bowl of assam laksa, I was nothing but impressed.
Everything that I’d expected was served, but with one minor exception - I found Chinese lettuce as part of the garnishing. Strange, but nevertheless, it added the ‘green and fresh’ zing to it.
Now, the treat that made my day was a big spoonful of har kou (prawn paste). Some guys hate this and swear that it’s bad for their virility. But it didn’t bother me because prawn paste actually sweetens the sour and tangy gravy.
When I was a kid, I was told by a laksa Utara stall owner that he would go broke if I go on asking for more helping of the petis or prawn paste.
Back to the Nanking story - well, at RM4 a bowl, I’d say that the asam laksa is as good as Tong had described it. This means, I owe him a jug of beer for doubting his recommendations.
Now, before I conclude this food trail, let me say that it’s not difficult at all to locate Nanking coffee shop in USJ 10 and whenever in doubt, do a ‘Google Search’. Sorry, no maps, telephone numbers and address, so, happy hunting!
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